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ClassH posted:Ender 5 first print. I put dampers on the X and Y axis, the Y took a little bit of work since it's a dual sided stepper with rods. Which dampers did you use?
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Feb 8, 2019 17:16
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mattfl posted:Which dampers did you use? https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Here is a picture of the Y damper, I had to separate the rod in the silver connector to account for the width of the damper. 
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Feb 8, 2019 18:25
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ClassH posted:https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Awesome. Ordered for my prusa! Thanks!
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Feb 8, 2019 18:46
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I am still on the fence about 3d printers. Debating between the Ender3 because it's good and cheap and the Prusa Mk3 because it's really good and looks like there are more mods for it (Palette 2 would be a nice upgrade if I feel like I need it)(And Triangle Labs does have a decent priced clone too). So here's a good question: Which one would you get if a 7/8 year old is going to be one of the primary users? Totally getting the Shapeoko XXL though.
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Feb 9, 2019 04:28
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Why palette 2 over the mk3's own mmu2.0 upgrade?
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Feb 9, 2019 15:56
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JuffoWup posted:Why palette 2 over the mk3's own mmu2.0 upgrade? Because people aren't paying as much attention as they think they are. Lol at thinking "Triangle Labs" means anything for 3d printers. Also LOL over the Palette. Don't buy 3d printers for children that aren't old enough to understand how badly they can get hurt by sharp objects, CNC machines and hot surfaces that aren't literally glowing hot.
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Feb 9, 2019 19:36
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Just ordered a Duet wifi for my Rostock Max along with their delta smart effctor, arms, etc.
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Feb 9, 2019 19:55
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I think a careful 8 year old would be able to treat a 3D printer pretty well and with the appropriate caution -- I got my first soldering iron when I was 7, and only burned myself like half a dozen times -- but you can't just stick it in the playroom and walk away. Think more like Dad and kid making a soapbox racer together.
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Feb 9, 2019 21:28
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I've got an 8 year old and he's into the 3d printer and the process. He enjoys browsing Thingiverse, watching it print, picking the filament, and even playing on Tinkercad to make his own stuff. He's not into tweaking the hot end, scraping off the goo, or attempting to free stubborn prints. For now I'm comfortable with him watching and learning. I'm sure one day I'll come home to him printing a giant middle finger or something.
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Feb 9, 2019 22:21
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This may be obvious and others have already said as much, but a 8 year old has no business operating a 3d printer beyond finding neat models online and asking an adult to print them. Not only are these things potentially dangerous, they're also a huge pain in the rear end and require frequent maintenance and fiddling about.  So anyway, speaking of potentially dangerous, the covers on the wires leading to my Prusa's hotend sensors are frayed as gently caress, should I worry about this and if so how do I fix it? Electronics are scary and mysterious to me and I don't want to burn down my house because I was printing space barbies.
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Feb 10, 2019 00:57
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JuffoWup posted:Why palette 2 over the mk3's own mmu2.0 upgrade?
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Feb 10, 2019 01:07
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I find I get better surface finish on square items if I ensure that none of their sides line up perfectly with a single axis. Like, if printing a box, it's better if I rotate it by five degrees or thereabouts, so any exterior wall has both the X and Y axis moving. Is that insane? I've cleaned the rollers and tracks on both axes. It's just that I tend to notice less ringing and more consistency.
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Feb 10, 2019 01:10
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Fire Storm posted:Oh, that's easy! I didn't know about the mmu2. I will absolutely look into that. The palette 2 makes sense for ender 3, etc. But for the prusa i3 mk3, yeah, there is a kit for it.
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Feb 10, 2019 01:12
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Don't expect rainbows and unicorns from the MMU2, tho. I heard from multiple people now that the unit can be a supreme pain in the rear end.
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Feb 10, 2019 01:31
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I've spent ~15 hours researching printers over the last few days and I think I've exhausted my buying analysis paralysis. I could use some help if you're not too sick of these types of posts. I bought a M3D Micro from a goon a year ago for $120 shipped. I spent around 40 hours messing around with it but ultimately I lost interest because I was flying fairly blind and the results were not good enough to keep me interested. It was a good proof of concept. I'm interested in printing tabletop miniatures, terrain/models, voxel models I make myself for retro game dioramas/shadowboxes (low poly), and any of the other random stuff you find on thingaverse. I believe I'll be sticking with PLA (unless a UV/Resin printer is a better option) and I plan on priming/painting most of what I make. I understand that this hobby requires either an interest or tolerance for tinkering and I am more on the tolerance side. As long as I can get over the hump and start to put more time into making within a reasonable amount of time, I'm ok with it. I'm willing to pay more for something that hits that point faster. My budget is ~$650 (flexible for quality/avoiding DOA). This is completely play money ($600 per month) but I also have some other hobby purchases lined up so I am willing to wait for the right coupon or sale (seems kind of dry right now). I also wouldn't rule out buying 2 over a longer period of time but I'd rather not. The current candidates are: Creality 3D Printer CR-10S ($499 shipped) ELEGOO Mars UV ($499 shipped), ANYCUBIC Photon ($435 shipped) Original I3 Prusa Kit ($795 delay shipped, a stretch of budget but I won't rule it out) Any advice is appreciated. If this will poo poo up the thread PMs are fine. If I get some good info I'll share with the class.
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Feb 10, 2019 02:15
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Combat Pretzel posted:Don't expect rainbows and unicorns from the MMU2, tho. I heard from multiple people now that the unit can be a supreme pain in the rear end. Multi-filament extrusion in general is a gigantic pain in the rear end. The best way to do multiple material printing is with a process that isn't FDM.
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Feb 10, 2019 03:00
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SatelliteCore posted:Any advice is appreciated. If this will poo poo up the thread PMs are fine. If I get some good info I'll share with the class. I have nothing to add other than I'm in a similar boat looking at a larger printer to go with my MPSM, and that CR10S looks mighty tempting.
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Feb 10, 2019 04:18
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After spending four years with a Rostock Max (upgraded to all-but-the-V3 over time, then selling it during an unemployment stint), and now the past six months with the Ender 3, I feel the need for a second printer. Like, the Ender 3 is great, and I've got mine printing quietly and beautifully, but there are still some times I miss the size of the plate on the Rostock Max. Not for too many single large items, though I do a yearly Halloween mask so that's been fun, but mainly for knocking out twenty items at a time. The CR-10S, while not that much bigger, is a lot of bang for your buck. Plus, there are variants with two Z screws and other upgrades now, and they look mighty tempting. Building my ghetto enclosed chamber has opened up the options a lot - I'm still an ABS nerd, primarily for its temperature resistance (living in AZ, that means a lot), and I used to have to design everything very carefully, with reliefs and cuts or certain geometry to avoid most of the pitfalls of ABS while printing without a chamber. Now, I can just throw any reasonably-sized printer inside this enclosure shelf thing, and it stays toasty enough to make most of the issues not a problem. Kinda wish Lulzbot would get back on their game - three years ago they were rushing towards top-class-for-price, and looked like they could shift the market. But they've been sitting on their laurels ever since.
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Feb 10, 2019 04:31
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Geisladisk posted:
no threat since it's built to handle heat. really, only reason it's sheathed is to prevent air from the outside cooling the thermistor throwing off readings. if your temps are fine, then it's fine the only risk it will have is providing a very nice surface for plastic (especially) PETG to cling to. once plastic gets between those threads, it's not coming out
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Feb 10, 2019 08:18
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Got the chance to do some work on a ~1 year old Prusa mk3 and it’s very nice. Still not quite print-and-forget but by far the nicest I’ve played with so far.
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Feb 10, 2019 11:56
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i3 mega and ender 3 seem perfect for me, I just want to print multi-piece terrain for 28mm scale mordheim. Both under $200 shipped on Ali Express. Do these things arrive DOA very often? Saw these on a Facebook post printed on an i3 mega, about 50 hours per. 
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Feb 11, 2019 03:12
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always be closing posted:i3 mega and ender 3 seem perfect for me, I just want to print multi-piece terrain for 28mm scale mordheim. Both under $200 shipped on Ali Express. Do these things arrive DOA very often? Just don't expect to get that level of quality straight out of the box.
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Feb 11, 2019 03:43
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Yeah, those are highly tuned versions of those printers, probably printed very slowly hence the 50 hours figure. It'll take a bit to get there.
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Feb 11, 2019 04:02
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I'm fine with that, willing to put the work in. Any add;ons to consider in my initial Chinese shipment? e- Gonna start doing my research now. should I avoid Alibaba? its $100 cheaper than amazon.. always be closing fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Feb 11, 2019 |
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Feb 11, 2019 05:58
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Pretty sure its the same printer either way so you might as well save the 100$. Its not like you get a real warranty with a china special anyway! I got an Ender 3 and am pretty happy with it after ironing out the kinks.
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Feb 11, 2019 11:59
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always be closing posted:Saw these on a Facebook post printed on an i3 mega, about 50 hours per. I know the Marlin 2.0 HAL system is pretty mature now, along with the STM32 cores and I was considering giving them a try. Does anyone know of a production controller board with an STM32F4 on it and TMC2130 drivers hooked up SPI? I considered STM's evaluation board, but their drivers are kinda not great.
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Feb 11, 2019 15:15
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Hey I finally got a decent OctoLapse video! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wxOGah04fk Played around with Lumafusion on my iPad too for editing. Turn off volume if you don't wanna hear some music I threw in. I think I'm going to make a mount so my camera sits in front of the printer instead of off to the side and see if I can clean up the video quality a bit.
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Feb 11, 2019 16:04
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JuffoWup posted:The palette 2 makes sense for ender 3, etc. But for the prusa i3 mk3, yeah, there is a kit for it. I have the palette 2 and its pretty drat nice, lots of options. I use it more for automatic filament switching at certain heights than multiple colors in the same layer but it works well. I had ender 3, but switched to ender 5 and works equally well with both so far.
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Feb 11, 2019 16:12
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Queen Combat posted:The CR-10S, while not that much bigger, is a lot of bang for your buck. Plus, there are variants with two Z screws and other upgrades now, and they look mighty tempting. Ended up finding one of these on eBay down in Tucson. Probably going to pick it up this weekend - at $350 it's pretty hard to say no to that.
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Feb 11, 2019 17:34
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I ended up buying an ANYCUBIC Photon in a package that includes 2 extra FEP screens and a 500ml bottle of resin. Apparently they are authorized resellers and I'm not sure if those supplies are in addition to the stuff that already comes with the machine or not. I think it was worth the extra money for the FEP screens. "Unique Resin Vat: FEP film is a relative expensive consumable for UV 3D printer. With our unique resin vat, the serving life for FEP film is largely extended. " Some of it sounds weird but here's to hoping.
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Feb 12, 2019 01:05
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Are there any online vendors for the Ender 3 that do parts/QA testing or are generally more reliable than others? I’ve seen enough stories of problems right out of the box (warped plates, crimped wiring instead of solder) that I’m a bit nervous, although plenty of others seem fine.
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Feb 12, 2019 17:58
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head58 posted:Are there any online vendors for the Ender 3 that do parts/QA testing or are generally more reliable than others? I’ve seen enough stories of problems right out of the box (warped plates, crimped wiring instead of solder) that I’m a bit nervous, although plenty of others seem fine. I'm pretty sure they're all selling the original boxes from Creality and it's just an issue of their QA not being amazing. I got mine from the Creality ebay store and didn't have any major issues with it yet, but I'm sure it's just an issue of getting lucky.
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Feb 12, 2019 18:09
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I know Comgrow on amazon has reviews that they replace bad parts pretty easily, so you wouldn't have to go through Creality to get that done.
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Feb 12, 2019 18:37
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Does the CR10 have better parts in general than the ender 3 or is it just bigger?
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Feb 12, 2019 18:37
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head58 posted:Are there any online vendors for the Ender 3 that do parts/QA testing or are generally more reliable than others? I’ve seen enough stories of problems right out of the box (warped plates, crimped wiring instead of solder) that I’m a bit nervous, although plenty of others seem fine. Unless Creality ups the quality at the factory there will always be issues like this because they have to cut corners where they can. For the crimped connectors they said that one part supplier cheaped out on them and delivered the crimped connectors instead of soldering them. So they no longer are shipping printers with crimped ones but who knows how many are out there. And even the soldered ones aren't always that great and can overheat as well. I think never Ender 3s are shipping with glass beds which are unlikely to be warped but if you're getting one with the fake buildtak bed theres pretty much always gonna be *some" warping. Get a cheap mirror and cut it to size to alleviate that. I mean, its an 150-200$ printer, there are always a couple of upgrades and improvements you should do to it to make it as reliable and as save as possible.
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Feb 13, 2019 08:41
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I think it's time to flip my PC sheet She has been good for what she is Pros -relieble bed adhesion -non heated bed Cons -bed gets scuffed by the nozzle super quick and these marks transfer to the bottom of subsequent prints -bed adhesion can be too excessive if tuned incorrectly Interesting -you can totally tune this a whole lot ,I just haven't had time to do so -I find the largest first layer height really helps with releasing, a sharp tap with a paint scraper is usually enough -definitely worth a try if you are hobby level doing fun stuff and want to avoid extra voltage Jestery fucked around with this message at 13:19 on Feb 14, 2019 |
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Feb 14, 2019 13:14
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Can I pause my Prusa's prints with the headbed off overnight without ill effects? I don't feel super great about leaving the printer running overnight, but the pause function leaves the headbed on by default.
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Feb 14, 2019 22:37
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Geisladisk posted:Can I pause my Prusa's prints with the headbed off overnight without ill effects? I don't feel super great about leaving the printer running overnight, but the pause function leaves the headbed on by default. The part might separate from the build plate, depending on the material. I think pausing is really just meant for short periods of time. I'd just leave it on, or even just let it print as long as there's a smoke alarm nearby. You're not likely to have a fire but it doesn't hurt to be sure.
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Feb 14, 2019 23:18
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Nothing bad will happen from leaving the heat bed on overnight. The only reason to worry about overnight prints is the possibility of total print failure spaghetti. edit: assuming you're talking about a real Prusa
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Feb 14, 2019 23:23
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Sooo I've got a Monoprice Maker Select v2 I've posted about a few times in here, and it finally really burned itself out bad. If I replace the Melzi board, I'm going to need to re-flash it somehow, right? Are there any good brands (or things to stay away from) when buying a new power supply? And how much of a headache am I in for rewiring the thing?
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Feb 14, 2019 23:38
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