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IOwnCalculus posted:Honestly head bolts are specific enough that if you did find something that checked all of those boxes properly... a) it would probably literally be the exact same supplier selling you the bolts anyway and b) would probably cost more than just getting "the actual set of head bolts". You're probably right - but you sure as hell aren't finding it at Ace/Tractor Supply/Home Depot. shovelbum posted:Why are automotive head bolts so engineered? Is it because they're so small but still need to function as head bolts? I'm used to head studs as thick as my calf where replacing the studs/nuts every time you routinely had the head off would be comically laborious and expensive. Specialized fasteners yes, but pretty drat reusable. In addition to the cost and size considerations already mentioned it's more cost for assembly: higher part count, more operations to complete. Most studs I've seen require a washer so you're turning 1 bolt into 3 SKUs and operations.
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Feb 9, 2019 18:17
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I wish I still had one of the old head bolts now, I'm curious enough to go check whatever it was I saw at Ace that gave me the idea. Probably some lesser grade of hardened bolts.
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Feb 9, 2019 19:08
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Beaten to the punch. Moral of the story is to please use OEM head bolts. Head gaskets (and all the rest) really aren’t that fun to replace.
nitsuga fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Feb 9, 2019 |
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Feb 9, 2019 21:08
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Sweevo posted:Sounds like a bad repair - either a cheap gasket, or not fitted correctly, or the head not checked for straightness before refitting. As you say, the oil filler looked pretty alarming when I bought the car, but it would also produce a lot of white smoke from the exhaust when warmed up, and there was coolant in the oil. Supposedly he had the head skimmed (he certainly took money to have it done), but really who knows if he actually did. Motronic posted:It could be one or more of a bunch of things. Bolts of course, they may have/be working themselves loose. They may never have been torqued properly to begin with. The block and/or head may not have been cleaned properly. The head could have been warped and wasn't sent out to be decked properly. He could have mangled the block or head surfaces while cleaning. He could have over torqued and cracked the head. It matters because it's a wet liner engine, and it's not uncommon for the liner seals to leak coolant into the oil if disturbed. There's some corrosion on and around the liners, and if I pull the liners to reseal them and it turns out their seats are corroded, I'll most likely need to buy a new block and swap it in which I'd obviously rather not do if I can just leave it all undisturbed. Which is why I'm trying to figure out the likelihood of it being something bolt/gasket/head related vs the liners. Currently it's looking like it was the former, but I'm also not particularly fond of the idea of putting it all together just to find out I was wrong..
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Feb 9, 2019 21:23
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Grakkus posted:As you say, the oil filler looked pretty alarming when I bought the car, but it would also produce a lot of white smoke from the exhaust when warmed up, and there was coolant in the oil. Ohhhh...yeah, sorry. I thought this was a "did my mechanic screw up and how so I know before I bring it back to him to unfuck this."
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Feb 9, 2019 23:53
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Javid posted:I can check the fluid today, but it was just checked and topped off during an oil change a couple weeks ago. Not necessarily. My Jeep has both input shaft and output shaft speed sensors - and neither are used for the speedometer.
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Feb 9, 2019 23:59
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It looks like I've got two, too: I fuckin' hope it's that easy.
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Feb 10, 2019 02:05
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aw crap of course it's 4 degrees and dropping right now... 1991 Nissan pick-up, ignition switch locked up. The key comes out easily, but will not turn. I know to get the steering wheel off the lock position, etc. I suspect a broken spring since the the push button doesn't pop back. Youtube says put the key in it and whack it with a clown hammer, but I dunno about that. I'll try that as last resort, probably. Any ideas or ways to get the thing mobile without towing to a shop? It's sitting outside the corner store right now, so it's a 3 block walk between my garage/tools and the truck. I'd rather not make that walk more times than I have to. e: I got it. The tapping with hammer sort of helped, but swinging the steering wheel from lock to lock while turning the key did it. poo poo's probably just worn out. dee eight fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Feb 10, 2019 |
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Feb 10, 2019 02:13
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My rear struts have finally given up the ghost and are now causing tire rubbing and a bit of body roll. I know it's dangerous to drive on them and it will also damage everything attached to the strut as long as I do, but 3 weeks and a few hundred miles of commuting stand between me and the time/money to actually replace the struts and springs Are there any bandaid fixes that could help? At the very least, stop the tire rubbing? E: the tire rubbing is only during sharper turns, but it hurts to hear
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Feb 10, 2019 07:03
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So I'm, among other things, changing the discs+pads as well as servicing and painting the calipers. I did have some problems with the one of the brakes (forgot which one now) dragging hard when I just got the car, but it had been sitting for a while. It went away after happening two times and never came back. After that I've learned a lot more about cars and while I'm there I'd like to service the calipers etc. I'll be buying new slide pins and boots (pretty cheap so why not), however, a 2009 car shouldn't have bad pistons right? AFAIK there is no leaking or odd braking behavior.
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Feb 10, 2019 08:43
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0toShifty posted:The bent wheel is probably being compensated out when the car is rolled back and forth. It's more important to have all 4 tires with the right pressure in them though. Technically the alignment tech's first job is to check and set the tire pressure to whatever's stock for the car, but it's rarely actually done properly like that. Having the spare on will probably change the ride height enough to screw with the accuracy of the alignment. No stability control on mine, it's about as basic as a car gets mechanically for a 2006. No VVTi, no automatic, no ABS, no traction control, 3 pedals, 5 gears, only things driven by the belt are the AC and alternator - though it might have a steering angle sensor (electric power assist instead of hydraulic). And yeah, the spare is an itty bitty piece of poo poo, it's significantly smaller in every way than the regular tires. I'll make sure to set the pressure myself to the door jamb spec before I get it done, since I haven't had any luck finding anyone outside of Firestone that can do a same-day alignment. At the moment the bent wheel is on the back, and it's not a bad bend (barely noticeable when it's on the front, and only at low end parking lot speeds - it took 1 tire replacement, and 3 rotations/rebalances, for a tire shop to even notice it). Leal posted:Alright taxes are in, time to make my car legal to appease the hippies who run my state. First off the air intake, it looks like I reuse my air flow sensor that is already on the car. My question is: Does THAT have to be carb compliant as well? If you were in the UK and had to do a MOT, I'd be a bit more concerned. It's likely the original MAF anyway, IIRC from the part number you posted awhile back. CARB compliance mostly comes into play with aftermarket parts - primarily performance-oriented stuff, along with stuff that directly impacts emissions (ECUs, catalytic converters, etc). Even if you have an aftermarket MAF, the ECU would be bitching if it was out of spec enough to affect emissions. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Feb 10, 2019 |
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Feb 10, 2019 10:38
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I'm going to be selling my car soon and last time I sold a car was a few years ago so want to make sure that the steps haven't change Last time I sold a car, I submitted a sale report to the local DOL - I also had the new owner sign the title that was in my glovebox along with a "Bill of Sale" short one page contract that I found online that just stated that this car is being sold "as-is" etc. Besides that, is there anything else I need to keep in mind or do? Lastly, I saw that there are people selling Carfax reports on eBay for $5. I'm assuming these people have corporate accounts so that's why they can charge such a cheap price. Should I go this route?
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Feb 10, 2019 10:41
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I've purchased a pair of 3" fog lights that can change from amber to white lights and I need some help wiring them. I'm used to setting up your standard light that only has a (+) and (-) wire, where as this one has two positives and one ground. The yellow wire controls amber and the red controls white. With red connected the white LEDs light up, and with yellow connected the amber are turned on. If both are wired to positive both sets of lights come on. Is there a way to wire this so that I can have a switch for each color? The Autozones near me only have on/off switches - nothing with three positions. I have a wiring harness with a relay and fuse but it's only set up for two wires. Can I add a switch somehow to toggle between amber and white?
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Feb 10, 2019 17:29
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Of course, but there's a bunch of ways to do it. I would get a three position switch online and wire it to two relays. You could use two spst switches for each, or a spst for power and spdt to choose color.
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Feb 10, 2019 17:46
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e:f,b but have a diagram That's assuming you wanna stick with the switches you have on hand. Either way you're gonna have two switch wires running to two relays, only difference is how much space 2 vs 1 switch take up on your dash.
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Feb 10, 2019 18:09
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Busy Bee posted:I'm going to be selling my car soon and last time I sold a car was a few years ago so want to make sure that the steps haven't change You need to list your state because it's different in every single one.
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Feb 10, 2019 18:32
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Does anyone got an easy fix for stripped holes in sheet metal for trim screws? If this were wood, I'd just fill it with toothpicks...
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Feb 10, 2019 21:01
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If it's near the edge of a panel, drill the hole out enough to clear the screw and clip a speednut on it. If not, seems like your options would be a rivnut, tapping for a larger size fastener, or weld / drill / tap.
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Feb 10, 2019 21:22
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The Door Frame posted:My rear struts have finally given up the ghost and are now causing tire rubbing and a bit of body roll. I know it's dangerous to drive on them and it will also damage everything attached to the strut as long as I do, but 3 weeks and a few hundred miles of commuting stand between me and the time/money to actually replace the struts and springs It seems more like the springs are hosed more than the struts but whatever. Best I could suggest is some kind of rubbery like chunks of something in between your spring coils? Hockey pucks might work. You didn't hear that from me.
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Feb 10, 2019 22:19
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wesleywillis posted:It seems more like the springs are hosed more than the struts but whatever. Best I could suggest is some kind of rubbery like chunks of something in between your spring coils? Hockey pucks might work. Definitely didn't hear it from you  A rough ride is a small price to pay to limp around without chewing up my tires
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Feb 10, 2019 22:33
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Anybody know how to tear the radio/CD changer out of a Kia Amanti/Opirus? My CD changer's fuckerated and the head unit has a bad solder joint or something, randomly flips between presets when cold.
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Feb 10, 2019 23:59
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Whats a good way to get snow off the roof of my work truck? Its got a 24 foot box thats about 3.9m tall. If its soft light snow I just let it blow off, but when it gets heavy and crusty that doesn't work. Its high enough that I would need a harness/fall arrest poo poo to actually go up there with a shovel. I've tried various things with limited success. Including, getting a long rear end 1" thick manilla rope and dragging it across the top with my helper pulling it on the other side. It worked to break up some poo poo but not as good as I'd hoped. I don't want to be the highway ice flying jerk if I can help it.
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Feb 11, 2019 18:19
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??? https://www.homedepot.com/p/True-Temper-17-ft-Telescoping-Roof-Rake-193055510/202943651
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Feb 11, 2019 18:24
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I think that thing is designed around you having a decent angle at the roof, which you won't on a box truck like you would on a house.
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Feb 11, 2019 18:26
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Yeah, basically a glorified broom.
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Feb 11, 2019 18:27
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C-Bangin' it 
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IOwnCalculus posted:If it's near the edge of a panel, drill the hole out enough to clear the screw and clip a speednut on it. If not, seems like your options would be a rivnut, tapping for a larger size fastener, or weld / drill / tap. Thanks, but trim screws aren't machine thread. That was my best guess too, a tiny square of sheet metal and a dot of JB Weld. I wonder, would JB Weld on its own be enough? Or would that break out as soon as I hand tighten in a screw?
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Feb 11, 2019 19:53
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kid sinister posted:Thanks, but trim screws aren't machine thread. That was my best guess too, a tiny square of sheet metal and a dot of JB Weld. IoC wasn't talking about machine threads. The correct solution depends on the exact orientation/distance but his suggestion of speednut is likely the right one.  And yes JB Weld will break immediately. That's why the above exists.
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Feb 11, 2019 20:29
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Motronic posted:IoC wasn't talking about machine threads. The correct solution depends on the exact orientation/distance but his suggestion of speednut is likely the right one. Speednuts can come in machine thread, I just broke one holding my C10's fender liner on the other day  But yeah if it's not a machine thread fastener, I'd try a speednut like the one shown. Alternatively, how visible is this screw? If it's recessed to the point where it doesn't need to visually match the others, seems like switching it to machine thread (if needed for a rivnut or something similar) wouldn't really be an issue. My WJ, because Chrysler, has both styles of threads holding the front door panels on. A machine screw into a rivnut up front, a sheet metal screw into a thin tab on the rear. Also because Chrysler I've had the door panels off so many loving times for broken window regulators that most of my doors have at least two holes in that rear tab because it's so thin it feels the same whether you're lined up in the original hole or tearing a new one.
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Feb 11, 2019 20:37
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IOwnCalculus posted:Speednuts can come in machine thread, I just broke one holding my C10's fender liner on the other day One stripped hole is in the trim over the driver's door, the other is for the driver's door threshold/sill plate/whatever. I could probably cut a slot to insert one of those for the top screw with a Dremel, but I don't want any more holes in my floor pan than I need to...
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Feb 11, 2019 23:40
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Is there an AI approved brand/model of windshield wipers? Would prefer the solid beam-type blade, but functionality trumps all else. Thanks! VV well that's incredibly pragmatic. I was hoping there was some kind of secret sauce. Thanks! Nuevo fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Feb 12, 2019 |
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Feb 12, 2019 02:27
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Whatever's not the cheapest, but on sale. Rain-x, Bosch, etc.
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Feb 12, 2019 03:41
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A couple quick questions, does anyone know what this wheel came off of? It says Toyota on the backside. Also I removed the subframe on my old VW and oil came out of the frame, I believe it's from the rustproofing job the original owner did. Should I bother trying to refill it and if so how did they even get it in there?
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Feb 12, 2019 04:35
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Schwab informs me that 235-70-15s like mine are uncommon these days, and the cheapest set they have is like 700 bucks. RIP to the OE size on this thing. Their suggestion was 225-75s, which measure out like so:  How's that slightly taller/skinnier tire going to affect handling this tub? Is there a better substitute non-moony size?
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Feb 12, 2019 05:17
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Nuevo posted:Is there an AI approved brand/model of windshield wipers? I like Bosch for the solid beam type, personally, but only get about 6 months out of them. Don't ever buy them in a retail store unless you take a bucket of anal lube with you. Use Bosch's website to lookup what wipers you need, then put the part number into Rockauto (do NOT loving trust Rockauto's catalog for wipers, so far it's been wrong every time when I actually look up the proper wiper). Rockauto is insanely cheap for wipers, even with shipping added. If you're going to go retail, listen to toplitzin. Pay attention to Advance, O'Reilly's, Autozone, etc ads, and check out Walmart as well. e: at the moment I have Bosch's low end solid beam line, Clear Advantage, which ran $9.39 for the set, plus shipping. Shipping was $6.99, but I had a valve cover gasket in the order (and c'mon, we all need more than just wipers on that order anyway, right?). Icons and Evolutions don't cost that much more on Rockauto though. Javid posted:How's that slightly taller/skinnier tire going to affect handling this tub? Is there a better substitute non-moony size? With what you drive, I don't think you're going to notice a difference. If anything, it may ride ever so slightly smoother due to the taller sidewall. I'm pretty sure /75 was more common when your tub was new. I don't know how common it is today, but it was dirt common when I had my F-150 that came with 195/75's (which got dumped for 235/75's when I went to some Cragar Soft 8 knockoffs) Autoexec.bat posted:A couple quick questions, does anyone know what this wheel came off of? It says Toyota on the backside. Mid-late 90s Celica had a 5 spoke 5 lug that looks a lot like that, as a dealer option IIRC. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:46 on Feb 12, 2019 |
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Feb 12, 2019 08:52
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e: clearly I'm too tired to be posting
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:59 on Feb 12, 2019 |
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Feb 12, 2019 08:56
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Nuevo posted:Is there an AI approved brand/model of windshield wipers? I usually get the Toyota brand ones from the dealer. They're expensive but my car is 10 years old as of the end of September, and I put my third set of wipers on back in July.
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Feb 12, 2019 12:40
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I remember in the old days you could just buy the inserts for wiper blades.
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Feb 12, 2019 15:22
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That's what I did for the rear wiper on my GX470. Seems like practically all rear wipers are non-standard so it was waaay cheaper to replace the insert.
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Feb 12, 2019 16:13
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STR posted:I like Bosch for the solid beam type, personally, but only get about 6 months out of them. Don't ever buy them in a retail store unless you take a bucket of anal lube with you. Use Bosch's website to lookup what wipers you need, then put the part number into Rockauto (do NOT loving trust Rockauto's catalog for wipers, so far it's been wrong every time when I actually look up the proper wiper). Rockauto is insanely cheap for wipers, even with shipping added. Man you aren't kidding and I learned something thanks to you. Just bought a pair of Anco's at Walmart for around $6-7 a piece. On Rock Auto they are listed at around $2 each. But like you said, factor in shipping costs, etc. extra parts. Problem is you can't wait 3-5 days for wiper blades. When they die, you need them now hence the margins. But for the love of god, don't buy them at an auto parts store. Get them from Walmart (and oil, unless crazy deals from the parts places) and know you are only getting fleeced a tad for the convenience. Capitalism at its finest.
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Feb 12, 2019 16:17
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Alternate plan, just toss a couple of pairs in with your yearly pack of oil filters, air filters, and whatever item you actually logged on for.
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Feb 12, 2019 16:34
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