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I just accidentally bought a sound mixer with no USB out. What do I get to connect it to USB for audio recording? I own a Scarlett interface. Can I plug it into that somehow?
Unmature fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Feb 12, 2019 |
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Feb 12, 2019 07:29
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Unmature posted:I just accidentally bought a sound mixer with no USB out. What do I get to connect it to USB for audio recording? I own a Scarlett interface. Can I plug it into that somehow? A USB sound card of some kind will get you a mic in like: https://smile.amazon.com/d/External-Sound-Cards/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/B00OJ5AV8I/ But depending on the output of your sound mixer you might need a unit with more audio device kinds of inputs: https://smile.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-Audio-Interface-1-Channel-UM2/dp/B00EK1OTZC/
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Feb 12, 2019 07:48
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Rexxed posted:A USB sound card of some kind will get you a mic in like: I have a Scarlett interface which is basically the second thing you linked. I ordered a dual 1/4 inch to dual 1/4 inch to connect to that. If that first thing you linked works I’d love to try that because it’ll be less table space. I’ll order one of those too and see if it works. Thanks! EDIT: Could this also be an option? https://www.guitarcenter.com/Behrin...40aAndBEALw_wcB Unmature fucked around with this message at 08:18 on Feb 12, 2019 |
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Feb 12, 2019 08:08
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Unmature posted:I have a Scarlett interface which is basically the second thing you linked. I ordered a dual 1/4 inch to dual 1/4 inch to connect to that. If that first thing you linked works I’d love to try that because it’ll be less table space. I’ll order one of those too and see if it works. Thanks! Yeah the thing from guitar center looks like it might also work. All of these things are essentially sound cards that connect to the computer over USB. The main difference is what inputs the cards offer. The first one I linked has a mic in which is not technically line in but will act like it if you can find what level you want the mic input to be at (configured in software). The sound card inside of the USB dongle is not likely to be super high quality but it should work. I imagine the same is true of the other options but not having used them nor knowing too much about audio equipment the most I can say is that if they have an input that the output of your mixer will work with, they will make the sound go onto the computer.
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Feb 12, 2019 08:37
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In many cases the microphone input on these small dongles is mono. And if it's really just a mic in and not a mic/line in combo jack, sound quality may suffer in the signal to noise ratio bringing a line level signal in there. Using the Scarlett should be perfect though.
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Feb 12, 2019 10:57
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I’m gonna start by using the Scarlett and might invest in the guitar center 1/4 to USB. I mainly just want to free up table space. A mixer, a Scarlett, a laptop, and four mics is a pain in the rear end.
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Feb 12, 2019 18:42
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Every now and then when I'm doing stuff on my computer, I can smell a whiff of burnt dust/plastic. However, when I try to investigate whether it's coming from my PC, it seems like the smell isn't there anymore, and the original smell disappears quite soon as well. I took my computer apart to investigate, and there doesn't seem to be anything wrong. I also cleaned the computer with compressed air, yet the smell still sometimes comes back. It happens quite rarely, maybe once a week, but it's still quite worrying for obvious reasons. Anyway, is there something I can do to really investigate whether it is my PSU about to blow up or something like that? It doesn't seem like opening up the PSU is such a good idea.
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Feb 15, 2019 03:18
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Unplug all power connectors and check the inside of the connector and receptacle for browning or discoloration. Take out your PSU and shine as light into the fan grill to do the same. Also check USB connectors. Consider alternate suspects, like do you have electric heating in your room?
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Feb 15, 2019 09:28
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Trying to install Windows Server 2016 on an old IBM xSeries 346 I got for 50 bucks, I've tried a lot of stuff and I've verified the bootable USB works on other systems but when I try to boot to USB on the server it says it doesn't detect any operating systems. I realize Windows Server 2016 is not compatible with such an old server but any ideas if there are some tricks I could do to get it working? I disabled some options that might have been causing issues but I'm new to this so its just shooting in the dark.
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Feb 16, 2019 23:48
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Captn Kurp posted:Trying to install Windows Server 2016 on an old IBM xSeries 346 I got for 50 bucks, I've tried a lot of stuff and I've verified the bootable USB works on other systems but when I try to boot to USB on the server it says it doesn't detect any operating systems. Is the USB stick formatted as UEFI boot? That's not gonna work. It'll have to be MBR/BIOS, legacy, whatever you want to call it.
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Feb 17, 2019 14:50
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Flash Drive: MBR partitioning, FAT32 volume, BIOS firmware boot image
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Feb 17, 2019 18:23
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If you want to make it easy just use Rufus to set up your installer disk and pick MBI as the partition scheme after selecting the image - you should see "Target system" change from UEFI to "BIOS (or UEFI-CSM)" and then you can hit start.
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Feb 17, 2019 21:22
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USB 3.0 will be just as fast as internal SATA for a 5400RPM hard drive, right? I mean theoretically it should, but is there anyone here with real world experience that would disagree for some other practical reasons that the transfer speed specs wouldn’t account for? I just went ahead and scored one of those sweet deals on 10TB WD externals and wanted to know if it’s worth the effort to take it out of the enclosure and using it as an internal drive. With a single drive that large, I shouldn’t need a dedicated NAS device for PLEX and backup images of the modestly sized SSD’s of my other devices over a simple network share on my Dell Precision workstation, right?
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Feb 18, 2019 07:29
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Laslow posted:USB 3.0 will be just as fast as internal SATA for a 5400RPM hard drive, right? You shouldn't notice any missing performance with proper usb 3.0 speeds. Not advisable to use the external USB for anything more than bulk data storage though like a main system drive. And yes, just make a share
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Feb 18, 2019 07:48
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fishmech posted:You shouldn't notice any missing performance with proper usb 3.0 speeds. Not advisable to use the external USB for anything more than bulk data storage though like a main system drive. But seriously, thanks. I think I knew the answer, but it was too simple for my brain to accept. Now I'm free to find the next thing to occupy my neurosis!
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Feb 18, 2019 08:28
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Laslow posted:USB 3.0 will be just as fast as internal SATA for a 5400RPM hard drive, right? USB3+ is fine for any HDD; SATA2 isn't even a bottleneck for any single HDD that I've seen. If you don't specifically need to shuck the drive, using it as intended as an external is perfectly fine; I have this exact setup for my PMS, with a single external HDD holding all of my media. You can certainly still use it for other stuff simultaneously like backups.
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Feb 18, 2019 09:58
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Looking for a NAS for my small office. A dozen people, but probably no more than 6 accessing the NAS at any given time. Want to access it from Mac but use our Windows server for authentication. Right now we have an xserve that is way overpowered for what we're doing, and i think it's dying from old age. Probably want something on the 2 terabyte order. Easiest solution preferred (so drives included, etc.). There's probably important details I'm forgetting.
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Feb 18, 2019 17:21
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What's the way to make sure I am getting the most out of an eGPU? I have an MSI GS63VR laptop with a GTX 1060 inside and a desktop 1080 connected via a Razer Core 2. In Nvidia settings I have it set to always prefer the high-powered NVIDIA processor and I have the laptop plugged in and in high performance mode. The monitor is plugged directly into the 1080. The laptop is on a cooling pad to help with cooling. The 1080 and the laptop never hit above 60c so I don't think it's throttling. According to the Nvidia GPU Activity tool the applications are all being assigned to the 1080. But my FPS in games is poo poo for a 1080. I get like 30fps in Apex Legends on all low. In some games like Insurgency Sandstorm it can help to switch to borderless windowed, but everything else will just chug for no reason. All my games are on an SSD as well. Is this just how the Razer Core is? Is there some trick to eke better performance out of it? I feel like I shouldn't have to run new games on medium/low when recommended specs for games are still wanting at least a GTX 1060.
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Feb 18, 2019 19:37
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What happens if you just run Apex Legends on the internal 1060? Is it better or worse than what you get now?
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Feb 19, 2019 00:23
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Protocol7 posted:What's the way to make sure I am getting the most out of an eGPU? Yeah, you're going to have to benchmark the 1060, then the 1080, and run MSI Afterburner so you can get a better idea of what's going on. If you have something (like the CPU) at 100% utilization while the GPU is <100%, that identifies the bottleneck. Also, this isn't really the best scenario for an eGPU anyway. You've got a still-solid gaming laptop with a good dGPU, and the extra $500-1000 or whatever you paid isn't really worth it to go up to an eGPU which will give you the performance roughly of a 1070 (due to TB3 bandwidth limitations.)
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Feb 19, 2019 07:56
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Looking for a NAS for my small office. A dozen people, but probably no more than 6 accessing the NAS at any given time. Want to access it from Mac but use our Windows server for authentication. Right now we have an xserve that is way overpowered for what we're doing, and i think it's dying from old age. Probably want something on the 2 terabyte order. Easiest solution preferred (so drives included, etc.). I'm probably not answering your question, but I've been more than happy with my 6-bay QNAP, so I can at least tell you that brand is fast and reliable. Well, I get 70MB/sec out of the 14TB RAID5 in it. You can run all sorts of apps on it as well if you have a need for any of the various data servers it can host. What I've always hated, but I've no idea if they are still around, are Lacie NAS boxes. Maybe they are better now, but I had nothing but trouble years ago with them just dropping connection during large file transfers.
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Feb 19, 2019 08:27
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2nd for qnap Have you looked at Office 365 E1 or E3 licensing? If you have a decent connection, OneDrive for Business may be a serious, more-portable, more-reliable contender than an on-prem NAS, especially if you don't have dedicated/experienced IT with storage management credentials.
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Feb 19, 2019 18:11
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Xpost -Potato Salad posted:I know some of y'all work or have worked in bigass datacenters. Long story short, I'm sorta becoming a mid-rear end datacenter and I probably should invest in a server lift.
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Feb 22, 2019 17:22
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My wife's computer isn't turning on, not even starting to spin up. I've tried bridging the power button pins on the motherboard and no go. I don't see any lights on the motherboard or PSU but IIRC there aren't any. I'm thinking it's PSU, all the cables seem solid. Does that sound right? She woke me up at the rear end-crack of dawn to look at it so I wasn't thinking too clearly. Thankfully the PSU is still in warranty, but it's still a pain in the rear end. To test it, are modular cables standardized between manufacturers? Before I deal with RMA I'm thinking of testing with a Corsair power supply I have, but hers is an EVGA. It would be really nice if I didn't have to redo all the wiring to test it out.
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Feb 22, 2019 20:18
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They are absolutely not standardized, not even within the same manufacturer and sometimes not even within the same model (as in different model revisions).
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Feb 22, 2019 20:21
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22 Eargesplitten posted:To test it, are modular cables standardized between manufacturers? No, and not even between models. Never try this.
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Feb 22, 2019 20:24
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Goddammit. That's a lot of loving cable management I'm going to have to redo when I replace it permanently then. I'll probably just try to keep them hanging and out of the way while I test at least. But if they change even between model revisions I can't just plug and play with the new 600W EVGA that will be replacing my 2.5 year old EVGA.
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Feb 22, 2019 20:25
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Thankfully the PSU is still in warranty, but it's still a pain in the rear end. To test it, are modular cables standardized between manufacturers? Before I deal with RMA I'm thinking of testing with a Corsair power supply I have, but hers is an EVGA. It would be really nice if I didn't have to redo all the wiring to test it out. Functionally you can test it by only connecting the main ATX, 4/8 pin auxiliary ATX and possibly GPU auxiliary connectors (assuming it has a video card requiring additional power), usually without even unmounting/remounting the power supplies - just lay it next to the tower and fish the harnesses over the edge.
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Feb 22, 2019 20:26
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True, that's probably the best way to do it. Thanks. loving sucks I just rebuilt her computer a few months ago. I need to redo the fans, it's getting a ton of dog hair in there because there's only one fan header (2 but one is for the CPU) on this board. Guess I'll flip the fan so it's pushing rather than pulling until I can get a fan splitter or hub or something. I just hope that doesn't cause it to start overheating when it's under load in Photoshop. E: Turns out it's a moot point, because for some reason I bought a Rosewill Capstone with a 1 year warranty rather than the EVGA with a 3 year warranty I thought I did 
22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Feb 22, 2019 |
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Feb 22, 2019 20:39
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My pen drive Adata has started acting odd since yesterday, trying to copy files from it to my PC and viceversa has led to the pen drive suddenly disconnecting and the data going missing. I've tried formatting it multiple times (using the memory administrator and windows normal format option), running check disk to fix damaged sectors, I even tried using Repartition Bad Drive to isolate any possible bad sectors and nothing has worked. Should I accept my drive is hosed or is there something else I could do?
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Feb 22, 2019 22:38
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Dark_Tzitzimine posted:My pen drive Adata has started acting odd since yesterday, trying to copy files from it to my PC and viceversa has led to the pen drive suddenly disconnecting and the data going missing. I've tried formatting it multiple times (using the memory administrator and windows normal format option), running check disk to fix damaged sectors, I even tried using Repartition Bad Drive to isolate any possible bad sectors and nothing has worked. Probably toast, if you use it a lot the flash has probably reached the limits of its endurance. Pen drives and flash cards and the like have the lowest quality flash that technically still works in them which is why they are generally slow and inexpensive. Either that or its controller IC is burning out, which is another common failure mode of USB memory because everything about them has to be as cheap as possible.
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Feb 22, 2019 23:11
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Indiana_Krom posted:Probably toast, if you use it a lot the flash has probably reached the limits of its endurance. Pen drives and flash cards and the like have the lowest quality flash that technically still works in them which is why they are generally slow and inexpensive. Either that or its controller IC is burning out, which is another common failure mode of USB memory because everything about them has to be as cheap as possible. Crap, I only have like two weeks with that drive. Not that it was expensive but sucks having to get a new one. Oh well, thanks!
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Feb 22, 2019 23:16
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Dark_Tzitzimine posted:Crap, I only have like two weeks with that drive. Not that it was expensive but sucks having to get a new one. Oh well, thanks! If it is only two weeks old, RMA that poo poo. Don't pay for another one, it should have lasted longer than that.
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Feb 23, 2019 00:00
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Yeah even if it was a lovely little 16GB for $6.99, RMA it just on principle. (And spend a little more next time. Sandisk and Verbatim are good values and are a lot less likely to poo poo the bed in two weeks.)
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Feb 23, 2019 00:35
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I actually hadn't thought of that  I'll go to the shop tomorrow. I picked Adata because it had worked well for me so far but I learned my lesson. Thanks again guys.
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Feb 23, 2019 00:42
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Thankfully the PSU is still in warranty, but it's still a pain in the rear end. To test it, are modular cables standardized between manufacturers? Before I deal with RMA I'm thinking of testing with a Corsair power supply I have, but hers is an EVGA. It would be really nice if I didn't have to redo all the wiring to test it out. Oh my god do not do this it will cause a fire
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Feb 23, 2019 01:17
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How's HDMI over ethernet coming along these days?
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Feb 23, 2019 16:46
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The cables on my titanium passive Seasonic PSU are actually compatible with my 1050W's cabling. I tested it on the titanium model anyways (with an unimportant PC) - I'm not going to risk it on the 1050W model. I wouldn't have expected that and I know it's not universal, but it was lucky since most of the titanium units cables were lost at some point.
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Feb 23, 2019 20:43
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future ghost posted:The cables on my titanium passive Seasonic PSU are actually compatible with my 1050W's cabling. I tested it on the titanium model anyways (with an unimportant PC) - I'm not going to risk it on the 1050W model. I wouldn't have expected that and I know it's not universal, but it was lucky since most of the titanium units cables were lost at some point. Yeah some are compatible, but it's not universal, hence all the warnings. If someone's asking it's generally because they don't want to take the cables out of their case and telling them to check both sets of cables with a multimeter with continuity settings to be sure it's useful.
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Feb 23, 2019 20:52
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I'm aware of that; I've seen enough pin-compatible but electrically-incompatible PSU cables to only imagine what would happen if you hosed up and tried using them.
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Feb 23, 2019 21:00
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