|
I did a Panasonic retrofit fan. It wasn’t hard. I got the auto-sensing kind, which is cool. If you add a second hole, why not leave the old fan in place as a cover?
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2019 04:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 16:19 |
|
|
eddiewalker posted:I did a Panasonic retrofit fan. It wasn’t hard. I got the auto-sensing kind, which is cool. Among the many flaws the current fan has is the fact that it's drafty as gently caress. There's a cover that's supposed to prevent airflow when the fan isn't in use, but it's some flimsy piece of crap and doesn't work. Also it's ugly. Facebook Aunt posted:Wouldn't have to be an obvious patch. You could put a tiny stained glass window in there. Then people wouldn't go "what an ugly patch" they'd go "why the heck is there a tiny window up there?" I did think of adding a window, albeit not a stained-glass window. Tiling the "sill" for a round hole sounds like a pain in the rear end though. I guess the window could be flat with the current tile, putting the sill on the outside portion, but then I'd need to work out a drainage solution, or stick a second window on the outside I guess.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2019 04:26
|
|
|
Cement a mailbox into the hole and then fill it with expanding foam.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2019 05:23
|
|
|
Get a porthole from a boat that would fit.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2019 12:58
|
|
|
Chamberlain garage door opener. Unit is older 3/4 hp drive. Noticed the garage door opener lights weren’t coming on when the garage door was activated. Not sure if they were ever working. Trying to isolate the issue. 1) replaced both bulbs. No light. Tried incandescent and LED, no luck on either. 2) can hear the relay click when I press the light button as well as when I plug in the opener. This seems to rule out the logic board and point to the sockets. 3) replaced both light bulb sockets. Incandescent bulb does not work. LED bulb does light up but it is very, very dim. We’re talking firefly bug dim. What next? Replace the board or the entire unit if it’s more cost effective?
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2019 14:25
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:I tried to install a TV mount for a friend, but my plan of big screws into the studs was thwarted by the fact that there don't appear to be any where I need them. Between feeling along the wall, knocking, drilling a line of holes every half inch for 24 inches and punching through every time, and finally pushing on the wall and seeing where it didn't give, I'm pretty sure it's lath and plaster with just one stud in the center of the wall. My current plan is to use 6 toggle bolts to mount a piece of plywood to the wall, then wood screws to attach the mount to the plywood. My concern here is that it's a full motion mount with a 39" TV, and I'm not sure that would be enough to hold it. Any suggestions? If you have a stud in the center, attach your plywood there using lag bolts, with toggles on the outside. But honestly 39" is light and toggles all around would probably be fine.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2019 16:26
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:If you have a stud in the center, attach your plywood there using lag bolts, with toggles on the outside. But honestly 39" is light and toggles all around would probably be fine. Center is several feet to the left of where the TV is going.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2019 22:15
|
|
|
So, no good solutions for my bathroom exhaust fan problem? Assuming the joists run in the correct direction, how feasible would it be to cut a hole in the side of the wall in between two joists, slide some ducting in, and connect it to a ceiling fan? Obviously I'd also have to cut open the ceiling, and figure out a way to get power from the switch to the fan; my hope would be to re-use the wires that currently run to the in-wall fan. Still no good idea what I'd do with the current hole in the wall though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2019 22:51
|
|
|
I don't know if this qualifies as good, but you could cover it with this:
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 09:53
|
|
|
Does taxidermy do OK in a high humidity environment? Alternatively: https://youtu.be/AkFs3YzxN_E?t=1m7s
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 16:29
|
|
|
I posted once and got a bunch of joke answers, so I posted again in the same place. I don't know what I expected.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 17:07
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:So, no good solutions for my bathroom exhaust fan problem? if you are going to go through all that trouble, why not just put in a standard ceiling exhaust. Or are you trying to re-use just the interior hole and grille and by "ceiling fan" you mean "duct-inline" fan?
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 19:07
|
|
|
Qwijib0 posted:if you are going to go through all that trouble, why not just put in a standard ceiling exhaust. Or are you trying to re-use just the interior hole and grille and by "ceiling fan" you mean "duct-inline" fan? No, if I were going to go to the trouble of running ducting, it'd be bypassing the hole and using a new one instead. That'd let me use a standard ceiling fan but would leave me with a redundant hole in the wall that needs to be patched or filling with something.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 19:32
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:No, if I were going to go to the trouble of running ducting, it'd be bypassing the hole and using a new one instead. That'd let me use a standard ceiling fan but would leave me with a redundant hole in the wall that needs to be patched or filling with something.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 20:44
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:This feels like overkill, but I honestly can't think of a better situation - Could you put in a false soffit that would cover that hole and not look totally out of place and stupid? Patching the exterior ought to be reasonably straightforward, it's stucco and I have extra paint. It's the tile on the inside that has me stumped.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 21:23
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Patching the exterior ought to be reasonably straightforward, it's stucco and I have extra paint. It's the tile on the inside that has me stumped. A single giant googley eye.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 21:40
|
|
|
Serious suggestion: after filling the void left behind by the now empty duct, cover the new insulation with a piece of black painted pressure treated wood, and put the fan cover back on.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 23:34
|
|
|
That...could actually work OK. A vent to nowhere, so to speak. Thanks for the suggestion!
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 23:50
|
|
|
My heat pump is making uncomfortable sounds - I'm overly nervous about it because we're supposed to get 5-8" of snow starting tomorrow night. Earlier this evening I could hear what's almost a rattling somewhere in the outside unit, but that stopped. Now a few minutes ago I heard a sound at the back of the unit, it's like something's trying to start and can't, over and over. That was ten minutes ago; I just went outside and it's quiet now, the unit isn't running (temp inside is 69, thermostat temp). Update: heat pump just kicked on and it's doing it again. Starts ...stops. Starts ...stops. Has it always done this and I've never noticed? It's currently 28 outside, gonna fall to about 24, and I know I'm at that point where it just can't pull heat from the air very well. Is all the clanging and clicking and humming just a result of the lovely cold, or do I have a problem? At no point has the temp in the house dipped below where it should; there's warm air coming out of the vents. https://youtu.be/W0r3U8T1RLw https://youtu.be/9v37NqEOk9E
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2019 05:09
|
|
|
Sounds like the compressor is FUBAR :/
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2019 05:12
|
|
|
jackpot posted:My heat pump is making uncomfortable sounds - I'm overly nervous about it because we're supposed to get 5-8" of snow starting tomorrow night. Earlier this evening I could hear what's almost a rattling somewhere in the outside unit, but that stopped. Now a few minutes ago I heard a sound at the back of the unit, it's like something's trying to start and can't, over and over. That was ten minutes ago; I just went outside and it's quiet now, the unit isn't running (temp inside is 69, thermostat temp). Update: heat pump just kicked on and it's doing it again. Starts ...stops. Starts ...stops. Has it always done this and I've never noticed? Most air source heatpumps I've heard (my own included) do go through a defrost cycle, sometimes quite frequently depending on temp. that can always be alarming to someone who doesn't know about it. But I've never heard them shut off entirely like that before. Possibly its tripping some kind of thermal cutoff? I also once had the reversing valve short out on mine and it was randomly switching back out of heating mode while running. Made a hell of a racket! I thought the outside unit was going to jump off its mount! Until you can get it repaired or looked at, most heatpump systems have a way to put the system into AUX heat only mode (it is sometimes called Emergency heat). This makes the system only run the auxiliary heating and leave the outside unit shut off. I would recommend doing that; this will give you heat, but keep the outdoor unit powered down. If your AUX heat though is electric as well, its gonna cost ya. (think large space heater!) Take a look at your tstat and see if you see anything mentioning "Emer. Heat", or "Aux Only", etc... On my Honeywell digital tstat, it is called "Emer Heat" and appears as you cycle through the modes on the tstat (Heat/AC/EmerHeat/FanOnly) When mine had the broken reversing valve I forced it into aux/emergency heat only mode just in case it might cause damage to the compressor. The HVAC tech said that was definitely a sound idea. stevewm fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Jan 12, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2019 05:37
|
|
|
Yeah I'm sufficiently spooked by it that I've turned on emergency heat. It was already running on aux heat when I went to check, but it's still trying to kick on outside over and over and that can't be good.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2019 05:52
|
|
|
jackpot posted:Yeah I'm sufficiently spooked by it that I've turned on emergency heat. It was already running on aux heat when I went to check, but it's still trying to kick on outside over and over and that can't be good. Your outside unit should be on its own breaker or have a cutoff outside near it. I would flip the breaker or the cutoff and power it down. Edit: I'm in the path of that storm too (Southeast Indiana, near Cincinnati). It's just starting to snow here 
stevewm fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Jan 12, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2019 06:03
|
|
|
Nevets posted:Serious suggestion: after filling the void left behind by the now empty duct, cover the new insulation with a piece of black painted pressure treated wood, and put the fan cover back on. This but put the giant googly eyes behind the vents. Tell people it's an earthquake detector.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2019 13:37
|
|
|
jackpot posted:Yeah I'm sufficiently spooked by it that I've turned on emergency heat. It was already running on aux heat when I went to check, but it's still trying to kick on outside over and over and that can't be good. You seem to be describing short-cycling on your heat pump. Loss of refrigerant is typically the cause. But to be sure, check all your air filters and have you recently changed out a thermostat?
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2019 19:08
|
|
|
Need some help with subflooring. I am planning on replacing this lovely sheet vinyl flooring in my bathroom with porcelain tile. When I ripped up the vinyl, I saw some subflooring that I am not too familiar with. Its approximately 1/4" in thickness, situated over top of what appears to be 3/4" OSB. Its smooth surfaced, but the core is kind of jagged and frayed like OSB. This house was built in 2006. Can anyone ID what this is? If so, would it be suitable for tile subflooring, or should it not be used? I have 1/4" hardiebacker that I am going to thinset and screw to the subfloor prior to tiling. Some pics:  
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2019 00:52
|
|
|
Kanish posted:Need some help with subflooring. Looks like Lauan/Luan.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2019 00:59
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:Looks like Lauan/Luan. That certainly looks like what it is. Looks like thats coming out before I lay the cement board.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2019 01:05
|
|
|
It's luan underlayment; It's used as a sacrificial layer to protect the actual subfloor. Yes, rip it up & put something similar down, because thinsetting tile straight to the subfloor gets you a ringside seat in the ninth ring of hell.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2019 05:30
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:put something similar down, ....or totally not similar and way better, like Ditra or some other brand of uncoupling layer.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2019 15:58
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:It's luan underlayment; It's used as a sacrificial layer to protect the actual subfloor. Well I have 1/4 inch concrete backer board and I wasnt sure if I can put it on top of the luan, but it looks like the answer is no.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2019 18:04
|
|
|
Kanish posted:Well I have 1/4 inch concrete backer board and I wasnt sure if I can put it on top of the luan, but it looks like the answer is no. It it's intact, sure, you can put backer board down over it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2019 18:59
|
|
|
I’ve got space for a 2 gang box. I want one side to be a normal electrical box for an AC outlet, and the other side to be a low-voltage brush plate with no rear panel so I can fit a bunch of cables through. Does that exist? I can’t find anything other than standalone 1 gang low-voltage brackets that can’t really fit next to a 1 gang electrical box.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2019 01:56
|
|
|
I needed some shelves to store some extra kitchen equipment and came across some ideas for floating shelves that are supposed to be pretty sturdy, and it seemed easy enough so I made some this weekend. My main worry was making sure they were secure enough into the wall to hold the weight of what I wanted to put on them, which are a couple heavy dutch ovens and some other random kitchen supplies. Luckily I had two available studs for a 42 inch long shelf. I used two 3 inch screws at each location (2 spots) on both shelves. Additionally I have 3 100lb rated cobra drywall anchors for each shelf. So I'm pretty confident that the shelf is well secured to the wall. Here's where I ran into trouble. I didn't want 4-5 inch thick shelves, and the only good plywood available for the outer shelf was 3/4 inch, so I used smaller inner frame material (1x2s). Attached is a picture of the frame and the finished shelves. The frame cleats aren't spaced completely evenly so I could leave access to be able to screw in the studs and anchors. They are attached from the back with 2 screws each and glue. I just thought that the weight should be distributed well enough across them to still be sturdy (most videos I saw used a similar spacing, and while some used 2x4s for the frame some also used 2x2 so I thought it would work). Well after I slid the outer shells onto the frames, they definitely give with moderate pressure. I wouldn't feel confident putting anything heavy on them. I'm trying to figure out if I can sturdy this up somehow and keep it looking as is. Worse case scenario I could probably add some shelf brackets under each shelf but would like to try and make this work. I dread trying to take the whole frame off the wall cause I think a couple of the stud screws may have started to strip as soon as I got them in (was hoping to just wait and deal with getting it off in the future if I move, even if I had to tear the whole thing apart). So if I add any cleats I will have to just screw at an angle into the back strip or pocket hole them. I was also thinking I could cut 45 degree bracing in as many spots as I could fit it to go from the main back support to the back 1/3 or middle of the cleats. I don't have a very good mind for structural engineering and don't really know what would work or be a futile attempt. Any help or advice to salvage this would be appreciated. They don't look the best because my main concern was utilitarian, I need them to hold some heavy crap and if I can't make it work then I'm gonna feel like a dummy.  
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2019 01:57
|
|
|
epalm posted:I’ve got space for a 2 gang box. I want one side to be a normal electrical box for an AC outlet, and the other side to be a low-voltage brush plate with no rear panel so I can fit a bunch of cables through. Does that exist? I can’t find anything other than standalone 1 gang low-voltage brackets that can’t really fit next to a 1 gang electrical box. 2 gang dual voltage combo box. Carlon makes one.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2019 02:06
|
|
|
epalm posted:I’ve got space for a 2 gang box. I want one side to be a normal electrical box for an AC outlet, and the other side to be a low-voltage brush plate with no rear panel so I can fit a bunch of cables through. Does that exist? I can’t find anything other than standalone 1 gang low-voltage brackets that can’t really fit next to a 1 gang electrical box. like this? https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12589
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2019 02:17
|
|
|
nosleep posted:Any help or advice to salvage this would be appreciated. They don't look the best because my main concern was utilitarian, I need them to hold some heavy crap and if I can't make it work then I'm gonna feel like a dummy. Your main problem here is that pine is very soft, and those screws are going to move around, especially when screwed into end grain. You might be able to strengthen what you've already got by attaching some metal shelf brackets horizontally between the cleat and supports, but I still don't think it will be enough to hold the weight you want to put on it. You may want to try it though, and if it still moves around too much you can always abandon the floating shelf look and re-use the brackets to secure your shelves directly to the studs.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2019 04:38
|
|
|
nosleep posted:I needed some shelves to store some extra kitchen equipment and came across some ideas for floating shelves that are supposed to be pretty sturdy, and it seemed easy enough so I made some this weekend. My main worry was making sure they were secure enough into the wall to hold the weight of what I wanted to put on them, which are a couple heavy dutch ovens and some other random kitchen supplies. Luckily I had two available studs for a 42 inch long shelf. I used two 3 inch screws at each location (2 spots) on both shelves. Additionally I have 3 100lb rated cobra drywall anchors for each shelf. So I'm pretty confident that the shelf is well secured to the wall. I have a very similar setup in my kitchen (pine 2x2 framework screwed into 2x6 blocking within the stud bays). I’d say your shelves are good for maybe 30lbs each with that setup and the weakest part will be the framing. I have a stack of 16 plates and bowls on one shelf and it’s started to sag a bit over the past 2 years. I suspect it’s the pine frame bending as the blocking was really secure. Some day I’ll take them down and replace the brackets. Maybe with dimensional lumber or steel pipe or a combo. Haven’t really thought that out entirely. I do know that some companies make steel brackets that screw into the wall for this purpose though I don’t have any brands to look up. I’m sure Amazon sells them. It’s probably worth exploring.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2019 05:03
|
|
|
Couldn't they add a thin steel cable from the front of the shelves back to the wall under the shelf above? Kinda like this when viewed from the side? code:
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2019 05:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 16:19 |
|
|
Might as well use a normal shelf bracket then. Those screws into end grain pine brackets look weak, I wouldn't trust them at all. Either shell out for the steel floating shelf brackets or abandon that look, honestly
cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Jan 15, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2019 08:12
|
|