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Motronic posted:You're not asking too much of tires, but you are asking way too much of all seasons. Wow, those aren't outrageously above my budget, honestly. Since the main concern is not getting stuck, is this a situation where I could put those on the drive wheels and normal tires on the steer wheels? If so we have a winner.
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Feb 4, 2019 21:05
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What would cause a battery to read 0 volts? Obviously I need to buy a new one, but there doesn't seem to be any damage to it. Car did not sit for long, and the weather has been mild. Edit: car is an '05 Imprezza I've had for 14 months. Battery has a 2016 sticker on it. Car started fine the last time I drove it Speleothing fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Feb 4, 2019 |
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Feb 4, 2019 21:13
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internal short circuit due to deep discharge, it doesn't take long. Batteries are heavily dependent on either regular use or maintenance charging. How long is "not long"?
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Feb 4, 2019 21:22
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0 volts? Dang.
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Feb 4, 2019 21:24
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C-Bangin' it 
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Like two or three days. Though it took a week for me to get a multimeter. Guess I should get the alternator checked out as soon as I can drive to a shop.
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Feb 4, 2019 21:38
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Javid posted:Wow, those aren't outrageously above my budget, honestly. I mean, you could, but consider that if your all-seasons can't get you moving, they're also going to have extremely limited ability to steer or stop you.
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Feb 4, 2019 21:50
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Speleothing posted:Like two or three days. Though it took a week for me to get a multimeter. Welp, a bad diode in an alternator can drain a battery within a minute to what you say. Blew my mind once I found one that did it.
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Feb 4, 2019 21:52
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Javid posted:Gonna re-ask a question from the summer for more feedback:  If you can go a wee-bit bigger and can up your budget by 60 bucks you can get a set of four BF Goodrich KO2s instead of cheap-o garbage stuff, in cart they show a price of 139.55 a tire with free shipping. I love these tires and this is always where I buy them. Plus, white letters! https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/bf-goodrich-lt235-75r15-tire-all-terrain-t-a-ko2-63647/_/R-BDKZ-63647
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Feb 5, 2019 02:33
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MrYenko posted:Fuel or spark. So after some testing it appears the car is intermittently going into "limp mode". Why it's limping is beyond me. I'm taking it to a friend's shop later this week to see why it wants to limp. He guessed, based on what I told him, that it was the coil packs. We shall see Wednesday.
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Feb 5, 2019 03:24
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nitsuga posted:I've been having some difficulties getting into first gear on my 2009 Honda Fit. I'll be at a stoplight, and when it's time to launch sometimes it just won't drop in. It started doing this last year, so I got the transmission oil changed on it, but that hasn't seemed to help. To clarify, it works most of the time, but not all of the time. Any ideas on what could be going on? Sorry to revive this on everybody, but it's been acting up some more now. I have been able to get it most of the time putting it in second then going into first before launching. Is it the synchros or something like that?
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Feb 5, 2019 03:28
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Untrustable posted:So after some testing it appears the car is intermittently going into "limp mode". Why it's limping is beyond me. I'm taking it to a friend's shop later this week to see why it wants to limp. He guessed, based on what I told him, that it was the coil packs. We shall see Wednesday. If it's going into limp, you would have multiple codes stored and either a steady or flashing check engine light. And limp is usually a rev limiter dropped to 2500 RPM, not a speed limiter. You said the tach is going apeshit at the same time that it acts up, right? That sounds a lot like a failing cam position sensor to me. The older Hondas with a distributor had an ignitor module inside the distributor that would fail and cause exactly that, but you don't have a distributor or ignitor. It could also be a coil that's intermittently shorting, but coils tend to act up pretty consistently once they get warm. Next time it happens, try to go straight to a parts store and have them pull codes, without you shutting the engine off before they pull codes. They may find pending codes. Alternatively, get a  generic OBD2 Bluetooth reader and download Torque (if you have an Android phone). If you have an iPhone, you'll need a wifi OBD2 reader instead; not sure what apps are out there for iOS, but they're out there.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:23 on Feb 5, 2019 |
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Feb 5, 2019 07:20
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Dash Command is pretty similar to Torque as far as what it gives the average user.
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Feb 5, 2019 08:21
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STR posted:The shuddering is either a glazed flywheel, glazed clutch, or a bad motor mount (most likely the firewall side). Or, oil on the flywheel. In any event, on a $500 beater, it's something you should just deal with (you could try replacing that mount, and it will help, but it's the most difficult one to do on a FWD car). Awesome, thank you! For the oil seal, I'd want one like this? I'd be worried about a catastrophic failure if I was going to drive it until it breaks (not that I'm gonna quit driving it altogether in the meantime, just lean heavily on the motorbike for the time being). The boot was torn for a good while, like 4+ months (I know...), but to the best of my knowledge I only got noticable noise at full lock recently. It's possible it's worse than I think so I'm trying to go as easy on it as I could. Good point on the gearbox oil, had forgotten about that (also a new cotter pin for axle nut).
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Feb 5, 2019 09:04
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I'd strongly suggest OEM over that, but only if the price point isn't too much higher. I know you guys pay a significant premium over what we do in the US, so I don't know if that's a decent price or not (that'd be reasonable for name brand aftermarket here). But yeah that's basically the seal you want.
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Feb 5, 2019 12:17
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Oh no, started the car (08 p71) up today and it's got a P0304 code, cylinder 4 misfire. At first revving it in park or gunning it down the street would make it stop, and it would flash the light at idle, but after just a few miles it's in all the time. Checked injector and coil plugs, cleaned them, no dice. I've confirmed the injector clicks when plugged in, so it's either coil or plug, that's easy. However, I've got to drive home for 15 miles or so tonight, freeway. Should I unplug that injector to keep from fouling my cats during that trip? There is no difference in idling sound or "steadiness" when I do so.
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Feb 5, 2019 13:24
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The PCM probably isn't smart enough to realize "oh hey that injector is showing open circuit, and it's showing a misfire on that cylinder, maybe I should change fuel trims accordingly but only for cylinder #4". If you're paranoid, turn off overdrive and lay into it a bit on the way home.
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Feb 5, 2019 13:28
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Nah, on the way to the hospital today it died completely, no amount of Italian tuneup would bring it back. Hence wondering if I should just unplug the injector. Sorry for this basic-rear end question.
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Feb 5, 2019 13:41
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Died as in you're on the side of the road, or died as in that cylinder is totally dead? If #2, then yeah, unplug the injector. Baby it on the way home, because the PCM is going to be trying to compensate for one cylinder moving only air by making the rest of that bank rich as gently caress. You did mention it has the revised intake manifold, right?
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Feb 5, 2019 13:56
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#2, I should have specified. And I've also got the revised manifold, cursory inspection with a flashlight this morning didn't reveal any coolant in that spark plug valley or signs of a leak. I put new coils on it when I got it, March 2017. Just one month shy of two years. I tend to follow the 80/20 rule for cheap parts (10 coils were $45 in 2017, but I've lost the two spares) so I just grabbed three new coils for $9 a pop on Amazon, they should be waiting for me when I get home.
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Feb 5, 2019 14:00
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Was gonna say, you got the cheap coils didn't you.  I think Denso may be the OEM for Motorcraft, if you want them to last, but they're $$$$. Everytime stepdad's F-150 shits out another coil (he did the 8 coils for $35ish deal), I tell him to swap on one of the originals (he threw all of them away, so I get to pull the "oh, yeah, you threw out 6 good coils" line) or order a Denso. So basically once a month now that it's been about 2 years.
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Feb 5, 2019 15:39
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Yeah, Denso is the OEM for those piles of poo poo. Cripes just reading this thread is jinxing my truck.
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Feb 5, 2019 15:47
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To be fair, if any coils were expected to go, #4 is it. The heater core hose goes right over the top of it, and even though I replaced the heater core hose when I picked it up, it still droops when hot and can actually touch the coil if you're not careful with wire wrapping. So, yeah. It's been baked.
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Feb 5, 2019 15:49
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Queen Combat posted:To be fair, if any coils were expected to go, #4 is it. The heater core hose goes right over the top of it, and even though I replaced the heater core hose when I picked it up, it still droops when hot and can actually touch the coil if you're not careful with wire wrapping. So, yeah. It's been baked. Yeah, everytime I get a stumble/check engine I pray to the gods..."Please don't be #4 please don't be #4" but that's on a truck and well your CV is trivial compared to it. But it's funny, the heater hose being the cause.
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Feb 5, 2019 15:52
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New coil from AutoZone fixed it. Maybe this is the reason from my drop from 20 to 14 mpg the last month? A dying coil? IDK.
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Feb 6, 2019 04:12
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Oh drat is this how much power the car is supposed to have? An illness that slowly takes over can be nearly unnoticed I guess.
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Feb 6, 2019 04:49
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This is a bit of a specific question... I have heard that volvos from the 1970s to the 1980s had an overdrive. Specifically an Laycock Overdrive. However, what I have not been able to find is a lot literature on the overdrive itself... Is there any literature out there specific to Laycock overdrives? Or do I have to pickup a workbook specific to the car that had that specific overdrive? (I have heard Laycock made an "A", "D", "LH", and "J" type over drive. I am particularly interested in A-type or J-type over drive at this time.
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Feb 6, 2019 05:48
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Can reusing torque-to-yield head bolts cause head gasket failure-like symptoms? Or is it just a matter of not wanting them to break?
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Feb 6, 2019 17:25
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Grakkus posted:Can reusing torque-to-yield head bolts cause head gasket failure-like symptoms? Or is it just a matter of not wanting them to break? It wouldn't be "like", it would literally cause a head gasket failure. The gasket can't do it's job if it isn't being clamped properly, and I would not expect reused TTY bolts to clamp properly anymore.
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Feb 6, 2019 18:31
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Car: 85 VW Scirocco 5 speed. It was 10°F today. When I tried to start the car, I turned the key and got nothing, not even a click. After a few more turns of the key it suddenly started, cranking normal and started the engine. The starter stayed somewhat engaged but not cranking for about 8 seconds and then finally let go. Soooo what’s the deal? Pinion alignment problem or should I get myself a new starter ready?
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Feb 7, 2019 07:18
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How accurate are the graphs on carcomplaints.com for determining reliability of a given model year? It's all user-submitted data, so I'm curious how well it lines up with actual industry data. I was looking at a 2010 Mazda3 and then I saw that year has the most complaints by quite a wide margin and got shook.
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Feb 7, 2019 15:03
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That was the first year of the second gen, and usually first year models have more issues than later ones. No idea on how well car complaints lines up with other measures though.
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Feb 7, 2019 15:57
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(Posting here in hopes of getting more eyeballs than my project thread) For those unaware, I'm nearing completion of an electric conversion of my 1977 Datsun 280Z. This has resulted in a change to the car's weight distribution, adding some to the rear and removing a good bit from the front. Here is front and rear ride height now:   Clearly, the front needs to be lowered a bit. But I'm NOT building this car for track/autocross/drifting/whatever. I just want a fun daily driver. So expensive fully adjustable coil over kits seem like overkill. What are my options for lowering the front end? I think the rear is fine where it is, perhaps it could come down an inch, though that's not a high priority at the moment. It's been suggested I cut the stock springs for now, but I've also been told that's an awful idea. (I should also note that as pictured it is with stock 14" wheels, but I plan on replacing them with 15x7". Current tires are 195/70/14, with the new wheels I'll go something like 215/60/15. This shouldn't change the outer diameter significantly but it's worth mentioning.)
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Feb 7, 2019 19:29
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bawfuls posted:It's been suggested I cut the stock springs for now, but I've also been told that's an awful idea. Yeah, it kinda is. Sounds like "measuring what I need and buying/having them made if no suitable ones exist" is probably the right option. Compare that price to adjustables.
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Feb 7, 2019 20:02
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Motronic posted:Yeah, it kinda is. Sounds like "measuring what I need and buying/having them made if no suitable ones exist" is probably the right option. Compare that price to adjustables. Agreed on all counts. Coilovers may seem like overkill but most vehicles don't have a wide range of springs to choose from that will fit in the factory location, and your car is now an extreme outlier for Z-car weight / distribution. Consider that most lowering springs are set up with spring rates for a much heavier nose, so while a normal drop spring will lower that a bit, it will also probably be way too stiff. Coilovers will let you adjust both the spring perch height and the spring rate. Alternatively, shove more batteries in the nose.
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Feb 7, 2019 21:26
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I posted the same question on the HybridZ forums as well, and the two recommendations were either a full custom coil over kit from someone like BC (looks like ~$1250), or an adjustable spring kit like this one from Cosmo. This Cosmo kit allegedly will not need modification and will sit in the stock perch, but will make for a harsh ride. Help me understand how coil overs can allow adjustable spring rate with the same spring? Is it as simple as how much or how little you pre-load the spring?
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Feb 7, 2019 22:00
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Wasn't there a mega-thread for people looking to buy a new / used car? Looking for suggestions in terms of models or what to look out for. I can't seem to find it, can someone point me to the right direction?
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Feb 7, 2019 22:52
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obi_ant posted:Wasn't there a mega-thread for people looking to buy a new / used car? Looking for suggestions in terms of models or what to look out for. I can't seem to find it, can someone point me to the right direction? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538
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Feb 7, 2019 22:53
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bawfuls posted:I posted the same question on the HybridZ forums as well, and the two recommendations were either a full custom coil over kit from someone like BC (looks like ~$1250), or an adjustable spring kit like this one from Cosmo. This Cosmo kit allegedly will not need modification and will sit in the stock perch, but will make for a harsh ride. You would need to adjust spring rate by swapping the spring - but any given coilover should have a solid selection of springs available, since the springs are now just custom fit to the shock assembly, not the car. The Viking coilovers going on my C10, for example, have springs available in free lengths from 4" to 14", and spring rates from 80lb to 850lb. The preload / shock perch height lets you set the ride height (within a range) independently of the spring rate and spring length. Edit: I don't know if coilovers largely standardize on any one dimension, but Summit Racing literally has 1487 different coil springs listed with a 2.5" inside diameter. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Feb 7, 2019 |
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Feb 7, 2019 22:54
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So I guess the next steps would be to get the weight at each wheel, and measure how much drop exactly I want, then I can turn those numbers into spring length/rate requirements?
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Feb 7, 2019 23:23
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There is more to picking a spring / damper combo than that, you might want to call someone like Ground Control and see what they'd recommend. I am guessing those BCs need to be welded to your existing knuckle and do not include one already.
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Feb 7, 2019 23:30
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