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Worked on the KTM 640 supermoto today, dry sump oil change. The ktm has a bunch of magnetic screws and reusable filter screens (and even combinations) if you clean those, use some compressed air instead of rags and solvents, it works much much better (I did not think of using compressed air before and learned this fairly basic technique as if it's some secret oldtimer trick)
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Feb 19, 2019 16:25
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 16:25 |
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yeah the 1290 SAR uses those magnetic screens for its two drain plugs and I've always used an air compressor on them after looking at the "oil change kit" for like $110 lol
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Feb 19, 2019 17:35
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installed a powerparts supersprox 42T sprocket because my original one looked like this after 9k miles of power wheelies in sport mode: 
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Feb 21, 2019 20:16
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Nice dog.
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Feb 21, 2019 21:09
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he matches  
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Feb 21, 2019 21:23
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Why is your dog stoned??
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Feb 21, 2019 21:25
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weed is now legal
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Feb 22, 2019 02:48
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i claned my bike and chain because its 50 degrees out in winter today 
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Feb 22, 2019 03:42
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Taking the front fairing off to chase down vibrations and I totally snapped one of the plastic tabs off. 5 minutes plastic welding with a soldering iron and infilling with cable tie plastic and it should be good to go. Ugly, but better than glue or epoxy. 
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Feb 22, 2019 03:45
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You all remember six months ago when i did this to my bike? I took it to a mechanic yesterday and today I got the repair estimate. Bike gonna need new forks, new front wheel and new tires. Also its gonna cost $Texas 
ElMaligno fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Feb 23, 2019 |
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Feb 23, 2019 00:05
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ElMaligno posted:I took it to a mechanic yesterday and today I got the repair estimate. Bike gonna need new forks, new front wheel and new tires. Also its gonna cost $Texas Why forks?
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Feb 23, 2019 03:43
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Yeah, are the forks really that hosed? Also, just put up a WTB on ADVRider, there’s more GS parts for sale than you can shake two sticks at. Do the work yourself and save a bundle. Edit: depending on what you mean by $texas anyway. Don’t pay more to have it fixed than the bike is worth.
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Feb 23, 2019 04:15
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Forks look bent in the pic.
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Feb 23, 2019 05:15
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I was looking at them and couldn't see anything wrong, but once Slavvy pointed that out I swear they're bent around an inch up on the fork tubes (is that the correct term?)
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Feb 23, 2019 08:04
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Yeah, are the forks really that hosed? Also, just put up a WTB on ADVRider, there’s more GS parts for sale than you can shake two sticks at. Do the work yourself and save a bundle. Yeah, definitely do not let the shop source your new parts and don't buy brand new. Waste of money. e/ it just occurred to me but was the shop suggesting to replace the entire front end? You ought to be able to salvage the brake discs from this wheel if they're not bent, which would save you a packet. I wouldn't expect a used set of forks + rim + tyre to come to more than £500, if that. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Feb 23, 2019 |
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Feb 23, 2019 09:01
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If that's an F800GS it will may be cheaper to go with a spoked front wheel - the cast wheels are hard to find used
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Feb 23, 2019 22:01
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I tried looking the parts for months and i never had any luck. And weirdly enough while it was $Texas i was actually expecting $Alaska.
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Feb 24, 2019 02:19
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MomJeans420 posted:I was looking at them and couldn't see anything wrong, but once Slavvy pointed that out I swear they're bent around an inch up on the fork tubes (is that the correct term?) I think the technical term for the fork tubes is "stanchions". The outer accordion-style covering you see on them sometimes is called a gaiter.
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Feb 24, 2019 15:09
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Well gently caress me, I always thought the stanchion was the solid outer bit the oil sits in and the chrome tube was the slider (y'know, on account of how it's the part that slides) but nope! Completely the other way around now that I look it up.
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Feb 24, 2019 17:26
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Replaced the rear tire. And of course pinched the tube  https://i.imgur.com/SJrsMgJ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/hnpB8nx.jpg
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Feb 25, 2019 03:53
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yeah im not looking forward to handling tubes when the KTM tires are due.
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Feb 28, 2019 03:05
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Second go-round was a success, partially inflated the tube and was real carefull with the non-hooky ends of the iron to get it back on. Bead looks a little rough... but it's a dirtbike, I won't be riding it on the highway. https://i.imgur.com/x8TmUUV.jpg Shook it down in the backyard, makes for a decent enduro skills course, trees, mud, a decent couple hill climbs, logs, even a baby water crossing. Turns out a sticky tire with square lugs us magic compared to a hard tire with semi-circular lugs. https://i.imgur.com/iRX4y7M.jpg Race weekend is 1 1/2 weeks away.
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Feb 28, 2019 06:29
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finished ripping out the like 2lbs of rubber hosing for the emissions Bull poo poo on my 1290 SAR in my dad's driveway
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Mar 2, 2019 19:26
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of course you're only going to trailer this motorcycle to a track, right? you wouldn't think of putting such an out-of-compliance vehicle on the road
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Mar 2, 2019 20:41
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how the hell am I going to make it to a starbucks without a road
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Mar 3, 2019 00:07
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Try and figure out why the gently caress it isn't getting spark... Its a Sym Symba (honda cub clone) that over time has developed a severe hesitation to rev when snapping open the throttle... A good carburetor clean improved things a bit but did not solve the problem... I took it as an excuse to remove some emissions stuff recommended on the Sym forums (a lot of over-complicated stuff for California compliance) and maybe put on a pod filter and rejet the carburetor (a poster on their forums had solid success with a specific combination of idle/main sizes for a K&N pod filter that I was going to use as a starting point). But now after fiddling around with the carburetor, i must have tugged on the wrong wire, since now I'm not getting any spark (I've removed the spark plug but have it plugged into the ignition coil...when I crank the motor, I don't see it sparking). I've done the usual steps of looking at bad connections, that sort of thing... the wires leading to the ignition coil have some really shoddy style of clamp that I'm tempted to just solder shut to test and see if that fixes it... I guess the next step after that is trying to diagnose the coil itself, maybe its gone bad (I had assumed the hesitation to rev was a fuel/air problem... could it have been the coil dying and now its just dead?)
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Mar 3, 2019 05:52
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It almost certainly was an air/fuel problem that you've likely now exacerbated by fooling around at random*, but it probably isn't related to you having no spark. That bike has an extremely simple ignition system, if you have a multimeter you can test the source coil output pretty easily. If you want to test your ignition coil, try hooking everything up like you're testing for spark except leave the trigger wire unplugged, crank the bike over and short the trigger to earth momentarily. If everything's working you should get a spark and you can point the finger at the crank pick-up. *: Seriously it's not like when a plane engine catches on fire the mechanics randomly gently caress with the suspension in the hopes random chance fixes the issue. What is it about bikes, and carbs particularly, that makes people think totally random directionless changes will somehow, against all odds, fix the problem. It's like the old thing about enough monkeys randomly typing on enough typewriters eventually producing a Shakespeare play, but applied to vehicle repair Slavvy fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Mar 3, 2019 |
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Mar 3, 2019 10:16
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Slavvy posted:It almost certainly was an air/fuel problem that you've likely now exacerbated by fooling around at random*, but it probably isn't related to you having no spark. That bike has an extremely simple ignition system, if you have a multimeter you can test the source coil output pretty easily. Is it really at random if its based on advice from other owners of the bike? As I said, I tried getting the carburetor as clean as I could in the stock configuration, and I still noticed the problem... For all I know, it always behaved like that and I'm just now noticing as I get comfortable with the bike (its really only noticeable during cold weather or really aggressive snaps, I bought it last summer) The main two things I did were eliminate a line coming from the top of the gas tank to a carbon canister. The primary concern there is if you overfill your tank at a gas station, fuel can easily flow into the canister and flood it, the bike won't start until the canister dries out. This had happened to multiple people, but never me personally. The other was a system on the right side of the bike that injected air into the exhaust when the bike is cold, or something like that. Other owners said it doesn't make a ton of difference during normal operation, but it complicates the system quite a bit and made tracing things that were important harder, so I followed a guide and capped that off. I've also heard that hesitation might be addressed with going from a size 40 idle jet to a size 42, while keeping the stock air cleaner. This is an option, I still have the stock cleaner. One reason to get rid of the stock one is its particularly irritating to work with... its huge, and connects to these snorkels that connect to the frame of the bike. Wrestling with it could very well have been when I tugged on some wire that I shouldn't have, removing it to work on the carburetor is pretty irritating. Other honda cubs get by with much smaller filters, so I wanted to give it a shot. The scooter is a silly project bike to me, currently meant for city errands (I have a different motorcycle for longer trips). People don't dick around with airplane engines because when they fail people die. If this bike fails, I leave it by the side of the road and call a cab. When you say leave the trigger wire unplugged, do you mean don't plug in the spark plug, or disconnect it from the ignition coil itself (I'm assuming the trigger wire is the wire that runs from the coil to the spark-plug)?
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Mar 3, 2019 17:20
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Bike's not that old, right? I'd be inclined to say it's a loose connection somewhere rather than a component blown out.
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Mar 3, 2019 18:26
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Running individual ignition coils without a solid ground connection can easily kill the ignition coil. If you want to check them for spark, either use a see through extension that's rated for individual ignition coils, or build a little setup with a very solid ground. The old "hold the coil and put the electrode on the block while it runs" is an easy way to pay for a new one. Not saying you did that, but you mentioned checking for spark and that's a common transition mistake from distributor/single coil ignition to individual coils.
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Mar 3, 2019 18:38
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Bike's not that old, right? I'd be inclined to say it's a loose connection somewhere rather than a component blown out. Not old at all, 2010 I think? I bought it used. I went around to all the molex connectors and sprayed contact cleaner in them, and made sure they were seated properly... The wires running to the ignition coil use blade connectors and I noticed I could feel them jiggle a bit. I had actually noticed the bike didn't spark earlier and jiggling these wires happened to fix it that time, but no luck this time... Just to eliminate the variable I put a dab of solder on the connectors so that they were firmly connected, still no luck. I think the next step is to bust out the multi-meter, the manual lists all kinds of expected resistances to diagnose this stuff. Combat Theory posted:Running individual ignition coils without a solid ground connection can easily kill the ignition coil. oooo, that could have happened. I put the spark plug on a rubber mallet to try and get some distance between it and the bike, but maybe some spark still jumped over to the case?
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Mar 3, 2019 18:46
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It's not the jumping spark that fucks up the coil, it's the lack of spark. The coil isn't just a simple transformer, it's operating by storing energy in the EM-field of the coil (simplified) during charging. The coil is charged a few micro seconds before every ignition and then gets open circuited by the ignition control. Because the energy in the EM-field now wants out it spikes the voltage in the coil much more than the transformer ratio suggests. If a spark plug with ground is present, the discharge over the spark gap uses up this energy and 720 degrees later it all starts again. Problem is if no ground is present, the energy can not be discharged via the spark gap and the voltage continues to rise until something else gives, usually withing the coil assembly, resulting in a permanent short, the coil is now bricked. To prevent this, keep a super solid ground on everything that should be grounded, so spark plug negative, coil chassis if it has a ground etc. You can do that by getting a fitting nut for your spark plug and soldering on a nice gauge wire or copper mesh (like for welding grounds) that you screw connect (not clamping, not holding onto, but screwing) directly to a cleaned metal part of the engine. Same for coil grounds. Don't touch the setup while it runs obviously. Alternatively, get one of the aforementioned spark plug see through extensions but always keep everything grounded that appears to be grounded when installed.
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Mar 3, 2019 19:42
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Welp, that's almost certainly what I did. I'm gonna mess around with the multimeter more tonight, I wasn't getting readings that made a lot of sense earlier, but in the scenario you're describing: would only the ignition coil be bricked? Its a 60 dollar part so its not the end of the world, hope its not something more costly though (Sym Symba parts are a nightmare to find, sometimes plain ol honda cub parts fit but not always)
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Mar 4, 2019 00:08
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It would most certainly just be the coil. This stuff is a more expensive mistake to do on large multi cylinder engines. There's old mechanics tales about the potential of frying the output stages in the ECU or ignition driver but I have never seen a case of that happening. E: if you have a service manual, check the resistance values that should be present on the coil with the multimeter. With HV gear a high resistance doesn't mean there's no HV short but if you do read abnormal resistances you'll know for sure the coil is faulty. If you wanna go super backyard engineer, you can test the coil with a 12v battery, a spark plug and some wire. Just make sure to charge the coil very shortly (I suppose it's a 2 terminal connector passive coil) Double E: I made the mistake of not Googling first what you were actually working on.  This is an old style of ignition coil that should stand up to some fair abuse. Check the resistance values if you have them handy and see from there, but the more old school posters here will definetly be of a better help than me. Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Mar 4, 2019 |
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Mar 4, 2019 00:13
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Yeah that's why I told him to test the source coil output. That bike has a cdi and coil that run on AC voltage from a separate stator coil called the source coil, the cdi is triggered by an extremely simple, one wire inductive pickup on the stator that just earths the coil when the lump on the stator swings past. You can simulate this by disconnecting the pickup and tapping the wire against earth while cranking. The ignition coil and cdi can't tell the difference. And just to be clear: test for spark by putting a spark plug in the lead and clamping the spark plug against the engine or other good earth. Again, the coil can't tell the spark plug isn't inside the motor.
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Mar 4, 2019 00:41
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Those scooter style CDI-magneto systems are indeed pretty robust, I don't think you're that likely to blow them out even by cranking it with no ground on the plug. Although try not to do that anyway. I noticed there are fairly good looking manuals available for that bike online. The troubleshooting section is a bit thin, but the photos and diagrams are good. Some things I'd check are at the CDI: With a multimeter on A/C volts, check how much voltage is between the black/red wire and ground (one meter probe to the wire, other probe to a good ground on the frame/engine [something bare metal without paint on it]), it should be a decent amount, like 60+ volts at cranking speed. That's the source coil for the ignition. Same test with the blue/yellow wire, but it'll be much less voltage, like 1-3V. That's the trigger coil. And same test at the ignition coil itself on the black/yellow wire. It should be high like the source coil.
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Mar 4, 2019 20:28
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I'll give that a try, I've got like 4 onsite interviews coming up so it'll likely be late next week but I appreciate the help and advise from everyone.
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Mar 5, 2019 02:35
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put some stickers on it 
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Mar 5, 2019 03:37
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Put it in its natural habitat  errrr  That's more like it. Under 15 mins to strip the skidplate, crashbars, tanks, and upper bodywork off, the modifications made to make body removal quicker are nice. ~67k mi, 9500mi service.
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Mar 5, 2019 05:40
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A few days ago I ran it into a tree, today I fixed it. Plus I installed some other goodies that I bought for free shipping. Adult Lego is fun. Note the terrible stock bar attachment for the Polisport handguards. Old and busted  New hotness  
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Mar 6, 2019 04:57
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