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FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Mercury Ballistic posted:

Anything better than great stuff foam to seal a window frame with? I am having a porch built, and the old window trim is off and I can see the back of the drywall from outside. I was gonna foam it with the low expansion foam, but wanted to make sure that was the smart move.



I don't know the answer, but they do make a variety specific for window and door frames.

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B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Mercury Ballistic posted:

Anything better than great stuff foam to seal a window frame with? I am having a porch built, and the old window trim is off and I can see the back of the drywall from outside. I was gonna foam it with the low expansion foam, but wanted to make sure that was the smart move.

Nope, the Great Stuff blue can is the best thing to use.

If you've never done this before, be sure to follow the directions, and don't overfill. In theory, that variety of foam can be smushed back into the gap if you overfill and it mushrooms out, but in reality, it will stain most surfaces it touches (e.g. siding) and/or be a pain to get off.

Mercury Ballistic
Nov 14, 2005

not gun related
I have reclaimed brick veneer and block, so I don't care too much about the bricks as they all look different anyway. I was just afraid of cracking or deforming the window frame.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

B-Nasty posted:

Nope, the Great Stuff blue can is the best thing to use.

If you've never done this before, be sure to follow the directions, and don't overfill. In theory, that variety of foam can be smushed back into the gap if you overfill and it mushrooms out, but in reality, it will stain most surfaces it touches (e.g. siding) and/or be a pain to get off.

Keep a bottle of acetone and a rag nearby. It wipes (mostly) clean if you you hit it with acetone before the reaction goes to completion.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
You'll spray it and see it expanding and think you know how much it will expand. You'll be wrong, it expands a lot.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

It keeps expanding up until it finishes curing.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Also, the PPI for this is not a joke. Anything you get it on it's there until you sand off whatever it bonded to - this includes your skin, eyes, etc. Wear safety glasses, nitrile gloves, and a long sleeve work shirt, put down a drop cloth if you're working over something like carpet/wood/vinyl, that sort of thing.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
Also, once it's completely cured, it cuts easily with a razor blade just like other foam would. So if it expands out somewhere you need to put a board, you can cut it back again once dry. Often that's easier than trying to fight it while it's still sticky.

Goober Peas
Jun 30, 2007

Check out my 'Vette, bro


I purchased a condo last spring and it has hardwood floors that are about 15 years old. The floors look dull and streaky. I've been cleaning with Bona products, and the floors don't look any better. I see every bare footprint and shoe tread before and after cleaning. Any suggestions on the best way to bring back the shine and hide the foot traffic?

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

Goober Peas posted:

I purchased a condo last spring and it has hardwood floors that are about 15 years old. The floors look dull and streaky. I've been cleaning with Bona products, and the floors don't look any better. I see every bare footprint and shoe tread before and after cleaning. Any suggestions on the best way to bring back the shine and hide the foot traffic?

Put a basket of slippers by your door.

Dagen H
Mar 19, 2009

Hogertrafikomlaggningen
I'm planning on painting my kitchen cabinets. Spraying is not an option. Bristle brush, foam brush, roller, or ??? I'm going to use self-levelling trim paint, unless there's a better option.

Mercury Ballistic
Nov 14, 2005

not gun related
Thanks for the tips. Foam is in, none on hair, skin, eyes, or floor.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Dagen H posted:

I'm planning on painting my kitchen cabinets. Spraying is not an option. Bristle brush, foam brush, roller, or ??? I'm going to use self-levelling trim paint, unless there's a better option.

Like all paint jobs, good results is all about preparation. Kitchen cabinets have one extra step though. Scrub down your cabinets first to get off all of the atomized grease and other nastiness. Next, take off all the hardware and paint the doors separate. Tape off the walls, soffit, floor, walls and appliances.

Finally, use a roller for the big areas, brush for the detailed areas. Use a smaller roller to not fling as many drops off the ends.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Jan 26, 2019

Dagen H
Mar 19, 2009

Hogertrafikomlaggningen
I was already ahead of you re: nasty kitchen grease, but A) I'm not sure what sort of degreaser to use that's safe for wood, and B) might as well scuff the existing finish while scrubbing, would grey Scotch-Brite be adequate?

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
TSP is what I've used for painting prep, should work okay in kitchens. Failing that, Simple Green?

stupid puma
Apr 25, 2005

Also buy the best paint you you can get your hands on (Ben Moore Aura is my go-to now - don’t trust the Behr line at HD for a job like this) and maybe add a little Floetrol to it.

there wolf
Jan 11, 2015

by Fluffdaddy
Anyone ever taken out kitchen cabinets that are glued in? Is there a way to do it that isn't just a sledgehammer?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I have a large two-story interior wall in my living room. Along the entire width of the wall between the first and second floors the drywall is all screwed up. There's also a big section about a foot wide going vertically from the second floor up to the top of the ceiling that is also screwed up.

I know that in the past the ductwork had been replaced. It looks to me that they cut these sections of drywall out to have access to replace the ducts. The problem is that when they put the drywall back they did a very poor job taping and mudding.

I have some drywall experience and I'm confident my work, but I've never done anything on this scale. I don't know if it's worth cutting it all out and redoing it, or just putting more joint compound on top and evening it all out. Is it possible or reasonable to sand through the paint sand down the old work so I can redo it?



Edit - I'm not entirely sure that something isn't just wrong with the framing.

FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Jan 26, 2019

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

there wolf posted:

Anyone ever taken out kitchen cabinets that are glued in? Is there a way to do it that isn't just a sledgehammer?

Crowbar.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Just decided to get after it. Lots of strange gouges and poorly filled nail holes. None of the other walls in my house are this crazy. I should probably just install a new wall or tear down the house and rebuild.

Brute Squad
Dec 20, 2006

Laughter is the sun that drives winter from the human race

I've got some chunks from an 80ish year old old brick wall that I want to break down into individual souvenir bricks. Right now I'm leaning towards a masonry blade in my corded circular saw to break them up and some dilute muriatic acid and some cold chisels to clean off the last of the mortar. Anything I'm missing?

poisonpill
Nov 8, 2009

The only way to get huge fast is to insult a passing witch and hope she curses you with Beast-strength.


This is just a call for a general article or maybe a top ten: when it comes to bathroom and kitchen redesign, what are the things you totally can do yourself, and what should you absolutely hire professionals to do for you?

I.e. can I just buy like the tub and sinks and put them in, or should I just do the cabinets? Or nothing? Assume I’ve got tools but no training.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

There are hundreds of equally good Youtube walkthroughs for replacing all of the things in your house so you could start by watching some of those and then deciding if the process looks hairy to you or not.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

poisonpill posted:

This is just a call for a general article or maybe a top ten: when it comes to bathroom and kitchen redesign, what are the things you totally can do yourself, and what should you absolutely hire professionals to do for you?

I.e. can I just buy like the tub and sinks and put them in, or should I just do the cabinets? Or nothing? Assume I’ve got tools but no training.

How much time do you have? How many hours at a stretch can you work on average? How long can you go without the room working? How often when doing a project do you get really annoyed and throw a tool across the room?

Skills can be learned, but what takes a plumber a day will take you a week and 10 trips to home depot. Time is the true enemy of the DIY project.

there wolf
Jan 11, 2015

by Fluffdaddy

Yes but, Ideally I only want to remove part of the cabinet. I guess the real question is there a good way to cut a cabinet when it's still attached to the wall?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

there wolf posted:

Yes but, Ideally I only want to remove part of the cabinet. I guess the real question is there a good way to cut a cabinet when it's still attached to the wall?

Oscillating tool? Sawzall?

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



FogHelmut posted:

Just decided to get after it. Lots of strange gouges and poorly filled nail holes. None of the other walls in my house are this crazy. I should probably just install a new wall or tear down the house and rebuild.



Some of those look awfully thick. Is that well textured?

stupid puma
Apr 25, 2005

With regard to homeowner remodel, a lot will depend on how old the house is that you’re working on and whether you are changing anything structurally. Generally, I’d say plan on hiring out the rough in plumbing and maybe electrical, depending on how much you are changing around. Sheetrock and muddling, tiling, vanity install, plumbing fixtures, maybe cabinet install depending on scope, are all things you can learn and are very doable by a homeowner if you have some time. Building a shower is doable (waterproofing, pan install) but I wouldn’t recommend it. Same with tub install.

poisonpill
Nov 8, 2009

The only way to get huge fast is to insult a passing witch and hope she curses you with Beast-strength.


All good answers, thanks. The consensus is seeing is plumbing and electrical are for professionals. But Sheetrock, tiles and vanity are doable, which is actually just about the split I was imagining. I wouldn’t want to do a tub after seeing that dude Slice through his support beams. I’ve done fixtures but it took forever and felt like a hack job, which is not what I’m going for. Would I be able to set up a sink and vanity, then call a professional to install the fixtures? That isn’t seen as rude, presumptuous, or stupid, right?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

big crush on Chad OMG posted:

Some of those look awfully thick. Is that well textured?

Yeah, whole house is orange peel. Everything around here was built that way. I have to go back over and even it out, then come back again later with the texture spray and blend it.

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010

Fun Shoe
I knew a guy who built a whole house while working and raising a family, took him thirty years and relied heavily on agricultural exemptions

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

poisonpill posted:

All good answers, thanks. The consensus is seeing is plumbing and electrical are for professionals. But Sheetrock, tiles and vanity are doable, which is actually just about the split I was imagining. I wouldn’t want to do a tub after seeing that dude Slice through his support beams. I’ve done fixtures but it took forever and felt like a hack job, which is not what I’m going for. Would I be able to set up a sink and vanity, then call a professional to install the fixtures? That isn’t seen as rude, presumptuous, or stupid, right?


You're kind of looking for black and white answers to something that is a spectrum of answers based on the type of person, time, income, and attitude. Plumbing and electrical aren't necessary for professionals, but you should do some research and understand what it is you are doing before approaching those jobs as they have much more dire consequences then putting up an ugly drywall job.

Tubs aren't necessarily difficult assuming you don't saw through the support of your floor in the name of female conquest.

Given your posts though it doesn't seem like you'd really want to pursue electrical / plumbing, and that's fine. Curious about what exactly you messed up about fixtures, to the point where you are cool doing the heavier load. Unless you mean the lines for them as well?

The smaller the job gets the harder it will be to find someone that will spend their time doing it, and the cost you will pay will inflate. You'll want to look for a "handyman" more so than a "contractor" as they are supposed to be more of a small jobs specialist, though in my experience is where you find lower quality and shadier people.

stupid puma
Apr 25, 2005

If you’re hiring out the plumbing rough in i think it’s usually a pretty trivial additional amount for the plumber to come back out for an hour to set fixtures later on. Agreed that if you are hiring it out separately that you’re probably going to end up paying a premium for a licensed plumber or taking a gamble on a sketchy handyman.

That being said, setting fixtures is definitely one of the areas I’d suggest doing on your own. Usually the directions are clearly printed and it’s just a matter going through the steps. Pretty hard to gently caress up. Setting a tub can probably be bundled into that category too, though the reason I would hire it out personally is because if you’re going with cast iron it’s a horribly heavy bitch to get into your bathroom and either way you are connecting plumbing that will likely be buried in a wall or ceiling and personally I don’t trust my plumbing abilities that well, but that’s just me. I’m not an expert, but I’m currently on my 3rd remodel of a 50s bathroom in the past 5 years so I do have some context.

poisonpill
Nov 8, 2009

The only way to get huge fast is to insult a passing witch and hope she curses you with Beast-strength.


The Dave posted:

Curious about what exactly you messed up about fixtures, to the point where you are cool doing the heavier load. Unless you mean the lines for them as well?

I put in new sinks, showerheads and faucets in my last house, and it took several days where a plumber would've been maybe one day. Real miserable work. In the end it all worked perfectly but the experience was hell. Maybe doing it while replacing the tub and sink would make it easier.

Electrical I've also done before but I don't know if I'm comfortable doing my own work now that I have a sense of my own mortality.

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

stupid puma posted:

If you’re hiring out the plumbing rough in i think it’s usually a pretty trivial additional amount for the plumber to come back out for an hour to set fixtures later on. Agreed that if you are hiring it out separately that you’re probably going to end up paying a premium for a licensed plumber or taking a gamble on a sketchy handyman.

That being said, setting fixtures is definitely one of the areas I’d suggest doing on your own. Usually the directions are clearly printed and it’s just a matter going through the steps. Pretty hard to gently caress up. Setting a tub can probably be bundled into that category too, though the reason I would hire it out personally is because if you’re going with cast iron it’s a horribly heavy bitch to get into your bathroom and either way you are connecting plumbing that will likely be buried in a wall or ceiling and personally I don’t trust my plumbing abilities that well, but that’s just me. I’m not an expert, but I’m currently on my 3rd remodel of a 50s bathroom in the past 5 years so I do have some context.

Word of caution: cheap fixtures, like they sell at box stores, often have plastic internal parts that are super easy to break if you’re not careful or don’t know what you’re doing. Its worth shelling out for higher quality fixtures from a real plumbing store, especially if you’re installing yourself.

Goober Peas
Jun 30, 2007

Check out my 'Vette, bro


Floor chat:

I found that Bona has a hot line. I sent a couple of pictures and learned that hardwood floors need polish.

I spent all day polishing and the floors look 100% better.

Remodel chat:

I normally DIY as much as possible, but this condo had a ton of previous owner DIY that was done poorly. The price I bought in at reflected this and I'm about $15k in repairs to get things back up to a level where I'm comfortable maintaining things myself.

The amount of mud and sand the painters had to do to get the walls and ceilings to a point where they didn't have drips, runs, splotches was worth every dollar I paid them. The old carpets were like matted dog fur, see above for hardwood floor condition. Cabinets were painted DIY with latex and no poly - I spent my Christmas vacation stripping and redoing correctly. Appliances were shot. Plumbing to the fixtures were done incorrectly.

There was no way I was going to undo his mess DIY.

Ultimate Shrek Fan
May 2, 2005

by FactsAreUseless
Anyone have a truck mounted snow plow? I'd like to make my own, I just have no idea what the frame mount looks like and that can be a problem.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Ultimate Shrek Fan posted:

Anyone have a truck mounted snow plow? I'd like to make my own, I just have no idea what the frame mount looks like and that can be a problem.

Yeah, this is a bad idea. Especially coming from a place where you don't know what one looks like.

Are you talking about making a plow frame? Or the entire frame and plow?

Ultimate Shrek Fan
May 2, 2005

by FactsAreUseless

Motronic posted:

Yeah, this is a bad idea. Especially coming from a place where you don't know what one looks like.

Are you talking about making a plow frame? Or the entire frame and plow?

im making the entire plow, i just need to see how the plow mount attaches to the frame. and it's absolutely a good idea, as i fabricate poo poo for a living, dingus.

Ultimate Shrek Fan fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Jan 28, 2019

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Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Is there a spray foam product that will fill in between two studs? I have a very small section of wall that faces the exterior and sends a cold draft through one of my cabinets.

The only DIY kits I can find are like $400+ and meant for doing a whole house. I’m tempted to just dump a few cans of Great Stuff in there but I doubt it’d cure properly.

Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Jan 28, 2019

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