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I have an apartment with the following three wires coming from the ceiling: Number of conductors "3" with PE -  There are two of these wire sets coming from the ceiling so I installed a 2 x bulb sockets. One of the fixtures works perfectly fine but the other one is a little finicky. Sometimes when I wake up in the morning or I come back from work, the light doesn't turn on. It doesn't always happen and it's quite random when it does but it's been happening since I installed it a few weeks ago. I replaced the bulb socket with a new one and cleaned the wires since there was some crud on it but the problem is still happening. The way I fix this is by hitting the bulb socket with my broom and then the light will magically turn back on and stay that way until I turn it off for an extended period of time. What could be causing this issue? It's clearly not a socket issue since I replaced it and the problem is still happening. Is it a wiring issue? The 2 light bulbs that I installed are LED and were both bought at the same time less than a year ago so it's probably not the light bulb. What do you think?
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Jan 27, 2019 08:34
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Busy Bee posted:The 2 light bulbs that I installed are LED and were both bought at the same time less than a year ago so it's probably not the light bulb. Busy Bee posted:Is it a wiring issue? Check the connections where the wires are clamped/screwed/nutted together.
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Jan 27, 2019 13:13
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Javid posted:Just gonna shotgun this "issue" here and see if anybody has a clue. Does her thermostat have an electronic display with a backlight? Because if it does, it's that. Mine does it too.
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Jan 27, 2019 14:17
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smart meter
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RabbitWizard posted:Could just be a problem within the circuitry of the bulb. Just switch them to check. Got it, thanks for the tips. Seems like the light is working fine now though after I reconnected everything but maybe once in a while I have to fix it with the broom. The socket that I have looks like this: https://imgur.com/a/4MyVOJZ This is a dumb question but what is the correct installation method when putting in the copper wire from the ceiling into the 2 pole terminal strip? I'm assuming that I keep everything intact for the preinstalled wires that are in the strip but when I install the wire from the ceiling, is the intention to have those wires touching the wires already installed in the terminal strip? I know I'm over thinking this but I'm a complete idiot when it comes to things like this.
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Jan 28, 2019 08:47
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Javid posted:Just gonna shotgun this "issue" here and see if anybody has a clue. quick question is this a picture of your mother 
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Jan 28, 2019 20:08
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Holy poo poo
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Jan 28, 2019 21:09
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No, but it's an accurate depiction of the level of pants-making GBS threads rage people get whipped into over the loving meters. I don't get it.
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Jan 28, 2019 23:23
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I imagine that the Venn diagram of people who don't like "smart" meters, and people who don't like utility employees on their property monthly to read the meter, is a perfect circle.
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Jan 29, 2019 00:45
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angryrobots posted:I imagine that the Venn diagram of people who don't like "smart" meters, and people who don't like utility employees on their property monthly to read the meter, is a perfect circle. So a circle with a big fat pink "gently caress" written in it?
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Jan 29, 2019 01:48
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To be entirely fair, the power company here seems to exclusively hire morons, so I can imagine someone growing to assume they're just lying to us at every opportunity. They wound up breaking (and, months later, paying for) an irrigation pipe, because the meter reader decided the cones indicating the road across a particular field were obviously for other people, and ran a pickup over the thing. OR, they'll carefully schedule and remind you of an appointment at 3 PM on a specific day to swap the meter, and then the contractor shows up at 10 AM when you aren't ready, and either just leaves (if there's an access issue you have to be home for) or just unplugs your poo poo without warning. Fun all around. However, the smart meters are loving great, and prevent power company morons from driving across the field anymore, so that's a bonus.
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Jan 29, 2019 02:14
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Busy Bee posted:This is a dumb question but what is the correct installation method when putting in the copper wire from the ceiling into the 2 pole terminal strip? I'm assuming that I keep everything intact for the preinstalled wires that are in the strip but when I install the wire from the ceiling, is the intention to have those wires touching the wires already installed in the terminal strip? I know I'm over thinking this but I'm a complete idiot when it comes to things like this.
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Jan 29, 2019 15:26
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RabbitWizard posted:No, because the part where the cables go in conduct electricity. It can't hurt, of course. Btw, not trying to be insulting here (little bit tired), you stripped off the insulation of the incoming cable for the part that goes into the terminal strip? Yup, the insulation was stripped off. So I took your advice and switched the bulb and it seems that the issue is the bulb itself. I turned on the light today after being away for a while and the bulb that I originally switched failed to turn on on the new bulb socket for a few seconds. I ordered a new one online so that should fix the problem. I appreciate your help!
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Jan 29, 2019 23:18
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So I'm putting a new sub panel in my garage (old one only had 4 spaces and was only 110v) It's a Murray LC2040B1100P:  I want to replace the left grounding bar with another insulated neutral bar so that I have neutral access on both sides of the panel for GFCI breaker pigtails. This appears to be the right part and I'm guessing I just bond the two bars with the same conductor I'm using for the panel? It's 60A fed so I'm using 6AWG CU. 30 TO 50 FERAL HOG fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Jan 31, 2019 |
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Jan 31, 2019 15:59
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:I'm guessing I just bond the two bars with the same conductor I'm using for the panel? It's 60A fed so I'm using 6AWG CU. Yep, you got it.
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Jan 31, 2019 16:44
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:So I'm putting a new sub panel in my garage (old one only had 4 spaces and was only 110v) Replace? That's the wrong word. You'd need to move it and put in a second neutral bar. If you're buying a panel specifically for GFCI breakers, than maybe look into one that supports plug on neutral. That way, you don't even need to bother with the neutral pigtails. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Feb 2, 2019 |
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Feb 1, 2019 20:51
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Busy Bee posted:after I reconnected everything Busy Bee posted:So I took your advice and switched the bulb and it seems that the issue is the bulb itself. Always start with the easiest steps that are the most lazy  I'm glad you found the problem!
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Feb 1, 2019 22:06
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kid sinister posted:Replace? That's the wrong word. You'd need to move it and put in a second neutral bar. Yeah.... Or why on Earth (  ) do you need neutral access on both sides of the panel? How many GFCI circuits are you planning to install?
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Feb 1, 2019 23:08
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kid sinister posted:Replace? That's the wrong word. You'd need to move it and put in a second neutral bar. right right, im not getting rid of the grounding bar, just moving it and putting a neutral where it used to be im going to stick with the one I have because I already have a Murray panel in the house so my breakers will be interchangeable. as nice as plug on neutral is, there's probably only going to be 10 circuits or so in the panel so I can live with a few pigtails
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Feb 2, 2019 04:25
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I've got a bedroom that has gone dark, both outlets and the overhead light. I've gone and reset the breakers in both panels in the house a couple times with no luck. I have GFCI on both plugs because it is an old house and they came with ungrounded two prongs. Pushing the buttons on the outlets does nothing. All the other power in the house is fine. Does this sound like a dead GFCI or something else? 
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Feb 2, 2019 06:30
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I like turtles posted:I've got a bedroom that has gone dark, both outlets and the overhead light. I've gone and reset the breakers in both panels in the house a couple times with no luck. I have GFCI on both plugs because it is an old house and they came with ungrounded two prongs. Pushing the buttons on the outlets does nothing. Do you have a multimeter? Test for voltage at the breaker itself, and if there is power there, then test the supply terminals of the outlets. E: easier test, turn the breaker off and then go press the GFCI reset buttons on the outlets. Have someone else turn the breaker on and see if the GFCIs trip. If they do, something is wrong with the circuit but the GFCIs are working like they should and protecting you from it. shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Feb 2, 2019 |
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Feb 2, 2019 06:58
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shame on an IGA posted:Do you have a multimeter? Test for voltage at the breaker itself, and if there is power there, then test the supply terminals of the outlets. All the breakers seem to test fine - the earlier GFCI in the circuit shows 1-2 volts, the one later shows absolutely nothing, and the light switch shows nothing. Bad outlet, or something else? I can go get a replacement GFCI tomorrow
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Feb 2, 2019 07:53
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Replaced the GFCI outlet, no luck. Got an appointment with my electrician for Tuesday since I don't know wtf.
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Feb 2, 2019 23:07
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You have an upstream GFCI in a stupid place that's killing that power. Check behind refrigerators, under bathroom vanities, in the attic, etc.
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Feb 6, 2019 16:34
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Romex in spray foam insulation: it's okay to embed, right? I don't have to run conduit, etc. instead? Specifics: I'm doing more wiring in my shop, dropping in a couple 240V 20A outlets for some bigger tools. I'd like to just go up and over through my attic, but they're going to be doing some expanding closed-cell foam insulation up there this spring, and I want to make sure I'm not breaking a rule by just fixing my wires up in there and then forever entombing them in foam.
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Feb 6, 2019 18:30
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Bad Munki posted:Romex in spray foam insulation: it's okay to embed, right? I don't have to run conduit, etc. instead? Yeah, it's fine to cover NM w/ spray foam.
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Feb 6, 2019 18:44
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Just wanted a sanity check on my plan before I went off and bought the necessary supplies. All of our basement lights are on a single switch, which means that the lights in the unfinished portion are on unnecessarily when we're down there. I'd like to rectify this situation as well as add a switch for a light in a closet that currently just has a plug-in light. Ceiling is drop tile and we do not plan to change that or finish the unfinished area. These lights are the only thing on the circuit as far as I can tell. The plan is to pull back the feed line from the existing light switch and split it out in a junction box to the existing switch as well as the two new switches for the unfinished area + closet. - Since the junction box will be accessible above the drop ceiling, is that acceptable? - For 14/2 romex using external cable clamps, the box should be at a minimum 18cu in? - As long as I get large enough wire nuts, is that acceptable for joining four conductor wires together?
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Feb 6, 2019 19:28
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If I may offer an alternate suggestion, the time and money you spend on not wasting electricity could alternately be spent on putting some LED bulbs in, which will be sufficiently efficient that you won't much care if they're wasting electricity.
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Feb 6, 2019 19:32
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They have motion sensitive led bulbs as well
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Feb 6, 2019 19:47
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I already have the 14/2, so it’ll be like $20 in materials if that. I already have LED bulbs in the finished area boob lights, but for the unfinished area and closet I would need to replace large fluorescent fixtures, so that adds up quick. Definitely in the plan long term but we have more important house projects to spend money on.
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Feb 6, 2019 19:51
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devmd01 posted:
1. Yes 2. Yes, 18 cu. in. is minimum (and fine) for four 14/2's and no device. 3. Yes, tan Ideal wire nuts would work. Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Feb 6, 2019 |
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Feb 6, 2019 21:46
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Blackbeer posted:Yeah, it's fine to cover NM w/ spray foam. Really? You aren't allowed to embed NM in other materials (concrete, plaster, fill,etc.), would be surprised if an AHJ was cool with burying it in foam, especially if not physically protected.
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Feb 6, 2019 22:38
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Special A posted:Really? You aren't allowed to embed NM in other materials (concrete, plaster, fill,etc.), would be surprised if an AHJ was cool with burying it in foam, especially if not physically protected. That's because there's a specific code section that disallows it in those materials.
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Feb 6, 2019 22:46
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Special A posted:Really? You aren't allowed to embed NM in other materials (concrete, plaster, fill,etc.), would be surprised if an AHJ was cool with burying it in foam, especially if not physically protected. Nothing in the NEC about it, and I haven't heard about any issues with doing it. About half the new homes I wire (and get inspected) are stick built and foam insulated with NM wiring. Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Feb 6, 2019 |
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Feb 6, 2019 23:05
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If I were you, I'd install conduit, then run the necessary conductors in that. The spray foam shouldn't collapse it, and you can add/replace the wiring if needed.
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Feb 7, 2019 22:09
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sharkytm posted:If I were you, I'd install conduit, then run the necessary conductors in that. The spray foam shouldn't collapse it, and you can add/replace the wiring if needed. I don’t know anything about code, but I would absolutely do this. Future proofing as best you can.
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Feb 7, 2019 23:35
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I wouldn't entomb wiring in spray foam regardless of code, you're basically betting you'll never have to touch it again at that point. Conduit you can pull bad wires out of and new ones into would be easier.
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Feb 8, 2019 01:33
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Well, in this case, it'd only be entombed across the ceiling portion in the attic. It's a steel barn, with the typical profile. The walls, I'm doing batts and cladding. In the attic, I'll just be spraying. So stuff will run up the inside of the walls, entire accessible and adjustable, and then across the ceiling entombed, and then down the other side, accessible and adjustable. It'd be plenty easy to move an outlet around then, I'd have a minimum 10' of wire to play with that isn't in foam. I'm pretty confident in not needing to move these wires, though, but in the rare event I did, I'd either junction off them, or abandon. I can always run new wires up there on the surface, too, it's not a finished space up there or anything. I'll see about getting a picture tomorrow. Either way, nothing is set in stone yet, just wanted to know my options.
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Feb 8, 2019 01:41
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Conduit would let you add fiber later for the barn datacenter you don't realize you need yet
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Feb 8, 2019 02:16
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I already ran cat6 and coax there, that pops out from the not-to-be-foamed part of the walls, I'm good
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Feb 8, 2019 02:18
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Javid posted:I wouldn't entomb wiring in spray foam regardless of code, you're basically betting you'll never have to touch it again at that point. Conduit you can pull bad wires out of and new ones into would be easier. How is it different than Romex that's stapled in a wall cavity? Or is between floors in an inaccessible chase? I'm not saying you're wrong per se, just that your issue with it is already the reality of new work.
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Feb 8, 2019 02:40
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