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Could you move the sofa slightly and slip a folding screen behind it?
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Jan 13, 2019 19:53
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What should I look up if I want someone to tell me whether or not it’s ok to bust out a wall or column in my house? “Structural engineer” just gets me foundation repair companies.
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Jan 13, 2019 19:54
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Fallom posted:What should I look up if I want someone to tell me whether or not it’s ok to bust out a wall or column in my house? “Structural engineer” just gets me foundation repair companies. Someone in GiP can get ahold of Grover.
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Jan 13, 2019 20:03
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Fallom posted:What should I look up if I want someone to tell me whether or not it’s ok to bust out a wall or column in my house? “Structural engineer” just gets me foundation repair companies. I used http://onsitepe.com when I needed to get a house I owned looked at prior to a sale. You are on the right track searching for a structural engineer. Just need to sift through the search results for your area.
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Jan 13, 2019 20:07
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Fallom posted:What should I look up if I want someone to tell me whether or not it’s ok to bust out a wall or column in my house? “Structural engineer” just gets me foundation repair companies. To give you an amateur’s answer, it depends mostly on the direction of the joists above, but a structural engineer can tell you for sure and back it up with a degree.
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Jan 13, 2019 20:15
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Fallom posted:What should I look up if I want someone to tell me whether or not it’s ok to bust out a wall or column in my house? “Structural engineer” just gets me foundation repair companies. You're potentially opening a door you don't want opened by doing this, but you can probably call/stop by your local municipality's permit office and ask them to make a recommendation. I live in a small township, but even here the permit office has a PE licensed dude on staff. Bonus is that assuming the plans of his recommended guy are followed, the permit is just rubber stamped while they're both out on the golf course or whatever.
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Jan 13, 2019 20:28
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B-Nasty posted:But HGTV told me that every house must have a fully open concept or it's a claustrophobic, outdated, shithole from the 80s. If I can't walk in the front door and see all your dirty pans in the sink, I'm telling my agent to scratch that house. We've considered closing it off permanently - we had wanted to do it after we flooded with Harvey in 2017, but there was so much other crap going on that it just didn't get done. Would have been the perfect time to do it, too. cakesmith handyman posted:Could you move the sofa slightly and slip a folding screen behind it? We could. I've thought about making a screen that either sits on the granite or folds down from the ceiling - a simple frame with acoustic insulation maybe, covered with fabric. Getting something pre-made would be easier, for sure.
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Jan 15, 2019 03:54
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If your problem is watching TV in the living room while someone is in the kitchen, do you have a sound bar or some kind of sound system with a subwoofer? Our open kitchen sound woes were fixed with a subwoofer. The bass was enough to augment the sound enough to be heard easily over the sink, stove top, fans, etc. . The problem with a folding frame is where to keep it when you don't want the space closed off. If louder sound in the living room isn't an option, my vote would be Roman/ceiling mounted shades from someone like MoonDream. Acoustical curtains aren't cheap though and I wouldn't be surprised if the cost is similar to removing the counter and framing in the space. Installing the curtains would be a heck of a lot less mess though...
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Jan 15, 2019 18:54
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I would just put up a big venetian blind. It would probably cut alot of the annoyance down without much effort, and you could even get a translucent "roman" style so it doesn't look too weird.
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Jan 15, 2019 19:59
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Japanese shoji screen for max oil splatters. Tbh I'd probably just use cable ties to attach a blackboard to a garden trellis, and shove it behind the couch for minimal support.
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Jan 16, 2019 05:12
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So I jut found a decent amount of dry rot in my house. The home inspector missed it, I can easily put a screwdriver through the rotten subfloor. In addition, I can feel cold air coming in from the baseboard area there, the wall at the baseboard feels rotten, and from the outside I can feel rot underneath the siding. I'm not even sure what kind of contractor to call. Most of the GCs are just random chucklefucks, and I don't think it warrants a structural engineer. Advice? I'm pretty certain that the interior and exterior walls will need to get replaced in that area, and the window checked to make sure it's sealed properly. 
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Jan 16, 2019 19:09
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Do you have a crawlspace? Basement? Slab foundation? If you can get a look from underneath that will help to determine if any structural components are damaged.
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Jan 16, 2019 19:46
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Enos Cabell posted:My simple project of replacing the carpet with vinyl flooring just got a whole lot more interesting: DkHelmet posted:So I jut found a decent amount of dry rot in my house. The home inspector missed it, I can easily put a screwdriver through the rotten subfloor. In addition, I can feel cold air coming in from the baseboard area there, the wall at the baseboard feels rotten, and from the outside I can feel rot underneath the siding. I ran into the same problem last spring, your pic is what mine looked like before I started digging. Any windows in that corner? That was the source of my water, ended up having to replace the window and some of the framing on that wall and a chunk of subfloor. Aside from the window it was a pretty easy job, I let a pro handle that part of it so I didn't have to worry about loving up a $1200 picture window.
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Jan 16, 2019 19:56
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Would it be worth getting those garage door insulation kits if my garage doesn't have insulation in the walls? The walls are rocked, but without insulation.
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Jan 23, 2019 21:00
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AFewBricksShy posted:Would it be worth getting those garage door insulation kits if my garage doesn't have insulation in the walls? The walls are rocked, but without insulation. I have modern insulated steel doors on my 105 year old garage. Walls are uninsulated plaster on lathe. The door insulation has made no difference, but the better seal compared to the old barn style doors has made it extremely humid inside due to the heat from vehicles condensing on cold windows/surfaces. My suggestion would be to do all or nothing.
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Jan 23, 2019 21:14
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Are there any good resources for maintaining/dealing with hot water radiators? The house I’m buying has them so I’m aware of having to bleed them occasionally but I was wondering if there was more to deal with.
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Jan 28, 2019 01:38
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Are there any good resources for maintaining/dealing with hot water radiators? The house I’m buying has them so I’m aware of having to bleed them occasionally but I was wondering if there was more to deal with. Not really, no. You'll need to keep an eye on whatever anti-rust filter thing you have (if any) on the boiler, other than that it's just bleed them regularly and, if my lifetime of living with them is any indication, overpaint them with thick globs of white paint taking special case to leave lots of thick gritty paint runs all over them.
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Jan 28, 2019 08:13
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Jaded Burnout posted:Not really, no. You'll need to keep an eye on whatever anti-rust filter thing you have (if any) on the boiler, other than that it's just bleed them regularly and, if my lifetime of living with them is any indication, overpaint them with thick globs of white paint taking special case to leave lots of thick gritty paint runs all over them. Yeah, they're thick iron pipes full of water. They will literally outlive you, your kids, and their kids. Also steam heat, best heat.
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Jan 28, 2019 19:30
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beep-beep car is go posted:Also steam heat, best heat.  If you have old radiators and one stops working, check the valve/inlet. Sometimes they get clogged or too dang old and will cause problems so the radiator won’t heat. It’s a cheap fix. The radiator itself is basically indestructible tho.
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Jan 28, 2019 20:03
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Are there any good resources for maintaining/dealing with hot water radiators? The house I’m buying has them so I’m aware of having to bleed them occasionally but I was wondering if there was more to deal with. You should also flush them every 5 years or so and then refill them with fresh corrosion inhibitor/additive. If you bleed a radiator and the water that comes out is black and disgusting then its overdue a flush.
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Jan 29, 2019 01:17
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I'm looking to tear out some linoleum and replace it with tile. It's on a subfloor and butts up to carpet. When I remove the linoleum to do the tile, I will put down cement board for the tile, but how do you deal with the new difference in height between the carpet/tile transition?
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Jan 31, 2019 17:52
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Faustian Bargain posted:I'm looking to tear out some linoleum and replace it with tile. It's on a subfloor and butts up to carpet. When I remove the linoleum to do the tile, I will put down cement board for the tile, but how do you deal with the new difference in height between the carpet/tile transition? By ripping everything out and redoing it, usually. Which side is going to be higher, tile or carpet? Could you put the tile direct onto the subfloor with some CI matting so you don't have to put down cement board?
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Jan 31, 2019 17:58
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Jaded Burnout posted:By ripping everything out and redoing it, usually. Even if I redid the subfloor, where the tile goes would either have cement board or this kind of matting raising it up, along with the tile thickness, right?
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Jan 31, 2019 18:50
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Faustian Bargain posted:Ripping out the subfloor doesn't sound practical. This would be the entire upstairs of my house. Yeah it's not fun. Faustian Bargain posted:Even if I redid the subfloor, where the tile goes would either have cement board or this kind of matting raising it up, along with the tile thickness, right? Yeah. I suggested the matting because it's thinner, but ultimately you're hamstrung by basic physics. If the tiles will be too high and you want the two things to line up you're going to have to either raise the carpet up or use thinner tiles/substrates or both.
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Jan 31, 2019 19:00
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Faustian Bargain posted:I'm looking to tear out some linoleum and replace it with tile. It's on a subfloor and butts up to carpet. When I remove the linoleum to do the tile, I will put down cement board for the tile, but how do you deal with the new difference in height between the carpet/tile transition? get thicker underlay for your carpet and make the transition line up with the door to the room? (my landing is new carpet with underlay and its close to 10mm higher than my bathroom which is 3mm ply and lino) Tomarse fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Jan 31, 2019 |
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Jan 31, 2019 19:00
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Thanks for the tips. The carpet is builder grade garbage so it's going to be removed and replaced anyway, so I will look at a thicker underlay.
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Jan 31, 2019 19:17
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So I think my front door isn't perfectly flat. There's obvious gaps around the edges, and in this -20 weather in NJ, I can feel cold air streaming through the edges. I'm pretty sure this house was just poorly constructed, but this is the main source of heat leaking. What are my choices for fixing this? I think I will ultimately need a new door, but is there anything I can do to at least minimize this draft until the spring? So far I think a can of spray rubber flex-seal would work and let me use the door, or I could at least use duct tape.
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Feb 1, 2019 18:46
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red19fire posted:So I think my front door isn't perfectly flat. There's obvious gaps around the edges, and in this -20 weather in NJ, I can feel cold air streaming through the edges. I'm pretty sure this house was just poorly constructed, but this is the main source of heat leaking. They make peel and stick rubber or foam weather stripping which should be both way easier to install and not as janky as something sprayed. Otherwise yeah masking tape.
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Feb 1, 2019 18:50
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red19fire posted:What are my choices for fixing this? I think I will ultimately need a new door, but is there anything I can do to at least minimize this draft until the spring? So far I think a can of spray rubber flex-seal would work and let me use the door, or I could at least use duct tape.
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Feb 1, 2019 19:19
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H110Hawk posted:They make peel and stick rubber or foam weather stripping which should be both way easier to install and not as janky as something sprayed. Otherwise yeah masking tape. Just a strip of the adhesive-backed weather stripping in that one jamb should make a big difference. Install it so the door compresses it when closed and it will seal up. Just know that weather stripping comes in a few thicknesses and it can make the door harder to close and latch.
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Feb 1, 2019 19:26
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Yeah just buy a few thicknesses (assuming stores still have any in stock / are open) and close the door on it. When one blocks the light, draft, and latches easily, install it permanently. Return the rest, or go around to your other doors and windows.
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Feb 1, 2019 19:30
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H110Hawk posted:Yeah just buy a few thicknesses (assuming stores still have any in stock / are open) and close the door on it. When one blocks the light, draft, and latches easily, install it permanently. Return the rest, or go around to your other doors and windows. This worked, I bought the thickest stuff they had. Still kind of a draft at the very bottom corner but its better than before.
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Feb 2, 2019 00:22
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red19fire posted:This worked, I bought the thickest stuff they had. Still kind of a draft at the very bottom corner but its better than before. Yay! You can probably find something in your house to mash into the corner as well to stop the draft entirely.
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Feb 2, 2019 01:10
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red19fire posted:So I think my front door isn't perfectly flat. There's obvious gaps around the edges, and in this -20 weather in NJ, I can feel cold air streaming through the edges. I'm pretty sure this house was just poorly constructed, but this is the main source of heat leaking. Copper weatherstrip works well also. Just nail or staple it on.
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Feb 2, 2019 01:44
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Apologies if this isn't the most appropriate thread. I'm in an apartment, and my water heater seems to slowly be giving me less and less shower time before the water gets cold. Are there any basic troubleshooting steps I can run through before I get maintenance involved? I have a vague memory of being able to hook a hose to them and suck out sediment from the bottom of the tank which would be reducing the fluid capacity, but that blurb is the extent of what I can call up on the subject. That's also the rough upper extent of what I'm intent on attempting by myself. Javid fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Feb 2, 2019 |
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Feb 2, 2019 04:52
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Don’t do anything yourself. Trying to service a heater that’s too far gone can damage it even worse.
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Feb 2, 2019 04:57
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Javid posted:I'm in an apartment Do you own the apartment? If not the answer is to call your landlord or property management.
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Feb 2, 2019 05:26
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Our old water heater crapped out after 15 years. Sometimes… they get their angel wings too soon…
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Feb 2, 2019 09:57
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Just picture in your head a broken water heater endlessly gushing water into your downstairs neighbors' apartments and you explaining to the management company how you were just trying to fix it without bothering them
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Feb 2, 2019 20:08
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I'm installing a range hood in my kitchen and I had to bore a 6" hold thru a solid 1.5" of plaster + lathe + the original wood shingling (lead paint flakes probably) + a rigid foam insulation layer + vinyl siding. It was pretty neato.
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Feb 3, 2019 02:31
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