Javid posted:Anyone care to guess what wood these slabs I got for free are? Initial impression was cedar of some kind but I am a total rookie here. I have a couple planks of cedar that have quite similar grain is all. If it was that you'd know instantly by smelling a few plane shavings. I got a question about table saw rip fences. I got an old Craftsman 113 off CL for like $100 and got all the rust off it and buffed out / waxed the solid steel top. It's got the nice steel wings etc and I put new machined pulleys, a linkbelt and the PALS stuff on it along with a new blade and an MJ splitter and zero clearance insert. After all that it's cutting quite well and the motor has sufficient power. My eventual plan was to buy a Delta T3 fence system for it (~$220) but I've spent a ton on shop stuff during black friday and christmas sales, so I'm not gonna be able to get that for a while. In the meantime, the included fence is dogshit. I already knew the generic one itself was bad, but after going through all possible adjustments / cleanup etc with mine, I come to find out the side of the fence facing the blade itself is bent / flexes slightly, so even if the fence is set up square (difficult to even do), I'll get a slight curve away from the blade for any rips greater than 12". Looking online there's a couple different plans or people building their own fences out of ply and/or MDF. I have a bunch of materials and could do something like this. Has anyone itt made their own fence? It would likely only be something I used for a few months unless it came out really nice. I can't use the current fence at all and I don't want to stop using the saw for a long time until I can afford the other add-on fence. Any thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 15:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 03:17 |
|
|
Recommends for a small decent-to-good carpenter’s axe/hatchet? Multiple use cases but initially for hacking away live edge bark.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 15:32
|
|
|
Feenix posted:Recommends for a small decent-to-good carpenter’s axe/hatchet? Multiple use cases but initially for hacking away live edge bark. I have one of these and I like it enough: https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Sportsmans-Axe-Camping-Construction/dp/B00BNQR4SG However I recently picked up an old framing hatchet at an antique store for like $10 and like it more as I can grip closer to the head with the full wooden handle. For your stated use though, I've seen videos of people using drawknives to peel off live-edge bark with (somewhat) ease.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 16:08
|
|
|
Feenix posted:Recommends for a small decent-to-good carpenter’s axe/hatchet? Multiple use cases but initially for hacking away live edge bark. Are you going to use it to hit wedges at all? What other uses do you have in mind? Are you thinking essentially your sharp "hammer" good for anything
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 16:15
|
|
|
Javid posted:It's waaaaay too light to be walnut of that thickness. What shows up on my screen is walnut color, but if the actual color is lighter, the grain and knots look like some pine variety.....or cedar.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 16:50
|
|
|
Spring Heeled Jack posted:I have one of these and I like it enough: https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Sportsmans-Axe-Camping-Construction/dp/B00BNQR4SG I have that Estwing hatchet I bust it out for camping trips... wasn’t sure if it was suited to the task. Harry Potter on Ice posted:Are you going to use it to hit wedges at all? What other uses do you have in mind? Are you thinking essentially your sharp "hammer" good for anything Unlikely. I just initially tried using a hammer and chisel and it wasn’t as smooth an experience as had hoped... I saw a video of a guy using a carp axe and it looked like he was cruising through it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 16:57
|
|
|
Man, you could just halve each of those, finish them, slap some short hairpin legs on them, and sell them each for ... a lot. Around here, at least.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 16:59
|
|
|
Feenix posted:I have that Estwing hatchet I bust it out for camping trips... wasn’t sure if it was suited to the task. Should be good enough, but as I said my only complaint is that it doesn't really have a good shaft for gripping close to the head for finer control.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 18:23
|
|
|
Huxley posted:Man, you could just halve each of those, finish them, slap some short hairpin legs on them, and sell them each for ... a lot. Hah. Maybe the burnt looking one. The other one is gonna be the kitchen counter in my van.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 18:30
|
|
|
Javid posted:Hah. Maybe the burnt looking one. The other one is gonna be the kitchen counter in my van. Aren't you the guy who does fetish furniture? You could paint a bra and panties around the knots on each one.....or skip that and drill a hole.... just sayin'
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 19:04
|
|
|
That's me, but when we got these in, it was generally agreed they wouldn't really fit with our theme very well, which is why they were given to me for the van instead.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 19:07
|
|
|
Spring Heeled Jack posted:Should be good enough, but as I said my only complaint is that it doesn't really have a good shaft for gripping close to the head for finer control. Thanks I'll give it a shot.  Next question: Im about to line up my Ridgid router ( https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-11-Amp-2-HP-1-2-in-Corded-Fixed-Base-Router-R22002/202739521) to my new Kreg benchtop router table. The video says to make sure not to misalign in a way that the height adjustment crank (when routers have one) is affected. Mine doesn't have one. Is this an accessory that I can buy or is my router just not one that supports *that* feature.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 19:50
|
|
|
Feenix posted:Thanks I'll give it a shot. This is your height adjustment crank. Don't mount it with it facing the back for example. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 20:04
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:This is your height adjustment crank. Don't mount it with it facing the back for example. Oh yes, sorry maybe I misspoke. There are like, extended rod KEYS for some of them that you can adjust from above the table (through a hole). Wondering if my router supported one of those. [edit] probably easily google-able if I knew what they were called, lol
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 20:06
|
|
|
There might be a hole in your router base that would allow you stick an Allen wrench or whatever through it to adjust that from the top-make sure it’s to the front so the fence doesn’t cover it and drill a hole in the right spot through the router table top so you can get to it. It’s pretty easy to just adjust the router the normal way if you can’t get to it from the top though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 20:24
|
|
|
Feenix posted:Oh yes, sorry maybe I misspoke. There are like, extended rod KEYS for some of them that you can adjust from above the table (through a hole). Wondering if my router supported one of those. Looks like you will probably need a Router lift if you want to adjust with a key from the top. They are not cheap and if you are just starting out with the table just get a depth gauge and manually adjust it till you know you will get enough use out of the table to justify buying a lift...and inevitable new fence system. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 20:27
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:There might be a hole in your router base that would allow you stick an Allen wrench or whatever through it to adjust that from the top-make sure it’s to the front so the fence doesn’t cover it and drill a hole in the right spot through the router table top so you can get to it. It’s pretty easy to just adjust the router the normal way if you can’t get to it from the top though. Word and word (Thanks! (and to you Jeeves420!)) Honestly at present I think I'm more worried about fiddling with the bit replacement (and the wrench it uses). If feels like I have very limited range of motion as it is, In the little hole on the side to loosen and tighten the collet. Adding the need to finagle "under the table" to that makes me feel like it's gonna get worse.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 20:40
|
|
|
I always take the motor out of the base to change bits because it is a whole lot easier.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 20:44
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I always take the motor out of the base to change bits because it is a whole lot easier. Ah, ok. yeah I'd never done that but I can honestly see how that would be a good idea.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 20:46
|
|
|
Oh hey is this the adjustment doodad?  Actually the hole looks circular so how would it grab? I’ll leave space for it just in case though...
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 21:12
|
|
|
Yep, that’s it. Stick a long, appropriately sized, probably metric hex socket down through the hole. One might have come with your router but just as likely might not have.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 21:21
|
|
|
Ok I lined up my double sided taped and all was centered with the guide lines on the back of the plate. After drilling, I noticed maybe my drilling shifted the guide plate TOWARDS me (when it will work) about an 1/8th of an inch (if that). What kind of effect will this have, assuming the bits don't hit the inside red insert. Is it going to make every precision lineup when routing off? Or is it just whatever? Man I feel so smart! So the Kreg Router table comes with the fence and has like, adhesive metal measuring tape you need to measure the center point and apply. And there is about a foot of hangover you need to cleanly snip off. So I snip off the excess and then I say to myself... "hmmm... wouldn't one sometimes wonder how 'level' their fence was considering it free-slides from the back?" And then since I had 2 same excess pieces measuring 1 foot each, I stuck them to the side of the table surface, aligned with the back to use as a quick-reference for the fence when I adjust it. 
Feenix fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Jan 8, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 22:01
|
|
|
Somewhat woodworking related: I've been working hard on installing an Ikea kitchen in my house. In doing so I've saved the $3300 installation quote, but at what cost? (A sore back, some blood, and several weeks of microwave dinners and a bathtub for a sink.) Scribing the walnut-look filler panels to the wall for a 90" cabinet was a new a new and stressful thing for me, but the end result turned out pretty great.   With the upper cabinet doors installed:  In order to fit a 36" farmhouse sink, I had to notch out the 36" cabinet they sold me. I figured exposed particle board probably wasn't great to have in a location that could potentially get wet so I ironed on some melamine edge banding before fastening some more walnut filler panels that will frame the dishwasher stall.     The countertop company is coming out to do templating later this week and I can't wait to have a functioning sink and kitchen, again. I've also still got a lot of trim work to do, under cabinet light installation, etc. I'm hiring out the tile backsplash, so hopefully that turns out well.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2019 06:53
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:Somewhat woodworking related: I've been working hard on installing an Ikea kitchen in my house. In doing so I've saved the $3300 installation quote, but at what cost? (A sore back, some blood, and several weeks of microwave dinners and a bathtub for a sink.) Sorry to be a Negative Nancy, but that's the worst place to put the fridge. It's going to kill that corner, top and bottom. Ideally you'd have wanted to have it all the way over, or even at the other end and recessed in 6" to match the counters. Also, you typically want headroom (and a light) over the sink because you or your missus is always going to be leaning in to that area. -I hope I'm just seeing this wrong..... edit- ok, the sink is off to the left so never mind that critique
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2019 19:11
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:Sorry to be a Negative Nancy, but that's the worst place to put the fridge. It's going to kill that corner, top and bottom. Ideally you'd have wanted to have it all the way over, or even at the other end and recessed in 6" to match the counters. Also, you typically want headroom (and a light) over the sink because you or your missus is always going to be leaning in to that area. I had to work with the space I'm given. The fridge used to be on a separate wall that I knocked down to a pony wall/island. There was really no other place to put it. It does stick out a little bit but the corner to the left of the fridge is still accessible, although that doesn't photograph well. I know a cabinet depth fridge would fit more nicely, but I bought this fridge 3-4 years ago when I moved in, and I'm really not a fan of the $1000 premium for less storage capacity. Maybe one day I'll replace the fridge but there's no practical reason to do it right now. As for lighting over the sink, I get that, and installing an additional can light is really easy to do. I may do that once everything is in place and I have a better idea of the space.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2019 20:33
|
|
|
Every little thing I make or do I learn something about glueing or clamping or planing or grain direction or measuring. And that's just three relatively square pieces to fill a nook and make a tiny shelf.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2019 00:13
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:I had to work with the space I'm given. The fridge used to be on a separate wall that I knocked down to a pony wall/island. There was really no other place to put it. As long as the boss is ok with it, our opinions here don't matter worth squat.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2019 00:17
|
|
|
Can't you at least move the right and top cabinets out flush? It doesn't look like there's a door or anything there you'd be blocking.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2019 00:24
|
|
|
Well, for one they're already screwed and seated all together, so no. But also, no because the way all of the Ikea cabinets fasten to the rail system the upper left cabinet's right edge must line up vertically with the bottom corner cabinet, and the bottom corner cabinet is fastened to both walls so it can't move in any direction. Then the filler panels that frame the fridge fasten to both upper and lower. In addition the pantry door needs to have some space to the right to swing out past 90 degrees to allow the drawers to pull out. Yada yada yada, Ikea makes certain things difficult.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2019 02:57
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:Well, for one they're already screwed and seated all together, so no. But also, no because the way all of the Ikea cabinets fasten to the rail system the upper left cabinet's right edge must line up vertically with the bottom corner cabinet, and the bottom corner cabinet is fastened to both walls so it can't move in any direction. Then the filler panels that frame the fridge fasten to both upper and lower. Will you post that backsplash when its finished? I know its the woodworking thread but if you're still around when they complete it I wouldn't mind checking it out
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2019 04:51
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:Will you post that backsplash when its finished? I know its the woodworking thread but if you're still around when they complete it I wouldn't mind checking it out I decided on going with this tile, below. I'll share some photos when it's all done. I'm getting real tired of microwave dinners. Emser Craft White 
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2019 07:41
|
|
|
I have a terrible glass top at my place and I'm planning on picking up either an electric burner or a butane burner for stuff that requires temperature reliable maintenance (versus wildly jumping between 180F and 240F on 1.5 on the dial), they're $40-50.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2019 08:05
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:Somewhat woodworking related: I've been working hard on installing an Ikea kitchen in my house. In doing so I've saved the $3300 installation quote, but at what cost? (A sore back, some blood, and several weeks of microwave dinners and a bathtub for a sink.) Where will the stove go? I don't see any ducting for an exhaust hood. Is it outside the picture?
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2019 14:22
|
|
|
Hippie Hedgehog posted:Where will the stove go? I don't see any ducting for an exhaust hood. Is it outside the picture? The range is opposite of the fridge. The original builder didn't have a range hood. I've got one on order and I'll be cutting a hole in the roof pretty soon. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2019 14:50
|
|
|
Anyone ever make their own tablesaw fence? Any thoughts / advice? I'm going to buy a nicer one eventually for my old Craftsman saw, but might like to use something better than "clamp down some angle iron" in the meantime. The fence that came with the saw flexes along the middle / is seemingly bent so cannot make straight cuts no matter how well positioned.
|
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2019 15:05
|
|
|
So I want to build a cabinet/shelf for my new (vintage) audio system/Hi-Fi. Anything I should keep in mind with regards to cooling and proper airflow? I got a vintage Technics amp from the 70's with passive cooling and a vent on top; how much clearance should I leave above it to properly cool?
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2019 15:44
|
|
|
Super Waffle posted:So I want to build a cabinet/shelf for my new (vintage) audio system/Hi-Fi. Anything I should keep in mind with regards to cooling and proper airflow? I got a vintage Technics amp from the 70's with passive cooling and a vent on top; how much clearance should I leave above it to properly cool? You're probably better asking in a hifi thread, but what kind of amp it actually is will make a huge difference. I had a friend years ago who had Russian tube amps for his as expensive as a nice car speakers and they could heat half of his basement apartment when they were on. I'm guessing yours won't get as hot, but you can always put vents in the back to keep airflow happening and a couple inches above it should be okay. But I could be wrong because I don't know what amp you have or how hot it gets. Try turning it on for a while and then using an infrared thermometer to take it's temp. That should give you a better idea of what you'll need for airflow.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2019 15:54
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:The range is opposite of the fridge. The original builder didn't have a range hood. I've got one on order and I'll be cutting a hole in the roof pretty soon. You can get a filtered vent hood and skip cutting holes if you don't typically create a ton of smoke (i.e. if you're not a proto-goon who lives on bacon) Cutting holes in a roof and whatever is between can be a bad business. Super Waffle posted:So I want to build a cabinet/shelf for my new (vintage) audio system/Hi-Fi. Anything I should keep in mind with regards to cooling and proper airflow? I got a vintage Technics amp from the 70's with passive cooling and a vent on top; how much clearance should I leave above it to properly cool? Couple inches, typically. If it's in an enclosed cabinet, that can be an issue.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2019 16:09
|
|
|
That Works posted:Anyone ever make their own tablesaw fence? Any thoughts / advice? Guy in Dallas named Biesmeyer made mine. No really, it's a prototype before he went large. 1 steel angle iron front whatever and a locking fence. The work it takes to do that, go ahead and buy one which you can hopefully migrate to a better saw in time.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2019 16:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 03:17 |
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:You can get a filtered vent hood and skip cutting holes if you don't typically create a ton of smoke (i.e. if you're not a proto-goon who lives on bacon) Cutting holes in a roof and whatever is between can be a bad business. Look at this guy who has never seared a steak. The PO of my home didn't have either bathroom exhaust fans venting out of the house. Both were just exhausting into the attic. One bathroom had a roof vent running to but never connected, and the other had nothing at all. Installing the vent was mostly painless although it it was initially daunting. The range hood vent will be 6" instead of 4", so I will need to buy a new hole saw probably, but sealing it shouldn't be too challenging.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2019 16:15
|
|