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The turn signals use a weird 2.5mm bullet connector where 3.9mm seems to be basically universal. I'm debating refitting the wiring harness with 3.9mm but that makes the bike permanently non-stock....
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Sep 14, 2018 02:19
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Then refit the signals themselves. Replacing crimp connectors isn't exactly rocket science, you'll be able to change them back if you ever need. You could also just make short adaptor cables.
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Sep 14, 2018 03:07
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Jazzzzz posted:Then refit the signals themselves. Replacing crimp connectors isn't exactly rocket science, you'll be able to change them back if you ever need. You could also just make short adaptor cables. Reason I’m waffling is that the 2.5mm are unobtainium and I had an order for them cancelled yesterday. Making adapters is a good idea tho e: that's actually a loving great idea. My problem was that the rare connectors are expensive but I want to try a bunch of different universal turn signals from aliexpress, which is why I was thinking of modding the harness, but that would wreck my ability to return the whole system to stock. Making some adapters will let me get just 1 set of the rare expensive connectors and use them for any aliexpress signals I get. mewse fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Sep 14, 2018 |
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Sep 14, 2018 03:15
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I assume you've found http://www.cycleterminal.com/motorcycle-connectors.html right? My Hondas use non-standard bullets too, but at least they're consistently non-standard, so I bought a bag of 50 and I can use them anywhere on both bikes.
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Sep 16, 2018 02:14
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Sagebrush posted:I assume you've found http://www.cycleterminal.com/motorcycle-connectors.html right? I didn’t see this before but it says no stock for the 2.5mm Kawasaki turn signal connectors
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Sep 16, 2018 03:48
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I don't know if he ships outside the EU (although I can't imagine he couldn't be coaxed to drop a few grams of metal into an airmail jiffy bag), but Kojaycat appears to have what you need. If he won't then just let me know, I'd be happy to order a bunch and ship them on to you if you'd like.
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Sep 16, 2018 08:58
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Renaissance Robot posted:I don't know if he ships outside the EU (although I can't imagine he couldn't be coaxed to drop a few grams of metal into an airmail jiffy bag), but Kojaycat appears to have what you need. This is where I put in an order. My wallet burst into flames afterwards
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Sep 16, 2018 17:49
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Well, poo poo. Sorry dude 
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Sep 16, 2018 18:13
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It's fine, I've spent money on stupider things for this bike but a lot of it is tools that I will use forever.
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Sep 16, 2018 18:37
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Oct 3, 2018 23:21
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Now you have more time to get everything together. Or rush the hell out of it because in 3 weeks there'll be a small window where everything will be perfect and in the mid-60's for 4 or 5 days. (maybe)
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Oct 4, 2018 03:49
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Plan is to get it done before next riding season in loving May or whatever I never got the right front fairing painted, I filled a void in it with epoxy and it needs some significant sanding to get it prepped. It's too cold for the paint to cure now. If we get that last heat wave you're talking about I might paint. The new brake lines don't have fluid in them yet, I'm waiting for a vacuum tool to show up. Last big job is still the front forks. I ordered a new chrome tube to replace the pitted one, hasn't shown up yet.
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Oct 4, 2018 04:01
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Or... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OLZu7JCOQGA
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Oct 4, 2018 12:07
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Spent about an hour sanding down the right front fairing. I got my epoxy job flush with the plastic which is nice, but the existing paint is even worse than I thought. When it was on the bike it was bubbling up so clearly they didn't do it right, but sanding it down I'm seeing white then glossy black then grey and then the original white, then the bare plastic. The black seems like some kinda gel primer or something? Whatever it is hosed up the whole fairing so I'm basically taking it down to bare plastic on the entire surface. I also found body filler around the turn signal damage. Still not finished sanding - my hand started going numb and when the disc flew off my rotary sander I decided to stop. There's a couple more surfaces to sand down then I'm going to go over it with 220 to smooth it, then it will be ready for paint.
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Oct 7, 2018 22:27
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I started on the forks today after reading a bit more and someone wrote that doing fork seals isn't as hard as doing a valve adjustment. That gave me some confidence. I was wondering about getting some metric bits for my impact driver -- apparently the bottom bolt is a lot easier if you use an impact because it will basically prevent the damper rod rotating in the assembly. There was a set of bits for $45 listed at princess auto. Luckily I didn't seem to need them on the one fork I took apart. I've got some t-handle hex keys that worked well on the bottom bolt and also the handlebar risers, those were on pretty tight. What I do need is a 2 jaw puller to press down the cap so I can remove the wire clip on the inside of the tube.
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Oct 29, 2018 01:55
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You really don't, just push down on it with an extension or something and flick the clip out. The springs are a lot softer than you think, once you break through the rust seal they come down pretty easy.
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Oct 29, 2018 02:51
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I much prefer forks to valves. Be prepared for things to get messy though. Have rags ready and put newspaper down and use your oil drain pan below where you work. I bought these 2 years ago and have found them to be indispensable: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10076A-8-Inch-Metric-Socket/dp/B000IQNMQU?keywords=allen+socket&qid=1540826799&sr=8-22&ref=sr_1_22 You can get shorter ones too but for forks you'll need the long ones. They're cheap but they've held up well. Out of the dozen or so sets of forks I've disassembled only two required the impact, and they were from the same set. A previous owner either locktite'd them or torqued them too hard; don't do this. Most of the time you just put the fork in a vise and get a nice CRACK as the bolt breaks torque and then it backs out easily. mewse posted:Still not finished sanding - my hand started going numb and when the disc flew off my rotary sander I decided to stop. There's a couple more surfaces to sand down then I'm going to go over it with 220 to smooth it, then it will be ready for paint. Go up to 400 or 600 then primer. 220 scratches can show through paint.
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Oct 29, 2018 16:42
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Slavvy posted:You really don't, just push down on it with an extension or something and flick the clip out. The springs are a lot softer than you think, once you break through the rust seal they come down pretty easy. It needs a LOT of force to push down so it's like one of those situations where it feels like you need 3 hands. The puller is cheap and will let me screw around with the dental pick trying to pull the ring. As it was, it felt like I was going to bend something and got frustrating very quickly. I have actual snap rings on order but from china so who knows when they will show up. Gorson posted:I much prefer forks to valves. Be prepared for things to get messy though. Have rags ready and put newspaper down and use your oil drain pan below where you work. I bought these 2 years ago and have found them to be indispensable: I think I'm good with these hex keys:  They were able to crack the handlebar riser bolts and the fork bolt. quote:Go up to 400 or 600 then primer. 220 scratches can show through paint. Will do, good point
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Oct 29, 2018 17:24
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The T handle ones are great until you run up against something like a shock bolt that's been torqued to 45lbs. Unless you look like Terry Crews anything over about 15lbs or so is going to need a bit of leverage, which is probably why the handlebar bolts were tricky.
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Oct 29, 2018 21:53
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Just put a crescent wrench on it for some additional leverage.
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Oct 29, 2018 22:03
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Puller trick worked great, it let me work two dental picks to get the wire hoops out. It’s cold and dark out so I’m leaving it this for now e: oh god everything looks dirty because i was sanding the fairing mewse fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Oct 30, 2018 |
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Oct 29, 2018 23:48
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You loosened the pinch bolts on the yoke, right?
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Oct 30, 2018 02:12
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:You loosened the pinch bolts on the yoke, right? I re-tightened the top yoke for the puller to have something to clamp on to
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Oct 30, 2018 02:29
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After lots of grunting and swearing I got the old fork seals out
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Nov 2, 2018 15:00
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Got new fork seals and dust covers in yesterday. Ruined a new fork seal in haste when I thought it was in upside-down, but I had extras. Haven't reassembled the forks yet. I have a day off work on Thursday and was fantasizing about taking the bike for a safety inspection but it's going to be -8 celsius (~18F) soo.. next spring it is.
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Nov 5, 2018 17:03
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Finished the forks and reassembled everything. The front fender is rubbing the tire. It's attached with 4 bolts and one is missing, I have some on order so when they show up I'll disassemble/reassemble and try to get it so it's not rubbing. Only stuff I really have left is filling brake fluid and painting front right fairing so it should be ready to ride in the spring..
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Nov 12, 2018 20:54
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Took a glamour shot to see how the painted fairings look.. pretty dang good IMHO Can’t wait for spring time to finish things up and get it in the road
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Nov 26, 2018 01:53
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that looks sexy af
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Nov 26, 2018 05:20
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Did you set the fluid level on the forks with them level to ground? Not sure if thats a requirement for you but it was on my 96 cbr edit: love it!
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Nov 26, 2018 16:04
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interwhat posted:Did you set the fluid level on the forks with them level to ground? Not sure if thats a requirement for you but it was on my 96 cbr I used a measuring cup for 200ml per fork rather than try measuring the level. It might be all wrong, seems pretty stiff, but I'll see in the spring.
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Nov 26, 2018 16:19
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mewse posted:Took a glamour shot to see how the painted fairings look.. pretty dang good IMHO Super-clean!
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Nov 27, 2018 20:57
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Hi, I hate winter After risking death by heart attack shoveling my driveway, I got a chance to bolt in the new stainless hardware I ordered for the front fender. After torquing them down, the tire was still rubbing the fender which was disappointing but then I ratcheted down the axle, which pinched the fender and flared both ends a little bit, basically no more rub. Very satisfying. But what I really wanted to post is that I was looking at the neck badge and I think my bike is actually an 86:   The 87 was the EX250E2 so combined with the 10/86 marking I think I can reclassify my bike with the insurance company, which I was kinda looking into anyway because there are two listings in their computer for Ninja 250 and the difference is a couple hundred bucks per year.
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Dec 23, 2018 23:46
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The door to my workshop (is in previous post, behind my car) is now obstructed by snow and I don't think I'm going to dig it out this time. I don't know what the grace period is before a thread goes to archives so I figured I'd maek the postes
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Jan 23, 2019 01:50
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I'm still watching
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Jan 25, 2019 19:55
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Starting to get excited for spring in a couple months. I think I can get it safetied in its current state, just need to paint 1 more fairing and refill brake fluid. Was just reading this article about 250 upgrades and now I kinda want a high flow air filter and slip on mufflers, can definitely wait tho.
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Mar 1, 2019 19:13
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I thought you could only get full system exhausts for the older ninjette? Or are you thinking of swapping in a 2:1 from 2009?
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Mar 1, 2019 19:35
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I meant like keeping the pipes and swapping the muffers for slip-ons? Or is all the benefit in having a larger pipe?
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Mar 1, 2019 19:47
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Nah I just mean I thought you couldn't do slip-ons for this model year on account of how the mufflers are welded on to the pipes.
Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Mar 1, 2019 |
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Mar 1, 2019 20:34
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You can always do slip-ons, sometimes you just need an angle grinder to do it.
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Mar 1, 2019 20:46
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Renaissance Robot posted:Nah I just mean I thought you couldn't do slip-ons for this model year on account of how the mufflers are welded on to the pipes. Oh, I think they're clamped not welded, but haven't disassembled to find out. This ebay auction looks like it matches my mufflers and shows where the clamp is. 
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Mar 1, 2019 20:55
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