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That's Brek, altho i suspect those sorts of bespoke tube-forming mandrels are severe overkill / largely inapplicable for just workholding straight tube. ...I'm assuming there's no intent of spinning/stretching/otherwise plastic-forming the tubing, anyways, I figured just cleaning up/deburring and squaring up the cut ends. The commercial examples have rolled rims for ergonomics but this wouldn't be where you'd start trying to get into that. If all you really want is a nice flush face that sits with no gaps and deburred edges, it's also not too bad to do by hand for something like this- a combo half-round/flat file can debur ID and OD edges, and a range of sandpapers wrapped around a 2x4 can bring tubing edges flat and even surprisingly quickly. A belt sander will even out the edges even faster. They may not be perfectly square but I doubt it'll ruin the desserts. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Feb 8, 2019 |
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Feb 8, 2019 18:51
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Rolling thin sheet metal would 100% be my number one selection but I haven't built a slip roller yet  I think I will try chucking it up outside, if it does not work I'll just bite the bullet and buy some forms. And yeah I mainly just want to square up the ends, maybe take a finishing pass on the outside to make it look nice.
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Feb 8, 2019 19:00
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Why you want it so thin? Get some Sch. 80 black iron pipe nipples and go to town.
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Feb 8, 2019 19:55
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Yeah this seems vastly more complicated than necessary. Buy tube, cut with tube cutter (a single, inexpensive tool), clean/deburr edges with a hand file, sand a bit if you like, and you're done. e. or hell, I'd buy thick enough wall not to deform and just cut with a hacksaw. precision to the thousandths isn't necessary for a baking ring. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Feb 8, 2019 |
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Feb 8, 2019 20:12
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Because I want to make really nice looking stuff basically from free leftover stuff. I didn't think I needed to explain myself on that point to be honest. Have shop, have lathe, want to use it...
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Feb 8, 2019 20:17
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As the old sayin goes, "When you have a hammer..."
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Feb 8, 2019 20:23
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His Divine Shadow posted:Because I want to make really nice looking stuff basically from free leftover stuff. I didn't think I needed to explain myself on that point to be honest. Have shop, have lathe, want to use it... I mean, fair enough, but also "use the right tool for the job" and a lathe just doesn't strike me as the right tool for dealing with thin-walled tubing. I hope the suggestions to use different tools are taken as intended; helpful, not chastisements.
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Feb 8, 2019 20:25
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His Divine Shadow posted:Because I want to make really nice looking stuff basically from free leftover stuff. I didn't think I needed to explain myself on that point to be honest. Have shop, have lathe, want to use it... Well, yes, but 1) a lathe isn't really the right tool for that specific project you have in mind 2) if you're working with free scrap as your stock, you're limited to what that stock lets you do If you want to make really nice looking stuff from scrap you may need a ton of fancy expensive tools to make it do what you want. If you want to make really nice looking stuff using a nonoptimal set of tools you may need to start with material that's more suited to what you're doing. Those are the two suggestions people are giving you. Ambrose Burnside posted:wildcard alternatives for tubing support: eutectic low-melting alloys, tin, a cast-in-place slug of hard urethane rubber pushed out of hte first tube and reused for the rest, hard chaser's pitch. lead is also fantastic for this but it's rather out of vogue nowadays for some, some reason, i cant quite remember why, also why are my extremities always numb This is a really cool suggestion though. I always forget about casting Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Feb 9, 2019 |
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Feb 9, 2019 02:29
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His Divine Shadow posted:Because I want to make really nice looking stuff basically from free leftover stuff. I didn't think I needed to explain myself on that point to be honest. Have shop, have lathe, want to use it... Listen, never mind faffing around with delicate patisserie, how are you getting on with your mill and specifically how’d that engine hoist work out? I’m starting to worry I may have bitten off more than I can chew in my youthful *cough cough* exuberance and I really really need to figure out how to get a top heavy 3086lb lump off a Trailer. When it says 2756 net, 3086 gross, is the gross mean when packed for shipping? Not that 2756 is any easier in practical terms.
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Feb 9, 2019 19:35
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That worked out fine, I think I wrote about it earlier. I'm currently waiting for parts/material and generally just lacking time, or the energy when I got time spare. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2905844&userid=12010&perpage=40&pagenumber=9#post491526937 https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2905844&userid=12010&perpage=40&pagenumber=9#post491124958
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Feb 9, 2019 20:27
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I'm not a lathemancer but could you get a rubber slug a near-fit to the inside of the tube with a small hole down the middle, put a threaded rod or long bolt down it and washer/nut the other end, tighten them up to squeeze out to put pressure on the pipe walls?
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Feb 9, 2019 20:36
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cakesmith handyman posted:I'm not a lathemancer but could you get a rubber slug a near-fit to the inside of the tube with a small hole down the middle, put a threaded rod or long bolt down it and washer/nut the other end, tighten them up to squeeze out to put pressure on the pipe walls? You can make an expanding mandrel that does exactly what cakesmith is mentioning. I'd probably make a solid mandrel that was a press fit to the bore of the piece I was working on. Once done turning either heat up the sleeve or cool down the mandrel.   Source : https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/expanding-mandrel.21810/ edit : The one with the basic slits and a tapered pipe plug would work good if you have a pipe tap, nice and easy. Yooper fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Feb 9, 2019 |
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Feb 9, 2019 23:40
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What I don't understand is how a chuck is "destroying" steel pipe. You shouldn't have to tighten it that much to take a light cut. e: If it's slipping, put some rubber shims between the jaws and the pipe. Eugene V. Dubstep fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Feb 10, 2019 |
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Feb 10, 2019 00:05
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   Made a welder cart around a Husky tool box and got a little carried away. There's more to do, too. I can pack a lot more poo poo on there, I think.
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Feb 10, 2019 05:23
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That is a drat nice setup.
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Feb 10, 2019 06:07
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Welders are a gateway tool
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Feb 10, 2019 06:19
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I have a gear question. Is this the right thread? What's the difference between a helical gear whose teeth are angled 45° and a worm gear with the same teeth angle? I'd say they're the same, except latter is super wide. Or is there also a difference in teeth shape? (This is about doing a Torsen T2 diff.)
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Feb 11, 2019 16:52
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Do your clamps fall off when you're pushing it around?
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Feb 11, 2019 19:50
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I've got 1/8" thick 3/4" washers welded on the front of the little posts, and they're up at a 5ish degree angle. If I went off-roading, the dewalt grinder (and probably the whole drat welder) would fall off first.
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Feb 12, 2019 00:08
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Combat Pretzel posted:I have a gear question. Is this the right thread? What's the difference between a helical gear whose teeth are angled 45° and a worm gear with the same teeth angle? I'd say they're the same, except latter is super wide. Or is there also a difference in teeth shape? (This is about doing a Torsen T2 diff.) They work entirely differently in terms of mechanical advantage/ratio and how they actually get used, they may have some cosmetic similarities but they're not much alike beyond that. The biggest similarity probably is that both can change the rotation angle by 90o depending on what they mesh with. Worm gears are effectively screws with single- or multi-start threads and allow extreme ratio reduction in one step because an entire rotation of the worm gear typically only advances the gear it meshes with by a single tooth (or two, or w/e dependent on the number of starts, iirc- but there's a fairly low cap on how many starts you want to bother with in a screw). Worm gears also tend to be self-locking- friction ends up overwhelming drivetrain forces acting on the worm and nothing wants to move unless the worm is driven. Helical gears are really just fancy spur gears in most ways; the angled teeth make for smoother, quieter operation with less wear and slop. They do not, unlike a worm, constitute a screw, none of the 'threads' complete more than a fraction of a rotation. and most importantly, every tooth is effectively a separate 'start' (if we treat it like a worm gear). A helical gear meshing with another similar gear could obviously never advance the second gear a single tooth per rotation no matter how you designed it. A worm gear paired with a spur gear can easily achieve, say, 1:50, or even 1:100 in a single step; a helical gear would be unlikely to get 1:10 in a single step and most would be designed for far less for reasons of practicality. They're also not self-locking. A visual comparison helps:   It should be apparent how each type drives other gears in a fundamentally-different way. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Feb 12, 2019 |
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Feb 12, 2019 02:04
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Yea, but say the teeth are at 45°, a worm gear is essentially just a super-wide helical? I'm trying to make sense of this, because the words worm gear and wheel still fall, even tho it doesn't look like it to me:
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Feb 12, 2019 14:19
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Combat Pretzel posted:Yea, but say the teeth are at 45°, a worm gear is essentially just a super-wide helical? I'm trying to make sense of this, because the words worm gear and wheel still fall, even tho it doesn't look like it to me: A worm gear would not have teeth set at a 45 degree angle.
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Feb 12, 2019 14:46
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Combat Pretzel posted:Yea, but say the teeth are at 45°, a worm gear is essentially just a super-wide helical? I'm trying to make sense of this, because the words worm gear and wheel still fall, even tho it doesn't look like it to me: "If you altered a worm gear such that it was no longer a worm gear in the ways that matter but instead a helix gear, it would essentially just be a wide helix gear" is technically correct, yes. e: that's kinda flippant, sorry- you're not wrong in that at a macro level worms and helix gears have very similar geometries with a few key aspects changed. The reason why they are differentiated thus despite this similarity is because those differences make for very different suitabilities and applications. If it helps for this purpose, you can think of a worm screw as a special kind of modified helical gear assembly that 1) has a small number of starts, (i.e., teeth) often just one but as many as 6 or higher 2) those starts are extended into multiple full revolutions, i.e. its a screw 3) almost always has a special matched driven gear, the "worm wheel", that is profiled to conform to that specific screw and the geometry of its teeth, and which has comparatively many 'starts' (iirc no fewer than... 20-something teeth are recommended) 4) almost always auto-locks, i.e. frictional forces prevent the worm wheel from driving it 5) has a very high gear ratio, 1:10ish or higher but with that said, if something meets that approximate description, do not think of it as a helix gear, because that specific arrangement isn't called that and it infers a bunch of other assumed stuff that will be misleading (not a gear expert this is not not drivetrain legal advice etc etc) Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Feb 13, 2019 |
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Feb 13, 2019 18:15
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A worm gear, stripped of all its specializations and reduced to "just matched perpendicular helical gears with 45-degree teeth", -is- a thing-  but it's usually called a screw gear, and isn't long like a worm. Which would be pointless; as you can see, the contact area on conventional helical gears in a worm configuration is comparatively low, any wider and the rest would just churn air. The worm in a worm gear can be long because the two-piece assembly 'worm gear' implies is built around enabling multiple turns of a single tooth to fully engage the wheel simultaneously. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Feb 14, 2019 |
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Feb 13, 2019 21:55
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I should pipe up being a mechanical engineer but man I just haven't had much exposure to gears lol
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Feb 14, 2019 03:31
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McSpergin posted:I should pipe up being a mechanical engineer but man I just haven't had much exposure to gears lol get in the shop and make some it's good for the soul
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Feb 14, 2019 04:01
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Ambrose Burnside posted:(not a gear expert this is not not drivetrain legal advice etc etc) Just figured chances are higher to get a few answers in a thread about machining instead in one about melting plastic.
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Feb 14, 2019 04:10
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shame on an IGA posted:get in the shop and make some it's good for the soul I wish, my company makes specialty process equipment and don't have the gear to do so. I don't miss my old job but I miss the old workshop with all its gear (lathe, mig, tig, drill press, belt grinder)
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Feb 14, 2019 07:42
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Combat Pretzel posted:This is about creating an LSD diff for a 3D printed buggy, no one's gonna die. Having peripherally been involved in a project involving a 3d-printed drivetrain: make your chassis as stiff as you possibly can, because boy howdy do 3d-printed gears like to slip.
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Feb 14, 2019 07:50
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Ambrose Burnside posted:A worm gear, stripped of all its specializations and reduced to "just matched perpendicular helix gears with 45-degree teeth", -is- a thing- Looks like what I got inside the saddle on my lathe that drives the cross slide.
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Feb 14, 2019 09:27
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Ugh. Right, so the forklift driver tried to lift the mill and decided it’s too unstable - when he tried to tip the forks back it rocked alarmingly. Next plan is to lift it with a sling under the forks onto a pallet. And this was supposed to be the easy bit  In other news, apparently mig welding mild steel causes carcinogenic fumes...
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Feb 16, 2019 00:08
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Rapulum_Dei posted:In other news, apparently mig welding mild steel causes carcinogenic fumes... I'd imagine any sort of hotwork whatsoever involves exposure to elevated risk factors for cancer, but that's more because so many goddamn things contribute to cancer risks when compounded over a lifetime. In the same way that the dose makes the poison, the specifics of what "carcinogenic" entails here are critical to knowing what that actually means. Finely-divided inhaled asbestos is carcinogenic; so is, in some technical sense, the char on a steak. But you could eat a burnt steak every day of your life and it certainly wouldn't represent the same risk factor as, say, participating in a single-day blue asbestos shovelling contest would.  (every single person in this photo except for one, taken in the 60s, has died of asbestosis, mesothelioma or an associated condition; stay frosty out there)
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Feb 16, 2019 00:20
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I won an auction for an old Bridgeport Mill.   The price was right, so I bid on it sight unseen. It was in use until very recently. I'm pretty stoked. They also had a much nicer Index mill, but I didn't have the space for it.
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Feb 16, 2019 00:40
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I hope that red tag was because it was being sold 
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Feb 16, 2019 01:20
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Yeah I sucked air through my teeth when I saw that.
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Feb 16, 2019 01:28
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Doublepost, here is my door knocker from my blacksmithing class so far. This class has been a blast so far!
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Feb 16, 2019 01:29
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Super Waffle posted:I hope that red tag was because it was being sold Yeah, it was listed as working, so I hope so too.
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Feb 16, 2019 03:10
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Super Waffle posted:I hope that red tag was because it was being sold it's okay, how expensive could a set of spindle bearings be anyway?
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Feb 16, 2019 04:49
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stik posted:Yeah, it was listed as working, so I hope so too. The "Reason" category has the "Not Needed" box marked, so hopefully they're just clearing out older equipment. Or, they may not need it anymore because it's all hosed up. You never know with how most people tag poo poo.
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Feb 16, 2019 05:16
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Sagebrush posted:it's okay, how expensive could a set of spindle bearings be anyway? Hey at least you can get new bearings. On the Deckel vertical head the head and spindle are the inner outer races and you just got a needle cage. If they get worn you can replace with incrementally larger rollers until it fits, if it's damaged the only way I know is to send it to Franz Singer in Germany for machining. Apparently it's super cheap at 1000 euros and change.
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Feb 16, 2019 07:41
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