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AutoZone sells 3 year warrantied refurbished ones for $1200, any reason I shouldn't just go for that? I feel like I trust that over Dwayne's trans rebuild
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Jan 16, 2019 06:27
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You'd rather trust the lowest bidder using the lowest quality parts? At least Dwane is local.
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Jan 16, 2019 07:39
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Just realized one of my fog light bulbs has burned out (2013 Ford Fusion Titanium if that matters). Two questions...is it worth upgrading to LED bulbs instead of the OEM halogen? I’m still on the stock halogen headlights. Is it worth getting yellow colored bulbs, whether going with Halogen/LED? Thanks!
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Jan 16, 2019 15:39
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LED retrofits are just as bad as HID. The TL;DR is your head/foglight housings are specifically designed around the specific location and shape of the filament in the bulb. Moving and changing this results in the beam pattern scattering, with other drivers being blinded and reducing the effective lit road in front of you to dangerously low levels while traveling at highway speeds. Yellow bulbs can help in a vary narrow range of environmental conditions (heavy rain/snow/fog) but overall won't really do much. Unless you really like the look of it I'd stick with clear glass bulbs.
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Jan 16, 2019 15:47
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Retrofitting high beams that are separate from the low beams could work in some cases though. But you have to be careful to not melt the housing... The conclusion is the same as every other time I've asked/researched: It's not worth the hassle. Just get the best halogens available to you. A lot of people like the Osram Nightbreakers, and I have it on one car. After researching tons I have some GE bulbs waiting to be installed on the other car. The standard GE bulbs are apparently very good, and their Mega light ones are even better (but doesn't last as long). Both beat the Nightbreakers and other commonly recommended bulbs hands down.
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Jan 16, 2019 16:02
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Is there a thread about trains? I like trains. Freight trains, passenger trains, lots of trains.
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Jan 16, 2019 19:56
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https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3394711
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Jan 16, 2019 20:15
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What happened to the Photos from the Road trucker thread? Where's its current incarnation?
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Jan 16, 2019 21:00
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I have a 2006 Chevy Impala. Over the past two months, I've had two remote key fobs die on me. I tried replacing the battery both times this happened, nothing. Also, when the first one died, I tried using the dash computer to pair the fob with the car again, but the dash computer didn't give the chime that the car manual says it should do when a pairing is successful (I didn't try this with the second one (yet)). I asked the person who sold me the car (a family member) if they'd had problems, and they said these fobs are not original, and were purchased at some point from a store online because "the dealership ones were really expensive". They didn't say if they bought these because the originals died, or what. Anybody have insight on what is the most likely thing going on here? My current guesses are: (a) these are crappy third-party fobs that just happened to die near the same time, or (b) I'm doing something that's causing these failures, or (c) something is going wrong with the car. I don't drop my keys off of tall buildings or throw them at my basement wall for target practice, so hopefully that rules out (b).
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Jan 16, 2019 23:40
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I'd most likely blame that on 3rd party key fobs. I got a feeling that it's most likely a soldering issue. ROHS was murder on circuit boards of that time, most famously in the Xbox 360.
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Jan 17, 2019 06:12
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Game-Blouses posted:Just realized one of my fog light bulbs has burned out (2013 Ford Fusion Titanium if that matters). Two questions...is it worth upgrading to LED bulbs instead of the OEM halogen? I’m still on the stock halogen headlights. Is it worth getting yellow colored bulbs, whether going with Halogen/LED? Thanks! My own experience is that for fogs, a yellow-tinted bulb makes a world of difference for actual rain and fog conditions. But stick with halogen. I tried HIDs in the fogs and just wound up pissing off everyone (including myself, because every speed limit sign threw it right back in my face). Your car likely has the "fogs" setup more as an auxiliary driving light, so YMMV (big time). Lutha Mahtin posted:I have a 2006 Chevy Impala. Over the past two months, I've had two remote key fobs die on me. I tried replacing the battery both times this happened, nothing. Also, when the first one died, I tried using the dash computer to pair the fob with the car again, but the dash computer didn't give the chime that the car manual says it should do when a pairing is successful (I didn't try this with the second one (yet)). I asked the person who sold me the car (a family member) if they'd had problems, and they said these fobs are not original, and were purchased at some point from a store online because "the dealership ones were really expensive". They didn't say if they bought these because the originals died, or what. Check eBay for the proper OEM key fobs, they're typically pretty cheap. Barring that, a local independent locksmith should have the equipment to pair them as if it was a dealer doing the work. They can get the proper fobs, but they'll bend you over without lube for them. I'm not sure how your car handles pairing them, though - my 2006 Saturn require a dealer or locksmith visit, but it uses the old school 90s/early 00s GM fobs.
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Jan 17, 2019 07:35
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Also, speaking of fog lights - don't be an rear end in a top hat who runs fogs+dipped.
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Jan 17, 2019 07:41
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STR posted:Barring that, a local independent locksmith should have the equipment to pair them as if it was a dealer doing the work. They can get the proper fobs, but they'll bend you over without lube for them. sorry, i have dismissed your entire post and will not listen to you ever again for advice. i have gay friends and your rapey homophobic joke means that you are a garbage person 
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Jan 17, 2019 07:43
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I'm conflicted, but gonna put this LM post here down in my "pretty good self-own" ledger.
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Jan 17, 2019 07:49
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I'm (mostly) a gay myself, so I'm more than a bit confused here.
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Jan 17, 2019 08:48
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Lutha Mahtin posted:sorry, i have dismissed your entire post and will not listen to you ever again for advice. i have gay friends and your rapey homophobic joke means that you are a garbage person Sometimes it's hard to tell whether something is a joke or serious.
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Jan 17, 2019 09:58
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Shut up Meg posted:Sometimes it's hard to tell whether something is a joke or serious. shut up meg (see what i did there) 
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Jan 17, 2019 13:58
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Goober Peas posted:shut up meg Did you do the voice? I always do the voice.
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Jan 17, 2019 14:28
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So... what makes small displacement turbo engines (if it's even limited to these) sound like tractors/truck at low RPM if straight piped/equipped with a bad exhaust?
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Jan 17, 2019 14:43
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Shut up Meg posted:Did you do the voice? I always do the voice. I try - I can do Lois' voice perfectly. Peter, not so much.
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Jan 17, 2019 14:45
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MrOnBicycle posted:So... what makes small displacement turbo engines (if it's even limited to these) sound like tractors/truck at low RPM if straight piped/equipped with a bad exhaust?
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Jan 17, 2019 16:03
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MrOnBicycle posted:So... what makes small displacement turbo engines (if it's even limited to these) sound like tractors/truck at low RPM if straight piped/equipped with a bad exhaust? Resonance/standing waves in the exhaust pipes (of which there are now more of, technically)?
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Jan 18, 2019 02:11
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Hi everyone - first time AI poster, long time lurker - I lost one of my FOB's for my 2017 Chevy Cruze. I do have a spare at home, what is the cheapest way for me to just have a replacement for the spare? I don't need any fancy poo poo, i can remote start with my phone etc. -trying not to spend $300 for a replacement key if I can avoid it. Looks like I can buy one and program it using the spare I have at home?
vyst fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Jan 18, 2019 |
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Jan 18, 2019 04:00
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You'd have to look it up but at least on older cars you can take the part number off your spare one and buy another off eBay or possibly amazon and program it yourself. I haven't tried it on a car that new so make sure to do your research to see if it is possible to program it yourself. Also don't accidentally buy a replacement fob shell(plastic casing for a fob) instead of the whole thing. Some sellers are tricky about that.
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Jan 18, 2019 04:36
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Autoexec.bat posted:You'd have to look it up but at least on older cars you can take the part number off your spare one and buy another off eBay or possibly amazon and program it yourself. I haven't tried it on a car that new so make sure to do your research to see if it is possible to program it yourself. Also don't accidentally buy a replacement fob shell(plastic casing for a fob) instead of the whole thing. Some sellers are tricky about that. And if you can't program it yourself, take the cheap eBay or Amazon fob to a locksmith who can program it for 1/10 of what a dealer would charge.
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Jan 18, 2019 04:42
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Thanks yall. Based on the manual it looks like I can program it myself easy since i have the spare FOB. I see the same type of keys on ebay/amazon - but they are uncut. I assume I can take them to like a locksmith or home depot with my spare FOB and they can cut it to match?
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Jan 18, 2019 05:03
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A locksmith should be able to do it without much issue. I wouldn't recommend home depot unless you are cutting a key for something that predates chip keys due to the risk of it not working and you being out the cost of the key.
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Jan 18, 2019 05:37
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Home Depot, Lowes, etc can only cut keys specifically made for their key cutters. You need a real locksmith.
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Jan 18, 2019 06:26
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Heh, reminds me of our local Sears (which closed last year) had a dedicated outpost of a building that did nothing but cut keys.
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Jan 18, 2019 13:57
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C-Bangin' it 
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So, who's full of poo poo, Geico's repair place or the dealership? My Forester slid on some ice during the snowstorm last weekend. I hit the curb with my right front tire at an odd angle (not quite lateral). I heard a loud crunch and actually thought it had gotten some of the plastic up there because that's the kind of noise I thought I heard, but apparently it was all the wheel. Car was driveable but I get a repetitive humming/droning noise at speed and it might be in my head but I feel a little more play in the wheel than usual. I took it to the dealership to look at it as I was already going there for an oil change and an inspection before my warranty runs out in a couple thousand miles. They said I damaged the wheel bearing which was causing the noise, but also bent my wheel (not so bad that it was a danger, but they said it might increase road noise), tore a bushing in the control arm and probably did something to a tie rod because there's more play than there should be. They found these problems all on the right front side and only found regular wear on the left side that required no repair. $1700 to replace all of the above. They also said the rest of the car looked fine and I didn't need to rotate my tires as the ones up front had more depth and I should keep them up there as they'd wear faster. Geico made me take it to their place which despite giving me an appointment to drop off the car, sat on it for about a day without even looking at it which has me disliking these guys already. Then they finally looked at it and said there's nothing wrong other than the wheel bearing. They did an alignment check and it was close enough that they said there's no issue with anything underneath. I don't know that they actually looked at anything underneath because he just kept saying the alignment sheet was fine and the dealership didn't know what they were talking about and he would only listen if they had an alignment sheet that had worse numbers. He also said the two tires on my left side were "egg shaped" and were probably causing the noise, though he backed off from that when I said the noise was only post-accident. Tires have about 20k on them and both the dealership and a local place I went to 6 months ago had no problems with them. They want $500 to replace the hub and bearing which is basically what the dealership will charge me. This is obviously not worth filing a claim since it's barely over my deductible. (I've got a clean enough record that I get one round of accident forgiveness so while not a huge claim, I did think it made sense to go through insurance and finally take out some money after 20 years of paying in, if the full cost was going to be $1700) Kase Im Licht fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Jan 18, 2019 |
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Jan 18, 2019 20:23
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Take it to another shop for another opinion. What the dealer described is very typical of what happens in that kind of impact (wheel bearing/hub, wheel, tie rod, sometimes control arms and the tire).
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Jan 18, 2019 20:35
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STR posted:Take it to another shop for another opinion. What the dealer described is very typical of what happens in that kind of impact (wheel bearing/hub, wheel, tie rod, sometimes control arms and the tire). Will do. Geico shop basically said it was crazy to even claim that any of the stuff outside of the bearing/hub could have been damaged by what I described.
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Jan 18, 2019 20:46
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GEICO is likely only writing an estimate for what they can tell is damaged right now. The dealer is likely writing for anything that might be damaged. The actual damage could be anywhere in between, once you get suspension components removed. If GEICO won’t repair/replace the damaged items they’ll have to do a formal denial for whatever they aren’t covering. This will require either a supervisor or, more likely, a managers authority level. They may disagree with the rep who wrote the estimate. In short, escalate the issue up the chain, don’t let them shrug you off.
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Jan 18, 2019 20:51
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STR posted:Take it to another shop for another opinion. What the dealer described is very typical of what happens in that kind of impact (wheel bearing/hub, wheel, tie rod, sometimes control arms and the tire). Seconding, the bearing absolutely got nicked; I'd also replace any of the wear parts there- they're relatively cheap, & you'll be doing an alignment anyway. Also, have them pay particular attention to where the lower control arm is tied to the frame; that can make an alignment super-wonky & hard to dial in if that area took the brunt & got pranged. big crush on Chad OMG posted:GEICO is likely only writing an estimate for what they can tell is damaged right now... Correct, and by the time he finds out that the tie rod or other crap needs replacing, it could be many months into the future, and they may claim he dinged something else or that it's normal wear & tear. Suspension & minor frame damage is not like body-shell damage & the subtlety of it gets lost on auto claim supervisors; ask me how I know. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Jan 18, 2019 |
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Jan 18, 2019 23:49
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STR posted:Home Depot, Lowes, etc can only cut keys specifically made for their key cutters. You need a real locksmith. They can, but they won't because of their agreement with Hillman. Ace gave me no problems.
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Jan 19, 2019 02:34
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Godholio posted:They can, but they won't because of their agreement with Hillman. Potato, Potato. Kase Im Licht posted:Will do. Geico shop basically said it was crazy to even claim that any of the stuff outside of the bearing/hub could have been damaged by what I described. Geico shop is almost certainly a chain body shop, not a suspension place or mechanic. You can use a shop of your choosing, but it'll be a bit harder to get them to pay for it without an adjuster that's willing to play ball. If it's new enough to be in warranty, I'd be pushing for the dealer to do the work, or a Subaru shop. It'd be a shame if something happened to that warranty, wouldn't it?
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Jan 19, 2019 07:07
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I have 2 questions about my 2010 Corolla. I live in Montreal and it gets cold, but not insanely cold (more -15C than -30C). I tend to get a wary of cold starting as it seems hard on the engine but I don't know how justified that scare is. Should I get a block heater, or the car can take it? I read that more modern engines don't really have a problem with cold starts anymore and that doing a lot of idling does more bad than good. What's annoying me is that my dad really used to insist on the importance of heating and idling in the 90s, so what I read is at odds with what I was taught. My other question is on washing. It's my first white car and I never realized how dirty winter is. I read that it's especially important to wash the car in winter with all the salt and grime to preserve the paint. Is that true? How often should I get it washed? Are regular car washes fine in negative temps? It feels like the car will just freeze over but maybe the driers in car washes are really good. Thanks!
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Jan 19, 2019 15:25
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Block heater can't hurt, but you don't need to do any kind of idling unless you want a warm car to get into. There is more wear while the engine is cold, and it warms up a lot slower while idling. So best course of action is to start and idle for a few minutes max if it's really cold, then drive gently until everything is up to temp. Keep in mind when your temperature gauge gets to the middle, you likely have another 10-15 minutes until your oil is warm, which is what really matters WRT to engine wear. So no redline pulls or heavy acceleration until then if you care about long term engine health.
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Jan 19, 2019 15:34
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Colonel J posted:
Like with everything maintaining is much easier than repairing/restoring. If you never wash your car the paint will have a ton of contaminants and will look dull and lifeless. Bird poo poo leaves stains (less noticeable on a white car) and it wouldn't surprise me if paint doesn't enjoy being caked with salt. While the paint itself might stand up to years of never being washed, all the moisture and dirt traps can lead to rust. I take extra care to wash the wheel wells, underside etc to ensure that there is no dirt caked space that is going to rust. But then again, if you care about the paint you wouldn't use any car washed that uses brushes on the paint. The best option is touch-less do it yourself places that have some sort of inside bay that isn't as cold. Hot water on cold glass could be a problem, especially if there are cracks already. But yeah, if you wash it with cold water in freezing temperatures it will freeze. Edit: Came across this, kinda relevant: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdWbtcsLmJA MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Jan 20, 2019 |
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Jan 19, 2019 16:27
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| # ? May 14, 2024 02:32 |
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I have a 2013 Honda Civic EX Sedan. Recently, it has had trouble starting on occasion. From googling it seems to be a no start/no crank issue. There is a bit more back history. I had to swap batteries after I had it for about 2.5 years. I bought it new. Just recently it totally died and got a jump from AAA. The battery I had purchased was still in warranty but the person at the shop said I had been sold the wrong one. They tested the battery and it was fully charged but wasn't sending out any power. So they replaced it with a new one. I'm sorry if that doesn't make sense about it not supplying power. Anyway, after doing some research, I think I've narrowed it down to three things: 1 - bad fuse 2 - bad starter 3 - bad alternator At this point I'm a bit lost as to which direction to go, other than just bring it to a shop. Is there a way I can test to figure out which of these three things is the problem? Also, most of the time the car works just fine. It starts fine. Power is fine. But sometimes when I turn the key, nothing happens. And on occasion I have to wait a few minutes to try again. I don't think it is the starter because I don't hear it even attempting to turn over and there is no whine or sputter. I kind of think it might be a bad fuse.
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Jan 20, 2019 16:27
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