|
Penultimate update to the overdrive situation: Retired mechanic uncle, based on the stuff I've done, says it's 99.99% likely the solenoid is just toast. Resigned to my fate, I went to my trusted "get it done right and fast" shop and braced for wallet rape. However, apparently this is the easiest auto trans to work on in the universe, because their software spit out 1.5 hours total job time. $170 labor, plus new fluid and gaskets/filter (since it's open anyway) and the solenoid. I may get out of this for under $300 which is amazing. So this is what I'm dealing with:  How do I figure out which transmission I have? This affects both the gaskets and the filter, though the solenoid is generic, thank gently caress.
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 03:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 17:44 |
|
|
Uthor posted:I just did the A/C recall on my folks CR-V that is affecting 1.5L turbos from Honda. The dealership said they drained and refilled the oil, but didn't change the filter. The car is saying it is due for an oil change. I'm torn between doing one next time I'm home and just resetting the computer as they basically just had one done. Any advice? Service schedule on my 2013 actually only calls for a filter every other change. Not sure if the turbo 1.5 is different.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 04:15
|
|
|
spankmeister posted:*Insurance* Right on. Thanks for chiming in! I was concerned about the damage and repairs exceeding the value of the car, but I wasn't sure how the process would play out. We're going to mull over our options but, I can tell you, you're definitely on point with the headlights needing service. I was considering upgrading to e-codes, including adding relays for the circuit, because these things are especially dim. Being frosted over sure isn't helping, either.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 05:25
|
|
|
Wally Joyner posted:This is the damage: Honestly, you run the risk of insurance totaling it, just because of the age if nothing else (insurance will probably value it at not much more than scrap value unless it's in exceptional condition, and they'll probably throw in bumper refinishing and some radiator support repair). The guy took the effort to track her down afterwards, which is better than what 99% of people do when they hit a car in a parking lot. You may see if he's up for just paying for parts out of pocket. Going brand new on them is kinda pointless on a nearly 30 year old car, though. And hit up eBay or a DIY junkyard for parts, you should save a large chunk of money. Though once the headlamp is out, make sure nothing it mounts to is bent (I'm betting it is, just from seeing how it's sitting). You may need to give whatever it mounts to a little love with a mallet to make it line up right(ish). Or, go e-codes and just hit him up for whatever the US parts he damaged would have cost used, if he's willing to pay out of pocket (if not, insurance, tell them you'd prefer to fix it yourself [or if they say they're going to total it, buy it back and use whatever money they give you to fix it]). That's what I'd do, so long as the EU headlights use a bulb that you can easily get in the US. I had JDM lights on a car that used a bulb you couldn't easily get here, I quickly learned to carry a (very loving expensive) set of spare bulbs unless I wanted to drive around a week or two with a light out.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 08:48
|
|
|
Edit: never mind found it.
AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Feb 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 14:49
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Does anyone got any tips for repairing door panels? Both panels on my 1997 Ford F250 HD are pretty bad. Ford, in their infinite wisdom, made a thin lip on top that fit into the window well, with little rectangles cut out of that lip where the window seals clip into. Guess where they commonly break. Anyone? Or how about a recommendation for a good glue for plastic? Some of the little plastic clips that the door panel fasteners fit into broke off the panel and I need to put them back on.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 20:21
|
|
|
Does anybody make an amber 7443 LED that isn't poo poo? My '07 WRX's front turn signals/running lights are dual-filament 7443 bulbs, and I had a hard time finding any incandescents that weren't sold in a 10-pack from China. So, like a moron, I paid ~$15 for two LED replacements from China.  They work fine as running lights and just as turn signals, but if I have the turn signal on and the running lights on at the same time the turn signal will eventually fade and only the running light remains. If I turn the running light off the turn signal works but it's only at "running light" brightness. If I let them sit completely off for a few minutes they come back to full dual-filament functionality, then quickly fade when I use the turn signal and running light again. What is going on there? Heat build-up? They have heatsinks at their base, is it just garbage LED design?
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 20:34
|
|
|
this 2016 toyota camry is the newest car i've owned in a while. i noticed it doesn't have a dipstick for the transmission fluid and the manual doesn't say anything about it, wtf is the transmisison fluid drain and replace interval people do on these things? do i need to have it done by the dealer or is it a huge headache to do myself? i don't trust the idea that it should never be changed, am i crazy for that?
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 21:21
|
|
|
Fifty Three posted:Does anybody make an amber 7443 LED that isn't poo poo? I'm going to go out on a limb and say your problem is "garbage design." I've been pretty happy with LED replacements from this brand (JDM ASTAR) on Amazon. A lack of visible difference between stages is a problem on a lot of LED replacement bulbs but I can report the difference is very noticeable with these.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 21:25
|
|
|
Big Bowie Bonanza posted:this 2016 toyota camry is the newest car i've owned in a while. i noticed it doesn't have a dipstick for the transmission fluid and the manual doesn't say anything about it, wtf is the transmisison fluid drain and replace interval people do on these things? do i need to have it done by the dealer or is it a huge headache to do myself? i don't trust the idea that it should never be changed, am i crazy for that? Yeah, Toyota probably insists it's a lifetime design, which is loving stupid. On a lot of them you need an adapter to fill it through the drain plug.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 21:41
|
|
|
A shop looked at my car due a broken CV axle, spindle, and busted lower control arm. While in the shop, they wanted me to spend $280 for replacing the front brake pads. I asked if that brake job would include the rotors as well, they said no. I did a quick search, I think brake pads for my 2012 Chevrolet Impala LT should cost about $20 give or take depending on if I want cheap or expensive pads. I watched a short youtube video which explained the process as 1) remove the wheel 2) unbolt the caliper 3) remove the old pads 4) use a fancy tool to compress the piston 5) slather lube on the BACK side of the new pads 6) installation is reverse of removal. Next I went to Harbor Freight to check on the price of the tool to compress the piston $50. Is this tool actually necessary or could I possibly get by with just a regular C-clamp and maybe a scrap block of wood? I haven't checked on the cost of renting the tool from autozone or similar.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 22:05
|
|
|
Front pads, a c clamp should be enough, but the tool is easier. Can probably rent one for free. Rear pads may require the tool to rotate the piston as you compress depending on the design of the parking brake.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 22:24
|
|
|
Crotch Fruit posted:A shop looked at my car due a broken CV axle, spindle, and busted lower control arm. While in the shop, they wanted me to spend $280 for replacing the front brake pads. I asked if that brake job would include the rotors as well, they said no. I did a quick search, I think brake pads for my 2012 Chevrolet Impala LT should cost about $20 give or take depending on if I want cheap or expensive pads. I watched a short youtube video which explained the process as 1) remove the wheel 2) unbolt the caliper 3) remove the old pads 4) use a fancy tool to compress the piston 5) slather lube on the BACK side of the new pads 6) installation is reverse of removal. Next I went to Harbor Freight to check on the price of the tool to compress the piston $50. Is this tool actually necessary or could I possibly get by with just a regular C-clamp and maybe a scrap block of wood? I haven't checked on the cost of renting the tool from autozone or similar. How many pistons do your calipers have? If it's only one, then go ahead and use the C clamp. If not, use the wood. Watch where you put the clamp on the caliper. Don't break the hose attachment or the bleeder screw. Also, you need a giant C clamp, like 6-8 inches.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 22:25
|
|
|
Big Bowie Bonanza posted:this 2016 toyota camry is the newest car i've owned in a while. i noticed it doesn't have a dipstick for the transmission fluid and the manual doesn't say anything about it, wtf is the transmisison fluid drain and replace interval people do on these things? do i need to have it done by the dealer or is it a huge headache to do myself? i don't trust the idea that it should never be changed, am i crazy for that? Its probably best to change it. It should have two bolts on the pan, one to drain, one to check(your not looking for a steady stream, just a dribble) . There is a third higher up to fill. Trans has to be at the right temperature. There is a tool toyota uses that pumps the fluid in. Only use toyota WS fluid. Its a pain in the rear end to do, but the results were worth it for me. https://youtu.be/cNcecuGzTDg
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 23:12
|
|
|
C-clamp, no slathering crap on the back of the pads if you spring for at least the "not flying off a cliff special" pads from Dollar General. I haven't ran into the anti-squeal orange crap in years.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 23:50
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
I use the old pad to compress the pistons back in, along with a C-clamp.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2019 23:56
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:I haven't ran into the anti-squeal orange crap in years. If you're talking about the stuff in a bottle I still use it. On some stupid old german cars that I have as well as the wife's land cruiser poo poo starts squeaking when cold not long after install if I don't. Squeal goes away as soon after a couple of stops (and almost never is a problem in the summer) but is never a problem if I put some of that on. So I suppose a lot of that could be living in the salted northeast. But I'm still convinced it's worth it, at least for me.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 00:09
|
|
|
If you have them huge channel locks work well for compressing calipers and are quite a bit faster than cranking at a C clamp as long as your brake system is in good shape. I live in a rust-free area so ymmv. e: These guys: 
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Feb 23, 2019 |
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 01:38
|
|
|
I got one of those specialized good because my rear calipers need to turn while being compressed.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 01:48
|
|
|
Crotch Fruit posted:A shop looked at my car due a broken CV axle, spindle, and busted lower control arm. While in the shop, they wanted me to spend $280 for replacing the front brake pads. I asked if that brake job would include the rotors as well, they said no. I did a quick search, I think brake pads for my 2012 Chevrolet Impala LT should cost about $20 give or take depending on if I want cheap or expensive pads. I watched a short youtube video which explained the process as 1) remove the wheel 2) unbolt the caliper 3) remove the old pads 4) use a fancy tool to compress the piston 5) slather lube on the BACK side of the new pads 6) installation is reverse of removal. Next I went to Harbor Freight to check on the price of the tool to compress the piston $50. Is this tool actually necessary or could I possibly get by with just a regular C-clamp and maybe a scrap block of wood? I haven't checked on the cost of renting the tool from autozone or similar. Rent the tool. You *can* do it without, but it's a stupid pain. I did it for years because I'm an idiot. Renting it is basically buying and returning it, so it's free in the long run. Edit: I use the anti-squeal because I bought a small bottle of it, and it's probably enough to last my future grandchildren's lives.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 02:46
|
|
|
Unless you're going to pay for brake jobs in the future, just buy a non-harbor-freight one. Your time has a value, what you don't spend now in $ you will spend driving to home depot to rent the things every couple years. It's like entry level auto work, your odds of somehow hating it so much you never do it again are pretty weak.
Javid fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Feb 23, 2019 |
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 03:16
|
|
|
2016 Hyundai Tucson with the 1.6l Turbo engine. At about 54k km I replaced the spark plugs. When I pulled one of the plugs, I noticed a metal shaving on the insulator. After talking with McTinkerson, he thought it would be a good idea to take a look inside. I borrowed his USB probe camera and took a few pictures. Here's the picture of the plug with shaving(s) on it: (Thumbnailed)  These 3 are from the cylinder where the metal shaving came out:    These 3 are for comparison from a different cylinder:    Is there anything compelling in there? I know the pictures aren't super high resolution. Is it worth taking in to the dealership to have it looked at under warranty?
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 03:42
|
|
|
spankmeister posted:I got one of those specialized good because my rear calipers need to turn while being compressed. That's a huge gotchya for people just learning this. Basically all rear calipers that have integrated parking brakes (i.e. not a supplementary set of drums back there) are gonna need this.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 04:00
|
|
|
God, the Honda rear calipers that require turning to compress the piston are such a giant PITA. I picked up this universal tool cube-thing at AutoZone for $10 that worked well, but it still took a ton of compressive force and intense concentration. Then I did my sister’s brakes on her ‘08 CR-V In 6-minutes because all they need is a 10” C-clamp.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 05:15
|
|
|
Ugh, the cube.... Rent the pucks/spreader for free if you need to do rears.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 05:43
|
|
|
gently caress the cube forever. Might as well struggle to turn it in with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 05:52
|
|
|
For those not familiar with the cube...it is well, a cube. Has different sized nubs on each side that tries to fit various brake pistons and a 3/8" extension fits into each side. So basically you pick the right side of the cube and apply Herculean force while trying to keep the cube in place to rotate and push the piston back. Hence, gently caress the cube.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 05:59
|
|
|
Re: brake cube chat. Do it the easy as gently caress way: Find the right side of the cube, put it on your caliper piston, and attach a 3/8" drive extension to that poo poo. Get a drill and put that poo poo on a low torque/easy to trip the clutch setting on your cordless drill with an adaptor from like 1/4" hex to 3/8" square. Spin the 3/8" drive/brake caliper cube slowly, in the appropriate direction to compress the piston back in to caliper. If you start spinning the rubber dust boot along with the piston, then stop, untwist that poo poo and maybe even put a dab of lube in there so you don't twist the poo poo out of the boot and tear it. Continue spinning that poo poo with power drill and reap the benefits of power tools. Add new brake pads when piston is compressed completely. Laugh at motherfuckers who use pliers and other poo poo to try and compress piston for hours on end.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 07:59
|
|
|
Crotch Fruit posted:A shop looked at my car due a broken CV axle, spindle, and busted lower control arm. While in the shop, they wanted me to spend $280 for replacing the front brake pads. I asked if that brake job would include the rotors as well, they said no. I did a quick search, I think brake pads for my 2012 Chevrolet Impala LT should cost about $20 give or take depending on if I want cheap or expensive pads. I watched a short youtube video which explained the process as 1) remove the wheel 2) unbolt the caliper 3) remove the old pads 4) use a fancy tool to compress the piston 5) slather lube on the BACK side of the new pads 6) installation is reverse of removal. Next I went to Harbor Freight to check on the price of the tool to compress the piston $50. Is this tool actually necessary or could I possibly get by with just a regular C-clamp and maybe a scrap block of wood? I haven't checked on the cost of renting the tool from autozone or similar. Something like this works well for a basic single piston caliper like what you have, and it's usually at most Walmarts and most parts stores for about  . Or yeah, a C-clamp and one of your old pads works too, it's just a bit more cumbersome.Rear pads can be a bit more of a pain if it's the type of piston that has to be screwed back in, as others pointed out. If you need front rotors, it's only 2 more bolts (and possibly a hammer if they're rusted to the hub, they usually break free with a couple of smacks around the edge of the rotor - use eye protection in case the rotor chips). And as you've discovered, brake jobs are a MASSIVE profit center for shops - a simple pad slap should take an hour, tops, but most shops will nail you hard for them. I'm surprised they only wanted $280; NTB quoted my mother $900 the other day (front pads and rotors). My stepdad's mechanic did all 4 wheels (pads and rotors) for $450, which is still a ripoff to me, but honestly pretty reasonable given what most shops would charge. It did need all 4 done (rear rotors original, front ones done with the last pad swap, but it had ceramics, and it got down to the backing plates). And I'm not local to her anymore, so I can't just drop by and knock out a brake job for her. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:06 on Feb 23, 2019 |
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 09:04
|
|
|
Hi, Beginner question here. Trying to improve my manual driving skills. One week in. Keeping RPMs matched. Generally improving on my ability to not lurch foward when I go from Neutral/Brake to First. Its overall a very positive experience. I do have a few questions that my car hasn't given me answers to yet. Firstly, what is the standard practice when it comes to going from Nuetral, to First, to Second to Third...ect. Should I be going in order? And vice versa. When I come to a stop on say third, I find going from a third to neutral then brake to be easiest. When it comes to skipping gears. How is it generally approched?
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 15:40
|
|
|
rdb posted:Its probably best to change it. It should have two bolts on the pan, one to drain, one to check(your not looking for a steady stream, just a dribble) . There is a third higher up to fill. Trans has to be at the right temperature. There is a tool toyota uses that pumps the fluid in. Only use toyota WS fluid. this is dumb, but thank you for the video. i'm going to do it because the idea of transmission fluid that never goes bad is absurd.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 15:40
|
|
|
zaepg posted:I do have a few questions that my car hasn't given me answers to yet. Firstly, what is the standard practice when it comes to going from Nuetral, to First, to Second to Third...ect. Should I be going in order? And vice versa. When I come to a stop on say third, I find going from a third to neutral then brake to be easiest. Generally, you up shift in order. I sometimes skip the next to last gear if I accelerated quickly (I'm at speed in 4th and want to cruise in 6th, I'll skip 5th). It's a larger difference in RPMs, so you'll need to be more careful getting the revs matched or you'll put extra wear on your clutch. Down shifting, I skip gears more often, like being on the interstate in 6th and dropping to 4th to make a pass. Coming to a stop, I personally down shift as I slow (assuming it's not a sudden stop) down to about 3rd, then brake until the RPMs get to about idle, then clutch in and shift into neutral. Others don't bother down shifting and will brake/clutch the same way in whatever gear they were traveling in. Slightly better fuel economy and less wear on brakes versus less wear on the clutch, pick your poison. (I just enjoy the act of down shifting). Not a lot of reason to shift into 2nd or 1st when coming to a stop. When stopped, put the transmission in neutral and get off the clutch.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 15:59
|
|
|
My 2005 civic (5 speed, silver) developed a grinding sound as it rolls from the front left wheel. I thought it might be a stuck caliper and I've had my first chance today to get the car up on jacks and there's no sign of a stuck caliper...the brake pads have plenty of material and the rotor is in good shape. What else could be the source of that noise? I had a wheel bearing go bad on that side about 6 years ago and had it replaced. Could it be going out again? And if so, why is this thing eating front left bearings? Edit: possibly related: it needs an alignment pretty bad but I wanted to get the strange sounds cleared up before I took it to a shop. tactlessbastard fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Feb 23, 2019 |
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 16:14
|
|
|
I almost never go through the gears sequentially when getting up to speed anyway since on my car it isn't needed. Depends on the car, but I don't think I've ever driven a manual car that needed to be up-shifted sequentially and wasn't smoother/easier to just skip gears in. Obviously depends on traffic and/or speeds.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 16:22
|
|
|
The Internet says that a bad passenger side bearing can make noise that sounds like it's coming from the driver side. If the right one is going out that would make a lot of sense. I'm sure it was the driver side that got replaced before because they asked if I wanted the timing belt and water pump done while they were in there and I very stupidly said nah, I'll take care of that myself. Maybe I need to resurrect my 'Im in over my head' thread lol. Edit: with both front wheels off the passenger side hub won't rotate in 3rd gear while the driver side is humming along at 40mph (and grinding) tactlessbastard fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Feb 23, 2019 |
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 16:55
|
|
|
zaepg posted:Hi, Skip gears anytime you want, but depends on the situation. Automatics skip gears all the time. Funny thing is GM (maybe they don't anymore) puts servos in the shifter to force a 1-3 shift all for the goal of fuel economy when not in WOT mode. And of course there are delete kits for that sort of horseshit. And the likes of Mazda today have servos which makes taking off from a stop a lot easier, along with incline braking. Don't rest your foot on the clutch pedal. It might not sound like much, but there is quite a bit of leverage applied and hits that pilot bearing. It's a great skill to learn and it really is like riding a bicycle. Once you got it you won't forget. You'll be able to hop into just about anything and within a couple hundred feet you know what to do. Just listen to your car, it will tell you when you gently caress up. But be forewarned, be careful on downshifting. Engines have rev limiters but they can't overcome when you hit a lower gear than you intended. In short, you are on the right track. Cheers.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 21:31
|
|
|
It’s worse than that, GM skipshift is from first to FOURTH. That is day-one-of-ownership delete poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 22:02
|
|
|
I'm looking at replacement injectors for one of my cars. There are two injectors available, with identical specifications except the resistances are different (14.5 vs 15.9). What effect, if any, would the different resistance have?
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 22:14
|
|
|
What car?
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 22:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 17:44 |
|
|
What are the resistances of your current injectors?
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2019 23:00
|
|
