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SkunkDuster posted:That would be my guess, too. I've used Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver (which is basically just a retarder) with acrylics and it works well. It could also be from holding the airbrush too far from the work which causes the paint to dry in the air before it hits the surface. I'll give shooting it closer a try. I'm not sure what I think of the thinner as activator for the primer. My initial model painted out fine, though the humidity around me is like 10% right now so maybe that's giving me grief.
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Feb 5, 2019 13:17
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I've noticed that Tamiya panel line accent absolutely does not flow when applied over a coat of future.
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Feb 5, 2019 14:08
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Got the layout wired up and the last bits of track laid - this is it in the loft in-situ: Added a valance and some daylight LEDs (need more, of course):  Starting to tidy up the valance: 
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Feb 5, 2019 15:35
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Bucnasti posted:Wanted to take a break from all the Warhammer figures I've been painting so I put together the Bandai Resistance X-Wing kit. Kickin' rad The paintjob fits it so well! Granite Octopus posted:I'm super pissed. I spent ages getting a reasonable gloss coat on this body, airbrushing with tamiya gloss clear acrylic. There was still heaps of orange peel but it was at a point where I was happy. Weird. What was the gloss coat you used? That has never happened to me using Vallejo Gloss.
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Feb 5, 2019 16:29
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Scored myself a tamiya Sauber kit today from the hoarders hovel for $60 aud. That’s exactly half of what the cheapest price I can find it on eBay. The decals are a little yellowed but I think I’ll live with it really. I’ll have to go back in a week or two cause they have an xjr9 kit and a porche 956 kit for about the same price. I’d like to have a trio of 80’s c class cars cause they’re pretty loving cool looking cars.
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Feb 6, 2019 08:14
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:Scored myself a tamiya Sauber kit today from the hoarders hovel for $60 aud. That’s exactly half of what the cheapest price I can find it on eBay. The decals are a little yellowed but I think I’ll live with it really. What’s the hoarders hovel? Gumtree? Also post some pics of your stratos! I’ve got a hasegawa one in my queue.
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Feb 6, 2019 11:42
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Granite Octopus posted:What’s the hoarders hovel? Gumtree? The hoarders hovel is what I’ve taken to calling sheriffs mini cars, a hobby shop that’s been in various places around Sydney since the late 70’s but these days is crammed into a factory unit so their stock is floor to ceiling. They mostly do die cast and matchbox type of stuff but they have a good selection of plastic and I believe they trade in stuff from people. I’ll post pics tomorrow but I will warn you that I hosed the main decals with ts13 so it’s not as smooth as it should be but it’ll live on my shelf as an example of where I’ve come from.
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Feb 6, 2019 12:13
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How do you guys rate Vallejo paints? I've been using Tamiya out of familiarity and I'm reasonably happy with how it brushes and airbrushes, but I'm not married to them and have a local store that stocks Vallejo as well. I'm curious about it, especially for non Tamiya kits. Price wise they also seem cheaper per mL even when including thinners. Anyone able to chip in, especially when comparing to Tamiya for airbrushing? Anything I should be aware of?
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Feb 7, 2019 04:31
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They're pretty solid, well worth trying out.
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Feb 7, 2019 04:51
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Carth Dookie posted:How do you guys rate Vallejo paints? I've been using Tamiya out of familiarity and I'm reasonably happy with how it brushes and airbrushes, but I'm not married to them and have a local store that stocks Vallejo as well. I'm curious about it, especially for non Tamiya kits. Price wise they also seem cheaper per mL even when including thinners. Anyone able to chip in, especially when comparing to Tamiya for airbrushing? Anything I should be aware of? I had a good experience with them. The colour modulation kits are not great, but if you buy the correct colours individually they work fine. Vallejo Air Colour is already thinned for airbrushing, unlike Tamiya, which needs proprietary thinner. I get better results with Vallejo Mecha Varnish (gloss and flat) than I had with Tamiya varnishes as well.
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Feb 7, 2019 05:15
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Interesting. I don't think my local shop has Vallejo air, just the standard stuff. That doesn't bother me since I intended to thin it myself (used to it from the Tamiya/Mr Surface primer anyway). The consensus from the internet seems to suggest it hand brushes very nicely, but doesn't stick as well without a primer when airbrushing (no problem to me), dries slower and is a little more fragile than Tamiya. The upsides being the bottle design price/volume and colour range and being truly water based so not as smelly as Tamiya. I'll give it a go. Carth Dookie fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Feb 7, 2019 |
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Feb 7, 2019 05:36
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Yeah it's acrylic rather than the weird laquer-acrylic thing that Tamiya do, so you definitely need to prime before spraying it. It can be a bit fragile even hand painting though, so take care not to wipe it off even after it cures.
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Feb 7, 2019 06:05
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I also have a few Vallejo airbrush primers. They're okay, not really better than Stynilrez, which seems to be the standard these days.
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Feb 7, 2019 06:48
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Ensign Expendable posted:I had a good experience with them. The colour modulation kits are not great, but if you buy the correct colours individually they work fine. Vallejo Air Colour is already thinned for airbrushing, unlike Tamiya, which needs proprietary thinner. I get better results with Vallejo Mecha Varnish (gloss and flat) than I had with Tamiya varnishes as well. The mecha line in general is really good but the matte varnish is exceptional.
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Feb 7, 2019 06:52
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As requested further up the thread I've got some images of the Lancia Stratos that I finished a few weeks ago. It was a good kit to build but the clear coat I put over the decals ate them as you can see.    On vallejo paints the only thing I don't really like about them is the difficulty in getting them mixed up nicely once they've been sitting for a bit. Their coverage is pretty good though even with brush painting.
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Feb 7, 2019 07:32
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The 1976 Wheeljack looks weird.
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Feb 7, 2019 07:51
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Arquinsiel posted:The 1976 Wheeljack looks weird. What wheel jack
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Feb 7, 2019 08:12
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This one.
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Feb 7, 2019 08:30
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Trip report: tested it out on some spoons. Paint is definitely more fragile than Tamiya, but sprays nicely once you get the hang of it. Following the directions of the airbrush thinner and only adding 1-2 drops per 10 of paint seems to produce the best results and definitely prefers higher pressure from the compressor. It is more viscous than the Tamiya paint. My only real uncertainty is cleaning the airbrush afterwards. It just seemed to cling like poo poo to a blanket inside the airbrush and the thinner didn't seem to loosen the hold much. Neither did water. With Tamiya I can flush x20a thru it and it will all go away more or less. The Vajello seemed to leave a thin veneer inside everything. In the end I pulled the entire airbrush apart and cleaned it out with Mr hobby leveling thinner which I use for my lacquer primer. Surely this isn't usual? It's a water based acrylic so I was extremely surprised that the Tamiya paint proved to be easier to remove. Any advice in that direction?
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Feb 7, 2019 08:41
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Carth Dookie posted:Trip report: tested it out on some spoons. Paint is definitely more fragile than Tamiya, but sprays nicely once you get the hang of it. Following the directions of the airbrush thinner and only adding 1-2 drops per 10 of paint seems to produce the best results and definitely prefers higher pressure from the compressor. It is more viscous than the Tamiya paint. My only real uncertainty is cleaning the airbrush afterwards. It just seemed to cling like poo poo to a blanket inside the airbrush and the thinner didn't seem to loosen the hold much. Neither did water. With Tamiya I can flush x20a thru it and it will all go away more or less. The Vajello seemed to leave a thin veneer inside everything. In the end I pulled the entire airbrush apart and cleaned it out with Mr hobby leveling thinner which I use for my lacquer primer. Surely this isn't usual? It's a water based acrylic so I was extremely surprised that the Tamiya paint proved to be easier to remove. Any advice in that direction? Lacquers and alcohol based acrylics are much easier to clean out of an airbrush than vinyl-like acrylics. Part of the reason I only hand brush with Vallejo, but prefer using Mr Color/Tamiya, is because the latter two can be cleaned out with cheap 90% ipa relatively quickly and easily. You don't want to use alcohol based thinners or cleaners to clean out Vallejo, since it just gums it up and makes it messier.
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Feb 7, 2019 08:49
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Yeah I knew that the alcohol was a no go, that's why I didn't mix any in. Using lacquer thinner to clean the brush is not desirable and it's a pretty big turn off for me. What do you guys use to clean Vallejo out of your airbrushes? The airbrush thinner literally doesn't cut it.
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Feb 7, 2019 08:56
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Carth Dookie posted:Yeah I knew that the alcohol was a no go, that's why I didn't mix any in. Using lacquer thinner to clean the brush is not desirable and it's a pretty big turn off for me. What do you guys use to clean Vallejo out of your airbrushes? The airbrush thinner literally doesn't cut it. When I still used Vallejo, I bought a bottle of Iwata's airbrush cleaner. That seemed to work ok.
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Feb 7, 2019 08:57
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Carth Dookie posted:Trip report: tested it out on some spoons. Paint is definitely more fragile than Tamiya, but sprays nicely once you get the hang of it. Following the directions of the airbrush thinner and only adding 1-2 drops per 10 of paint seems to produce the best results and definitely prefers higher pressure from the compressor. It is more viscous than the Tamiya paint. My only real uncertainty is cleaning the airbrush afterwards. It just seemed to cling like poo poo to a blanket inside the airbrush and the thinner didn't seem to loosen the hold much. Neither did water. With Tamiya I can flush x20a thru it and it will all go away more or less. The Vajello seemed to leave a thin veneer inside everything. In the end I pulled the entire airbrush apart and cleaned it out with Mr hobby leveling thinner which I use for my lacquer primer. Surely this isn't usual? It's a water based acrylic so I was extremely surprised that the Tamiya paint proved to be easier to remove. Any advice in that direction? I found that a qtip with water and retract the needle cleans the nozzle cup well. Actual paint cup when finishedpainting, just fill with water and use a qtip to clean the debris, dump the water and submurge the airbrush past the cup, crank the psi up ad it cleans the inner cup pretty well. Pull the needle give it a wipe and it should be good. Run a cleaning brush through the needle hole after long sprays and it's fine. My cheap airbrush still has a slight tinge of colour in the bottom of the cup as it's harder to clean, but if I'm using Vallejo paints only in it, I leave it be as it doesnt mix with any different colour paints as there's no solvents used due to being water based. I'll only give it a thorough clean if I'm going to run lacquer through it. Their Mecha line black primer is goddamn amazing too.
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Feb 7, 2019 09:00
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Hmmmm. Going to have to think about this since I only have the one airbrush and trying to run both Vallejo and Tamiya paints through it in the same session seems like a recipe for blockages due to the Tamiya thinner. Might shelve the Vallejo idea for now.
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Feb 7, 2019 09:38
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Carth Dookie posted:Hmmmm. Going to have to think about this since I only have the one airbrush and trying to run both Vallejo and Tamiya paints through it in the same session seems like a recipe for blockages due to the Tamiya thinner. Might shelve the Vallejo idea for now. FWIW I've done Vallejo metal aluminium, rinsed then straight to a Tamiya Clear smoke and haven't had any problems.  Top piece is Vallejo Mecha black primer, Vallejo metal aluminium with Tamiya Clear smoke. Bottom piece is Mecha black primer with Tamiya clear smoke straight on top. Tamiya pretty much went straight on after the Vallejo.
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Feb 7, 2019 10:51
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 This is a Bachmann Class 37 I bought pre-owned from hattonshobbies.com - it's a really wonderful runner and very smooth and quiet, and came with a DCC decoder fitted already. The wagons are a standard design coded 'PGA' by British Rail, four-wheeled hoppers used for aggregate/gravel/stone traffic and built in the 1970's. These models are old Lima examples which need some detailing and definitely re-wheeling. The siding here, for now, is just a plain siding/spur leading directly off the layout into staging/the fiddle yard area. It will eventually link up to the mainlines in the foreground, and gain a large corrugated building that's used to unload the gravel into a chute and then onto an overhead conveyor.  Just some Bachmann British Rail coaches and the tail end of a hopper used for domestic coal traffic for a brief period in the 80's.
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Feb 7, 2019 10:56
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I will also back the Vallejo Mecha line of primers and varnishes. The Mecha metallics are also really nice.
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Feb 7, 2019 14:15
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Carth Dookie posted:Hmmmm. Going to have to think about this since I only have the one airbrush and trying to run both Vallejo and Tamiya paints through it in the same session seems like a recipe for blockages due to the Tamiya thinner. Might shelve the Vallejo idea for now. Your experience echos mine to the letter. I am new to airbrushing and had heard it explained that Vallejo was a very beginner-friendly product as most of the colors are ready to paint straight from the bottle. I have found that using nothing but water actually yields the best (and cheapest) results. Instead of trying to scrape the film you describe I have begun doing a couple backflushes with straight water, dumping the excess and repeating until its clean. Afterward I simply spray a few cups of straight water, ensuring it is clear. While it may take a minute or two longer, it is certainly less involved than poking and prodding with a q-tip or brush.
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Feb 7, 2019 22:03
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Gonna try to fit the Eduard photoetch for Revell 05009 on Revell 05100 
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Feb 7, 2019 22:19
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Gay Weed Dad posted:Your experience echos mine to the letter. I am new to airbrushing and had heard it explained that Vallejo was a very beginner-friendly product as most of the colors are ready to paint straight from the bottle. I have found that using nothing but water actually yields the best (and cheapest) results. Instead of trying to scrape the film you describe I have begun doing a couple backflushes with straight water, dumping the excess and repeating until its clean. Afterward I simply spray a few cups of straight water, ensuring it is clear. While it may take a minute or two longer, it is certainly less involved than poking and prodding with a q-tip or brush. May give this a try. Waters cheap and I did like the paint, just not the clean-up. We'll see. Edit: I ordered an airbrush cleaning pot online. Up till now I've just been using paper towels which has hampered my ability to flush the airbrush efficiently so maybe that will help. Carth Dookie fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Feb 8, 2019 |
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Feb 7, 2019 22:28
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Tell me more about the Mecha Varnish. I'm on a quest for decent miniature varnish. How does it differ from the standard bottle one and the big-bottle polyurethane one (both Vallejo)?
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Feb 8, 2019 00:56
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The label says it provides "great resistance to impacts and scratches" after 24 hours of drying. I never tried to compare resistance to Tamiya or Testors clear coats.
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Feb 8, 2019 02:18
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Pierzak posted:Tell me more about the Mecha Varnish. I'm on a quest for decent miniature varnish. How does it differ from the standard bottle one and the big-bottle polyurethane one (both Vallejo)? I've only used the matte, not the gloss. The matte is super matte, and it is super forgiving when applying it, I tend to spray it on thick and it maintains its matte qualities. Other matte spray's that I've used have gotten a little glossy if you applied them too thick. I can't really vouch for the supposed durability of it, but it hasn't rubbed off of any of my models.
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Feb 8, 2019 04:38
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Carth Dookie posted:May give this a try. Waters cheap and I did like the paint, just not the clean-up. We'll see. Buy a gallon of deionized water at a grocery store and it will last for months. Also I would recommend a small squeeze bottle with an angled neck as it makes flushing the cup on the airbrush very simple.
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Feb 8, 2019 05:26
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I have an eyedropper that will probably suit. Did some more painting on the P47 today, including some masking and painting. Turned out better than I expected. No bleed under from what I saw, so very promising.
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Feb 8, 2019 11:50
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I finally bit the bullet and did my first steam locomotive weathering job. Frankly, I'm really happy with how it turned out.
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Feb 9, 2019 06:22
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Looks great Disgruntled Bovine!
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Feb 9, 2019 06:27
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That's a cool train. I decided that I needed practice doing complex masking, so I decided that instead of using the tail decals provided I would mask it up and paint the stripes. I ended up using the decals as a template and traced them onto tape, and then cut out the red bits. I've already applied a white base section. I don't know how many hours it took, but it was a lot. 
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Feb 9, 2019 06:47
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After painting and unmasking I'm reasonably happy with it. Not as straight as the decals would have been, but even so, still pretty good for a first try. Unmasking is kind of like unwrapping a present. Pretty satisfying.
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Feb 9, 2019 23:38
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Carth Dookie posted:Unmasking is kind of like unwrapping a present. Pretty satisfying. Yes, until you see the bleeding...
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Feb 9, 2019 23:48
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