|
That's pretty much what I pictured when I thought about crimping with these.
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2019 20:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 11:38 |
|
|
Printing ABS at 260C saw fewer flaws with this piece, though since I'm doing different parts it's hard to judge if that's the only difference. Once it cools down it's popping right off the PEI. I'm fuckin' impressed that wimpy support tower made it. Support was there for a 90 degree overhang on the lower right side of the piece.  Pretty good testament to bed adhesion here, the part can't balance like that on its own. e: FYI for those curious, the IC3D big 5 lb\2.3kg spools WILL fit inside the cheap dehydrator.  Barely. Worked well though, lost 15g of weight after an overnight run in it. PirateDentist fucked around with this message at 09:47 on Jan 11, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 09:31
|
|
|
Wow, you've really gone to the limit for filament drying in a $40 dehydrator with that roll! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-WTbGupxbk I won one of each of the three filament sample subscription boxes in a giveaway. So far I've gotten a Maker Box and an Alien 3D box. Both are pretty cool but I figure I'll wait until I get the third to go over what I think about all of them. The one thing that stands out about the Alien 3D box so far is that the $36 box gives you 6 filament samples, some other samples (I got a micro swiss A2 hardened and plated nozzle) and then a project that's electronics but involves 3d printing in some way. The January box included an Arduino Nano clone, a 16x2 LCD and a temperature and humidity sensor (as well as a mini-USB cable) so you can make a sensor to make sure your filament is dry. I have just been getting $2 sensors on ebay that work fine but it's pretty neat to include all of that even if I'm personally nerdy enough to already have most of it. I'm not sure I'd pay $36 for the box when the contents are somewhat random but that nozzle is pretty pricey so it's kind of a nice inclusion. I just spent $20 on one for my Maker Select, although the alien 3d included one is for a different threading unfortunately. I kind of thought these boxes were gimmicky but I think getting 20 meters of some filaments that I might want to try out is actually pretty neat and I may continue some of the subscriptions. The additional add-ins are a nice bonus and there's a bunch of stickers and discount coupons included from the contributing companies. 3d gloop included some trial bottles of their PLA goop in both boxes. They claim it can be used for bed adhesion, gluing parts together and even smoothing. That's quite the claim for PLA but I don't know if maybe there's a generic instruction card for all the boxes and some have their product for other plastics. I guess I went on a bit more than I planned for this post but I'll do a roundup when I've gotten the third box.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 11:35
|
|
|
Shai-Hulud posted:You'd think so but these are special chinese XT60 plugs! All crimping all the way: Yup. https://youtu.be/4yDp9frWkcg Looks like knockoff connectors with much lower contact pressure, too. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 13:43 on Jan 11, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 13:35
|
|
|
After the pictures I checked my Ender 3 connector last night and it's in perfect condition. It has been printing non stop more or less for 3 months. So possibly poor quality control from a Chinese company....
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 14:55
|
|
|
I always avoided printing with ABS because "fumes" but PETG is so drat goopy and slow printing that I decided to give ABS a go since I have an enclosure. Man, ABS is so much easier to print than PETG. I haven't really noticed a smell either. Bed adhesion is a pain though. Tried hairspray, didn't work, glue stick seemed to be working this morning when I left, print was nearly done, but I could see air pockets under my brim. Is there a better way? I'd rather not do ABS/acetone goop because I'm lazy and like to be able to swap materials without having to do different bed prep.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 22:23
|
|
|
Chef De Cuisinart posted:I always avoided printing with ABS because "fumes" but PETG is so drat goopy and slow printing that I decided to give ABS a go since I have an enclosure. Bed at 105C (I use PET tape), print regular ABS hot as hell (280C).
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 22:43
|
|
|
I've not even set it up, and I'm printing out parts to improve my Monoprice Delta Mini. I'm printing out the base covers, and spool holder slipper. ... Not that I'd really do it this way, excepting I had to print stuff "now" and I'm not one to waste bed space.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 23:23
|
|
|
Industrial ABS printers use about 270C extrusion in a 70C heated envelope and they fuse the first layer onto a disposable plastic bed. An enclosure that you can keep at 70C (might be doable just with a large glass bed heater at 100C and good insulation) is the most involved solution, but also the best one.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 23:24
|
|
|
I got a roll of very bright yellow (fluorescent or high visibility) PLA a while back and a friend of mine likes the color so I printed him a few things. I'm finishing up my christmas printing now that I've gotten my printers a little bit more sorted out and the utility knife handles I posted about a bit before didn't work great in PLA. They look nice but they don't hold together quite as well as the tackier feeling PETG that I used for most of them. So, I bought some semitransparent bright yellow PETG and it really pops. Because of the varied lighting to kind of make the PETG shine I did a couple of pictures and put them in a gallery: https://imgur.com/a/DYkmE99 This is a pretty good look at the PLA vs PETG.  The PLA is Tianse: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS8DABT/ PETG is 3D Best-Q and is unusual because the filament actually has a texture to it: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07574VYWY/
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2019 00:20
|
|
|
For those of you with Duet boards... The Duet Web Control project is re-writing the web ui.. They have put out Duet Web Control 2... Now has a light and dark theme. I like it much better! And it is properly "responsive" as in it works perfectly on the 7" fire tablet I mounted to the front of my printer. The old one didn't really resize itself so well. And it is considerably faster on the tablet to boot. Overall a huge improvement IMHO. Some screen shots! Dark Dashboard:  Dark Status:  Light Dashboard:  Light Status:  New UI Settings page:  Link: https://github.com/chrishamm/DuetWebControl/releases Note that you MUST be running the newest Duet 2.02 firmware to use DWC 2.0.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2019 03:41
|
|
|
stevewm posted:For those of you with Duet boards... It's on the list...still hesitant to spring $400 as I should also get new arms, etc for my Rostock if I get a Duet, but I'm close...real close!
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2019 05:01
|
|
|
stevewm posted:For those of you with Duet boards... I did the flash a little while ago and yeah, for sure do this it's so much nicer to work with.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2019 06:59
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Industrial ABS printers use about 270C extrusion in a 70C heated envelope and they fuse the first layer onto a disposable plastic bed. My enclosure runs about 60c, the lighting doubles as heat. I suppose I could get it in the 70C range. I've only been printing at 230C with no active cooling. Glue stick is working well, so I suppose I'll stick with that for now. Any reason a cooling fan on low speed isn't recommended?
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2019 16:01
|
|
|
Chef De Cuisinart posted:My enclosure runs about 60c, the lighting doubles as heat. I suppose I could get it in the 70C range. I've only been printing at 230C with no active cooling. Glue stick is working well, so I suppose I'll stick with that for now. Any reason a cooling fan on low speed isn't recommended? I know the idea is you want slow consistent cooling. And most coolers are directed just around the nozzle. That said, I usually run mine at the lowest speed it will go. I have an enclosure though, which will get up around 35C with the bed at 100c. I just print on to that build tak stuff that comes on the maker select.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2019 17:35
|
|
|
Chef De Cuisinart posted:Man, ABS is so much easier to print than PETG. I haven't really noticed a smell either. Bed adhesion is a pain though. Tried hairspray, didn't work, glue stick seemed to be working this morning when I left, print was nearly done, but I could see air pockets under my brim. Is there a better way? I'd rather not do ABS/acetone goop because I'm lazy and like to be able to swap materials without having to do different bed prep.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2019 20:22
|
|
|
I finally designed and printed something useful, instead of endlessly tweaking Thingiverse tchotchkes via MeshMixer. I have a portable monitor (Asus ZenScreen) so I can take my dual monitor workflow with me when I work-travel. I wanted a way to mount it to my notebook so the whole shebang takes up less horizontal space while I'm using it. Lonely Flex 5 Notebook:  Hastily designed clip printed on my CR10:   ZenScreen with clip attached:  Here they are happily married:   ]Gotta say I'm very pleased. It feels sturdy, clips on and off quickly, doesn't feel like it's damaging the plastic on the notebook (much...) and does exactly what needed it to do. Anyway. That's my sunday. Happy printing everyone. r.y.f.s.o. fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Jan 13, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2019 21:09
|
|
|
Just be careful if that's PLA. I've used a similar, yet sturdier design for the same thing. And after a few months, the lines failed one by one. ABS or PETG would likely be better.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2019 23:48
|
|
|
Golluk posted:Just be careful if that's PLA. I've used a similar, yet sturdier design for the same thing. And after a few months, the lines failed one by one. ABS or PETG would likely be better. Thanks for the info and yeah, my plan is to redo it using HTPLA from ProtoPasta and anneal it - otherwise I have T-Glase, generic PETG or Nylon +CF from eSun. This is prototype-y AF.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2019 01:16
|
|
|
I haven't used Solidworks before but apparently they've got a maker license now. Hackaday linked this reddit post about it: https://www.reddit.com/r/maker/comments/a9iw5i/get_solidworks_maker_licence_for_free/ quote:Posted byu/Dsk001 I guess it doesn't hurt to sign up for it and try it out if you don't mind downloading 8 GB or whatever.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2019 02:01
|
|
|
Shai-Hulud posted:You'd think so but these are special chinese XT60 plugs! All crimping all the way: 
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2019 03:43
|
|
I CANNOT EJACULATE WITHOUT SEEING NATIVE AMERICANS BRUTALISED!
|
I noticed in the Makers Muse video linked above, the copied ones are just tubes, you can see right through them. While the original were solid and partially drilled out. I mean, if you changed the design to be crimped, it wouldn't be so bad.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2019 12:07
|
|
|
Literally every aspect of the xt60 connector I got with my ender 3 last year is garbage compared to the mountains of amass ones I buy from hobbyking and BG, and it is immediately obvious to anyone who does RC related stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2019 00:12
|
|
|
These super cheap connectors should be called XT69, guaranteed to gently caress your electronics.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2019 13:37
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Octoprint for the host, PrusaSlic3r for the slicer. Is there a decent diy to get ocotoprint running on a mk2s floating around that anyone knows of off the top of their browser favorites, or is it not worth the time and money?
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2019 23:23
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Is there a decent diy to get ocotoprint running on a mk2s floating around that anyone knows of off the top of their browser favorites, or is it not worth the time and money? Octoprint is great but you install it onto a computer and hook that up to your printer's USB port. The OctoPi image is the easiest way to do that for the Raspberry Pi which is probably what you want. The download page has install instructions: https://octoprint.org/download/ There's also a couple of videos about it (there's a ton but these are relatively short): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwsxO3ksxm4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XACqEA1hHU
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 00:20
|
|
|
Since the OP never mentions it, I have to ask. What is the issue with makerbot? It is just that has an ibm/sony/apple tax on the price versus say flashforge. Or is there a design problem with those printers as well? Been looking at getting into 3d printing and already have some ideas of what I'd be building. Which also means I'd need more build space than the little ones. Came down to looking at the flash forge creator pro (I like the idea of dual heads where I could put in pva in the 2nd nozzle for the supports to dissolve later) versus a lulzbot mini 2. But is there any others to look into or some caveats that I'm missing between these two? Kind of leaning towards the flashforge for the flexibility.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 04:00
|
|
|
JuffoWup posted:Since the OP never mentions it, I have to ask. What is the issue with makerbot? It is just that has an ibm/sony/apple tax on the price versus say flashforge. Or is there a design problem with those printers as well? Makerbot was one of the early 3d printer manufacturers, but they now have a bad reputation. They died but they live on: https://hackaday.com/2016/04/28/the-makerbot-obituary/ https://hackaday.com/2018/12/11/makerbot-moves-away-from-makers-with-new-printer/ I'm not that familiar with dual nozzle printers but from my understanding they can be a bit more complicated than single nozzle ones, which I think is why more companies are opting for single nozzle multiple extrusion systems, despite the extra material waste. I'm sure some posters who are more familiar with them will chime in.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 04:40
|
|
|
If you're using OctoPi, make sure to get a 3B+ and a fast SD card. A friend of mine made me install it on his OG, or near OG Pi with the original card, and holy gently caress is it dog slow. Takes ages to boot OctoPrint. God forbid, if you wanted to run Klipper on it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 16:52
|
|
|
Combat Pretzel posted:If you're using OctoPi, make sure to get a 3B+ and a fast SD card. A friend of mine made me install it on his OG, or near OG Pi with the original card, and holy gently caress is it dog slow. Takes ages to boot OctoPrint. God forbid, if you wanted to run Klipper on it. Yeah that 1st gen pi B cpu lives on in the zero/zero W, it sucks
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 17:01
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:Octoprint is great but you install it onto a computer and hook that up to your printer's USB port. The OctoPi image is the easiest way to do that for the Raspberry Pi which is probably what you want. The download page has install instructions: Thank you 
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 17:38
|
|
|
Ordered a Prusa mk3 on the 8th and it's getting here Friday  No powdercoat board though. Looking forward to building it this weekend and seeing how many times I mess it up.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 18:27
|
|
|
Combat Pretzel posted:If you're using OctoPi, make sure to get a 3B+ and a fast SD card. A friend of mine made me install it on his OG, or near OG Pi with the original card, and holy gently caress is it dog slow. Takes ages to boot OctoPrint. God forbid, if you wanted to run Klipper on it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 20:49
|
|
|
JuffoWup posted:Since the OP never mentions it, I have to ask. What is the issue with makerbot? It is just that has an ibm/sony/apple tax on the price versus say flashforge. Or is there a design problem with those printers as well? In addition to the terrible design of their recent printers they also tried to patent things the community made to improve their products for them and released under gpl. My first printer was dual extruder. It caused more issues than it solved. Dissolvable Support’s is very niche requirement. If you don’t already know exactly why you need it, chances are you don’t.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 21:07
|
|
|
I'd even say that goes for dual extrusion in general. If you don't already know exactly why you need it, chances are you don't. Don't get dual extrusion out of a sense of future proofing or whatever.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 21:36
|
|
|
Hah, I should say, the dual extruders was a nice touch, but not a must have. I was more concern if there was a design flaw with having the hotbed also be the z-axis as the makerbot and clones are like, or if it was just a company issue. The flashforge is also quite a bit cheaper with not that much loss in print area compared to the mini 2. Also, it is already enclosed but I doubt I'll ever do abs because fumes is not a fun thing. My other thought though and perhaps the biggest knock on the mini 2 is the use of the 3mm filaments when most everyone is running the 1.75mm filament nowadays.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 22:09
|
|
|
The only use for a second extruder is so you can keep printing while doing maintenance on one of them.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 22:59
|
|
|
I think I found the cause of my issues, Printing too cool, been trying to hit 80mm/a with a 0.6 nozzle at 0.2 layer heights, and that's starting to max out the volumetric speed of my printer at standard print temps. I bumped the temps up to 225 for PLA printing and that seems to have solved my issues so far. I'm glad/frustrated it was something so simple. But oh well. Going to run some tests later to double check this but if that's it I can adjust profiles accordingly
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 01:24
|
|
|
Jestery posted:I think I found the cause of my issues, Haha, I just encountered issues with almost exactly the same scenario today, with a spool of filament I grabbed on Amazon lightning deal a couple weeks ago. Slic3r has a volumetric speed cap option so I cut myself off at 16 of whatever unit that is, which prints fine. Maybe I'll tweak it later
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 09:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 11:38 |
|
|
Cross posting from the Raspberry Pi thread:bolind posted:I heard this thread likes Raspberry Pis.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 15:44
|
|
