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AstroZamboni
Mar 8, 2007

Smoothing the Ice on Europa since 1997!
I hope y'all can help me with this...

I need guitar pots demystified because the ones in my instrument suck and I don't know what the best solution to my problem is. Researching the subject online has been utterly confusing and often contradictory. Some places recommend audio taper for volume and linear for tone and vice versa, but I don't know what's best for my particular issues.

For the record, this is the instrument in question:

https://eastwoodguitars.com/collections/tenor-guitars/products/warren-ellis-sig-tenor-2p

The current pots are crapass import mini pots. 500k, linear taper for the volume and audio taper for the tone with a .47 tone cap.

The problem is thus; the tone pot is really more of a two-way switch. From 0-2.5 it pretty much sounds like a dark circuit on the old telecasters, and above 2.5 it's uniformly bright across the board. No subtle gradations to either side of the 2.5 mark.

As it is, I can't just "roll off the tone a little bit." It's either uniformly bright or uniformly muffled.

Luckily the cavity is large enough to accommodate full size pots, but I'll probably have to stick to alpha pots because I don't know how to go about enlarging the hole on a steel control plate, although if anybody has any ideas about that I'd appreciate it too.

So basically, what should I do in terms of choosing linear or audio taper pots to alleviate the issues I'm having? I want to be able to have somewhat fine control over both volume and tone. Is that a pipe dream?

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Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

AstroZamboni posted:

I hope y'all can help me with this...

I need guitar pots demystified because the ones in my instrument suck and I don't know what the best solution to my problem is. Researching the subject online has been utterly confusing and often contradictory. Some places recommend audio taper for volume and linear for tone and vice versa, but I don't know what's best for my particular issues.

For the record, this is the instrument in question:

https://eastwoodguitars.com/collections/tenor-guitars/products/warren-ellis-sig-tenor-2p

The current pots are crapass import mini pots. 500k, linear taper for the volume and audio taper for the tone with a .47 tone cap.

The problem is thus; the tone pot is really more of a two-way switch. From 0-2.5 it pretty much sounds like a dark circuit on the old telecasters, and above 2.5 it's uniformly bright across the board. No subtle gradations to either side of the 2.5 mark.

As it is, I can't just "roll off the tone a little bit." It's either uniformly bright or uniformly muffled.

Luckily the cavity is large enough to accommodate full size pots, but I'll probably have to stick to alpha pots because I don't know how to go about enlarging the hole on a steel control plate, although if anybody has any ideas about that I'd appreciate it too.

So basically, what should I do in terms of choosing linear or audio taper pots to alleviate the issues I'm having? I want to be able to have somewhat fine control over both volume and tone. Is that a pipe dream?

Tone pots should be linear, volume should be audio. Sounds like they got switched.

Chip McFuck
Jul 24, 2007

We droppin' like a comet and this Vulcan tried to Spock it/These Martians tried to do it, but knew they couldn't cop it

Volume pots can be either, tone pots should be linear. Once you make the switch you'll have a much more useable tone control.

AstroZamboni
Mar 8, 2007

Smoothing the Ice on Europa since 1997!
Thank you both!

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

Try swapping the pots with each other before buying new ones. That way you'll know which kind of taper you prefer for your volume.

d0grent
Dec 5, 2004

So my truss rod is as tight as it can get and I still need less relief on my neck. I was instructed by the dude at the guitar shop to put the neck between two surfaces and hang some weight on it to bow the neck the opposite way and then loosen the truss rod again to get it to where I want it. So now I have it set up like this:



only issue is I have no idea how much weight I should be suspending this way. I looked it up and strings usually apply 100-200 pounds of pressure to the neck, so should I be trying to hang that much weight from the neck? Is this even going to work?

Baron von Eevl
Jan 24, 2005

WHITE NOISE
GENERATOR

🔊😴
Are you sure the issue is neck bend and not that you need to shim it slightly?

d0grent
Dec 5, 2004

The neck was pretty severely bowed so I don't think shimming will fix the issue properly although it may help a tad. I was getting a pitch difference of like 60 cents from the first to 12th fret.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

AstroZamboni posted:

Luckily the cavity is large enough to accommodate full size pots, but I'll probably have to stick to alpha pots because I don't know how to go about enlarging the hole on a steel control plate, although if anybody has any ideas about that I'd appreciate it too.
You could do it with a file. Strip it down then mark how much larger you need to go and take your time.

The more ideal tool would probably be a reamer. I found this one for pretty cheap, but it looks like it wouldn't be much good for steel.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Feb 5, 2019

Baron von Eevl
Jan 24, 2005

WHITE NOISE
GENERATOR

🔊😴

d0grent posted:

The neck was pretty severely bowed so I don't think shimming will fix the issue properly although it may help a tad. I was getting a pitch difference of like 60 cents from the first to 12th fret.

Woof. I would say some humidity might help make it a touch more pliable, but I'm guessing it's finished so that probably won't help much.

Chip McFuck
Jul 24, 2007

We droppin' like a comet and this Vulcan tried to Spock it/These Martians tried to do it, but knew they couldn't cop it

You should steam the neck for an hour then clamp/ratchet it flat against a smooth surface. The steam will make it much more pliable to the new position you'll be forcing it into. Leave it in the clamps for a day or two, then try out the truss rod. If it's still maxed, it might be a gonner.

Edit: I guess I should add, get a pro to do this if you're at all squeamish about it. Most techs I've talked to have said this is what they do with really bad truss issues

Chip McFuck fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Feb 5, 2019

Gnumonic
Dec 11, 2005

Maybe you thought I was the Packard Goose?

d0grent posted:

So my truss rod is as tight as it can get and I still need less relief on my neck. I was instructed by the dude at the guitar shop to put the neck between two surfaces and hang some weight on it to bow the neck the opposite way and then loosen the truss rod again to get it to where I want it. So now I have it set up like this:



only issue is I have no idea how much weight I should be suspending this way. I looked it up and strings usually apply 100-200 pounds of pressure to the neck, so should I be trying to hang that much weight from the neck? Is this even going to work?

Is this a particularly valuable guitar? Cuz I'd probably throw in the towel and get a new neck at this point, and I'm generally all for doing my own repairs.

rio
Mar 20, 2008

I had a guitar I did this with, weights and all, and I ran a humidifier in a closed room with it. Worked pretty well and haven’t had any issues since then. That was the opposite problem though with a back bow, not too much relief. If the truss rod is maxed and you are still having a large amount of relief then this method might not fix it for you and you’d have to have it worked on (and depending on the cost of the neck might be worth getting a new neck). At least it’s a bolt on.

Luna
May 31, 2001

A hand full of seeds and a mouthful of dirt


d0grent posted:

So my truss rod is as tight as it can get and I still need less relief on my neck. I was instructed by the dude at the guitar shop to put the neck between two surfaces and hang some weight on it to bow the neck the opposite way and then loosen the truss rod again to get it to where I want it. So now I have it set up like this:



only issue is I have no idea how much weight I should be suspending this way. I looked it up and strings usually apply 100-200 pounds of pressure to the neck, so should I be trying to hang that much weight from the neck? Is this even going to work?

I'm getting ready to do this to my Toronado neck. Please update with the results.

former glory
Jul 11, 2011

I've noticed my ~3 month old Les Paul produces a lot of hum especially when the gain is cranked or going through a distortion pedal. It has the '57 zebra humbuckers. The humming is reduced significantly when I touch the strings. Is the wiring F'd? My single coil tele doesn't hum like this does.

Chip McFuck
Jul 24, 2007

We droppin' like a comet and this Vulcan tried to Spock it/These Martians tried to do it, but knew they couldn't cop it

It's the wiring, but it should be simple to deduce what is wrong with it. Do you get the same hum in all pickup switch positions? Does the hum go away when you touch the bridge (without touching a string)? Did you try plugging your amp into a different outlet or using a different instrument cable?

My gut feeling says it's a grounding issue and that a solder connection got loose or went cold. Ground wires are usually black, so open up the cavity and gently pull on the black wires. If any of the connections move, or don't feel solid, then the connection needs to be resoldered. Resoldering is really easy, and shouldn't be too expensive if you want to bring it to a tech.

Switches can occasionally cause hum because the ground wire is loose/broke its connection, a wire was stripped too much or the switch itself is touching the wood of the guitar and causing a small short. If the hum goes away in some switch positions, but it's present in others, then the switch needs to be resoldered or replaced.

Elector_Nerdlingen
Sep 27, 2004



Every hum problem in every kit I've built has been a grounding or shielding fault.

They're not that hard to track down and fix even for a total beginner. A continuity tester (the shittiest 5 buck multimeter you can find will have one) makes it a lot easier. Once you eliminate grounding/shielding, you should be able to figure out if a pot or switch is hosed.

Keep on checking "is there a connection between this thing that should be grounded and the ground" until you find the bit/s that are causing the problem, then solder them on properly. Or be the disorganised shambling shitshow you want to see in the world, realise you have no solder and can't find your soldering iron, and stuff the offending gap with aluminium foil "just for tonight" then forget about it for a year because it's working, open the cavity to fix something else, and go "who the gently caress did tha... oh".

reversefungi
Nov 27, 2003

Master of the high hat!
Would it be a similar process to track down issues like noisy pots? Last weekend I switched out the battery for my active pickups and now I notice that when I touch (don't even have to move) my volume pots, there seems to be some scratching sounds. Doesn't happen when I mute my strings and touch the pot which is odd.

nishi koichi
Feb 16, 2007

everyone feels that way and gives up.
that's how they get away with it.
deoxit might be good for that crackling

Elector_Nerdlingen
Sep 27, 2004



The Dark Wind posted:

Would it be a similar process to track down issues like noisy pots? Last weekend I switched out the battery for my active pickups and now I notice that when I touch (don't even have to move) my volume pots, there seems to be some scratching sounds. Doesn't happen when I mute my strings and touch the pot which is odd.

Are the pots wobbly at all? Even just slightly? The "don't even have to move, just touch and it crackles" thing happened on an old yamaha I had and it was that the pots were "grounded" in that the housings touched the conductive paint shielding the cavities... sorta. I fixed it just by tightening them down a bit harder so they contacted properly.

But I'd probably try cleaning them all first in case that fixes it.

E: after you changed the battery but never before that? Is there a chance you knocked something loose or pulled a wire? Or maybe got a wire wedged under the control cavity cover, or something?

Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Feb 6, 2019

Gnumonic
Dec 11, 2005

Maybe you thought I was the Packard Goose?
So I've been lurking and reading this thread for years, and two of the most common things I've heard people say are "I don't write as much music as I want to" and "I don't have anyone to play with". Both of those things are true for me, anyway.

I was always sad I never got in on the SA rockstar stuff, and there's probably not enough momentum to do something like that anymore, but would anyone be interested in a weekly or biweekly or monthly...thing.. where we pick a chord progression (or just a key/mode) and a number of measures and share whatever we come up with? I think a lot of us could benefit from each other's criticism, and also I'm really curious as to what people would come up with. Less of a contest and more along the lines of a writing group.

Does that sound like something anyone would be down for?

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Definitely. I would only have very basic things to offer, but I’d be up for the challenge.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

nitsuga posted:

Definitely. I would only have very basic things to offer, but I’d be up for the challenge.

:same:

Pablo Nergigante
Apr 16, 2002

nitsuga posted:

Definitely. I would only have very basic things to offer, but I’d be up for the challenge.

Same here

former glory
Jul 11, 2011



Thanks guys, I'll crack it open later this week and start troubleshooting the grounding. I had a feeling something was up with it, but this forum has taught me that Gibson is the absolute pinnacle of quality and craftsmanship. It just seemed completely baffling that a brand new one would have an issue like this. :smugdog:

I've got enough experience with a soldering iron to sort it out, hopefully.

rio
Mar 20, 2008

Gnumonic posted:

So I've been lurking and reading this thread for years, and two of the most common things I've heard people say are "I don't write as much music as I want to" and "I don't have anyone to play with". Both of those things are true for me, anyway.

I was always sad I never got in on the SA rockstar stuff, and there's probably not enough momentum to do something like that anymore, but would anyone be interested in a weekly or biweekly or monthly...thing.. where we pick a chord progression (or just a key/mode) and a number of measures and share whatever we come up with? I think a lot of us could benefit from each other's criticism, and also I'm really curious as to what people would come up with. Less of a contest and more along the lines of a writing group.

Does that sound like something anyone would be down for?

I’ve written a decent amount of music over the years but one thing I’m really bad at is structuring time to write. It is always utilitarian, like there’s something on my mind so I wrote a song, there’s a group I’m playin with so I put together some tunes, an ensemble or new music concert so I write some chamber thing. So, if I can carve out time to participate I would definitely be down and at the very least even if I wasn’t participating I’d love to see what everyone else comes up with.

former glory posted:

Thanks guys, I'll crack it open later this week and start troubleshooting the grounding. I had a feeling something was up with it, but this forum has taught me that Gibson is the absolute pinnacle of quality and craftsmanship. It just seemed completely baffling that a brand new one would have an issue like this. :smugdog:

I've got enough experience with a soldering iron to sort it out, hopefully.

Are you besmirching the name of m’Gibson? Their QC is unmatched.

Elector_Nerdlingen
Sep 27, 2004



rio posted:

Are you besmirching the name of m’Gibson? Their QC is unmatched.

That's right, it has no equal.

Git Mah Belt Son
Apr 26, 2003

Happy Happy Gators
I'm considering a mid-priced semi-hollow for classic rock/blues stuff. Right now I've got the Epiphone Dot, ES335 Pro, and Sheraton on my list as well as the Ibanez AS73. Also kind of considering Gretsch, but I don't think it's my bag.

Really just looking for something that does mid-gain and cleans well and has good enough electronics that the pots are usable.

I have a 1997 Epi Dot currently that I love the feel of, but the pickups are very poor and the electronics are next to useless so I'd have to gut it. I don't want to bother with swapping out electronics on it since semi hollows are a major pain to deal with.

Anything I'm forgetting that I should try out? Anything in the $500-700 range people recommend?

Gnumonic
Dec 11, 2005

Maybe you thought I was the Packard Goose?
Ok so, given that there seems to be at least some interest in a group music writing/criticism thing, I'll throw together a nice graphic and some guidelines in the next day or two.

I think it's probably a good idea to start simple, so I suggest that the first "challenge" be in A minor pentatonic (every guitarist has to know that scale, right?). Sound good? Personally I'm going to try to write something that sounds as un-blues-ey as I can.

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

Git Mah Belt Son posted:

I have a 1997 Epi Dot currently that I love the feel of, but the pickups are very poor and the electronics are next to useless so I'd have to gut it. I don't want to bother with swapping out electronics on it since semi hollows are a major pain to deal with.
How much would it cost you to buy better parts and pay a tech to install them?

Git Mah Belt Son
Apr 26, 2003

Happy Happy Gators

Siivola posted:

How much would it cost you to buy better parts and pay a tech to install them?

It's a possibility but it'd be expensive. Semi hollows are a pain to work on since everything has to go in and out of the f hole. You'd be looking at $60-100 for a harness, $100-200 for mid range pickups, and another $100-$120 in labor. So figure $260 on the low end and $400 on the high?

Lawen
Aug 7, 2000

Git Mah Belt Son posted:

I'm considering a mid-priced semi-hollow for classic rock/blues stuff. Right now I've got the Epiphone Dot, ES335 Pro, and Sheraton on my list as well as the Ibanez AS73. Also kind of considering Gretsch, but I don't think it's my bag.

Really just looking for something that does mid-gain and cleans well and has good enough electronics that the pots are usable.

I have a 1997 Epi Dot currently that I love the feel of, but the pickups are very poor and the electronics are next to useless so I'd have to gut it. I don't want to bother with swapping out electronics on it since semi hollows are a major pain to deal with.

Anything I'm forgetting that I should try out? Anything in the $500-700 range people recommend?

The Sheraton Pro II is pretty darn good out of the factory. The ProBuckers aren't the best pickups ever but they're solid and the coil split push/pull pots give you some new sound options. They ship with a GraphTech nut and Grover tuners. And they're dead fuckin' sexy IMO, especially that new Midnight Sapphire finish. I also really like their super-slim and flat neck shape and 12" radius. I haven't played one of the new ones with the Pau Ferro fretboard, I think they were all rosewood up until a year or three ago, but I'm sure the new wood is fine

Some of the lower-end Gretsch stuff (GT542X models or the Jet GT62XX models if you're okay without f-holes) are great for their price but most have TVJones/Filter-tron pups which may not be the sound you're looking for. You could also look into the Ibanez Artcore stuff. Not as good as the Epi but you can get them used for a really good price.

That said, you could almost certainly pay someone to install a new wiring harness and pups on your Dot for a good bit cheaper than even a used Sheraton II Pro or Gretsch.

d0grent
Dec 5, 2004

Luna posted:

I'm getting ready to do this to my Toronado neck. Please update with the results.

I let it sit like that for 3 days and there's no descernible difference. I think if you want it to actually work you'll need at least 100 pounds of weight. I only had 40 available.

OutOfPrint
Apr 9, 2009

Fun Shoe
You could also check out the Xaviere line on Guitar Fetish. As always with a guitar you order online, read reviews, but my Xaviere p-bass knockoff came only needing some minor adjustment to the truss rod. They have Casino knockoffs in humbuckers or p90s, too, depending on your preference.

Their rockabilly semi-hollows have retrotron pickups, which are probably a little too bright for what you're going for. I have one in the bridge of an artcore semi-hollow, and it sounds more like a less twangy strat than a traditional humbucker.

rio
Mar 20, 2008

I haven’t shipped a guitar for a long time but have bought many in the past few years and I was shocked how inexpensive it was to ship via USPS. An archtop with heavy cast and lots of padding was a little over 20 lbs in box and with insurance it was only like 60 bucks to ship it. The clerk was surprised too and I’m wondering if he messed something up because he wasn’t a normal clerk I think - the normal counter people weren’t there and after about 5 minutes he kind of bumbled out of the back to help me so perhaps there was a mistake. Without insurance it would have only been 42 dollars!

Granted all of the guitars I’ve bought from private sellers have come from UPS or FedEx so maybe they just charge more but I was paying around 100 bucks for shipping when buying. I would have probably dealt less with craigslist people if I knew shipping was this affordable.

skooma512
Feb 8, 2012

You couldn't grok my race car, but you dug the roadside blur.
Pulled out my acoustic to play some Weakerthans but the fret ends are really stabby all of a sudden. We've been getting tons of rain the last couple weeks and my gauge has been showing no less than 45% for a long time.

Hopefully humidifying the poo poo out of it will make it go away. My tele is in the shop for the ding as it is and I'd rather not throw more money at repair work.

sensy v2.0
May 12, 2001

I'm just gonna type some words about the Strandberg Classic 6 Trem I've had for a little over a week now.

It's... really good. It's super light, I like the body shape and how it allows for more positions than any other guitar I've tried, it's acoustically really loud, but mostly OH MY GOD THE NECK. The fan fret took some getting used to, but the trapezoid shape is just amazing. It feels thick and great for chords and super thin where and when you want it to. I'm just blown away at how good it suits me.

Rifter17
Mar 12, 2004
123 Not It
Strandberg used to post on https://www.projectguitar.com and showcase his first builds, but I can't find his original posts. I always thought they were super cool and well thought out. I still find it strange that his design got so much traction since it is so weird.

I'm really considering a Strandberg Classic 8 for some live looping and (maybe someday) Charlie Hunter style playing. Any other recommendations for a bass-guitar hybrid instrument that isn't a complete custom job or too metal? I'm looking for 8-strings and fanned frets. Maybe a Kiesel would fit the bill.

nishi koichi
Feb 16, 2007

everyone feels that way and gives up.
that's how they get away with it.
is 130-140 reasonable for a setup? seems pretty steep... only heard of about 70-80 max. i've always done my own setups but i'd like to see how a pro would do it, then replicate that

edit, his demeanor also made it kind of clear that i wasn't the particular "clientele" he's looking for, so i guess i should look elsewhere in this dumb town

nishi koichi fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Feb 13, 2019

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Mak0rz
Aug 2, 2008

😎🐗🚬

bad posts ahead!!! posted:

is 130-140 reasonable for a setup? seems pretty steep... only heard of about 70-80 max. i've always done my own setups but i'd like to see how a pro would do it, then replicate that

In the US? That seems extremely steep. I just had mine done for $108.59 Canadian all-in (so about $82.10 USD) and that includes a hidden restring charge and a pack of Elixers.

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