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Motronic posted:You're stringing in pertinent information as you go along. I know but if I actually managed to include everything in my OP it would have been twice as long, plus it woulda been a miracle because I was real drunk. quote:In this case the deflection is measured from below. With a jack of some sort? Is there a potential issue with the drywall being compressed? I got a car jack and a 2x4 and a laser thingy. Basically the whole house is an area of concern but probably the biggest area of concern is 100% under tile, are some of the longest trusses, and are also the only cantilevered trusses. quote:And whatever you have going on where you think you need to tear up drywall is either wrong, or yet more information you've left out. If I tear out about a thousand square feet of drywall I'll absolutely know for sure, because I'll be able to see the little buggers with my own eyes. How tough is it going to be to get a contractor to give this a real look, assuming any one that's smart enough to figure it out is probably also smart enough to realize that he's probably not gonna be getting any real work any time soon (figuring it'll either get fixed by the builder or won't get fixed until after a protracted lawsuit)? I'm having visions of when my friend tried to get someone to replace ~50 square feet of sheetrock and if he mentioned how much it was in the message he left they never called back and if he didn't they'd call him back and then as soon as he explained it they'd tell him they weren't interested. bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Jan 4, 2019 |
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Jan 4, 2019 04:21
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QuarkJets posted:I'm getting a strong "I'll just chop off the top of these I-beams so that my bathtub can be a little lower, no need to ask a professional" vibe from these posts That dude's I-beams were fine, he walked on em after he cut them and they didn't even creak or nothin.
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Jan 4, 2019 04:26
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Seriously, you just need to cut into those I beams and sink your tub. It will stiffen up the cabinets.
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Jan 4, 2019 04:28
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I could probably cut the top chords and recess the two kitchen islands. That might fix it. Then I'm tearing up tile instead of drywall though and I'm not sure that's preferable.
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Jan 4, 2019 04:40
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bird with big dick posted:I'm having visions of when my friend tried to get someone to replace ~50 square feet of sheetrock and if he mentioned how much it was in the message he left they never called back and if he didn't they'd call him back and then as soon as he explained it they'd tell him they weren't interested. I had trouble enough getting fricken electricians to reply to a "whole home rewire" request which should be some of the better work for residential. Strangely the local cannot-tell-it's-been-patched company had no qualms doing my less than a sheet and light texture job with an email of just a couple pictures including one measuring the depth of the existing drywall. Minimum job charge (something like $350) applied, but I had used them before and literally live like a mile from their office.
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Jan 4, 2019 04:54
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I don't know much about sheet rock or texturing but he wanted to get someone real good and was willing to pay an excessive amount for the job in order to not be able to see the patch, ended up getting it done by a handyman type and you can definitely see the patch. My first house had some of the shittiest drywall work you've ever seen (Alaska, 1978) so when I patched some holes and actually did a moderately competent job at a knock down texture it ended up looking better than the original. So you could still see the patch.
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Jan 4, 2019 05:28
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And here where I'm, I can't get anybody to call me back about a bathroom addition in an existing space with fully exposed plumbing in the basement, but adding a water softener? Next day job no problem.
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Jan 4, 2019 14:02
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They’re at my house fixing the one exposed truss that I could prove was wrong (wife is there, I’m at work). I told her not to sign anything because I’m worried it’ll include “we fixed the only floor truss that is messed up and all the other ones are definitely fine” somewhere on it, and I’m even wary of anything that has the word fixed or repaired on it even if it just specifies the one truss, just because we don’t really know for sure that the fix is adequate because we’re not structural engineers.
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Jan 4, 2019 18:05
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Here's to 15 years of warranty (I hope)! E: Nope, turns out it was the heater that shat itself. No warranty left on that one. 
Potrzebie fucked around with this message at 09:05 on Jan 5, 2019 |
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Jan 4, 2019 21:25
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bird with big dick posted:They’re at my house fixing the one exposed truss that I could prove was wrong (wife is there, I’m at work). If you're concerned about paperwork then you should get a lawyer to look things over.
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Jan 5, 2019 00:36
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It ended up being okay. There was a paper they wanted signed but the last paragraph in it was something like "signing this doesn't not eliminate the builders future liability for any problems including a recurring issue with whatever this one was" or some poo poo like that. The repair looks good. I don't think these guys are crooked I just think they're kind of stupid and kind of cheap asses.
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Jan 5, 2019 03:17
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I mean, they're real estate developers, so they're definitely crooked, I just mean not any more than usual.
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Jan 5, 2019 04:00
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 There's the repair. Inside there (supposedly) is an additional vertical 2x4. They did this at each of the three similar parts of the truss, this truss is only about 10 or 12' long I think.
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Jan 5, 2019 04:04
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When the PO pulled out their full 1st floor carpeting and restored the original floors, they didn't bother to re-position the trim so I have a 1/2 gap around my entire floors perimeter which looks to be inviting air in. Is the sanest solution to cut down square trim to 1/2 on my table saw and fill in the perimeter then caulk it? I don't think re-positioning the existing trim is an option as there is a lot of wainscoting in the affected areas.
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Jan 7, 2019 18:50
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I’d be shocked if it was a consistent gap, I would hate to scribe an entire house and still have two pieces. I would replace the entire bottom section of trim if I was going that so it would be one piece of wood, or add a shoe to it that decoratively overlaps.
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Jan 7, 2019 18:52
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I had a similar issue in two bedrooms after I removed the carpet and had the hardwood restored. I just put in a 1.5" bull nose trim that covers the gap and matched the existing baseboard trim. You could also use quarter round depending on how big the gap is at its biggest point.
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Jan 7, 2019 19:02
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Those sound saner, thanks
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Jan 7, 2019 19:06
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poo poo POST MALONE posted:I had a similar issue in two bedrooms after I removed the carpet and had the hardwood restored. I just put in a 1.5" bull nose trim that covers the gap and matched the existing baseboard trim. You could also use quarter round depending on how big the gap is at its biggest point. Yes, did the exact same thing a year ago. Just get some 1/4 round or bull nose that's tall enough to cover your largest gap.
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Jan 7, 2019 20:28
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Potrzebie posted:
Turns out it was just a circulation pump that broke. I've never been so glad to pay for repairs.
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Jan 10, 2019 18:44
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Dryer does everything but heat. Just put shelving around it 2 months ago so it's a pain to access. Nice.
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Jan 10, 2019 18:56
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Finally got some time to organize the new garage a little bit. I still have a long way to go but it was satisfying to set up this corner at least.
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Jan 12, 2019 23:39
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I'm getting the keys to my first house in 2 days. My first concern I need to address soon is I need a new fridge, any advice? The current (non economical to repair) fridge I believe is a Samsung French door with ice and water. Everything I've read is the less drawers the better and less parts and bells and whistles, I won't know exactly how wide it is until this Monday but it would look weird if we didn't fill the space most of the way. There is Sears scratch and dent nearby going out of business and we are Costco members also there are a few good appliance places that may stand behind their product, give me brand advice or whatever please.
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Jan 13, 2019 00:42
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We just bought a new Samsung fridge last labor day and we love it. The one we have has drawers that can slide in or flip up, so the space is easily adaptable to tall things when you need it. The Samsung fridges also all got high ratings for temperature consistency, which reduces freezer burn. Don't get a smart fridge or a fridge with a screen, it's an expensive gimmick. Side-by-side fridges are cheaper than French doors but almost universally will fall apart earlier than a nice freezer-top or French door fridge. Ice and water in the door are nice conveniences but if you don't care about them then you can save a bunch of money (ignore anyone who says that they pay for themselves because of not having to open the door for a water pitcher, that's misinformation). Freezer-top are cheapest and most energy efficient but least trendy. Measure the space that your current fridge is in and then shop based on that. Some fridges advertise this little mini-door feature that lets you access a shelf of stuff without opening the whole door, this sounds like an expensive gimmick to me but some people like it
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Jan 13, 2019 01:15
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Just to be clear, the current fridge is broken? Sucks to buy an appliance on short notice, if you’ve got time you can watch and trend and usually save a few hundred dollars. Since you’re just moving in, buy one that you really like! You’ll have it the whole time you live there. My last purchase was a bottom drawer that I thought I’d love but didn’t have a ton of freezer space, current house has a side by side that I do like a lot. I didn’t realize how often I would use ice and water in a door mount.
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Jan 13, 2019 02:09
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Apparently I'm not able to use anything more than the cheapest fiberglass furnace filters in my brand new Bryant HE furnace... Because my builder's HVAC guys used a 16x20x1 filter when the manual for the furnace recommends a minimum of a 2" thick pleated filter for minimum pressure drop. Using even a merv5 Nordic Pure chokes enough air flow that trips some sort of thermal limit switch and shuts the furnace down for a minute or two. Swapping back to the lovely fiberglass filter has been problem-free for going on 48 hours now. Maybe I can bitch enough to get them to correct it.
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Jan 14, 2019 15:17
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PitViper posted:Apparently I'm not able to use anything more than the cheapest fiberglass furnace filters in my brand new Bryant HE furnace... Because my builder's HVAC guys used a 16x20x1 filter when the manual for the furnace recommends a minimum of a 2" thick pleated filter for minimum pressure drop. So was the new furnace installed in an old HVAC system, or is everything new? I mean, I'm not an HVAC expert but assuming everything is new then this seems like a huge miss. If the furnace has a specific recommendation for a filter, and the HVAC contractor ignored it, I'd say that's clearly warranty work and they need to fix it at their cost. Who knows what else they may have screwed up... could be as simple as the engineer specified 16x20x2 but the installers only had 16x20x1 housing on the truck. But if they designed everything for the wrong air flow then the ducting could be all hosed up too. Also I'm assuming they "design" HVAC for residential... for all I know they just throw in whatever ducting is on the truck and hope it works.
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Jan 14, 2019 17:33
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This is a new construction home. The manuals for the furnace don't flat out require any particular filter, so I'm sure it's just poor system design. This is the same builder that was running 2+ months behind on their in-house grading/landscaping crews, which is why it's January and I live in the middle of a quarter acre of dirt, along with my two neighbors. Which is to say yes, I'm just going to call up the warranty person at the builder and tell them my furnace keeps short-cycling during heating, and I'd like it fixed.
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Jan 14, 2019 19:20
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PitViper posted:This is a new construction home. The manuals for the furnace don't flat out require any particular filter, so I'm sure it's just poor system design. This is the same builder that was running 2+ months behind on their in-house grading/landscaping crews, which is why it's January and I live in the middle of a quarter acre of dirt, along with my two neighbors. Did you get a set of plans with your house? If so, look through to the HVAC stuff and see what they specified. Putting in literally the cheapest and praying it all works out longer than it takes them to go out of business is pretty much new construction 101.
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Jan 14, 2019 19:24
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PitViper posted:Apparently I'm not able to use anything more than the cheapest fiberglass furnace filters in my brand new Bryant HE furnace... Because my builder's HVAC guys used a 16x20x1 filter when the manual for the furnace recommends a minimum of a 2" thick pleated filter for minimum pressure drop. Your best outcome would be to make them install a box for a 5 inch media filter on the furnace at the input, if there is room. Also, depending on where your filter sits you might be able to just modify something to make a wider one fit in there. If a brand new Merv 5 filter causes it to break I think you have bigger problems though, and you might need to increase the size/number of air returns into your system. Also make sure all your output vents are open - sometimes people close lots of vents and that screws it all up too.
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Jan 14, 2019 19:26
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I'm not an HVAC guy, but I would think a new construction home would have a properly matched AHRI system to get the labeled efficiency values. My old house would only use the cheap ones, but I never tried to get the fan speed increased to compensate. It had a 1" 18x20 filter. In an old apartment I tried a fancy filter, and it was so restrictive it was sucking air up the draintube and gushed water everywhere. My new place uses Aprilaire 210 filters, which are awesome, but stupid expensive.
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Jan 14, 2019 19:46
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Is this the thread to ask HVAC related questions? How much sense does it make to buy only 1 Nest thermometer? My first floor unit would work, but my second and third floor are split in to two zones that might mean I need to retrofit my second HVAC unit. Is this something that's worth it?
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Jan 14, 2019 20:08
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PitViper posted:Using even a merv5 Nordic Pure I don't think Nordic Pure makes a Merv 5 filter - are you sure that's what you have? Maybe it is a higher rating than you think.
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Jan 14, 2019 20:16
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Residency Evil posted:Is this the thread to ask HVAC related questions? I have an ecobee with 3 remote sensors, but the only routines I use are switching it to only reading the bedroom thermometer at night and the main unit thermometer during daytime. 2 of my sensors for living room and basement are really just for fun. I don't know anything about owning more than one HVAC unit, though.
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Jan 14, 2019 20:28
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There's an HVAC thread in DIY https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3761260 Are floors 2 and 3 actually zoned, like active dampers and sensors on each floor, or is it just 1 HVAC system servicing 2 floors? What are you looking for from the Nest? Personally I'm not a huge fan of swinging temperatures in houses, I find it as efficient to just keep the same temp all the time, maybe drop the heat a bit at night. I live in South Central Texas though, so our cooling needs are nuts during the summer. You can't keep the AC at 78 all day and then expect it to get to 72 when you get home here, at least not while the sun is up anyway. I did buy ecobees though, it helps balance the temps across the house and the scheduling is nice.
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Jan 14, 2019 20:40
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skipdogg posted:There's an HVAC thread in DIY Yeah, floors 2/3 have a damper system for individual routing as needed. I'll check the thread out: thanks!
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Jan 14, 2019 21:37
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Droo posted:I don't think Nordic Pure makes a Merv 5 filter - are you sure that's what you have? Maybe it is a higher rating than you think. You are correct! It's a MERV 7. Same ones we used at our early 2000 vintage townhome with the original furnace without issue. Thus why I ordered a box of them for our new house. I wouldn't be as upset if we didn't have 3 cats and a dog. I'm usually changing a pleated filter every month because of all the dust and hair. Edit: And to answer your other post, I'd hope they sized the HVAC returns and vents correctly. Running the AC in Sept/Oct and even part of November kept the house consistently cool in all the rooms (3br/2ba upstairs, open kitchen/dining/living room and den on the main floor). Our electricity bill was even lower than our townhome would have been during those months! I'd probably never have noticed with the cheap battery thermostat they installed, but we swapped a Honeywell wifi thermostat the week we moved in. My wife noticed the thermostat "shutting off" and booting back up every once in a while, and I noticed it happening after heating call more often than not. The system will require some added loads once we finish the basement (currently a single vent/return, will need at least a couple additional vents and returns once we add a bedroom/office and additional living room and full bath down there. PitViper fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Jan 15, 2019 |
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Jan 15, 2019 01:36
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PitViper posted:My wife noticed the thermostat "shutting off" and booting back up every once in a while, and I noticed it happening after heating call more often than not. So that's odd... again, not an HVAC person, but if the motor trips out on overcurrent because of too much air resistance, that should NOT kill the thermostat... at least I wouldn't think so. The motor overload should only take out the blower, not the whole system. To be sure, if the blower turns off the thermostat should shut off the heating/cooling elements as well, but it shouldn't reboot... Have you tried putting the old thermostat back in and running that way with the new filters? Worth checking to make sure it's not the thermostat that's wonky. I mean honestly it sounds like there's something wacky going on that isn't caused by your new thermostat, but it'd be worth getting it back to original condition and seeing what happens.
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Jan 15, 2019 15:33
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DaveSauce posted:So that's odd... again, not an HVAC person, but if the motor trips out on overcurrent because of too much air resistance, that should NOT kill the thermostat... at least I wouldn't think so. The motor overload should only take out the blower, not the whole system. To be sure, if the blower turns off the thermostat should shut off the heating/cooling elements as well, but it shouldn't reboot... That'll be my next step. I ran with a fiberglass filter for 3 days with no issues. For all I know it could be the thermostat, but I'd expect it's something with the furnace, since it doesn't happen during cooling or during periods where the blower is running and circulating air with the heat off. Restricted air flow possibly tripping some sort of thermal protection for the heat exchanger, maybe? And to be clear, when the thermostat "turns off", I still hear the blower on the furnace running, but the burners cycle off until the thermostat gets power back and calls for heat. The thermostat makes an audible click when it loses power, so if I'm in the same room I notice it right away.
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Jan 15, 2019 20:09
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PitViper posted:That'll be my next step. I ran with a fiberglass filter for 3 days with no issues. For all I know it could be the thermostat, but I'd expect it's something with the furnace, since it doesn't happen during cooling or during periods where the blower is running and circulating air with the heat off. Restricted air flow possibly tripping some sort of thermal protection for the heat exchanger, maybe? Sounds fishy... if the blower continues to run while the thermostat is off, I would say it's NOT a thermal overload on the blower due to restricted airflow. That should be cutting power to the blower, so it would spin down right away. Maybe there's an airflow switch in the plenum that shuts the system off if there isn't enough air moving (air must be moving before the heat turns on and after it shuts off), but that shouldn't reboot your thermostat. I mean, the fact that your thermostat reboots is pretty sketchy. Sounds like there's a wiring issue either on the t-stat, or in the furnace. Might be a side effect of the air flow issue, but something's not right. You should hit up the HVAC thread someone linked to a few posts up. I could keep guessing blindly and trying troubleshooting steps, but they're the experts and should be able to figure it out pretty quick. I just have enough knowledge to be dangerous. edit: I should clarify, when I refer to thermal overload protection on the blower, I mean in the wiring itself. If the blower is working too hard, the motor will pull too much current, which can damage the motor. There are devices that detect this, similar to a circuit breaker, and will trip out which cuts power to the blower before it burns itself out. I'm not talking about anything related to the actual heating element (burner, calrod, etc.) portion of the furnace, just the electrical/wiring of the blower motor itself. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Jan 15, 2019 |
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Jan 15, 2019 22:09
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Ugh my filter alert hasn’t come on yet on my T-stat but I went down to take a look since that’s all you people can talk about. I found the filter loose in the duct, it fell out of the poorly crafted rails that hold it in place. Who knows how long it’s been like that! Probably all season.
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Jan 16, 2019 04:37
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