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Looks like the rivets got ripped out. Can you get the body panel off and access to the back of the holes? A dirty fix could be as easy as putting a backing plate (or maybe some oversize/fender washers) on the back side and just bolting it together. If not, another easy fix would be to weld it on. But you don't have experience and I don't know if the material is too thin to weld. A proper fix would be cutting away that part of the hatch and welding in a new piece and repainting, which sounds more and more expensive as I type. If you can't do it yourself, cheapest bet would be finding some small garage and seeing what they'd do to get it to just work. Might not look pretty, but you should be able to fix it relatively easily.
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Jan 22, 2019 13:40
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Apologies if there's a better thread for this. I'm renovating my house and bizarrely came across a stash of windshields for various classic cars, mostly rear glass though. Some of them were labeled but many were not. Here's an album of them: https://imgur.com/gallery/VyweGj6 I've labeled the ones that had labels. I think there's one missing from this as well which was a 68 Cougar rear glass. Multiple people have told me that I should try to sell these for money. Anyone have any resources that could help me put some values on them? Ideally I'd like to just sell the lot of them and be done with it.
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Jan 22, 2019 19:51
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I don't have an answer for you, but, like, you just found them? I'm curious about the back story.
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Jan 22, 2019 20:05
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Uthor posted:I don't have an answer for you, but, like, you just found them? I'm curious about the back story. Pretty much. The house I just bought this summer had a sun room whose bottom was completely boarded up. I had a cursory look under there and at first I thought they were just old plywood or OSB or something because I couldn't see very well. When we finally started tearing down the sun room we discovered that it was a big stack of windshields. They were very, very dirty at first so I assume they've been there a long time, probably at least 10 years. The original owner is long gone for sure.
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Jan 22, 2019 20:10
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single-mode fiber posted:drat, was hoping for something a little a little less invasive if it turned out to need replacement, but thanks. On the off chance anyone was curious how it could be that the car's position would affect whether or not it could maintain idle after a cold start, today I found out. Two problems working in concert with one another, motor mounts that were extremely worn, and a rip in the duct for the cold air intake, past the mass airflow filter and sensor. The rip let unfiltered, unregulated air get sucked straight into the throttle body, which threw off the fuel-air mixture. Because of the condition of the motor mounts, it let the engine move around too much, such that when facing downhill or tilted to the passenger side, it tugged on the air intake, causing the aperture of the rip to widen and shrink when in different positions.
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Jan 23, 2019 02:25
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leftist heap posted:Apologies if there's a better thread for this. I'm renovating my house and bizarrely came across a stash of windshields for various classic cars, mostly rear glass though. Some of them were labeled but many were not. Here's an album of them: That is bizarre as all hell, but pretty rad too.
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Jan 23, 2019 02:41
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2018 VW GTI SE  noticed this on the rear bumper after taking it through a car wash. i am unsure if the damage is from that or from something that hit it during a recent storm. either way, i would like to fix it. would picking up some touch-up paint work OK? it's pretty clearly through to the plastic/whatever is under the paint.
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Jan 23, 2019 03:07
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That is probably from loading and unloading poo poo from your trunk. Let this be a lesson for having a piece of clear bra put there, but yeah, touch-up paint. 
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Jan 23, 2019 03:19
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PaintVagrant posted:Clutch in, shift into second, then into first. Does it seem to slide in easier? Yeah, I think this has helped. I usually just launch in second because I don't want to hold up traffic or get killed. I haven't had trouble with other gears that I can recall, and shoving it harder doesn't do anything when it doesn't want to go.
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Jan 23, 2019 03:30
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nitsuga posted:Yeah, I think this has helped. I usually just launch in second because I don't want to hold up traffic or get killed. So you can’t physically push the shifter where it needs to go? Will it get into gear if you let the clutch out a little while pushing?
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Jan 23, 2019 04:35
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StormDrain posted:So you can’t physically push the shifter where it needs to go? Will it get into gear if you let the clutch out a little while pushing? It seems like when it’s stuck it just won’t budge. Not into first at least. Sometimes letting the clutch out helps but not all the time. Again, this doesn’t happen all the time, but enough that I’m starting to wonder what’s happening.
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Jan 23, 2019 05:41
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Shaman Linavi posted:2018 VW GTI SE If you are not the only one driving the car, some stern talking to the person unloading things from the back without proper care is in order. It looks like something blue has been unloaded and ripped through the paint in some places. Are the scratches flat or do they have a ridge? If they are flat you can do touch-up and it'll look decent (depending on method and how much time you want to spend). If it's ripped up with edges it'll look bad even with touch-up. If it annoys you too much (sucks on a 2018 ) get it repainted and put a clear bra strip on the area at risk.
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Jan 23, 2019 06:50
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single-mode fiber posted:On the off chance anyone was curious how it could be that the car's position would affect whether or not it could maintain idle after a cold start, today I found out. Two problems working in concert with one another, motor mounts that were extremely worn, and a rip in the duct for the cold air intake, past the mass airflow filter and sensor. The rip let unfiltered, unregulated air get sucked straight into the throttle body, which threw off the fuel-air mixture. Because of the condition of the motor mounts, it let the engine move around too much, such that when facing downhill or tilted to the passenger side, it tugged on the air intake, causing the aperture of the rip to widen and shrink when in different positions. What the gently caress. I would have never figured that out unless I happened to notice the torn intake (and even then, wouldn't have thought of motor mounts). How did you figure that one out?
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Jan 23, 2019 07:56
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To be fair, I didn't figure it out, a mechanic did. There's a nearby hill and I think he just parked it in different ways to reproduce the issue. At some point he must've noticed the rip in the intake (the duct has a ribbed V structure, like an accordion, the rip is in a trough), and then started questioning why it was getting pulled hard enough to make the hole bigger. The geometry of it does make sense, though, on my car the intake is to the driver's side of the engine, so uphill and driver's side tilts cause the engine to push against the intake such that the rip is mostly sealed by the compression of the duct, and downhill/passenger's side tilts pull it away which makes the hole larger. It also would struggle a bit in reverse but never in drive, which would also make sense with the engine sliding around too much.
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Jan 23, 2019 14:57
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I bet that mechanic felt like a loving boss after he nailed that one down. Good for that guy.
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Jan 23, 2019 16:44
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I'm pretty sure new motor mounts fixed a cylinder misfire in my van. I don't know how, but it's just stopped throwing that mystery code 27 in the ~3 weeks since the mounts were done and the engine wasn't flopping around like a fish anymore. 
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Jan 23, 2019 19:02
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I think motor mounts are generally way underestimated as problem makers. Especially on "newer" cars (5-10 years or so). After asking/telling people I was suspecting bad mounts on other forums I generally got a ton of disbelief. 7 years of temperature variations and general engine bay dirt does apparently take quite the toll on mounts. It wouldn't surprise me if modern NVH-reducing mounts are more sensitive as well.
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Jan 23, 2019 20:12
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MrOnBicycle posted:I think motor mounts are generally way underestimated as problem makers. Especially on "newer" cars (5-10 years or so). After asking/telling people I was suspecting bad mounts on other forums I generally got a ton of disbelief. 7 years of temperature variations and general engine bay dirt does apparently take quite the toll on mounts. It wouldn't surprise me if modern NVH-reducing mounts are more sensitive as well. They definitely are. Even on my old WJ the mounts have giant holes cut in them to reduce NVH, so the actual amount of rubber holding the engine in place is remarkably small. My MS3 had at least one fluid-filled mount and when those spring a leak, you not only get an engine flopping everywhere, you also get a loving mess.
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Jan 23, 2019 20:23
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IOwnCalculus posted:They definitely are. Even on my old WJ the mounts have giant holes cut in them to reduce NVH, so the actual amount of rubber holding the engine in place is remarkably small. My MS3 had at least one fluid-filled mount and when those spring a leak, you not only get an engine flopping everywhere, you also get a loving mess. Aren't the non-speed motor mounts fluid filled too? I know a non-turbo 3 of that era needs motor mounts every 40k miles or so.
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Jan 23, 2019 20:28
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I'm pretty sure the one that failed that I made a video of a couple of pages back was fluid filled to begin with. No mess though. Actually look perfectly fine on visual inspection, which probably means that the fluid residue has been washed away ages ago. The replacement one I'm 95% sure, sounds like something liquidy is in there. The gearbox mount is probably fluid filled as well. Hopefully I don't have to replace it as it's harder to get to. The dog-bone one is not fluid filled though. It also seems like there are fewer mounts nowadays. I guess smaller engines so less room, but the small turbo engines produce high torque so must the hard on those mounts.
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Jan 23, 2019 20:31
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Twerk from Home posted:Aren't the non-speed motor mounts fluid filled too? I know a non-turbo 3 of that era needs motor mounts every 40k miles or so. They probably are, but the MS3 was way harder on the mounts and honestly needed firmer ones stock. With the power those things have it literally pulls the engine all over the place on the soft stock mounts. On my MS3 when the passenger mount failed, I replaced it and the rear mount with polyurethane aftermarket mounts, and wished I'd done it when I bought the car.
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Jan 23, 2019 20:36
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Will a gasoline engine consume more oil than otherwise when subjected to lots of cold starts (like well below freezing cold) and short trips where it never reaches operating temperature?
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Jan 23, 2019 20:52
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Invalido posted:Will a gasoline engine consume more oil than otherwise when subjected to lots of cold starts (like well below freezing cold) and short trips where it never reaches operating temperature? Yes, this is one of the worst things you can do to an engine.
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Jan 23, 2019 21:08
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spankmeister posted:Yes, this is one of the worst things you can do to an engine. Oh, I know it's not good, but it's the way the car has been driven lately. It's just that I happened to check the oil today after a few months with lots of this type of driving, and the oil level was lower than I thought proper given how it usually behaves. I was wondering if it's just the temperature abuse that is the cause or something related to a leak or wearing internals. It's a high mileage shitbox (2002 volvo v70, automatic, no turbo) but it's remarkably rust free and has been a Good Car so far.
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Jan 23, 2019 21:28
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spankmeister posted:Yes, this is one of the worst things you can do to an engine. So question, then. If somebody's commute is literally too short to bring the engine up to temp, how do you remediate that? My mom has already beaten a battery to death by driving less than a mile each way 5 days a week.
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Jan 23, 2019 22:03
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Javid posted:So question, then. If somebody's commute is literally too short to bring the engine up to temp, how do you remediate that? My mom has already beaten a battery to death by driving less than a mile each way 5 days a week. Not much you can do besides flog it once a week or so.
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Jan 23, 2019 22:04
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C-Bangin' it 
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Javid posted:So question, then. If somebody's commute is literally too short to bring the engine up to temp, how do you remediate that? My mom has already beaten a battery to death by driving less than a mile each way 5 days a week. Use a bicycle.
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Jan 23, 2019 22:47
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spankmeister posted:Use a bicycle. Under a mile id recommend walking! Or a scooter.
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Jan 23, 2019 22:52
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BlackMK4 posted:That is probably from loading and unloading poo poo from your trunk. Let this be a lesson for having a piece of clear bra put there, but yeah, touch-up paint. MrOnBicycle posted:If you are not the only one driving the car, some stern talking to the person unloading things from the back without proper care is in order. It looks like something blue has been unloaded and ripped through the paint in some places. Are the scratches flat or do they have a ridge? If they are flat you can do touch-up and it'll look decent (depending on method and how much time you want to spend). If it's ripped up with edges it'll look bad even with touch-up. If it annoys you too much (sucks on a 2018 Thank you for the suggestions. I am indeed the only person that uses the car. The only thing that comes to mind as far as loading/unloading mishaps is I might have slid a blue plastic container into the back at one point. The scratch pattern doesn't really match the container but who knows. I have some kind of paint protection warranty (which i forgot about) that I'm going to talk to the dealer about and then probably end up going with touch-up + bra when this isn't covered. At least I got that first scratch out of the way!
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Jan 24, 2019 01:44
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OK, my 67 year old mother isn't walking to work in the 3 months a year where we just get constant pouring rain, thanks for reminding me I have to spell these things out in small words I guess
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Jan 24, 2019 04:32
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Javid posted:OK, my 67 year old mother isn't walking to work in the 3 months a year where we just get constant pouring rain, thanks for reminding me I have to spell these things out in small words I guess Oh is she too frail to hold an umbrella?
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Jan 24, 2019 04:34
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I would recommend just making sure it's driven further once or twice a week, or at least let the thing warm up some of the time. Does she not run errands that would get the engine up to temp? Honestly I think your mother is the ideal person for an electric vehicle since short trips are a complete non-issue with them. Won't even have to charge it for a few weeks at a time if it's used that lightly.
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Jan 24, 2019 06:19
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I'll definitely push her that way when she inevitably decides it's "too old and nickel diming me to death" because the alternator went out or something. This is definitely a human problem, because she has no concept of combining trips, so every errand is drive there, drive home, move to next errand, so she flogs it with a zillion little trips instead of one or two big ones a day. How that car has survived 17 years is amazing to me.
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Jan 24, 2019 06:34
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Javid posted:I'll definitely push her that way when she inevitably decides it's "too old and nickel diming me to death" because the alternator went out or something. Sounds like my 70 year old mother's typical driving, except her work commute actually is long enough to get it good and warm. Once she's off work, she goes home, then every errand is "drive a few blocks, spend an hour buying something, drive back home". She also HATES getting on the highway, and refuses to take it above 3500. So every time I drive it, I make sure to flog it pretty good. Not only does it clear up its smoking habit for a couple of months, but the dash computer shows that I'm actually bringing the average MPG up by 1-2 mpg with an hour or two of me driving it like I stole it. I keep telling her to just give me the drat car if she thinks it's nickle and diming her (it kind of is, but it has almost 180k... and 99% of what it's needed is easy to moderate DIY stuff, I'm just not local anymore). The private party value is all of $3k, trade-in on it is mayyyybe $1500. I'm sure I could get another 180k out of it with minimal work, I'm just about 30 years too young to be seen driving it.  MrOnBicycle posted:I think motor mounts are generally way underestimated as problem makers. Especially on "newer" cars (5-10 years or so). After asking/telling people I was suspecting bad mounts on other forums I generally got a ton of disbelief. 7 years of temperature variations and general engine bay dirt does apparently take quite the toll on mounts. It wouldn't surprise me if modern NVH-reducing mounts are more sensitive as well. GF: "I don't know why my car vibrates so bad! It's driving me nuts!" Me: "It's your motor mounts." GF: "NO IT'S NOT. I ONLY HAVE 87K, I'VE NEVER HAD TO REPLACE THEM ON A CAR BEFORE!!111!11!!11!" Me: "It's also a 14 year old car that's spent its entire life in Texas heat." *pops hood, watches engine flop around like a fish out of water when revved, listens to loud BANG of engine slamming into mounts when she puts it in reverse and eases the clutch out* See? GF: "IT'S ALWAYS DONE THAT, BESIDES IT'S A TOYOTA, THEY NEVER WEAR OUT" me: So tell me why it needed a clutch at 85k again? 
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Jan 24, 2019 07:03
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STR posted:Sounds like my 70 year old mother's typical driving, except her work commute actually is long enough to get it good and warm. Once she's off work, she goes home, then every errand is "drive a few blocks, spend an hour buying something, drive back home". This is why I really don't get the "car driven by old man/woman" thing in ads. You are telling me this is a good thing? Maybe maintenance-vise, but the car is probably going to be running like poo poo. STR posted:GF: "I don't know why my car vibrates so bad! It's driving me nuts!" Yeah lol "Why would you think you need to replace your mounts (you idiot)?". I think the mounts sneak up on you until you suddenly think "wtf is all this poo poo going on" and think something suddenly failed. In my case there isn't that much vibration, but more clonks when coming off load. People who have changed the mount in question report a night and day difference to comfort so that's nice. One dude had the mount fail at 62k miles, but the car (like mine) is a 2011, so the heat cycles from 7 cold winters and 7 warm summers is probably way too much to handle. I did change the dog-bone one and got a modification done and everything was perfect for a day or so, then it all returned. I think fitting a new dog-bone mount and make it not "slip" was the killing blow to the side engine mount that I'm swapping. The good thing is that Alfa Romeo apparently very recently redesigned the mount. It looks like they basically took the mount from the top of the range engine and made it fit my engine. Hopefully logic dictates that a mount made to handle ~65hp and ~90nm of torque more should have better durability and better comfort. I think that this experience has taught me that if I ever buy an older car I'm either taking all the mounts out and check them, or if they are cheap I'll just replace the lot. Can't be good for the drive-train to be subjected to all those vibrations and misalignment. VVV: Windo Weld sounds amazing for tons of thing. I can't find the drat thing for sale in my country / Europe with shipping.
MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Jan 24, 2019 |
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Jan 24, 2019 07:58
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This convo reminds me, I need to fill my motor mounts with Windo Weld.
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Jan 24, 2019 08:03
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MrOnBicycle posted:This is why I really don't get the "car driven by old man/woman" thing in ads. You are telling me this is a good thing? Maybe maintenance-vise, but the car is probably going to be running like poo poo. In mom's defense, she bought it brand new in 2002, when she was in her 50s. More middle aged than elderly for much of her ownership. And she did a lot more highway driving back then. Oddly, she's a much more aggressive driver now (enough that I'm the one grabbing the oh-poo poo handle when I ride with her) - she's had two speeding tickets in the past 2 years, while I've managed 14 years without a ticket* (not counting a parking ticket or red light camera ticket, but those get issued to the car....). It's been maintained pretty well. Not perfectly, but I've done a huge chunk of the maintenance and repairs on it myself; the bulk of other work was either stealership-done, or done by a mechanic that I've known for almost 22 years, so I know every part on it has been OEM. And before I get probated for saying stealership.. the dealer talked her into a timing belt and spark plugs at <70k, on a car that calls for them at 110k (and left it pissing oil afterwards). They also sold her a ~$3500 complete evap system (gutted from gas tank to engine) for "evap leak detected (small)", only to have the same code come back about a year later (the return was caused by a shitload of dry rotted vacuum lines under the engine cover). When she got the timing belt and plugs done again recently, the 22-year mechanic that I trust found a very well aged socket under one of the valve covers; coincidentally, the random ticking at idle went away afterwards (he mentioned it looked like it'd been getting smacked around). And also found what he thought were the original spark plugs in the engine. They sold her fully loaded top of the line car out from under her, and tried to give her a base model and convince her it was the exact same car the next day when she went to take delivery (it wasn't even the same color). Finally, when a door handle broke, they quoted her $900 to replace it, and said they'd have to repaint the entire door. I went to the same dealer and ordered a new handle, already painted, for $100 the next day, and installed it in about an hour (not a 100% perfect match bc fading, but you only notice if you're looking for it). So yeah, I will forever call that dealer a stealership. </rant> Phew. With that rant out of the way. Mom's is on the original mounts, but it needs new ones soon. It vibrates enough in drive that there's a decent rattle deep inside the dash, but thankfully the 1MZ-FE is a pretty drat smooth engine to begin with. I'm pretty tempted to have her just bring it down here for mounts; it'll be cheaper than Trusted Mechanic if I just rent a bay at the DIY shop I use, plus I'll get to take her out to dinner and show her around my new city. I also want to figure out WTF is going on with the tach and speedo - they've both gotten kinda sticky/jumpy (very noticeable on the tach, speedo seems to be just starting - guessing stepper motors). Don't think it uses CAN BUS for the cluster, the only other electrical issue it's ever had is the ABS light will randomly start strobing/flickering/doing the disco (ABS works fine, no ABS codes stored, been doing this for 5+ years). Friend took his Prius to the same dealer for a new axle (CV joint was clicking), they replaced the drat thing 5 or 6 times over 2 months before they finally looked at the motor mounts and realized they were pretty much gone. It was a 12 year old Prius with nearly 300k on the original mounts.... of course it's going to destroy CV joints when the entire drivetrain is sitting a couple of inches off of where it should be. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Jan 24, 2019 |
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Jan 24, 2019 08:22
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STR posted:In mom's defense, she bought it brand new in 2002, when she was in her 50s. More middle aged than elderly for much of her ownership. And she did a lot more highway driving back then. Oddly, she's a much more aggressive driver now (enough that I'm the one grabbing the oh-poo poo handle when I ride with her) - she's had two speeding tickets in the past 2 years, while I've managed 14 years without a ticket* (not counting a parking ticket or red light camera ticket, but those get issued to the car....). I think it's more than fair to use the term stealership (had no idea that term was probate-able here). I swear the more I read online and the more I understand cars, the less I want some random dude do poo poo on my car. I'm very glad that I seemed to have found an Alfa Romeo specialist closeby that seems to be a good guy (father/son business) that I can fall back on if I'm in over my head. Anything with car repair in Sweden is very expensive. Parts are often >50% more expensive than from Europe (i.e why bother buying from Sweden). I don't want to pry, so don't answer if you don't want to, but is your mother more blunt in her behavior in general now compared to in her 50's? Less of a filter, so to speak.
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Jan 24, 2019 10:05
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My wife and I are planning on doing a 5,000-6,000 mile road trip in the fall. We bought a 18 model year car in July (new). Is it, for any reason, worth it to get a rental car for a long trip, or should we just take our car?
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Jan 24, 2019 16:50
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The Slack Lagoon posted:My wife and I are planning on doing a 5,000-6,000 mile road trip in the fall. We bought a 18 model year car in July (new). Is it, for any reason, worth it to get a rental car for a long trip, or should we just take our car? Why would you not want to take your own car? Not enough room? Bad gas mileage? A rental is just as likely to break down, and you'd be paying through the nose for it. Cars are for driving, not sitting in your garage.
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Jan 24, 2019 17:04
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