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Tensokuu posted:So would this be a better alternative? Your mobo has six SATA ports so you should be fine, those SSDs are good.
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Feb 7, 2019 03:33
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Tensokuu posted:So would this be a better alternative? If you really want a Samsung 500GB NVMe drive, look into the 970 EVO Plus they just put out. The performance of the original 250 and 500GB 970 EVOs was disappointing compared to the 960s. They're still fast, they're just not stellar. The Plus series rectifies that: https://www.rakuten.com/shop/thekeykey/product/225618/ or http://www.macmall.com/p/Samsung-El...09a00620a240614 Another option: WD Black SN750. 970 Pro-like performance, $130 for the 500GB. And yeah, no qualms with the MX500. SATA III drives are at the very upper end of performance they can offer, and all of the new ones are delivering similar IOPS numbers now, so it's a matter of buying a good name with good warranty support. As for those messages - that just comes with the territory. Consult your motherboard's manual to see which SATA port(s) are disabled by using your M.2 slot(s). BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Feb 7, 2019 |
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Feb 7, 2019 03:38
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Any suggestions on a surge protector? I would need something with 8 or so plugins. Will be building a new (probably) i7 system with a 2070 or 2080.
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Feb 7, 2019 05:53
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strategery posted:Any suggestions on a surge protector? I would need something with 8 or so plugins. Will be building a new (probably) i7 system with a 2070 or 2080. TrippLite ISOBAR are a bit pricey, but they're absolute goddamned *tanks*. They do make them in eight plug. Also, you really should be considering a UPS of ~1000VA+ to go along with a system.
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Feb 7, 2019 06:02
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What is going on with so many newer cases having solid front panels with no ventilation? Doesn’t that kill air flow? I see some vents around the side of the front panel but that doesn’t seem like enough especially if they’re trying to advertise you can put a radiator up front. Makes no sense, it’s like we took a step backwards in case design.
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Feb 7, 2019 08:22
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Coredump posted:What is going on with so many newer cases having solid front panels with no ventilation? Doesn’t that kill air flow? I see some vents around the side of the front panel but that doesn’t seem like enough especially if they’re trying to advertise you can put a radiator up front. Makes no sense, it’s like we took a step backwards in case design. Some of the cases are quite good at intake despite the closed-off front, but for someone who needs to run a computer in a room with a moderate-to-high ambient, it's usually best to have a case with maximized intake. That being said, most cases are now specifically designed to make maximum use of any intake and exhaust warm air out passive vents through positive pressure. No case that I know of has un-vented slot covers anymore, and almost every case back and bottom is swiss-cheesed to aid in passive heat elimination (by allowing cooler air to flow upward, usually into the PSU's intake fan) while most cases have provisions for radiators or exhaust fans on top to *actively* aid in eliminating hot air through the universally known fact of "heat rises." That being said, however - some people overdo it with top-mounted exhaust fans. If you don't have a radiator up there, you should honestly only have one exhaust fan above your CPU, as another 1-2 in front of it would unintentionally exhaust colder air coming in from the front panel fans. Exceptions would be if your case is usable horizontally, like my old Corsair Air 540. With that, I had four 140mms intaking on the front and sides and only *one* 140mm (aided by the two 140s on my TR Silver Arrow) exhausting. ----- Also, since it's been a while - when you're placing your computer, there are some "thermal tips" to follow: 1. If possible, place your computer in a spot where there's at least one foot/0.3m of open space behind it (or six inches at bare minimum around ALL sides), and preferably a clear channel up to the ceiling of the room it's in for the heat to rise. Modern cases are rather good at eliminating heat, but that heat has to have room to dissipate both horizontally and vertically. What killed so many XBoxes also kills a ton of computers - no one ever pays attention to the manual that ~strongly advises~ the end user to give the console a minimum of three inches of open air on the sides and an unobstructed exhaust channel. If you have your case flush up against the wall or the area immediately above it closed off by the top of a desk, all that exhausted heat is going to get trapped in that space and inhibit the ability of the fans and case to exhaust that heat. That's why it's called a *heat trap*. 2. Place your case as low to the ground as you can - remember, cooler air sinks, hotter air rises - without having it sink into carpet (if applicable), and if it's flush with the floor, consider some rubber feet (if the case doesn't already use them) to not only add additional space for the PSU fan intake holes to do their job, but also to help minimize ~vibration~. 3. Always have more air going *into* your case than is being exhausted *out* of it, as this aids with eliminating heat far more efficiently than tons of active exhaust channels. As said above, modern cases (with some exceptions) are designed to passively exhaust most case heat before it gets trapped and stagnates. Don't overdo it with regards to 'over-fanning' your case, and consider using an active fan controller (or make use of your BIOS' PWM controls) to set fan curves to manage the noise and only spin up the fans noticeably during loads. 4. Buy *good* fans if the ones that come with your case are thought to be less than stellar (Fractal's included fans are regarded as 'above average') - as the cheaper they are, the more likely it is they'll crap out inside of three years' time, and it's always far better to buy fans with a 3-5 year warranty that cost a bit more, as that "little bit more" is usually ~2.5x the cost of a cheap and lovely fan. The Corsair ML120/140 two-packs aren't a terrible deal, and you can snag adequate soft rubber washers to replicate the vibration dampeners that are the *sole* reason the Pros cost more. Just be sure to check that your motherboard/fan controller has enough PWM (4-pin, vs. the classic 3-pin) ports to run them.
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Feb 7, 2019 09:49
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RobotsLoveSpectres posted:before I pull the trigger, could you guys give your opinions on this please? I just built something very similar. Only thing would be see if you can get a Sapphire 580 for around the same price point. Armor versions are about the worst versions of the aftermarket 480/580. Generally perfectly fine but you will get more performance out of an upmarket version like Sapphire and generally a better build. Beware of how huge the 580 is though you'll find it covers about half of your mobo's SATA connections rendering then unusable. 480/580 (the performance difference is actually quite small between generations) are also cheap as dirt second hand. A 470 motherboard isn't strictly necessary for the parts you're sticking into it. If it's for future proofing all good but you could easily save some $$$ by dropping to a 450.
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Feb 7, 2019 13:12
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Coredump posted:What is going on with so many newer cases having solid front panels with no ventilation? Doesn’t that kill air flow? I see some vents around the side of the front panel but that doesn’t seem like enough especially if they’re trying to advertise you can put a radiator up front. Makes no sense, it’s like we took a step backwards in case design. Yes, it kills airflow, and can cause components to throttle. It's stupid.
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Feb 7, 2019 15:08
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All that fan chat made me shudder. I went through a period of time where I was airflow obsessed and was CONSTANTLY loving with cable management, buying new fans, staring at temps, adding more fans, and on and on. My original case came with OEM fans, and I convinced myself I had to replace all of them with Noctua fans. Then I added another case fan on the side window. Then another on the top. Then I replaced my 212 Hyper with a gigantic, double tower Phanteks CPU cooler. I was sick. Now I just have 2 intakes up front, and 1 exhaust in the back, I don't watch temps, and I don't stress about it anymore. (Though I still have that massive cooler and am kind of a stickler with cable management.)
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Feb 7, 2019 15:49
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Next case will just be 80/20 extrusion, downdraft heat sinks, and a 20 inch box fan making up one side of the case. Edit: basically this 
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Feb 7, 2019 16:00
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Would I be crazy to upgrade from a 970 to a 1070? I can get used EVGA 1070s on ebay all day around $225 and that seems like a really drat good deal compared to a rtx 2060 at $350..
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Feb 7, 2019 18:54
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Captain Yossarian posted:Would I be crazy to upgrade from a 970 to a 1070? I can get used EVGA 1070s on ebay all day around $225 and that seems like a really drat good deal compared to a rtx 2060 at $350..
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Feb 7, 2019 19:20
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Saros posted:Beware of how huge the 580 is though you'll find it covers about half of your mobo's SATA connections rendering them unusable. They're still usable on my mobo with my 580, but you have to pull the graphics card out to access them and route the cables carefully.
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Feb 7, 2019 19:28
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future ghost posted:I went from a 390 (kinda comparable to a 970) to a 1070 and ended up with a decent 15-20+fps boost in everything, so it should give you a nice performance bump depending on your resolution. I'd look at a 1070ti instead for warranty length reasons at this point. I was thinking about the 1070 ti, but the used market is terrible on them again. They are all going for >$300 and I'd rather just buy new at that point ya know? I am currently just 1080p 60 but looking at some free sync options for the future
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Feb 7, 2019 19:37
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Captain Yossarian posted:I was thinking about the 1070 ti, but the used market is terrible on them again. They are all going for >$300 and I'd rather just buy new at that point ya know? Edit: yeah maybe wait a week for the new cards to see pricing. vvv future ghost fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Feb 7, 2019 |
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Feb 7, 2019 20:14
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Captain Yossarian posted:I was thinking about the 1070 ti, but the used market is terrible on them again. They are all going for >$300 and I'd rather just buy new at that point ya know? If you have a decent PSU and are interested in Resident Evil 2, The Division 2, and Devil May Cry 5, the Power Color Red Dragon Vega 56 is $330 and includes those three games. The Vega 56 is roughly a 2060 plus 2GB RAM minus RTX (so ~15% boost over the 1070). For 1080p/60Hz, even a 1070 is going to be mostly overkill, though there are a few games that won't run a totally stable 60Hz/Ultra on a 1060/580. If you don't have any particular games you're using it for right now it might be worth seeing if the 1660 cards drop prices further. They're literally launching next week!
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Feb 7, 2019 20:30
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I have a Ryzen build and it's driving me insane. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Walmart) CPU Cooler: EVGA - CLC 280 113.5 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($112.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus - ROG STRIX X470-I GAMING Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($197.87 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($219.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 970 Evo 250 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Crucial - MX500 2 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($278.99 @ SuperBiiz) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card ($778.89 @ OutletPC) Case: Fractal Design - Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($56.35 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair - 760 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($179.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $2082.95 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-07 15:42 EST-0500 The problem is that the machine will freeze up doing normal browsing/office tasks. It doesn't seem to have any issues under any sort of load and it will run stable while streaming two OBS sessions simultaneously. I did a full test with memtest86 a month or so ago and the Ram runs fine at XMP settings with ram voltage at 1.45 volts. Since then whenever it's had an issue I would drop the performance enhancer and ram frequency. Finally today it locked up twice, just doing regular office stuff (libreoffice and chrome). The second time was after I reduced all the ram timings to 'auto' and the performance enhancer to 'auto'. Precision boost overdrive is off. I upgraded to the newest bios last month. The only thing I'm suspecting is that maybe the power supply is failing. It's a 5 year old power supply from my last build, but other than that I'm at a loss. Does anyone have any ideas?
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Feb 7, 2019 21:53
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ProfessorBooty posted:I have a Ryzen build and it's driving me insane. If it's 5 years old it still has 2 years left on the warranty. You should be able to get it replaced under warranty if that's the issue. What OS are you running, and how long has it been since you refreshed/reinstalled it? BTW performance enhancer to "Auto" still causes it to run with higher voltages and frequencies than specified by AMD anyways. You have to set it to "Default" to cause it to not run outside of spec. It is possible that libreoffice has a bug which is hardlocking your system, if it blue screened you would be able to get a dump file that would tell you the actual culprit, but if you look at the windows error logs you might be able to determine which program is causing the hang anyways as long as you know when the lockup happened. orange juche fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Feb 7, 2019 |
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Feb 7, 2019 23:18
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orange juche posted:If it's 5 years old it still has 2 years left on the warranty. You should be able to get it replaced under warranty if that's the issue. I'll change it default tonight. It is running windows 10 professional. I installed it in October last year. I was thinking it might be the ram because I don't remember seeing it on the QVL (silly me when I planned the build) but I think even if it's not on the QVL it should run fine at default non-XMP settings?
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Feb 7, 2019 23:24
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ProfessorBooty posted:I'll change it default tonight. It is running windows 10 professional. I installed it in October last year. If you run it through memtest86 for a couple hours and it doesn't lock up or throw ANY errors, it's not your RAM, it's another part in your build (mobo/psu/whatever), or an application. Check the RAM, and then check the OS logs for application errors. You said something that is in common between all the lockups in that you were using office software during each time it locked up (libreoffice), so I would think that libreoffice is involved in your PC issues.
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Feb 7, 2019 23:41
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orange juche posted:If you run it through memtest86 for a couple hours and it doesn't lock up or throw ANY errors, it's not your RAM, it's another part in your build (mobo/psu/whatever), or an application. Check the RAM, and then check the OS logs for application errors. In the past I don't believe libreoffice has been a common denominator but I do typically open up libreoffice calc once a day. I guess it wouldn't hurt trying different software in the short term to see if that alleviates it - I mention it today because it was especially frustrating when I was working on several documents at once. I suppose I'm going to try updating the chipset drivers and other miscellaneous things, then I'll set the performance enhancer to default. I really don't want to have to mess with the cable management but I suppose if the power supply is the only other option then that's that.
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Feb 7, 2019 23:50
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8700ks are sitting at $307 vs $268 for 9600ks on Amazon. Worth getting a 8700k? Also they'll work on a z390 board right?
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Feb 7, 2019 23:53
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Captain Yossarian posted:Would I be crazy to upgrade from a 970 to a 1070? I can get used EVGA 1070s on ebay all day around $225 and that seems like a really drat good deal compared to a rtx 2060 at $350.. I would suggest waiting for the 1660s which are supposedly coming out on the 15th. There'll be a standard version that uses GDDR5X and a Ti that uses GDDR6. That being said, the 1660s will be using 6GB of memory to the 1070's 8GB. But I agree with the sentiment that you have to assume all 1070s at this point are off warranty or *nearly* off warranty. E2M2 posted:Also they'll work on a z390 board right? Yup. Consider sending your 8700K off to Silicon Lottery for $40 - they'll delid, LM, and bench your chip for you, telling you what voltages they used to get what results. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Feb 8, 2019 |
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Feb 7, 2019 23:58
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Consider sending your 8700K off to Silicon Lottery for $40 - they'll delid, LM, and bench your chip for you, telling you what voltages they used to get what results. Does LM between die and heat spreader have any aging concerns, or is it likely to be good for the 6-10 year lifetime of the chip?
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Feb 8, 2019 00:13
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Stickman posted:Does LM between die and heat spreader have any aging concerns, or is it likely to be good for the 6-10 year lifetime of the chip? The general consensus seems to be that it's good for 3-5+ years, and SL will be doing it correctly. https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3359-liquid-metal-aging-one-year-test-how-often-to-replace-liquid-metal ----- In other news, Walmart is selling the 2600X with a free copy of Division 2 for $179.99: https://www.walmart.com/ip/AMD-CPU-Ryzen-5-2600X-YD260XBCAFBOX-Tom-Clancy-s-The-Division-2-Free-Game-Bundle/589567387 BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 07:04 on Feb 8, 2019 |
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Feb 8, 2019 00:17
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Okay, my 5+ year old mobo has, after a lot of testing, definitely crapped out, and keeps tripping the entire system. Might as well take the opportunity to build something new. Looking to keep: Fractal R5 case, because it's a tank Asus GTX970 GFX card, because it isn't very old. Samsung 256gb 830 series SSD Other components are all 5+ years old and probably worth upgrading. Budget up to £700 GBP and I'm in the UK. Used as a general purpose and gaming machine up to 1080p, and no real plans to go buying bigger monitors any time soon. I'm very out of the loop, what's the current hotness? edit: Would this be a good starting point for a build? https://www.cclonline.com/product/228594/MBB-AMD-RYZEN2/NoCat/CCL-Gamer-Ryzen-5X-AMD-Motherboard-Bundle/MBB-AMD-RYZEN2/ Spuckuk fucked around with this message at 13:59 on Feb 8, 2019 |
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Feb 8, 2019 11:19
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Spuckuk posted:Okay, my 5+ year old mobo has, after a lot of testing, definitely crapped out, and keeps tripping the entire system. If you don't want to replace any other components you can get away with way less than £700. In fact you can almost squeeze a 27" 1440p 144Hz monitor upgrade into the budget too - they can be had for under £400 these days (not saying you necessarily should, just throwing it out there). The bundle you linked is a great starting point for a value build, but you can make some minor tweaks and get a bit more value for less money if you shop around, like for example: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor (£144.95 @ AWD-IT) Motherboard: MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard (£98.99 @ Ebuyer) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£120.76 @ More Computers) Total: £364.70 Which would give you slightly faster RAM for a bit less money. The motherboard in the bundle you linked is a bit more than you really need for an R5 2600/2600X if you don't plan on overclocking. You can put some of the excess budget towards a bigger SSD, if you want - you can get 1TB SATA SSD's for just over £100 now. You can also get a new PSU, if the warranty on your old one has ran out or is about to run out. Get an 80+ Gold certified one with a 10 year warranty (Seasonic Focus Plus, EVGA G2/whatever they're called, Corsair RMx). 550W is enough for a build like yours.
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Feb 8, 2019 15:29
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TheFluff posted:If you don't want to replace any other components you can get away with way less than £700. In fact you can almost squeeze a 27" 1440p 144Hz monitor upgrade into the budget too - they can be had for under £400 these days (not saying you necessarily should, just throwing it out there). The bundle you linked is a great starting point for a value build, but you can make some minor tweaks and get a bit more value for less money if you shop around, like for example: Great help, thanks! The old PSU is out of warranty, so I'll add one into the mix as well. That mobo should be good for a generation or two of CPUs if I'm reading the thread right?
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Feb 8, 2019 15:53
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I'm not sure if I'm in the right thread for this, but I'm looking to get a cheapo refurbished desktop, I'll probably only use for school work, emulators (and probably only up to PS2, if that), and maybe some LP stuff. I'm not sure where to start looking, though, or how to know if I'm looking at a good deal or not. I'm in the US, I like Windows, and I'm not wanting to spend a ton of money. If I'm in the wrong thread, I'm sorry.
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Feb 8, 2019 22:56
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Leavemywife posted:I'm not sure if I'm in the right thread for this, but I'm looking to get a cheapo refurbished desktop, I'll probably only use for school work, emulators (and probably only up to PS2, if that), and maybe some LP stuff. I'm not sure where to start looking, though, or how to know if I'm looking at a good deal or not. Go on ebay and look for machines that are used in office settings (dell optiplex, hp pro, etc). Find a surplus vendor as they usually have warranties and competitive pricing since they're offloading piles of the same machine.
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Feb 9, 2019 00:08
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PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($691.69 @ Vuugo) Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z390 AORUS ELITE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($209.00 @ Canada Computers) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($333.96 @ Mike's Computer Shop) Storage: Samsung - 960 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($399.88 @ Canada Computers) Total: $1634.53 (CANADIAN) Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-08 18:12 EST-0500 So I'm looking at upgrading my older system from 2012. I'm having trouble on the motherboard mostly, I don't need WIFI and what matters most is USB slots because I really want to stop using my USB card for VR gaming. I think the Aorus Elite is a good package but obviously with this price range on products I wouldn't care about another 50-100$ I'm at the age where I make good money but not enough time to play as much games as I want.. So might as well do it as fast as possible. I have a case already, have all the rest of the stuff i'll use from my old build include 1000w corsair power supply and such. I think my Noctua DH15 will still fit the CPU. I'm currently looking at just buying this stuff and then upgrading graphics card from 980 Ti a little later (october maybe.. usually wait to see what the new revision might be?) What's this i just read about Samsung 970 Evos being garbage? My current SSD from Intel at 480gig costed like 700$ back in 2012 because the OCZ drives were bluescreening. I care more about stability than speed.
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Feb 9, 2019 00:18
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AgentCow007 posted:Go on ebay and look for machines that are used in office settings (dell optiplex, hp pro, etc). Find a surplus vendor as they usually have warranties and competitive pricing since they're offloading piles of the same machine. Cool, thank you. I think I found one that'll work for what I'll be doing. Just to be sure, this one is refurbished, comes with 4GB of RAM, 160GB hard drive, a two core processor at 3GHZ, and Windows 7, right? Sorry if this is a stupid question.
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Feb 9, 2019 00:46
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TipsyMcStagger posted:What's this i just read about Samsung 970 Evos being garbage? My current SSD from Intel at 480gig costed like 700$ back in 2012 because the OCZ drives were bluescreening. I care more about stability than speed. The 1TB (and larger) 970 EVOs are fine. The 250 and 500GB SKUs had corners cut on them and they're not stellar drives, especially now that they've got so much more competition. Samsung rectified those cut corners with the 970 EVO Plus, but those haven't really hit the retail channel en masse yet. Other NVMe (and also ask yourself if you really *need* NVMe) drives to consider at a similar or lower price point: 1. Western Digital SN750 2. Pretty much any drive using the Phison E12 controller (Corsair MP510, MyDigitalSSD BPX Pro) 3. HP EX920 Also, most NVMe drives can/will benefit from passive cooling, so consider getting your hands on a heatsink for them.
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Feb 9, 2019 00:55
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Leavemywife posted:I'm not sure if I'm in the right thread for this, but I'm looking to get a cheapo refurbished desktop, I'll probably only use for school work, emulators (and probably only up to PS2, if that), and maybe some LP stuff. I'm not sure where to start looking, though, or how to know if I'm looking at a good deal or not. What's your budget? Can't make any recommendation at all without knowing how much you are willing to spend for said desktop. But yeah office surplus is a good recommendation. Do mind that a used office PC may not come with a hard drive, or RAM, and won't have an OS, because usually those things are stripped out as part of the removal from the inventory system of whatever company. orange juche fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Feb 9, 2019 |
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Feb 9, 2019 01:21
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Leavemywife posted:Cool, thank you. I think I found one that'll work for what I'll be doing. I wouldn't want to settle on dual core and 4GB on this era, I would try to look for i5 quad core and 8GB. An SSD is also much preferable to a spinning HDD, but that can be left for later. Quad core is most important, upgrading the CPU later wouldn't be worth the effort. RAM is quite easy to upgrade later, but you need to pay attention to compatibility and RAM prices for this generation machines is probably starting to rise, so it could better to get 8GB from the start. Any SATA SSD with enough space for your stuff can be used and the upgrade is pretty simple with Macronis Reflect, so you can give it up for now and upgrade later when you happen to come across a SSD for acceptable price. Windows 7 is fine, since you can still upgrade it to Win 10. Shipping is a nasty hit for machines at this price. I would probably use eBay to do market research, check what is available and for what prices, and then try to hit any local computer recycling operations. Something like this Dell OptiPlex 790 seems better option. I'm not familiar with Optiplexes from this generation, but we have been quite happy HP Elite 8000 and newer models at work, and I doubt Dell could afford to be lesser quality.
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Feb 9, 2019 01:32
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TipsyMcStagger posted:What's this i just read about Samsung 970 Evos being garbage? My current SSD from Intel at 480gig costed like 700$ back in 2012 because the OCZ drives were bluescreening. I care more about stability than speed. Indiana_Krom fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Feb 9, 2019 |
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Feb 9, 2019 01:59
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orange juche posted:What's your budget? Can't make any recommendation at all without knowing how much you are willing to spend for said desktop. I'd like to spend less than $200, and I think I see a lot of options for that. The thing is, I don't really know how to shop for a computer. I have some extra RAM in the machine I have now (which is out of commission), so I think I can switch that over, but I don't really know. I'm just looking for something inexpensive, that I can do homework on, shitpost with, and use for emulators. Optimally for under $200.
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Feb 9, 2019 02:08
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orange juche posted:What's your budget? Can't make any recommendation at all without knowing how much you are willing to spend for said desktop. You think going to ebay and looking for the best Dell Optiplex for the budget would be the way to go?
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Feb 9, 2019 02:28
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Leavemywife posted:I'd like to spend less than $200, and I think I see a lot of options for that. The thing is, I don't really know how to shop for a computer. I have some extra RAM in the machine I have now (which is out of commission), so I think I can switch that over, but I don't really know. You want least a quad core 4th gen Intel CPU, 8GB DDR3 and preferably a mid-tower instead of SFF for full sized GPU expansion. Something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optip...wP-E:rk:70:pf:0 Pretty sure there are better deals for same/better specs if you look harder on Ebay. Palladium fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Feb 9, 2019 |
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Feb 9, 2019 02:54
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If you can find one that also has an SSD, you'll have a much smoother experience. Here's an 8GB 7020 with a 256GB SSD. Alternatively, 500GB Crucial MX500 SSDs are $67, if you want to add one yourself. You'd need to add a graphics card for PS2 emulation or modernish 3d games, but you'll need one that doesn't require an external power adapter. Used 1050s go for $70-90 on ebay, and used 1050 Tis are about $90-110. Get an EVGA card for the transferable warranty. Alternatively, 750 Tis go for $50-60 and would be sufficient, but won't have any remaining warranty.
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Feb 9, 2019 03:30
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