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Dukket posted:So, if I decide to get snow tires should I also get a 2nd set of rims under the assumption that pulling tires on and off rims isn't good for them? For convenience factor a second set of wheels with snow tires mounted is super easy and you can do it at home vs spending hours at a tire shop. Nothing inherently wrong with mounting your tires to your one set of wheels every season except the massive time suck and cost. I have an impact and floor jack and I can swap the summers to winters in about 15 minutes. I even got some torque limiting bars so I can torque to 90 ft/lb. without even getting the torque wrench out.
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Jan 31, 2019 01:48
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Get wheels and get everything taken care of the first time. I put my new winters on my old wheels with old TPMS sensors. The orange light drives me just a little crazy. Also, welcome to MN. It’s not all bad. 
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Jan 31, 2019 03:38
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Does anyone know what would cause the horn in my 89 Golf to honk when trying to turn the wheel immediately after starting the car? it happens rarely and will honk every time you try to turn the wheel until you shut off and restart the car after which it won't do it again. It never starts doing it mid drive but it has happened enough at gas stations to be annoying. This car doesn't have a clock-spring so I'm not sure where else to look.
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Jan 31, 2019 04:09
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I haven't needed to buy a car battery in 25 years; last I knew, Sears Die Hard was worth buying. Is there a 'go to' brand? or store? 2010 Tacoma 4cyl 2.7l 4wd
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Jan 31, 2019 04:15
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From what I've seen Autozone and NAPA have the best warranties. Almost all car batteries in this country come from three or four factories and get different stickers put on.
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Jan 31, 2019 04:17
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When I was shopping for one a few months back Costco had the cheapest I could find, Interstate w/ a 3-yr warranty.
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Jan 31, 2019 04:21
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Enos Cabell posted:When I was shopping for one a few months back Costco had the cheapest I could find, Interstate w/ a 3-yr warranty. Seconding Costco. That's where I get all my batteries and these days I seem to buy a lot.
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Jan 31, 2019 05:12
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Krakkles posted:Stuck caliper. Repair or replace. Replaced the caliper today, I didn't disassemble it but the seal looked like poo poo. Test drove with some hard braking, now the left side is dragging and getting hot. Should've just replaced both in the first place. The right side seems to still be getting hotter than the front two brakes. (its like 10 degrees outside right now, pretty easy to feel radiant heat off the wheels) So I'm thinking maybe the rotor is warped or something, with the brakes heating up as much as they did, I can't imagine the rotors weren't damaged. I'm thinking just replace both rotors and the second caliper. Anything else I should be considering?
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Jan 31, 2019 05:49
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KakerMix posted:Seconding Costco. That's where I get all my batteries and these days I seem to buy a lot. Costco also resets the warranty on every exchange, and doesn't dick you around in the least in the process.
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Jan 31, 2019 05:54
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It's good practice to replace anything on the axle as a pair. Mess with the hardware kit in one brake? Do the other. Caliper? Budget for both. Failed flexi-line? Do all four, because they've all seen the same use. That kinda thing. At least you have experience now, so replacing the other one should take 25% of the time 
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Jan 31, 2019 05:54
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Battered Cankles posted:I haven't needed to buy a car battery in 25 years; last I knew, Sears Die Hard was worth buying. Napa batteries are generally from East Penn, which IMO is the best battery you can get (they make GM's OEM batteries, I got over 10 years out of my last OEM GM battery, and it gave plenty of warning before making GBS threads itself). SOME Advance Auto batteries are also from East Penn (the one I currently have is). Depends where you are in the country, the rest from Advance/Car Quest are usually Johnson. Most Die Hards are made by Johnson, who also makes Interstate and a bunch of other brands. A handful of Die Hards are made by East Penn. In my own opinion, if Napa isn't easy to get to (or isn't convenient), just go with whatever parts store brand has the best warranty, and don't get the bottom tier battery. Or if you have a Costco membership, go there - they swap them no questions asked so long as you maintain an active membership. Theirs are Interstate or Kirkland (both made by Johnson, both of those brands are Johnson's higher end brands). toplitzin posted:Wrar and I are going to check out this older Civic for a DD/commuter for me. Posting's gone, but if you did get it, a 98 Civic is bulletproof outside of timing belts and cooling systems. They'll get some serious blowby if you don't keep up on oil changes, and they'll pop a head gasket if you let them run hot (also, if the head warps, the cams don't have bearings, they ride on the surface of the head - so you're usually looking at a new head if it warps). Assume the timing belt and water pump are way overdue unless they provide receipts, and only go with major brand name parts for that stuff (if not OEM). A timing belt job is dead simple on that engine, the hardest part is removing the motor mount and supporting the engine (floor jack with a block of wood spanning the oil pan works fine). Second hardest part is pulling the retaining pin on the new timing belt tensioner. Most timing belt kits include a crank and cam seal, make sure to use them. The crank pulley bolt is a bitch to get off. 96-00 is the last of the double wishbone Civics, if you care about making it handle like a go kart. Also, if you wound up getting it, the 99-00 taillights make it look a lot better (clear/red instead of clear/amber/red). The 99-00 front clip is better looking, but that's a total front clip swap. I want to say 98 got the updated center stack (HVAC controls along the left side instead of the bottom)? Either way, there's an optional cupholder + single DIN kit you can get. It was meant to add cupholders and the optional CD player (if originally optioned with a tape deck). I added it to my 96 and just used the single DIN opening as a storage pocket. I want to say it even added another power socket? Good luck finding it today though, it was still available new at Honda dealers and eBay when I had my 96 (in the early 00s). You can pick up a LOT of power (20ish hp) by just swapping the EX (D16Y8) intake and exhaust manifolds on, though you'd also have to swap the complete EX exhaust on (including cat) and extend the secondary O2 sensor wiring. The ECU handles that easily. Or swap in a D16Y8 engine and ECU; you just have to add a handful of wires (and I think extend a few). Same if you go with a B18 or B20 swap. That's the last gen of the Civic that played nicely with Honda legos. The DX is the lightest sedan and coupe, IIRC.
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Jan 31, 2019 08:54
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I have a 2010 civic where the trunk/gas release switch simply doesn’t push/pull. Ive tried to lock/unlock it, and do see the mechanism turning. It’s currently -8f, is the cable simply frozen? I haven’t tried to put too much force to pull or push the thing because I don’t have a covered garage to do the work. I’m running low on gas so I’ll probably manually pop the gas tank cover which should last me until next week when it’s warmer to deal with this. Help me car goons Side question should I get aftermarket led tails/sidelights? Not housing so
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Jan 31, 2019 16:28
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Dukket posted:So, if I decide to get snow tires should I also get a 2nd set of rims under the assumption that pulling tires on and off rims isn't good for them? Aside from the convenience and cost savings of not having to have them swapped twice a year, you can also potentially "minus size" your wheels if your vehicle allows for this. Smaller wheels have many advantages with winter tires. The wheels are cheaper, the tires tend to be cheaper, and the larger sidewalls will provide a better ride and better protection against pothole damage. My car runs 17" wheels in the summer but 15s in the winter. I always recommend going as small as your brakes will allow for winter.
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Jan 31, 2019 16:37
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So far I'm liking MN, looking forward to easier access to camping/hiking/winter sports and hoping to rekindle some other outdoor activities I've been away from for a long time. Its kinda funny, anyone to reads the same threads as me is probably sick of seeing my posts about moving to MN. Yeah, I had read that going to a smaller wheel for snow tires is the way to go and that makes sense. Tirerack sellers winter combos, I'll have to check to see if that works out price wise, I really don't know anything about wheels other than alloy v steel. Mine does have the pressure sensor and I assume that is something only a shop can hook up, but that just means I need to pay attention to my tire pressure (which I should be doing anyway) and deal with the light? I'm still a bit annoyed that Haynes still hasn't produced a book for my year/make/model, its a popular car and four years old. They said they might do one this year. I have you tube until then I guess. This might be a question that is helpful to others as well - what is a good starter set of tools to collect for basic maintenance? nitsuga posted:Get wheels and get everything taken care of the first time. I put my new winters on my old wheels with old TPMS sensors. The orange light drives me just a little crazy. wolrah posted:Aside from the convenience and cost savings of not having to have them swapped twice a year, you can also potentially "minus size" your wheels if your vehicle allows for this. Smaller wheels have many advantages with winter tires. The wheels are cheaper, the tires tend to be cheaper, and the larger sidewalls will provide a better ride and better protection against pothole damage. Uthor posted:Yes, but not to preserve the tires. New rims will cost the same as paying to mount and balance your tires like twice. You'll save money after a year. Not to mention how much faster it is to just swap the wheels.
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Jan 31, 2019 17:17
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I have found myself changing a tire on my wife's Mazda5 in a parking lot twice in the last couple months. The scissor jack I was using did not seem particularly safe and it was leaning at one point, probably due to the unevenness of the lot I was in. I don't mind having to spend an extra minute or whatever lifting the care with the screw, and I know to put the tire I have just taken off under the frame while I put a new tire on, but at the same time I wonder whether there is a better and safer jack I could use that would not take up too much space in the back of the car. If there is I would probably get a new jack for both her Mazda and my Kia Spectra. The cars are only a few inches off the ground to start with, so I think probably most bottle jacks would not fit. Would a small trolley jack be safe to use on the side of the road? Any other pieces of equipment recommended to make roadside tire changes safer? I was thinking I would get some folding wheel chocks too.
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Jan 31, 2019 19:05
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A reflective triangle and a high-vis vest would be advisable. A small 12v air compressor to pump up tyres might also save you from having to change a wheel roadside, too.
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Jan 31, 2019 19:42
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STR posted:Napa batteries are generally from East Penn, which IMO is the best battery you can get (they make GM's OEM batteries, I got over 10 years out of my last OEM GM battery, and it gave plenty of warning before making GBS threads itself). SOME Advance Auto batteries are also from East Penn (the one I currently have is). Depends where you are in the country, the rest from Advance/Car Quest are usually Johnson. It's gone cuz i bought it 
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Jan 31, 2019 19:43
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Oh the radiator might bust open too if it's original
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Jan 31, 2019 20:01
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Do any of the headlight restoring products work? Mine are getting pretty hazy.
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Jan 31, 2019 20:53
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tactlessbastard posted:Do any of the headlight restoring products work? Mine are getting pretty hazy. yes. clear over em with plastic clear paint and they'll last longer than ~yr. $15 amazon 3m kit works good.
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Jan 31, 2019 20:55
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tactlessbastard posted:Do any of the headlight restoring products work? Mine are getting pretty hazy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqOKmZ9mMfc
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Jan 31, 2019 21:03
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They have the 3M kit at HF usually so you can easily get the 20% off. Amazon also has sealant packets for ~$5 https://www.amazon.com/3M-Quick-Headlight-Clear-39173/dp/B079QL8BYK So does Meguiar's. https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17804-Clear-Headlight-Coating/dp/B01M4RVVX6/ toplitzin fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Jan 31, 2019 |
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Jan 31, 2019 21:25
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tactlessbastard posted:Do any of the headlight restoring products work? Mine are getting pretty hazy.
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Jan 31, 2019 21:50
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Thanks dudes
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Jan 31, 2019 22:41
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Action Man posted:Replaced the caliper today, I didn't disassemble it but the seal looked like poo poo. Test drove with some hard braking, now the left side is dragging and getting hot. Should've just replaced both in the first place. The right side seems to still be getting hotter than the front two brakes. (its like 10 degrees outside right now, pretty easy to feel radiant heat off the wheels) So I'm thinking maybe the rotor is warped or something, with the brakes heating up as much as they did, I can't imagine the rotors weren't damaged.
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Jan 31, 2019 22:45
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Rotors can get hard enough to change structure and develop hard spots, but that takes a ton of heat, like repeated red hot -> cool cycles. That said rotors are so cheap comparatively you may as well replace them if you're doing everything else.
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Jan 31, 2019 22:48
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Dukket posted:So far I'm liking MN, looking forward to easier access to camping/hiking/winter sports and hoping to rekindle some other outdoor activities I've been away from for a long time. Its kinda funny, anyone to reads the same threads as me is probably sick of seeing my posts about moving to MN. For winters, I run black steelies, but I also run black steelies for summers. It depends on the sensors. I don't have to go in and get mine synced, I just put on one set and it picks up the sensors. Mileage varies though I'm guessing. Same deal with what they'll do, all I've actually dealt with are dash lights, but I've heard about chimes and crap like that. As far as tools go, there are tons of options. Some people like the Crescent tool kits. They cover pretty much everything you need, and they're pretty decent quality. They are bulky though. I can't help but plug kctoolco.com here too. My alternative recommendation would be a Wera Tool-Check Plus. It's not nearly as comprehensive as the Crescent set, but it can still do quite a bit in a very tidy and portable package. I'd just keep these guys in mind. They sell German tools, and I haven't been disappointed by anything I've picked up from them. It's totally worth getting a nice screwdriver set if nothing else.
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Jan 31, 2019 23:49
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Risky Bisquick posted:I have a 2010 civic where the trunk/gas release switch simply doesn’t push/pull. Ive tried to lock/unlock it, and do see the mechanism turning. It’s currently -8f, is the cable simply frozen? I haven’t tried to put too much force to pull or push the thing because I don’t have a covered garage to do the work. I’m running low on gas so I’ll probably manually pop the gas tank cover which should last me until next week when it’s warmer to deal with this. Help me car goons The cable is frozen. There should be a release cable in the trunk for it, though you may have to reach behind the carpeted trunk liner behind the gas filler (not sure how it is on a 2010, but on my 96 Civic, and on my 01 Accord, I believe it was behind the liner). Alternatively, get a heat gun (or hair dryer) on a beefy extension cord and focus it around the gas door (moving the heat gun constantly) for a few minutes. You also may need to pull back the trunk liner and aim it on the cable itself (don't focus it on one spot unless you like melting the cable sheath). And in my own opinion, no, stick with incandescent for most exterior bulbs, and for that matter, stick with Sylvania, Phillips, Wagner, etc (the brands you'll find in most parts stores - stay away from eBay stuff). Most automotive LEDs don't have even light distribution until you spend a decent chunk of change (I think Phillips or Sylvania may have some DOT approved ones, finally; they're even at Walmart and Autozone, but they're spendy), so your tails may not be nearly as bright to people behind you. If someone rearends you while braking, and you have cheap LEDs, you may be found partially or fully at fault if they figure out you had LED bulbs in there that aren't DOT approved. For sides, ehhh, try them, see if they look decent, but don't be surprised if they only really light up one small part of the lens. If the sides flash with your turn signals, the signals may flash faster. I do recommend (good) LEDs for the license plate light; even the cheap crappy ones I got from eBay are brighter than the original single 194 bulb on my car, and shouldn't burn out anytime soon. There's some decent looking LEDs that alternate between amber and cool white for front signals. I forget what they're called (possibly switchback LEDs? they have amber for the turn signal pin, cool white for the parking light pin), but they do look neat if you get a good one (they're expensive for good ones). They don't work well on a car that uses the turn signals as daytime running lights (your car doesn't AFAIK, but mine does - they'll burn out really quick on my car), but they're kinda neat so long as you add a resistor with them to trick the body control module into thinking they're normal lights. therobit posted:Would a small trolley jack be safe to use on the side of the road? Any other pieces of equipment recommended to make roadside tire changes safer? I was thinking I would get some folding wheel chocks too. Much safer (and far, far faster) than a scissor jack, yes - you can get the car off of that wheel in 30 seconds vs several minutes. Just make sure to use either the same jacking points the factory jack would use, or lift it by the control arm for the particular wheel you're dealing with. I've kept a trolley jack in my car for nearly a decade. Make sure you close the valve on it before storing it, otherwise it may leak the hydraulic fluid out if it winds up sideways or upside down. Jack stands are never a bad idea, but honestly, if I'm changing a tire on the side of the road, I'm all about getting it done as quick as I can. I set the parking brake, leave it in 1st or reverse (manual transmission in my case; park if it's automatic - and if I'm changing a driven tire, I put some kind of chock on the other side - i.e. FWD car, flat left front, chock the right front with a rock, brick, chunk of wood, anything handy, on the side that it would be most likely to roll toward), and make sure no part of my body is under the tire or car. Once I get the wheel off, I lay it under the control arm or jack point until the spare is on - that way, if the car falls, it lands on the wheel. A new wheel is a lot cheaper than a funeral or a hospital bill. If you're on a dirt shoulder, a block of wood (hell, even plywood) under the jack isn't a bad idea to stabilize it. I'd suggest a 4 way lugwrench as well. You can lay into them a lot harder than the factory lug wrench (sometimes too hard, I've snapped wheel studs with them when a shop cross-threaded the lugnuts), and they're just overall easier to use. It's kind of a PITA to keep a trolley jack in the trunk, a milk crate or sturdy box along with a cargo net will help keep it from moving around. [/wall of text] toplitzin posted:It's gone cuz i bought it How much? Looks pretty drat good for a 98. Congrats on your new money pit!  Slap some new headlamp housings on and it'll look worlds better, or use a restoration kit (I kinda prefer black housings without the amber reflector/with an amber bulb on EKs, personally, but a cop having a bad day may gently caress with you over the missing reflector... if you can even get those anymore). You have to drop the bumper cover to change the housings (hell, you have to peel the fender liner back just to change the turn signal bulbs), but it's only an hour or 2 of work. IIRC it's a handful of plastic pins up top, 4-6 bolts on the bottom, and a screw in each wheel opening to remove the cover. Is that the original paint? I don't know if I've ever seen an EK in that color, but I think it was an option. The scratches in the hood, and the faded roof, have me thinking it's original. Those cars are dead loving simple to work on, and they respond surprisingly well to mods (EX intake manifold helps a shitload, but you do lose what little low RPM power you have now). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Feb 1, 2019 |
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Feb 1, 2019 08:29
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Whenever I road trip in any vehicle, I keep my impact driver and a universal lug adapter for it, so the tire iron is only for breaking loose and tightening down, not the actual bulk of the screwing-on. It's just easier.
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Feb 1, 2019 08:34
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Okay that's a bit overkill even for me. I do have a cordless impact driver, but I don't go full Hulk on my lugnuts when I tighten them - generally Discount Tire is the only one to touch the lugs unless I have a flat, and they're very good about using torque sticks and not cross threading. The impact comes in real handy on suspension parts though. And, I suspect I'll be finding out how useful it is on head bolts soonish.  It has a nasty miss anytime it's sat for a couple of days for about a minute or two, with no signs of oil or anything on the plugs if I pull them immediately after startup. It's batch fire, so it should be missing on 2 cylinders if it was a coil or ICM issue; instead it always throws P0403 and a flashing CEL when it happens. It goes away once it's been running for a couple of minutes.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:16 on Feb 1, 2019 |
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Feb 1, 2019 09:09
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Oh this is like a cheap ryobi impact gun, it can't even remotely touch lug nut level torques. I just use it because it's physically smaller than the drill.
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Feb 1, 2019 09:56
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Mine is too. It still claims 300 ft/lbs, and it's done pretty well so far. Except it reeks of ozone every time I use it (and spits a few sparks here and there); I'm still on the fence about a warranty claim on it.
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Feb 1, 2019 10:04
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A breaker bar and with the correct socket for the lugs is superior to any dedicated tire iron I've ever used. Packs small too, if there's a long enough storage space under the trunk carpet or something.
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Feb 1, 2019 10:08
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STR posted:
$1200, and the first load of rock auto parts is on the way for $150. (Pads, rotors, valve cover gasket, plug wires, led bulbs for the instrument panel, and tie rod ends.) New fender from rock auto is only 25, but I can also poke around lkq. I need to get new tires and maybe wheels+ tires. Right now it's got some winters on it.
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Feb 1, 2019 11:58
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I have an impact and torque sticks and it makes my life so much easier.
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Feb 1, 2019 14:30
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Invalido posted:A breaker bar and with the correct socket for the lugs is superior to any dedicated tire iron I've ever used. Packs small too, if there's a long enough storage space under the trunk carpet or something. Ding ding. Throw in a couple Harbor Freight coupons and it's a pretty cheap combo, too. I've got this, trolley jack, and a pair of gloves in a bag in the trunk of the Nova. Don't actually have a spare yet, but there's no way in hell I was going to use the factory bumper jack.
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Feb 1, 2019 14:56
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I used a bumper jack on a '72 Olds Delta 88 on a busy state road when I was 16 (and the flat was the one facing the two line highway). I'm still wondering how I'm still alive.
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Feb 1, 2019 15:10
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C-Bangin' it 
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Ding ding. Throw in a couple Harbor Freight coupons and it's a pretty cheap combo, too. I've got this, trolley jack, and a pair of gloves in a bag in the trunk of the Nova. Don't actually have a spare yet, but there's no way in hell I was going to use the factory bumper jack. A trolley jack is more than I want to lug around all the time and hopefully never use. What I'd really like to have is something small enough to fit inside the spare well with the rest of my just-in-case stuff, but better made and more stable than the factory jack - I've used that twice, and it was a bit too sketchy for my liking. I probably wouldn't mind a scissor jack if it was less prone to bending and tipping over than those tend to be.
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Feb 1, 2019 17:11
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STR posted:The cable is frozen. There should be a release cable in the trunk for it, though you may have to reach behind the carpeted trunk liner behind the gas filler (not sure how it is on a 2010, but on my 96 Civic, and on my 01 Accord, I believe it was behind the liner). Alternatively, get a heat gun (or hair dryer) on a beefy extension cord and focus it around the gas door (moving the heat gun constantly) for a few minutes. You also may need to pull back the trunk liner and aim it on the cable itself (don't focus it on one spot unless you like melting the cable sheath). I already broke the cable from the inside trying to fix it  , and couldn't pull the drat thing from the trunk to release the gas tank. I ended up cutting the gas tank release cable in the trunk and unsheathing some of it and using pliers to pull it/open the gas tank. The cable itself is basically a bicycle brake cable, plastic sheathing on twisted metal so whatever.I'd honestly leave it like this given the remote trunk release works perfectly fine, and you can access the gas release from there, but my wife probably wants it fixed  I was asking about the LEDs because one of the 7443 section had some 'led lights' that were 5-6x the price of the replacements I was buying.
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Feb 1, 2019 17:41
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Javid posted:Oh this is like a cheap ryobi impact gun, it can't even remotely touch lug nut level torques. I just use it because it's physically smaller than the drill. My half inch Ryobi handles lug bolts just fine
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Feb 1, 2019 18:12
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