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tactlessbastard posted:... Passenger side front wheel bearing is toast.
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Feb 24, 2019 00:54
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This loving van. Turn key to start, *click*. Release key, *un-click*. Dead starter relay? Or something else since the relay is still clicking around?
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Feb 24, 2019 01:23
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Dead starter or solenoid, give it some light taps with a soft hammer and see if it comes back.
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Feb 24, 2019 01:29
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PainterofCrap posted:Passenger side front wheel bearing is toast. But it's making noise even when the wheel isn't turning.....oooooooooooooooh
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Feb 24, 2019 01:31
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It came back after I spent a few minutes poking at the various relays over on that side. Didn't touch the actual starter itself. There are apparently at least three possible models of starter relay this thing could have, and two of those models are represented under the hood in the area indicated in the manual.  I took them out one at a time and tried the starter to figure out which one was doing the clicking and it matches the one rockauto and autozone want to sell me, but not napa, and oreilly's is just like "lol what starter relay?". gently caress.
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Feb 24, 2019 01:34
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Is there any reason or way a starter or alternator that was going bad would be fine with an old battery, but not a new one? I brought my 2006 Scion xA to a tire/brake chain to get my brakes done, and they also recommended replacing my old, corrosion-riddled battery. Sure, fine. When I picked it up, it wouldn't start. They jumped it, I drove it for a half hour, went home, parked, and it was dead. Tech came out, jumped it again, had me drive it back to the shop. Put in a second battery. Same thing. Jumped it again, advised me not to turn off the engine until I got it to a shop that could work on those parts. I parked to look up a shop, when to turn on the headlights, and the car died. They're going to hold it for the weekend and look at it again/have someone else look at it, but I'm worried they're going to maintain it was like that already and leave me with the cost of whatever it is. I had no issues withthe battery, or the car starting, or anything until they changed the battery, so, what the hell?
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Feb 24, 2019 03:31
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RabbitMage posted:Is there any reason or way a starter or alternator that was going bad would be fine with an old battery, but not a new one? My vote is a bad cable or loose connection somewhere.
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Feb 24, 2019 04:44
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MrYenko posted:It’s worse than that, GM skipshift is from first to FOURTH. It is truly an astoundingly awful thing. You get to choose between starting as gently as humanly possible, or like a maniac. Anything in between results in swearing and lugging in 4th gear and being unhappy about your life choices so far. It makes me feel like Hammond in that bit where he launch controls everywhere around town. (Until $15 defeater circuit rescues me)
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Feb 24, 2019 04:52
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STR posted:Something like this works well for a basic single piston caliper like what you have, and it's usually at most Walmarts and most parts stores for about
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Feb 24, 2019 05:02
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. Or yeah, a C-clamp and one of your old pads works too, it's just a bit more cumbersome.
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PabloBOOM posted:It is truly an astoundingly awful thing. You get to choose between starting as gently as humanly possible, or like a maniac. Anything in between results in swearing and lugging in 4th gear and being unhappy about your life choices so far. Counterpoint: CAGS saves you the gas guzzler tax (or at least used to). Worth it IMO since it's so easy to defeat.
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Feb 24, 2019 05:50
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2018 Prius V. Tire Pressure warning on dashboard after swapping out seasonal wheels. Have triple-checked tire inflation and it's up to spec. Holding down the reset button beneath the steering wheel turns off the error only temporarily, and the warning light reappears in a few hours. How do you reset AND re-calibrate the tire pressure system? My 2007 Corolla has this dumb loving trickery where you have to Turn ignition to 'ON' , hold down tire pressure reset button until indicator disappears, release button, hold down tire pressure reset button until TPMS telltale flashes 3 times, then drive around for 10 minutes for initialization to complete. I figure that there is some sort of similar trick to to the Prius V, we just haven't figured it out, yet.
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Feb 24, 2019 05:55
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melon cat posted:2018 Prius V. Do these other tires even have the TPMS sensors? Are the tires inflated to the proper pressure? Do they have batteries? I'd assume that TPMS sensors do have batteries, but I've never actually put more than 3 seconds of thought in to whether they actually do or not.
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Feb 24, 2019 06:12
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2001 Honda Accord w/ 200k, 2.3L 4 cyl It *might* have a head gasket leak - I got home tonight with a small puddle of brownish opaque liquid (more like a sludge) under where my engine is where I usually park. It's dark and poorly lit so I'm going to take a better look in the morning, but my question is this - how effective are those various head gasket repair liquids? I don't really have the cash to take it to a mechanic for the fix, nor the tools to do it myself (though on this car I understand it's supposed to be easier than most). I'm hoping it's something else though I have no idea what - it's unlikely anyone else parked there (private parking and I was only gone for about 15 minutes). Alternatively, any other ideas on what it could be? There wasn't much of it, it was basically a baby poo poo brown sludge. I can get a photo in morning, check for white smoke, under the hood, etc., so anything that would be helpful to diagnose it, just let me know.
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Feb 24, 2019 06:51
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Shooting Blanks posted:how effective are those various head gasket repair liquids? Very effective. At clogging your heater core, radiator and sometimes even smaller passages and hoses in the cooling system, sometimes allowing you to limp along for a while more on the bad head gasket but turning the head gasket job into a head gasket + radiator + heater core + some hoses + a lot of flushing.
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Feb 24, 2019 07:00
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Motronic posted:Very effective. Well poo poo. Here's hoping for good news tomorrow I guess.
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Feb 24, 2019 07:07
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melon cat posted:2018 Prius V. Information about the tpms system can be found in the owners manual as there are a few different methods to determine tyre pressure you need to know what it is your system is actually looking for
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Feb 24, 2019 08:14
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melon cat posted:2018 Prius V. Pretty sure toyota TPMS systems require sensor IDs to be programmed to the vehicle. At least my tundra did. So every time I swapped wheels I had to reprogram the truck for the different sensors. I have an autel tool that does it, it ran about $300. You can buy generic sensors and clone IDs as well.
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Feb 24, 2019 13:36
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IOwnCalculus posted:Counterpoint: CAGS saves you the gas guzzler tax (or at least used to). Worth it IMO since it's so easy to defeat. Huh, yeah hadn't thought about that. Guess that helps understand a little how it was implemented and forced so maybe I'll be less grumpy it existed.
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Feb 24, 2019 14:34
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PabloBOOM posted:Huh, yeah hadn't thought about that. Guess that helps understand a little how it was implemented and forced so maybe I'll be less grumpy it existed. It's almost as if GM knows it sucks and made it easy to work around.
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Feb 24, 2019 15:29
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PabloBOOM posted:Huh, yeah hadn't thought about that. Guess that helps understand a little how it was implemented and forced so maybe I'll be less grumpy it existed. I defeated CAGS in my first Z28 with a .30˘ resistor and a roll of electrical tape. I went back later and did the proper weatherpack harness but ya, it’s DESIGNED to be defeat-able. It’s still really hard to explain to someone who isn’t both mechanically savvy, and also understanding of how idiotic fuel economy regulations are in the US.
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Feb 24, 2019 15:35
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melon cat posted:2018 Prius V. Out of curiosity what tires are you swapping on to the car in late Feb?
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Feb 24, 2019 15:42
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MrYenko posted:I defeated CAGS in my first Z28 with a .30˘ resistor and a roll of electrical tape. I ordered the bypass kit for my C5 as soon as I walked in the door from driving it home. I have NO idea how the original owner I bought it from drove it like that for 15 years. Probably something to do with him being 70.
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Feb 24, 2019 16:11
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Shooting Blanks posted:2001 Honda Accord w/ 200k, 2.3L 4 cyl Update I don't *think* it's a HG. I won't know for sure until I drive the car til it's hot and check for white smoke, but I checked both the oil (looked like oil) and coolant (clear and green) today and both looked completely fine, i.e. unmixed. Assuming it's not a HG (fingers crossed), best guess is either a neighbor spilled something or I drove through a muddy puddle on the way home on a previous trip (it had been raining a lot) and got enough on my oil pan for it to come back with me. I can't think of anything else, unless somebody else has an idea. It doesn't look like brake fluid or PS fluid, plus my brakes have felt fine (albeit need new pads), and I haven't had any PS whine so I'm at a loss as to what else is could be. ATF I guess, but I'm not even sure what that looks like or how to check it. Edit: I also moved the car to see if the spot had spread/grown at all since I first saw it when I returned home yesterday and it didn't see like it had. Which again makes me think that I ran through a muddy puddle but then when I was driving any liquid remaining on my oil pan dripped off while I was picking up food. Shooting Blanks fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Feb 24, 2019 |
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Feb 24, 2019 20:00
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It wasn't and still isn't clear how you jumped right to "head gasket failure."
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Feb 24, 2019 20:23
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Geoj posted:I'm going to go out on a limb and say your problem is "garbage design."
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Feb 24, 2019 20:41
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Motronic posted:It wasn't and still isn't clear how you jumped right to "head gasket failure." I'm the only person who parks in that spot, there was a brownish milky sludge directly underneath where my oilpan sits, and there's nothing above the parking spot that could have dropped it there. So either a stray animal took a very odd looking poo poo there, or it dripped from my oil pan. I don't know what a coolant/oil mixture looks like - especially in poor lighting, the only descriptions are milky and sludge like. I was going off what I could find online and was able to see at the time. Given it's an 18 year old vehicle with 200k miles, even driven gingerly a head gasket failure isn't out of the question and I couldn't think of anything else it could be from my vehicle. Edit: I'm also a bit of a pessimist when it comes to vehicles, had some rotten luck over the last couple years.
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Feb 24, 2019 23:20
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Shooting Blanks posted:Edit: I'm also a bit of a pessimist when it comes to vehicles Obviously. Any manner of other non-head gasket leaks are much more realistic here.
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Feb 25, 2019 00:23
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Shooting Blanks posted:I'm the only person who parks in that spot, there was a brownish milky sludge directly underneath where my oilpan sits, and there's nothing above the parking spot that could have dropped it there. So either a stray animal took a very odd looking poo poo there, or it dripped from my oil pan. I don't know what a coolant/oil mixture looks like - especially in poor lighting, the only descriptions are milky and sludge like. I was going off what I could find online and was able to see at the time. Condensation from your ac mixed with oil from a leak?
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Feb 25, 2019 02:07
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2010 Prius. I had a shop change my ATF at 100k miles. It's now 150k. Do it again? I don't believe in this lifetime ATF nonsense. Am I just an idiot? Should I leave well enough alone?
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Feb 25, 2019 02:23
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I would change it. I changed it twice in my prius C, noticed a subtle difference in sound when I did, and what came out was definitely more brown than red. A regular prius has more cooling for the fluid than the C so it may not be as pronounced, but still worth changing. Fluid additive packages do get depleted over time. Make sure the shop uses toyota ATF WS.
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Feb 25, 2019 02:34
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Shooting Blanks posted:2001 Honda Accord w/ 200k, 2.3L 4 cyl If you happen to eventually determine that you have engine oil running down the rear of the block on the passenger side, then the O-ring on the Idle Air Control Valve has given up the ghost. The IACV is loads of fun to reach, as it sits less than an inch from the firewall and truly tiny hands are needed to get at it from above, and the Special Extra Joint between your wrist & elbow if you make the attempt from below. If it is leaking, you have time to deal with it. At least until you throw a VTEC code.
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Feb 25, 2019 02:53
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rdb posted:I would change it. Same. I changed it at 30k on my Prius C, and it was surprisingly not ATF colored anymore. Every car I have I change the transmission oil every 30k, regardless of trans type. No flush. Only drain and fill.
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Feb 25, 2019 03:13
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I have a winch question. The winch in question is a Warn RT25, specifically a WARN 73900 Winch Motor. I can hear the solenoids clicking but there's no movement from the motor. According to some troubleshooting guide on the internet it could be brushes or condensation.clemson4wheel posted:3. When the remote control switch is activated there is only a “clicking sound”, and the winch does not operate in either mode. I'm pretty sure that if the engine is idling the battery is charged. The ground wire is connected and does not appear corroded. However, there has been freezing rain lately. Are winches like high tension leads where atmospheric moisture will cause problems? I do not ford rivers and can not see how it would have gotten flooded.
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Feb 25, 2019 04:42
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kid sinister posted:My vote is a bad cable or loose connection somewhere. I hope it's something simple. And that they aren't asses about it at the shop. This is our only car, I work five days a week, AND we're leaving on vacation in 8 days.
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Feb 25, 2019 05:48
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RabbitMage posted:Is there any reason or way a starter or alternator that was going bad would be fine with an old battery, but not a new one? Zero problems before rolling it in, and it's dead in their parking lot? I'd be in the manager's office and not budge until it's fixed. That's their fault until proven otherwise. Most likely them checking it over will reveal whatever the issue is; if it's not a quick fix, and they claim it's an existing problem, post their explanation here if you want to bullshit-check it. It's not IMpossible that something happened to finally fail the exact day they had it, but if it happened in their care it's pretty reasonable that they prove that.
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Feb 25, 2019 06:37
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My own stupid question. 2006 Saturn Ion, 2.2 L61, but this should apply to any L61 (and other first gen Ecotecs). It looks like my oil pressure sender is leaking pretty badly. From a cursory glance, it appears replacement involves removing the starter, and getting an open ended wrench on the sensor. Is it really that simple? I've done a starter on the 2.4 on a friend's car (diff part number, but same location), and aside from being cramped (hers was an HHR, so working space was significantly less), it was the easiest FWD starter I've done. Shooting Blanks posted:Given it's an 18 year old vehicle with 200k miles, even driven gingerly a head gasket failure isn't out of the question and I couldn't think of anything else it could be from my vehicle. So long as it hasn't been run gauge-pegged hot, and you've done normal maintenance, the head gasket should last the life of the engine on your particular car. The F23A1 is a pretty tough bastard; they're the cockroaches of the Honda world. They're gutless, but overbuilt. Head gaskets also tend to fail internally first. You have to really gently caress it up for it to leak externally. PainterofCrap posted:If you happen to eventually determine that you have engine oil running down the rear of the block on the passenger side, then the O-ring on the Idle Air Control Valve has given up the ghost. The IACV is loads of fun to reach, as it sits less than an inch from the firewall and truly tiny hands are needed to get at it from above, and the Special Extra Joint between your wrist & elbow if you make the attempt from below. That fucker was the bane of my existence on my 01 Accord. Mine was a manual, and it'd occasionally just die (or drop to ~barely running RPM~) when I'd clutch in. Loads of fun when I'd clutch in to downshift while going through a cloverleaf and the power steering disappeared.  Yeah, it was a pain in the dick to get to, so I just lived with it and prepared for it to stall anytime I put the clutch in. It'd pull its "what's an idle?" truck a couple of times a month. Crotch Fruit posted:I haven't yet looked, but when I searched for new calipers on rock auto I saw two piston calipers for my car. I like the idea of a $10 tool better than a $50 harbor freight tool, but I think I have two piston calipers which you said that tool would work well on. It should still work, so long as the plate covers both pistons. If it doesn't, toss the backing plate from one of your old brake pads between the plate and pistons. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Feb 25, 2019 |
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Feb 25, 2019 06:48
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Is there an easy way to remove screen printed text from buttons, particularly OEM (Ford) if it matters? I want to repurpose a button like this, and while it’s not the end of the world, no text would match better than text.
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Feb 25, 2019 20:03
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If they're like my Honda's steering wheel buttons, the print is reverse - the black is printed on a white plastic, so that the text can glow at night. So now some of my steering wheel controls are white splotches. My Jeep, on non-backlit buttons, has white print on a black button at least.
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Feb 25, 2019 20:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:If they're like my Honda's steering wheel buttons, the print is reverse - the black is printed on a white plastic, so that the text can glow at night. So now some of my steering wheel controls are white splotches.
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Feb 25, 2019 20:18
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Krakkles posted:I’m not sure, as they’re not actually in my possession yet. But that does actually point out the obvious potential answer - spray paint. Maybe there’s something rubbery I can spray on it. Rubberized spray paint might work? Comedy option: flex seal
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Feb 25, 2019 20:21
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