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The only slightly decent thing about the latest reboots of the range are that they changed the names, so at least you didn't pick up completely the wrong thing one day.
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Feb 13, 2019 01:53
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Mr. Funktastic posted:Thanks for the suggestion! Unfortunately my dry brush looks more like a second base coat and I've gotten suggestions that I should just repaint them and start over, but I'll try to apply the wash on a piece of armor as a test and do a much lighter dry brush over that and see if that fixes things. Those Custodian Guard look incredible! The secret sauce is the final edge highlight of silver. Just don't get liberal, edges and tips only!
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Feb 13, 2019 02:14
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Yeast posted:The reasons are always stated as 'exciting new colours and even better formulas' Invent a dang 3D printer for paints and make it read Pantone chips, something something profit I don't know how paint works
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Feb 13, 2019 03:57
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I just want to replace my mostly empty gw ink pots
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Feb 13, 2019 04:23
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goodness posted:Good thing there is a range of paints made to specifically match nuked GW colors Coat d'Arms, made by Black Hat Miniatures. They didn't just start recently, though. They're actually the company that made GW's original paint line. They just... didn't stop, after GW moved their production elsewhere. They had to change a few names, but the paint is the same formula and in similar pots. They also make Privateer Press's P3 line of paints.
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Feb 13, 2019 04:31
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There's also Instar, which so far is the only company producing Charadon Granite.
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Feb 13, 2019 04:43
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Slimnoid posted:There's also Instar, which so far is the only company producing Charadon Granite. Ah, that sounds much more like TTerrible and goodness were talking about. I wasn't aware of them. I'll have to pick up a few samples to
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Feb 13, 2019 05:04
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 It's my first finished team of models, I've just done a single space marine hero in ultramarine colors and a couple of reaper models before. Every mistake stabs me in the heart but I had to move on eventually because there are just too many. I intended to follow the GW guide but the edge highlights required is still just way beyond me, I almost wish I had done it in a dark grey instead of black and drybrushed them a highlight isntead, they're a bit too matte. The weapons are a big ol mess and have no highlight and since this is Army Painter the green really would have needed a couple more coats. The red turned out nice i think though and their metallics seem ace if a bit thick and hard to thin to a good consistency. I've only used Citadel before so I can tell theres a real reduction in quality with this paint set but not so much I felt burdened. I found it really hard to do brush control everytime I had to paint two parts close together, or just the small emblems and surface detail. Theres a bunch of primer showing through in some small gap areas or overflow on the tiny skulls, I touched up some of them but not all. Overall I'm happy though and glad to be done, I'm going to base them with a dark jungle and fern look I think.
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Feb 13, 2019 08:33
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I like the green frag cannon on the Salamander, a nice touch. Wish I'd thought of it for my KT
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Feb 13, 2019 14:25
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The ephemeral nature of model companies' paints are why I prefer to use paint companies' paints instead. What's Morrow White might change or disappear with time, but I'm fairly confident I'll always be able to get a titanium or zinc white.
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Feb 13, 2019 16:27
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I am hopefully getting my Warmachine Cygnar Ironclad Heavy Warjack today in the mail. It has been delayed for multiple days due to bad weather where I live. Looking forward to painting this figure.
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Feb 13, 2019 16:49
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Funzo posted:Is there anywhere in the US to order these from? Shipping for a couple of brushes is almost the same as the cost of the brushes themselves. Wind river arts is tree only place in the us, bit with their markup and shipping, it's only a couple of bucks difference.
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Feb 13, 2019 17:20
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I have a question for the thread. I'm pretty far into developing a website (I mentioned this before) that will provide paint-matching across brands. Like, "what's Vallejo's equivalent to GW's <paint name here>". So far I have all of Vallejo, GW, Army Painter, Reaper, Revell, Tamiya, Federal Standard (and the EU equivalent) references in the database and I'm doing the mapping manually (soul crushing). The question is this: is it okay to just rely on Vallejo's "equivalencies charts" for the mapping (I use those because they are the most complete I found), or would there be a better way? Well the better way would be to do a chromatic analysis of each actual paint and have some algorithm sort the colors by chromatic closeness (I might be inventing terms here) but I can't buy every pot of every brand, and I wouldn't be sure how to properly measure the colors. So besides that method, is there any suggestion?
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Feb 13, 2019 18:12
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Furism posted:I have a question for the thread. There are places that sell colour charts painted with actual colours.
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Feb 13, 2019 19:35
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We just had a baby girl in November, so you know I had to justify my hobby time to Mom by painting up some cute things for her. These are from reaper and are tiny af.     
Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Feb 13, 2019 |
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Feb 13, 2019 19:58
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zokie posted:There are places that sell colour charts painted Like, for each of the brands I named? How accurate are those charts?
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Feb 13, 2019 20:38
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Mikey Purp posted:We just had a baby girl in November, so you know I had to justify my hobby time to Mom by painting up some cute things for her. These are from reaper and are tiny af. I love mouslings.
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Feb 13, 2019 20:49
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I've had a 2 sets of dwarves from the old Battle for Skull Pass box set sitting around for years. The last time I did any painting was back in about 2005. I ordered the Army Painter mega set, and went to town - This is the result of about 5-8 hours of painting, and I still need to add some layers to the beards to add some individuality, but besides that I'm pretty happy with them, and thought people might find them nostalgic or interesting. I've now started on the Thunderers and hope to complete them within the next week or so. I'm saving all the champions and lords and msuicians and stuff for later, to let me get warmed up on the rank and file troops. Sadly, I'm not even sure if I want to play this army, but I was sick of all that unpainted plastic! 
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Feb 14, 2019 03:04
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I hate the lovely cold weather I've had the last month. I keep wanting to prime stuff to paint but I have no where to do it inside and UGH
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Feb 14, 2019 03:26
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S.J. posted:I hate the lovely cold weather I've had the last month. I keep wanting to prime stuff to paint but I have no where to do it inside and UGH https://youtu.be/gzieAGj3XK4
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Feb 14, 2019 03:38
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Crosspost from the Historicals thread: painted me up another little WW2 tank, this time a Soviet KV-1 from the Flames of War Stalingrad starter box.
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Feb 14, 2019 04:37
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Furism posted:Like, for each of the brands I named? How accurate are those charts? I've seen hand painted charts at least for Vallejo, and being hand painted they should be pretty dang accurate?
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Feb 14, 2019 07:45
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Crosspost from the Historicals thread: painted me up another little WW2 tank, this time a Soviet KV-1 from the Flames of War Stalingrad starter box. That looks amazing. I really like the weathering on the lettering.
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Feb 14, 2019 15:06
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Furism posted:I have a question for the thread. You can't buy every color of every brand, but the hivemind could. Use the existing charts to get your tool setup, then create a system for people to submit standardized color samples. Like say have them place a dollop of paint onto a white 3x5 card and physically mail it to you. Then mark which entries in your tool are physically verified. This sounds like a super valuable hobby resource and I know I would help where I could.
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Feb 14, 2019 16:43
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I'd be willing to contribute. I certainly have a
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Feb 14, 2019 17:01
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RocknRollaAyatollah posted:That looks amazing. I really like the weathering on the lettering. Thanks! Here's another WW2 tank I just finished up last night, as well.  The German Panther tank from the Tanks starter box. I saw the camo scheme somewhere online and decided to adapt it. I wasn't worried about being 100% historically accurate, as from what I read they basically gave Private Fritz or whoever a couple buckets of paint and a guide on painting camo, and told them to have at it. 
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Feb 14, 2019 17:57
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Outside of just mixing in off-whites, any ideas on a good color to use for highlighting a bright orange skin?
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Feb 14, 2019 18:48
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S.J. posted:Outside of just mixing in off-whites, any ideas on a good color to use for highlighting a bright orange skin? I would use a pale flesh colour like GW Kislev Flesh.
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Feb 14, 2019 19:34
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:I would use a pale flesh colour like GW Kislev Flesh. That was my initial thought too, cool
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Feb 14, 2019 20:15
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:I would use a pale flesh colour like GW Kislev Flesh. I've been highlighting VGC hot orange skin with VMC basic skintone and it works great, so yeah.
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Feb 14, 2019 22:29
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This is probably a dumb questions, but: Since Taymia paints are alcohol based you do not thin them and they are okay to use right out of the pot, correct? What is the difference between plastic glue and plastic cement? I have Fuller's expert plastic glue and I adore it, but Fuller's only seems to sell plastic cement though their Amazon storefront. Googling was not very helpful.
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Feb 15, 2019 01:29
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Plastic cement is for polystyrene (and occasionally other kinds of plastic). It works by melting the plastic and then drying again, fusing the two parts together. Glue is, well, sticky.
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Feb 15, 2019 01:35
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Twincityhacker posted:This is probably a dumb questions, but: Just to add to what Avenging Dentist said, plastic (Edit) cement (not glue, my bad  ) is basically a solvent that melts and fuses the plastic together. It doesn't work on all the various kinds of plastic (such as the Bones minis or the restic stuff like old Warmahordes minis used to be), but if you're doing polystyrene/"hard plastic" stuff like GW figures or model tank kits or whatnot, it'll work just dandy.
Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Feb 15, 2019 |
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Feb 15, 2019 02:08
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Tamiya paints can be thinned just fine, you should use their thinner though. In a pinch you can thin it with water but it’s not recommended.
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Feb 15, 2019 02:35
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So plastic cement melts the pieces of PVC plastic together and plastic glue sticks pieces of plastic together, unless its PVC then the plastic glue melts them together? 
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Feb 15, 2019 03:23
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Twincityhacker posted:So plastic cement melts the pieces of PVC plastic together and plastic glue sticks pieces of plastic together, unless its PVC then the plastic glue melts them together? If a brand is distinguishing between plastic glue and plastic cement, I would guess that plastic glue is an adhesive that bonds well to plastic, and plastic cement is a solvent that melts and fuses two pieces of plastic together. I don't know what Fuller's is though (and Google isn't helpful), so I couldn't say what they're doing. It's also possible that they're the same product and they just updated the name (or they have different names for different regions).
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Feb 15, 2019 03:30
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Avenging Dentist posted:If a brand is distinguishing between plastic glue and plastic cement, I would guess that plastic glue is an adhesive that bonds well to plastic, and plastic cement is a solvent that melts and fuses two pieces of plastic together. I don't know what Fuller's is though (and Google isn't helpful), so I couldn't say what they're doing. It's also possible that they're the same product and they just updated the name (or they have different names for different regions). Adhesive vs. Solevent makes sense. And I think I got it from a place that did a model railroads, so they might go for that granular of a difference. Thank you all for the glue search and the thinner question.
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Feb 15, 2019 03:51
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Twincityhacker posted:So plastic cement melts the pieces of PVC plastic together and plastic glue sticks pieces of plastic together, unless its PVC then the plastic glue melts them together? I corrected a mistake in my earlier post, plastic cement is what I was referring to. I don't believe plastic cement melts PVC. Also, is what you're referring to Faller's expert plastic glue? I did some Googling and I didn't find a Fuller's plastic glue, but I did find Faller's. They're a German company, so maybe they had to market it as "plastic cement" rather than "plastic glue" for the US market or something. Otherwise, from what I can tell, they basically do the same thing (i.e., act as a solvent that melts plastic and fuses it together).
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Feb 15, 2019 03:52
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Yes, I ment Faller's not Fuller's. After I got home I looked at the item number on my bottle and compared it their entire product line, and it turns out that their Expert plastic glue is indeed labled as Expert plastic cement. Sometimes. I'm not sure why, but it is and 
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Feb 15, 2019 08:03
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So I bought the wrong(?) bottle of Vallejo gloss varnish. What is the practical difference between acrylic and polyurethane varnish?
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Feb 15, 2019 08:14
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