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You'll never get the smell out. It will also invade anything you wash with those clothes. Probably a little too late, but you should be sending oil samples to the lab of your choice. 6.7s are notorious for getting diesel in the oil which is a big problem with a 15,000 mile change interval. Not as much of a problem on the newer engines, but $30 for peace of mind at least every few oil changes with an $18000 engine.
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Jan 13, 2019 17:26
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I hadn’t heard of fuel dilution with the 6.7. The level never went up on the dipstick and it didn’t smell like diesel coming out. Honestly it smelled a little bit like the SCR treated exhaust. I probably won’t go the full 15,000 mile interval. The warranty goes for 100k and I would like to keep it so every 6 months it is. As for the fuel filters, they will be going until the life monitor reads zero. And I will buy some hose to drain the rear next time.
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Jan 13, 2019 17:44
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What did I fail to do to my ride yesterday? The driver's side decklid taillight assembly was loose.  There's a little plastic protrusion that fits into a slot in the trunk to hold the assembly in place. Some idiot tapped my bumper in a parking lot just hard enough to break it off. Apparently, this is a common enough issue with F30s that BMW designed an updated part, number 63217372793. Two months ago, I ordered a replacement part from an online junkyard called Pacific Motors. I finally got around to swapping it in this weekend.  Along the way, I lost a weird fastener for the trunk liner that I have no idea how to replace.  And then I put the two parts side by side (top: original, bottom: yard, and you can see the little lip that snapped off on the left side of each part), and realized two things.  1) The part I bought online is corroded as hell, and the one that's been loose and open to the rain for months in my car is not. 2) There's a bolt that the white doohickey on the right mounts onto. In the part in my car, that bolt is in tight enough that I think it might be glued in place somehow. In the replacement part, it's been stripped out.  I put it all back together so I can drive the car around while I figure out what to do about this. Ideally, I'd want to go to a pick-a-part yard and just strip this thing out, but there aren't very many in the Bay Area and none of the ones I called had any F30s. I'm afraid to start trying to tear mine apart to pull out the uncorroded metal. Could I maybe somehow use JB Weld or something to mold a replacement for the little plastic nubbin that snapped off the old part? Also, where am I going to find another one of those weird fasteners?
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Jan 13, 2019 18:42
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Powershift posted:You'll never get the smell out. It will also invade anything you wash with those clothes. Fast orange makes a pretty potent mechanics laundry detergent that pulled the smell of kerosene out of my washer and clothes after I used gojo to pretreat some gnarly stains in a work shirt. It might be worth a shot, but it is expensive.
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Jan 13, 2019 18:54
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Dadliest Worrier posted:Could I maybe somehow use JB Weld or something to mold a replacement for the little plastic nubbin that snapped off the old part? Also, where am I going to find another one of those weird fasteners? I have seen those in a trim fastener kit. Try “bmw trim fastener” on amazon.
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Jan 13, 2019 23:37
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Powershift posted:You'll never get the smell out. It will also invade anything you wash with those clothes. Yeah, you can do a last stand with vinegar.
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Jan 14, 2019 00:14
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C-Bangin' it 
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Dadliest Worrier posted:1) The part I bought online is corroded as hell, and the one that's been loose and open to the rain for months in my car is not. You probably bought flood car parts.
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Jan 14, 2019 00:46
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rdb posted:I have seen those in a trim fastener kit. Try “bmw trim fastener” on amazon. https://www.clipsandfasteners.com Has basically every car fastener ever.
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Jan 14, 2019 01:00
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rdb posted:I have seen those in a trim fastener kit. Try “bmw trim fastener” on amazon. Thanks, that got me started in the right direction. There are a bunch of similar fasteners for sale. Hopefully I can find one that'll work. ^^^ Oh man, even better.
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Jan 14, 2019 07:04
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DJ Commie posted:You probably bought flood car parts. I bet that's exactly what it was. Fuckers.
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Jan 14, 2019 07:12
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Any ideas from anyone as to why my fuel pump wouldn’t be pulling fuel? It is mounted below the outlet of the tank and even when hotwired to run constantly pulls no fuel. Stupid question: can you draw fuel from the tank outlet without the pump? Like, sucking on it or using a vacuum pump?
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Jan 14, 2019 17:37
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Forgot to add what I did. Zinc plated some bolts, after figuring out I needed MORE POWER:   and bolted the bumper bar on to the   I'll get the skin on when it isn't gloomy and (as) chilly outside. I decided my Sunday was better spent playing video games this time.
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Jan 14, 2019 19:26
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Darchangel posted:Stupid question: can you draw fuel from the tank outlet without the pump? Like, sucking on it or using a vacuum pump? I hadn’t checked this the other day, but it was flowing fuel fine before as the car was running before I swapped the pump. But I did also realize the tank was very nearly empty and gravity wasn’t helping at all, and maybe the pump needs to be primed in addition to having more gas in the tank. Edit: I wired in a toggle switch for the fuel pump. There was a convenient blank spot by the choke lever.  Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Jan 16, 2019 |
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Jan 14, 2019 20:29
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Ok update: fuel pump is good to go after priming with a turkey baster, but now the car wants to idle at 3500rpm. After a quick email to RB, it’s probably just an air leak, likely between the motor and manifold. I’ll have to drain the coolant again and pull the manifold off to check that I got everything snugged down properly but I’ll spray carb cleaner around and see where it changes speed first. Just don’t want to run the motor too long at those RPMs stone cold for too long if I can avoid it...
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Jan 16, 2019 01:33
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That's going to be a pretty good-sized air leak. Aside from the carb-cleaner trick, I'd say start with the biggest hole - check the port for the power brake booster. Also, probably should have put freeze plugs in the coolant passages while you had the manifold off. That seems to be what most folks do with aftermarket manifolds.
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Jan 16, 2019 18:28
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Darchangel posted:That's going to be a pretty good-sized air leak. Aside from the carb-cleaner trick, I'd say start with the biggest hole - check the port for the power brake booster. I disassembled and reinstalled everything. Same issue. Only thing I can think is to put some gasket maker around the intake ports. The booklet mentions using it on the water ports but I can’t see the harm in doing it around the other four. There’s really nowhere else it can be leaking from other than the booster port and I checked that as well.
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Jan 16, 2019 18:37
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Cover the carb throat with your hands. Does that choke it down? Could be misadjusted throttle plates.
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Jan 17, 2019 18:56
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Go over the carb again and make sure you haven't missed anything hilariously obvious. I bring this up because when we put a new Edelbrock Quadrajet on my C10 years decades ago there were at least four of us who were staring at it and couldn't figure out why it was running like poo poo. It wasn't until we were returning the carb to the store that I noticed a giant threaded port on the back of the baseplate that we had never plugged.
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Jan 17, 2019 19:08
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I’m taking a few days off from the RX7 to recover my brain powers, but yes closing the choke plate chokes it down quite a bit. Is it possible to adjust the throttle plates other than with the external screw? On to a different car. There’s a blizzard coming so I HAD to do the rear brakes on the FXT. The wife had said they were grinding and sho’ nuff. Sticking caliper on the driver’s side. The brakes are less than 18 months old. Driver’s side    Passenger side. No stuck hardware here but lots of rust behind the rotor. That mangled mess is the dust shield.   In the spring I’ll do the fronts since I have Hawk rotors and pads waiting to go on, but I won’t subject them to the questionable factory calipers. I’ll get new ones for that job as well.
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Jan 18, 2019 01:02
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Put these mother fuckers on  Not perfectly straight but I didn't feel like taking the wheel off and jacking it up again to move a screw 1mm over. Hopefully it reduces the stone chips down the side of the car and should provide a bit of early warning when parallel parking after I get some new wheels next week.
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Jan 19, 2019 11:42
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Imperador do Brasil posted:I’m taking a few days off from the RX7 to recover my brain powers, but yes closing the choke plate chokes it down quite a bit. Is it possible to adjust the throttle plates other than with the external screw? Did you adjust the secondary throttle stop as well as the primary side? I don't know that specific carb, but usually on vacuum-secondary Holleys (IIRC) they will have a big obvious screw for the primaries, then a little tiny allen set screw for the secondaries (because the vacuum pod gets in the way of there being a fullsize screw there) Did you set both throttle plates with the carb off the car, to expose the right amount of transfer slot? Should be square on the primary side and right at zero on the secondary side, IIRC.
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Jan 19, 2019 22:49
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Raluek posted:Did you adjust the secondary throttle stop as well as the primary side? I don't know that specific carb, but usually on vacuum-secondary Holleys (IIRC) they will have a big obvious screw for the primaries, then a little tiny allen set screw for the secondaries (because the vacuum pod gets in the way of there being a fullsize screw there) There is only one screw as far as I can see, and RB themselves in a reply e-mail only mentioned a single screw. I’ll have to check the transfer slots next time but even with the idle screw backed off all the way it still races. I didn’t think that adjustment would account for 3k rpm either, maybe a few hundred or a thousand. Do you think it could?
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Jan 20, 2019 01:20
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Imperador do Brasil posted:There is only one screw as far as I can see, and RB themselves in a reply e-mail only mentioned a single screw. Upon further research, it looks like the secondary screw isn't really meant to be messed with: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8ROjrGAH2I Mine is actually a Demon, which although being owned by Holley and using Holley parts, apparently has the screw in a different spot where it can be accessed from the top. You're right that 3k RPM seems like way too much, but I don't know the first thing about rotaries. How much throttle would you need to use at idle / in neutral in order to get to that RPM normally? If it's more than a little bit, it does sound like there is a leak somewhere else. Or maybe your throttle linkage isn't letting it close all the way? Have you tried disconnecting it?
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Jan 20, 2019 06:07
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Paid other people to do: 4 new tires New battery New front rotors New front disks Brake flush Alignment Oil change $1235 Totally forgot how nice new tires are. Dude said I would enjoy them, said he had same make of continentals on his Crown Vic. Sounds like he belongs here eh?
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Jan 20, 2019 16:14
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Raluek posted:Upon further research, it looks like the secondary screw isn't really meant to be messed with: Yeah I’ve tried disconnecting the linkage and just running it that way. It’s actually trying to idle at 4K which is a fair amount of throttle to keep it there. I also ordered a new fuel pressure gauge to make sure that it’s not getting some insane amount of fuel pressure and that’s messing something up, but I am fairly certain it’s an air leak somewhere. I’ll work on it again throughout next week: I’ll check the brake booster itself and the line leading to it. There’s not a lot of lines or places for it to leak so I’m thinking It’s something obvious that I missed.
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Jan 20, 2019 17:14
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some_admin posted:Paid other people to do: New front rotors / new front disks?
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Jan 20, 2019 17:50
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He meant front dicks 
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Jan 20, 2019 18:09
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Dynoed it. It has 72,000 miles on a direct-injection turbo engine, so I figured it’d be down on power, but it basically hit the factory numbers. Now I don’t feel like I need to drop money on a walnut blast and catch can. Sweet!
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Jan 20, 2019 20:49
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I’m at 75k on my MS3, and deep down I know I need to clean the valves but haven’t found the motivation yet. You’ve fueled my procrastination, thanks.
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Jan 21, 2019 00:26
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Changed the oil on my GTI and replaced a bad O2 sensor today. It's weird how different German poo poo boxes are from the 70s pickups I'm used to tinkering with.
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Jan 21, 2019 01:12
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Not my car but helped a woman fix a flat on her vw westfalia last night while at the bar. She didn't have the lug wrench in get car. She even called roadside assistance through her insurance, guy shows up and doesn't have the right size lug wrench (19mm) and just leaves, suggests she signs up for AAA. She was awesome and really appreciative. She came into the bar, bought my friend and i a pitcher and then stayed for a bit and had a drink. The vw jack was interesting. It was like a one sided cantilever scissor Jack.
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Jan 21, 2019 02:09
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How the gently caress does roadside not have a 3/4 / 19mm socket? Literally every vehicle I own uses that 
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Jan 21, 2019 04:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:How the gently caress does roadside not have a 3/4 / 19mm socket? Literally every vehicle I own uses that Thats what I thought. I would just assume they would carry all the common lug nut sizes, even if not just a typical sae and metric socket set. He also said something about "I don't do 'service'" meaning she had to remove the spare, he would only facilitate removing the flat and putting on the spare, not removing it from the car. He also said he wouldn't touch the car until the bike rack was removed from the hitch. She removed the hitch and he took one look at how the tire was attached to the car, said something about VW using special nuts and packed up and drove away. The hosed up part is the spare tire is underneath between the rear wheels attached by a metal carrier that has one bolt in front and two in the rear, which are the same size as the lugs for convenience but if you had a typical 4 prong lug wrench, you couldn't get it underneath to loosen the rear tire. The lady didn't have her lug wrench that came with the van so luckily I had a ratchet. I'm just amazed by the fact that someone with a tow truck and most of their business is probably tows, jump starts, locking your keys inside, and flat tires wouldn't have the proper tools to do one of those things. Here's a photo of how the carrier works.  The two bolts are on the left. The driver side bolt needs to come out completely. Nearest bolt gets loosened and then there's a bigger hole next to the bolt so you just pivot the entire carrier and the spare drops down. Kind of a weird system. Verman fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Jan 21, 2019 |
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Jan 21, 2019 07:03
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She needs to raise hell with her insurance over that,  says the guy billed it as completed work, or marked it as something more complicated than stated, so the rear end in a top hat still got paid more than likely.It also counts as an insurance claim...
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Jan 21, 2019 11:32
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STR posted:She needs to raise hell with her insurance over that, Roadside claims don’t count as a claim with the same weight as a comp/coll/pd/etc claim. It may show up with CLUE (Comprehensive Loss Underwriting Exchange, aka how companies share loss history with each other) but it’s not classified as an accident, or vandalism, or whatever. Most companies don’t care about roadside claims unless it’s excessive Honestly these days I recommend that folks use an on demand service and pay the one time fee unless they have some unreliable car. Most people don’t use roadside for years so paying a subscription based model is going the way of the dodo. Urgently, Honk, etc. are all companies that offer on demand service and I’ve found the folks who work through those services tend to not be the grizzled, stereotypical tow truck driver. They also offer modern technology - you can report online vs the phone(instant gps coordinates), see the drivers ETA real time on a map, hell you can even choose the tow truck company in a lot of cases. Thanks for reading my manifesto on roadside Literally Lewis Hamilton fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Jan 21, 2019 |
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Jan 21, 2019 13:50
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:New front rotors / new front disks? Oops , meant new pads & new rotors derp
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Jan 21, 2019 16:41
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Verman posted:The vw jack was interesting. It was like a one sided cantilever scissor Jack. those things are superlatively unsafe
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Jan 21, 2019 18:08
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Verman posted:The lady didn't have her lug wrench that came with the van so luckily I had a ratchet. I'm just amazed by the fact that someone with a tow truck and most of their business is probably tows, jump starts, locking your keys inside, and flat tires wouldn't have the proper tools to do one of those things. When I blew out a tire on my Ranger, my passenger had roadside coverage and I did not feel like changing a tire on the loving center median of I10 during rush hour. Roadside showed up in a Miata equipped with a floor jack and a battery impact. Zero loving excuses for a tow driver.
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Jan 21, 2019 19:36
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Verman posted:The vw jack was interesting. It was like a one sided cantilever scissor Jack. Yeah, that thing is commonly referred to as "the widowmaker". Reportedly sketchy as gently caress even on flat, level concrete.
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Jan 21, 2019 22:12
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I've got my car's jack sitting in my basement because there is no way i would ever use it on a car. It's a high-lift style jack that hooks into holes in the front and rear bumper, but all that it clicks into is a tiny little hole stamped in it at every step. Between that and the way it drives when the roads are covered in ice makes me wonder how any car made it out of the 70s.
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Jan 21, 2019 22:32
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