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Thanks for the feedback everyone  What’s the airbrushing part for the blood reavers? Priming, color blocking the flesh and pants, then conventional brushing everything else? Because you did like 120 of them on that super cool dipping speed painting!! JIZZ DENOUEMENT fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Jan 21, 2019 |
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Jan 21, 2019 02:50
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:For folks that mainly do airbrushing... what % of the total model paint process is done with airbrush vs conventional brush? Depends on the model. Dreads, armor, infinity models, lots of marines, drukhari vehicles/coven stuff, and Necrons see heavy airbrushing. CSM is more blocking out. Edge highlights are almost always gonna be by hand. What the airbrush buys you (other than saving time and paint) is incredible efficiency in shading, zenithal highlights/OSL, and color blocking. It also helps avoid brush strokes on large surfaces. Once you're more comfortable with it, you can do most Tau/marine stuff incredibly fast. Aggressors are a good example, and probably inceptors (I haven't painted any yet). If I were spitballing, I'd say it cuts the time on leviathan dreads and ravenwing flyers by about 75%. Similar for poxwalkers, plague marines, daemons in general The only way to get more comfortable is to do it. You don't need a $200 brush yet, though
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Jan 21, 2019 03:00
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Here's the thing about airbrush equipment... Money buys longevity and reliability, not better results. By that I mean, that the difference between a $50 compressor and a $250 compressor is that one will last you a year of constant use, and one will last you 10+ years. Otherwise they both pump the same air at the same rates. The difference between a knockoff airbrush you get in a package deal on Amazon, and a $150 Iwata is that the Iwata is going to last practically forever, be easy to clean and maintain, get parts for and you won't strip the threads if you try to disassemble/reassemble it. Otherwise they spray the same paint with the same precision. Even Airbrush paint is just pre-thinned model acrylics in dropper bottles. Properly thinned you can use your existing paints. This means that if you're on a tight budget or just looking to dip your toe in and see if you want to try airbrushing and see if you like it. Buy the cheap kit off Amazon and give it a try. If you like it, upgrade to quality gear as the starter set starts wearing out or you advance beyond it's abilities. Yes if you buy quality equipment from the beginning you'll save yourself some money in the long run, IF you continue to use it regularly, but if it turns out it's not your thing or you only use it to prime and basecoat, you'll save a few hundred bucks right now.
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Jan 21, 2019 03:31
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:For folks that mainly do airbrushing... what % of the total model paint process is done with airbrush vs conventional brush? As others have said this is entirely down to the colour scheme and miniature. My last 40k army was 90% airbrush, my current 30k army is nearly 100% apart from some oil washes and a couple of sharp highlights.
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Jan 21, 2019 03:36
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I procrastinate a lot for mini painting, so I kind of don't use an airbrush besides priming and top coats. Except outside of mini painting. Airbrushing has been great for little tasks around the house like containers, fixtures, and labeling outdoor stuff. Someone I know wants their light switch covers to be a particular pale yellow and couldn't find them anywhere. I can just do that for cheap and for little effort. As gauche as it is to say in a miniatures painting thread, airbrushing is also good for not miniatures painting. It's a tool kit and, like most tool kits, has many uses.
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Jan 21, 2019 03:56
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Cat Face Joe posted:i thought this was a computer rendering at first Gareth Gobulcoque posted:That's dope af, ijyt. Cheers!
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Jan 21, 2019 11:38
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I cannot give you public praise until my commission is finished.
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Jan 21, 2019 12:22
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Are diamond-dust files too strong for plastics? If so, what do you guys recommend instead?
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Jan 21, 2019 19:51
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40k cross post. I painted some things. Pretty happy with how they turned out all things considered. I wanted to keep total paint time under 2 hours per model so the blending is a little quick and dirty by my standards even though ok overall. I might try and do that differently next time with single brush blends maybe.
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Jan 21, 2019 20:22
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Those are excellent and the grass you used for basing color really nails the scheme. Great work.
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Jan 21, 2019 20:58
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Sab669 posted:Are diamond-dust files too strong for plastics? If so, what do you guys recommend instead? Nah that stuff's great, but I'd follow it up with some fine grit sandpaper/emery boards.
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Jan 21, 2019 21:29
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Sab669 posted:Are diamond-dust files too strong for plastics? If so, what do you guys recommend instead? Depends. What are you trying to do exactly?
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Jan 21, 2019 23:50
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Doctor Zero posted:Depends. What are you trying to do exactly? Just filing down where my flush cutters couldn't get a clean cut. Trying to step up my assembling /model prep game this year. Just picked up the GW mold line tool and it's nice. Pretty expensive and I'm sure a hobby knife would've been fine but I like not having to worry about cutting myself  Has a great weight to it.
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Jan 22, 2019 00:28
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Sab669 posted:Just filing down where my flush cutters couldn't get a clean cut. Trying to step up my assembling /model prep game this year. Yeah that world work, but I prefer an exacto and using the flat of the blade to scrape away plastic. Files make the plastic rough, which is actually okay if you’re going to glue it (not about more surface - just that it won’t be seen. Plastic glue literally melts the plastic together so surface area doesn’t matter as much as long as there’s contact). But yeah, you’ll lose blood doing it that way. Deffo. You’ll also ruin the blade so get extra or use an older blade. I think I made a video at one point. Maybe I can find it. Found it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahyiWLwjYk0 Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Jan 22, 2019 |
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Jan 22, 2019 00:46
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Yea I've noticed the files kind of rough up some of the plastic. It's hard to be precise with them but I think now between that and the mold line tool I should be much better off.
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Jan 22, 2019 01:21
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I use two pairs of files. Cheap files that grind down really well, but leave marks, and miniature files that have less bite, but leave no marks.
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Jan 22, 2019 01:48
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:40k cross post. I painted some things. Pretty happy with how they turned out all things considered. I wanted to keep total paint time under 2 hours per model so the blending is a little quick and dirty by my standards even though ok overall. I might try and do that differently next time with single brush blends maybe. These are some of the best Thousand Sons I've ever seen. They really pop, and echoing everyone else on the basing.
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Jan 22, 2019 01:50
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:40k cross post. I painted some things. Pretty happy with how they turned out all things considered. I wanted to keep total paint time under 2 hours per model so the blending is a little quick and dirty by my standards even though ok overall. I might try and do that differently next time with single brush blends maybe. What did you use for that grass? The pink/orange is absolutely crazy and I love it.
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Jan 22, 2019 03:48
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Just regular static grass tufts. Primed white, then spectra tex fluorescent wild berry, pink, and orange. All through the airbrush. There's also fluorescent paint on the flames on the icon. It's a really easy way to provide intense and vibrant pop to miniatures. It's even more effective in person where the colors are a little more eye searing than a screen a reproduce, but it does take a little practice and some planning to make sure they're acting as an eye catching accent without overwhelming the rest of the model. Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Jan 22, 2019 |
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Jan 22, 2019 05:18
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I've posted blurry, out-of-focus shots of my Infinity mans before, but here they are in GLORIOUS HACH DEE         I will say I am insanely glad I decided to go with the yellow-and-white for my tiny model count spec ops infinity army and not for my genestealer cultists.
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Jan 22, 2019 06:58
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Have a crow X-postBULBASAUR posted:Thanks to some nice goon pointers I now have better pix of my suicidal bird men. Here are the latest 'volunteers' along with some better shots of stuff I painted last year. I initially thought the recon squads would look like garbage because the poses looked hunched over and weird, but as a group they look really really dynamic.
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Jan 22, 2019 11:43
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Cross-posting the results of "Dry January" (and the last two weeks of December)richyp posted:Here's the 1480pts of my Grand Host of Nagash from the Realm of Life that started as 4 Glaivewraith Stalkers last month, and spiralled out of control a bit.
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Jan 22, 2019 14:58
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BULBASAUR posted:Have a crow X-post 
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Jan 22, 2019 16:18
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So I'm just starting out (I painted a space marine at PAX Unplugged and enjoyed it so I got some stuff to do more painting) -- I need matte medium to make my own wash from my paints? That's why I wasn't at all happy with what I got by just watering down my paint last night? On the plus side it was a bone monster so I'm not at all unhappy with what the watered down grey did to his ivory, because I figure he should look dirty, but the results were definitely not the making-the-details-pop result I got when I put watered down Nurgle Oil on my trial space marine at the Games Workshop booth.
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Jan 22, 2019 22:18
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First completed model of the new year. On another note why did I decide to play admech they're hateful to paint 
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Jan 22, 2019 22:30
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gilljoy posted:
Yeah but look how cool it looks
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Jan 22, 2019 22:59
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CapnAndy posted:So I'm just starting out (I painted a space marine at PAX Unplugged and enjoyed it so I got some stuff to do more painting) -- I need matte medium to make my own wash from my paints? Matte medium would make your paint thinner in color consistency, but not overall body (it's basically acrylic paint without color). For a wash you would want flow improver (W&N or Liquitex you can get a bunch of cheap) and water, possibly a brush dab of dish soap to act as a surfactant to aid the flow improver. For most washes though it's just easier to buy a ready-made product like GW's Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil or Army Painter's Strong and Dark tone.
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Jan 22, 2019 23:10
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darnon posted:Matte medium would make your paint thinner in color consistency, but not overall body (it's basically acrylic paint without color). For a wash you would want flow improver (W&N or Liquitex you can get a bunch of cheap) and water, possibly a brush dab of dish soap to act as a surfactant to aid the flow improver. For most washes though it's just easier to buy a ready-made product like GW's Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil or Army Painter's Strong and Dark tone.
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Jan 22, 2019 23:17
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You should be able to get Flow Improver at Michael's as well. Pledge Future (or whatever name it's going by this month) can also work as that article mentions and is also useful as a gloss varnish. A regular big box store might have it with their floor care stuff, although I ended up finding mine at the nearest Valu home improvement store albeit a little pricey. The problem with just using matte medium is it doesn't break up the surface tension of the thinned paint so it will still want to stick on flat surfaces instead of settling mostly in the crevices. Notice in the article you linked the librarian they example ends up gray and dirty looking. They do have a flow aid recipe for making washes further down. darnon fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jan 22, 2019 |
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Jan 22, 2019 23:30
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Yeah, a youtube lady just told me the best recipe is (9 parts water:1 part flow aid) to an equal amount of matte medium to make stock, then add ink for pigment. Do regular paints work or does it have to be ink?
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Jan 22, 2019 23:32
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You need an ink, because it does not break down in water, which an acrylic paint will do.
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Jan 22, 2019 23:35
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CapnAndy posted:So what do I do if I want to make some out of stuff I can get at Michael's because any miniatures store is at least a 40 minute drive and I don't feel like paying the markup/waiting for shipping? This guy says 4 parts water, 4 parts matte medium, 1 part paint and no mention of flow improver. You definitely want flow aid for it to behave wash like in addition to the matte medium. Paint is also a poor wash material and ink is highly preferable. I made my own washes for years and kept a pre mixed bottle of about 50% matte medium 50% water with about 10 drops of flow aid in a 1 oz. bottle. However, I strongly encourage you to reconsider and just pay the mark up. Making your own washes is an art in itself. If you're just starting out you'll save yourself a ton of frustration by buying premade.
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Jan 22, 2019 23:40
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CapnAndy posted:Yeah, a youtube lady just told me the best recipe is (9 parts water:1 part flow aid) to an equal amount of matte medium to make stock, then add ink for pigment. Also be aware that certain colors are more susceptible to breaking than others, so a recipe that works for one color might not necessarily work for others. YMMV.
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Jan 22, 2019 23:41
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:However, I strongly encourage you to reconsider and just pay the mark up. Making your own washes is an art in itself. If you're just starting out you'll save yourself a ton of frustration by buying premade.
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Jan 22, 2019 23:51
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CapnAndy posted:Yeah, I'm starting to get that. Is there at least a lesser option to Games Workshop's usual usury? Not that's anywhere near as good
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Jan 22, 2019 23:55
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:However, I strongly encourage you to reconsider and just pay the mark up. Making your own washes is an art in itself. If you're just starting out you'll save yourself a ton of frustration by buying premade. Yeah, when I was starting out I made a lot of washes out of paint and water and I'd say the results were generally "mediocre". Pre-made washes gave me much better results. After painting for a year or so and gaining a much better feel for paint flow/consistency and the like I had much better success making washes. Following a recipe you saw online only gets you so far, at least in my experience. CapnAndy posted:Yeah, I'm starting to get that. Is there at least a lesser option to Games Workshop's usual usury? The Army Painter stuff is pretty popular and noticeably cheaper. That said if you have any local stores that sell GW stuff I'd just get that.
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Jan 22, 2019 23:58
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Paints are just expensive, it’s not really a GW problem. You’re paying for someone else’s perfected wash recipe, and when you try and cut costs you start getting what you paid for. That said, there’s some cheaper washes like the Vallejo game color or army painter stuff, but it’s not gonna behave the same as GW washes.
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Jan 23, 2019 00:04
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The Moon Monster posted:The Army Painter stuff is pretty popular and noticeably cheaper. That said if you have any local stores that sell GW stuff I'd just get that.
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Jan 23, 2019 00:04
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CapnAndy posted:I got dick-all for local stores besides Michael's. Amazon has Army Painter and Games Workshop both on Prime, though, so the only question is if GW is worth the extra $7 given that it's got three shades less. The gw washes are better, washes in pots instead of droppers are way easier to use, and you will probably never use the extra three shades.
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Jan 23, 2019 00:06
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What's the difference between an acrylic paint and an ink? If acrylic and oil paints are defined by their binders, are inks as well?
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Jan 23, 2019 00:24
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