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Not quite. Basically I am looking for the piece that would make one of those hoses a circle. That way I can connect the two together. The Ferguson part looks close, but it should be male threaded on both sides. Again, I’m not a plumber, I’m just going off what I’ve got in front of me.
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Jan 29, 2019 05:44
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nitsuga posted:Not quite. Basically I am looking for the piece that would make one of those hoses a circle. That way I can connect the two together. It is male on both sides. The side with the nut on it in the picture screws in to the supply line. Throw away the nut. I’ve used this exact part for your exact situation.
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Jan 29, 2019 06:04
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tyler posted:It is male on both sides. The side with the nut on it in the picture screws in to the supply line. Throw away the nut. You're right. I was able to pick two up this morning, and they look to be exactly the right part. Thank you! Here's hoping the rest of the sink comes together. EDIT: The part fit, and things look pretty good. It looks like the cold water supply line is leaking though (the arrow shows where). Can I get lines like this at the store? Do I need a special tool to remove and/or install them? 
nitsuga fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Jan 29, 2019 |
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Jan 29, 2019 17:51
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Oh god do I hate those plastic push stops. I'm really starting to sound like a bitter old plumber who dreams of the day galvanized was ki... Ok i won't go that far.
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Jan 29, 2019 22:31
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Yeah, they aren't my favorite either. As I figured, you do need a special tool for these, so I got it done by a professional today. With the number of them I've got here though I'll have to look into where I can rent one.
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Jan 30, 2019 23:09
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I'm looking to put in a sump pump in an outside dry well, because it's the central drainage point for my entire yard and when it backs up it overflows right up against my house and causes flooding. (The proper fix is to rip everything up and re-grade away from the house and install a proper french drain, but that's not happening this winter. Right now I need to be able to divert a lot of water quickly when this backs up.) I'm looking at this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00554SP3K/?tag=jecwebsite-20 for the pump. The other issue is I need to pump it about 80-90 feet away. I'm having trouble finding hose that long, so I'm looking at buying several of these https://www.amazon.com/WAYNE-66000-...T6E4YR4REEVSY61 and combining them. Anything crazy wrong with this plan so far?
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Feb 1, 2019 23:51
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Round 4 Walling everything back up from leak a few weeks ago and I notice what I can only hope was mud in the wall behind a toilet. Upon further inspection another T joint to shut off valve has a slow drip coming out of it.  This was from the other side of the wall right after the first repair in 2015 where it was a stress fracture right in the stud. Does flux turn green that quick? 
JEEVES420 fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Feb 14, 2019 |
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Feb 14, 2019 22:05
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JEEVES420 posted:Round 4 Flux doesn't turn green, copper does. There must have been a lot of humidity for it to appear that far away from a drip. That means with that much water present, I'd check all the wood there for rot as well. That might explain the "mud". Whoever soldered your pipes did an absolute crap job. A proper solder joint will outlive you and your kids.
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Feb 15, 2019 18:56
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kid sinister posted:Flux doesn't turn green, copper does. There must have been a lot of humidity for it to appear that far away from a drip. That means with that much water present, I'd check all the wood there for rot as well. That might explain the "mud". There was another leak...and another between the two pics, last one being a few weeks ago. This would be the 4th leak I have had in 5 years. All the new joints have held but the original ones are all failing. I had the plumber out this morning and went ahead and scheduled redoing the whole wall in Pex (from the slab). The two bathroom's piping is all in that wall and where all my leaks have been. Kicker is I just finished the drywall and texturing on the living room side of that wall, was getting ready to lay the replacement floors and paint. Now I am ripping the drywall back out so they can re-pipe.
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Feb 15, 2019 23:03
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My water has what I can only describe as an unpleasant metallic tang, I called the water company and got them to test it and they said everything is within safe limits and sent me a letter with all the numbers on it. Even though all the levels are safe do any of those numbers look like they'd be causing the unpleasant aftertaste? Just wondering if it's something where like... a water filter will help, or does piping need replacing or something else? Heck rate my numbers!
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Feb 18, 2019 21:12
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Crankit posted:My water has what I can only describe as an unpleasant metallic tang, I called the water company and got them to test it and they said everything is within safe limits and sent me a letter with all the numbers on it. You need to test the water at one of your taps and send it off. Those numbers are from their plant/post treatment but likely before the distribution network and definitely before your lateral and home piping.
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Feb 18, 2019 22:04
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Motronic posted:You need to test the water at one of your taps and send it off. Those numbers are from their plant/post treatment but likely before the distribution network and definitely before your lateral and home piping. Oh sorry should have said, a guy came out, took water from the kitchen tap into like 5 different plastic containers, he cleaned the tap with a chlorine bleach first and then sprayed it and ran the tap etc.
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Feb 18, 2019 22:09
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Nitrates?
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Feb 18, 2019 22:14
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Crankit posted:Oh sorry should have said, a guy came out, took water from the kitchen tap into like 5 different plastic containers, he cleaned the tap with a chlorine bleach first and then sprayed it and ran the tap etc. Ahhhh, got it. So ask for THEIR plant report as well. It might be on the web site. Compare. I'm gonna guess this is high zinc. That should probably 50 or below. Could be other stuff too, and I'm sure others have more experience and can chime in. And a whole house water filter will take care of it if it's the distribution lines/lateral, or a point of use if it's the pipes in your home.
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Feb 18, 2019 22:22
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So, this feels like a dumb question. The directions for my Moen shower valve says the tub spout HAS to be between 6 and 11 inches below the valve. Why is that? I had planned to put the value quite a bit higher than the suggested 32 inches, (40 or more) but would obviously want the tub spout much lower than 11 inches from there. It's a pretty low tub.
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Feb 21, 2019 19:16
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Dukket posted:So, this feels like a dumb question. I've have never seen Moen specify a maximum distance for a spout. What model number is it? All of the Moen documentation I have on hand does not specify a maximum drop. As long as you adhere to the 6" minimum as well as keeping the spout 4" above the rim of the tub you will have no issues, unless there is some crazy high end Moen 4 port valve I am not aware of. Below is direct from Moen. quote:4- port: (2700 SERIES): Install casting with "UP" at the top (arrow pointing up). If the valve is to be used for both a shower and a tub, connect the top outlet to the shower (36" minimum riser) and the bottom outlet to the tub (6" minimum drop), using 1/2" iron pipe size or 1/2" copper water tube, 5/8" O.D. (If the valve is to be used for a shower only or a tub only, plug the outlet not being used.)
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Feb 21, 2019 19:42
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BubbaGrace posted:I've have never seen Moen specify a maximum distance for a spout. What model number is it? All of the Moen documentation I have on hand does not specify a maximum drop. As long as you adhere to the 6" minimum as well as keeping the spout 4" above the rim of the tub you will have no issues, unless there is some crazy high end Moen 4 port valve I am not aware of. Below is direct from Moen. Thanks for the response Genta - 82760 This us my first foray into plumbing and it's been interesting and a bit frustrating so far.
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Feb 21, 2019 20:32
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Dukket posted:Thanks for the response The spec sheet says for "optimal performance" with regards to tub spout drop and shower head riser. Basically this is just a recommendation on a dummy sheet, no offense to you of course. What is critical is the minimum drop and valve depth due to trim clearance. I even asked some colleagues just incase because I am not familiar with this trim. You will be fine.
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Feb 21, 2019 21:28
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BubbaGrace posted:The spec sheet says for "optimal performance" with regards to tub spout drop and shower head riser. Basically this is just a recommendation on a dummy sheet, no offense to you of course. What is critical is the minimum drop and valve depth due to trim clearance. I even asked some colleagues just incase because I am not familiar with this trim. You will be fine. I need a dummy sheet, so no offense taken. Great, thanks! My first stab at soldering is coming up. I was disappointed when it turned out "all pex" isn't really "all pex". They're pretty insistent the drop from the valve to the spout be copper and not pex. It's not a bad skill to learn and it seems pretty easy.
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Feb 21, 2019 21:36
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Never use non-ridgid pipe on a tub spot. If you are paranoid about soldering you could always go with compression fittings or threaded brass nipples. Whatever you do, do not attempt sharkbites (push to fit) on the spout or it will spin.
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Feb 21, 2019 21:43
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Dukket posted:I need a dummy sheet, so no offense taken. Eh, you could use threaded brass pipes and fittings right there if you wanted to. It'd just be really expensive and really hard to get the right length for the spout to screw on. Plus, you really don't want PEX everywhere. It's too flexible for spouts. That flexibility also makes it hard to turn off valves when you need to. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Feb 21, 2019 |
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Feb 21, 2019 21:45
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BubbaGrace posted:Never use non-ridgid pipe on a tub spot. If you are paranoid about soldering you could always go with compression fittings or threaded brass nipples. Whatever you do, do not attempt sharkbites (push to fit) on the spout or it will spin. Naw, I've watched enough videos that I'm not too worried. Just a new thing involving fire, water and my house. Plus none of it needs to be done in place, so I'll just go out to the garage. Whoever did this before me used sharkbite for every thing except the spout. Eight altogether, seems expensive. Thankfully there is an access panel.
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Feb 21, 2019 22:03
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I guess I should mention just to save you a possible headache. You do not want the tub spout drop to be longer than the shower head riser or water will possibly come out of the head even when running the spout. So yes, there is a maximum per se. Just something to keep in mind.
BubbaGrace fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Feb 21, 2019 |
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Feb 21, 2019 23:26
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BubbaGrace posted:I guess I should mention just to save you a possible headache. You do not want the tub spout drop to be longer than the shower head riser or water will possibly come out of the head even when running the spout. So yes, there is a maximum per se. Just something to keep in mind. Ah, that makes sense. It was going to be close, so maybe I'll move it down a touch. Thanks
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Feb 21, 2019 23:45
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Double post: Turns out I just dont get soldering. A friend of mine said part of the problem is garbage flux that burns too quickly. This has been extremely frustrating. "I'll do the plumbing" I told my wife. "It'll be easy", I said.
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Feb 24, 2019 03:57
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Dukket posted:Double post: Don't feel bad, I (as a diy brokanic) have trouble soldering copper fittings when the are over my head. What tools are you using?
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Feb 24, 2019 10:37
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The Gardenator posted:Don't feel bad, I (as a diy brokanic) have trouble soldering copper fittings when the are over my head. What tools are you using? Bernsomatic - Map gas, flux and solder. I'm deburring, using sand paper/cloth/whatever to clean and shine up the pipe (not touching the cleaned bits).
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Feb 24, 2019 12:44
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Dukket posted:Bernsomatic - Map gas, flux and solder. Even though new MAP isn't really MAP and isn't as hot, I don't suggest using that for soldering pipes when you first start out. It def can get hot enough to cause you problems pretty quickly compared to blue bottles. But that's likely not your real problem. Just buy some fittings and a piece of pipe and go to town learning how to do this. If you sand and prime well enough and then preheat the fitting properly (until the flux starts to sweat) all you need to do is touch the solder to it. Capillary action will wick it up into the joint. Including literally up if that's the orientation of your joint. Do it in your garage/outside/wherever is an easy place to work and have access to it. Once you've figured it out and done it correctly a few times you'll know what you are looking for and be able to take on the harder part of doing it on real plumbing with access issues. Other hints: the pipe MUST BE 100% dry. No drips at all. and you need a wet rag with you at all times. Especially when soldering inside/in stud bays/etc. When your joint is finished wipe it down. The flux is no longer your friend.
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Feb 24, 2019 17:56
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Also, make sure you're heating up the fitting past where the pipe is, not the joint itself. Cooling down is what draws the solder into the joint, so when you apply heat past it, as it cools down it pulls the solder from the pipe to the interior of the fitting. e: Also make sure you are shining/cleaning the inside of the fitting too, not just the exterior of the pipe.
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Feb 24, 2019 18:16
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SpartanIvy posted:Also, make sure you're heating up the fitting past where the pipe is, not the joint itself. Cooling down is what draws the solder into the joint, so when you apply heat past it, as it cools down it pulls the solder from the pipe to the interior of the fitting. I'm using the wire pipe brush for the inside and some sand paper as well. I think I am really over heating. I am heating the pipe for a bit then the fitting, then I move the heat to the top of fitting when applying the solder. I'm heading out to give it another go with new flux and fresh (ish) attitude. Edit: success!? Dukket fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Feb 24, 2019 |
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Feb 24, 2019 18:23
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I had a plumber come and pull my toilet a while back to replace the ring, and he used this powder in the bowl that set the water to a gel, so he could pull it without draining and drying it out. Once the toilet was back on, he added heaps of water and it dissolved the gel back to water again. I need to pull the toilet this week to replace the flooring, but don't really want to pay the service call again. Does anyone know what the stuff he used is called, and where I ca get it from?
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Feb 24, 2019 23:27
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JimbobDobalina posted:I had a plumber come and pull my toilet a while back to replace the ring, and he used this powder in the bowl that set the water to a gel, so he could pull it without draining and drying it out. TIL https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Gel-Toilet-Water-Solidifier-For/3695260
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Feb 24, 2019 23:39
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Thanks!
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Feb 24, 2019 23:57
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JFC that is brilliant. Ordered 2 packs in anticipation of the next disaster. Thanks JimbobDobalina and H110Hawk.
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Feb 25, 2019 01:08
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Motronic posted:JFC that is brilliant. Ordered 2 packs in anticipation of the next disaster. Thanks JimbobDobalina and H110Hawk. Seriously. I learned about it just now as well. Googled toilet water gel and braced myself.
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Feb 25, 2019 01:15
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H110Hawk posted:Seriously. I learned about it just now as well. Googled toilet water gel and braced myself. Looks like fracking technology has finally trickled down to toilet replacement.
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Feb 25, 2019 01:26
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H110Hawk posted:Seriously. I learned about it just now as well. Googled toilet water gel and braced myself. For real. I googled all the combos of toilet gel I could think of, and either got cleaners or moisturizing products. But now that you've linked it, if I search the same terms now it's loving first result. Go figure.
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Feb 25, 2019 01:34
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Does it have some sort of horrible catch? Like it rots metal pipes or something?
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Feb 25, 2019 05:50
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I'm sticking with my Wet-Vac.
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Feb 25, 2019 06:08
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SpartanIvy posted:Does it have some sort of horrible catch? Like it rots metal pipes or something? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_polyacrylate Doesn't seem to be. I wouldn't huff it or drink it, but seems pretty tame.
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Feb 25, 2019 06:30
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