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30k miles is the typical change interval for nickel spark plugs.
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Feb 27, 2019 20:21
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I've got a 2018 Subaru Crosstrek with about 8800 miles on it. I've now had two front passenger side windows on me explode, the first on 12/31 and the second this morning. Both times it happened after I opened and closed (with what I'd consider normal force) my rear driver side door in about 15°F weather. I've had the car for about 8 months. Is this a case of bad luck with Windows and should just get insurance/see if Safelite will cover it via warranty to replace this recent break or should I be taking it into the dealer/shop and claiming manufacturer defect in the car and get it inspected? Anything I could look for to give an idea of what's going on? Master_Odin fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Feb 27, 2019 |
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Feb 27, 2019 20:34
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wth, those temps are nothing.
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Feb 27, 2019 20:57
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C-Bangin' it 
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Master_Odin posted:I've got a 2018 Subaru Crosstrek with about 8800 miles on it. I've now had two front passenger side windows on me explode, the first on 12/31 and the second this morning. Both times it happened after I opened and closed (with what I'd consider normal force) my rear driver side door in about 15°F weather. I've had the car for about 8 months. I think you should be calling Subaru of America and asking them how they intend to deal with this issue. Those are not exceptional temperatures and even if you were absolutely slamming the doors as hard as you could this still shouldn't happen.
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Feb 27, 2019 21:10
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So the original exploded, then safelite did the repair for the 2nd?
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Feb 27, 2019 21:34
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Colostomy Bag posted:So the original exploded, then safelite did the repair for the 2nd?
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Feb 27, 2019 21:49
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Do any of you guys use Bluetooth obd2 readers or whatever and if so what's the recommended one
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Feb 27, 2019 21:50
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Big Bowie Bonanza posted:Do any of you guys use Bluetooth obd2 readers or whatever and if so what's the recommended one This is the one I use and it's good enough.
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Feb 27, 2019 22:52
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So I sold a car a couple years back, it was a barely running mazda6. Guy came to my house and paid me a grand. I signed over the title to him and never thought of it again. Today I get a call from some guy in NC(I'm in FL) saying that he bought the car from the guy I sold it to and the dude never moved the title to his name in FL. He states that NC requires that a title change be notarized and wants me to send his notary a copy of my driver license, new owner has the copy of the title with my signature on it. This sounds like a scam to me and didn't send the guy anything. The guy says NC won't register the car for him and he has a car he can't drive now. I don't want to leave the guy in a pickle but same time it sounds shady as gently caress. Any guidance would be cool, cause I don't really know what to do.
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Feb 27, 2019 22:55
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My 280EZ had some obvious vibration coming from the flywheel/transmission once I got it running (noticeable at ~2500 RPM, real bad by 5000, I was basically shifting before 3k whenever I drove it), so I pulled the motor today to investigate. Checked flywheel run out with a dial gauge (it was a bit tricky because the motor has a coggy feel to it when rotated by hand due to the permanent magnets) and got about 0.005" variation which strikes me as not the source of the problem. Here's what the (new a couple weeks ago) pressure plate looks like with about 100 miles on it:   That one wear spot looks like bad news to me, but I'm not sure about the cause. Here's the flywheel:   Pulling this motor alone took me all of 45 minutes, EV drivetrain makes some things so much easier!  I took the flywheel and pressure plate over to the local shop that previously balanced the flywheel alone, so they are going to spin it up and re-balance the assembly this week. But those wear spots on the mating surfaces concern me. Anything I'm missing here?
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Feb 27, 2019 23:49
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two_beer_bishes posted:Thanks for the input! An alignment rack would show frame damage, right? It's at a dealer and they're motivated to sell it since it's been on their lot for a while and I'm in an area of the country that typically only buys American. So if they can show me the alignment is good and if they replace the two tires, I shouldn't have anything to worry about other than maybe worn out suspension? An alignment rack would show if any frame/suspension damage is affecting the alignment. A skilled set of eyes is what you need. Also the tundra is american. Its built in texas. I would be worried about leaking cam tower gaskets if its a v8. That was a $3300 job on mine that thankfully got covered under extended warranty. I have a set of tundra trd wheels, all terrain tires and tpms sensors for sale cheap if your near louisville ky.
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Feb 28, 2019 00:16
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Fender Anarchist posted:This is the one I use and it's good enough.
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Feb 28, 2019 01:28
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Wipers in my van are acting fuckity. If I click it to any of the intermittent settings, sometimes it works, sometimes it just operates continuously + the wipers freeze in place when shut off instead of going back to the bottom position. I assume this is just the wiper relay in the early stages of making GBS threads out, but rockauto doesn't actually list one that I can find, just the multifunction switch on the steering column. Is it integral or something?
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Feb 28, 2019 01:31
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Where can I find a rear wiper for my 13 Outback?
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Feb 28, 2019 02:09
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TooLShack posted:So I sold a car a couple years back, it was a barely running mazda6. Guy came to my house and paid me a grand. I signed over the title to him and never thought of it again. Today I get a call from some guy in NC(I'm in FL) saying that he bought the car from the guy I sold it to and the dude never moved the title to his name in FL. He states that NC requires that a title change be notarized and wants me to send his notary a copy of my driver license, new owner has the copy of the title with my signature on it. This sounds like a scam to me and didn't send the guy anything. The guy says NC won't register the car for him and he has a car he can't drive now. I don't want to leave the guy in a pickle but same time it sounds shady as gently caress. How did he get your info?
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Feb 28, 2019 03:15
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TooLShack posted:So I sold a car a couple years back, it was a barely running mazda6. Guy came to my house and paid me a grand. I signed over the title to him and never thought of it again. Today I get a call from some guy in NC(I'm in FL) saying that he bought the car from the guy I sold it to and the dude never moved the title to his name in FL. He states that NC requires that a title change be notarized and wants me to send his notary a copy of my driver license, new owner has the copy of the title with my signature on it. This sounds like a scam to me and didn't send the guy anything. The guy says NC won't register the car for him and he has a car he can't drive now. I don't want to leave the guy in a pickle but same time it sounds shady as gently caress. You could try calling someone at the NC DMV to see if the story checks out for requirements at least. Maybe come up with some less sketchy solution or let you know if it's super bogus.
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Feb 28, 2019 03:38
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Colostomy Bag posted:How did he get your info? Well, my full name is on the title, so maybe found my cell number from a little googling. At this point, I didn't sell the car to him, so I feel like I don't owe him poo poo and I feel like sending a copy of my license to some random person that reaches out to me is just a mistake. It's a Mazda6 Sportswagon, let it die man.
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Feb 28, 2019 03:44
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TooLShack posted:Well, my full name is on the title, so maybe found my cell number from a little googling. At this point, I didn't sell the car to him, so I feel like I don't owe him poo poo and I feel like sending a copy of my license to some random person that reaches out to me is just a mistake. It's a Mazda6 Sportswagon, let it die man. Please tell me you did a release of liability when you sold the car.
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Feb 28, 2019 03:48
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Leal posted:Please tell me you did a release of liability when you sold the car. I did not, but facebook marketplace history is showing all the info I need to fill the following form out. I'll be filling one of these(https://www.flhsmv.gov/dmv/forms/BTR/82050.pdf) and take it to the DMV and hope that I can get it cleared up.
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Feb 28, 2019 04:06
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TooLShack posted:So I sold a car a couple years back, it was a barely running mazda6. Guy came to my house and paid me a grand. I signed over the title to him and never thought of it again. Today I get a call from some guy in NC(I'm in FL) saying that he bought the car from the guy I sold it to and the dude never moved the title to his name in FL. He states that NC requires that a title change be notarized and wants me to send his notary a copy of my driver license, new owner has the copy of the title with my signature on it. This sounds like a scam to me and didn't send the guy anything. The guy says NC won't register the car for him and he has a car he can't drive now. I don't want to leave the guy in a pickle but same time it sounds shady as gently caress. Don't send a copy of your DL. If you have to, take their form to a local notary to complete. It would be illegal for a notary to stamp a document saying thoug signed it without you present or without personally witnessing the signature anyway.
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Feb 28, 2019 04:16
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rdb posted:An alignment rack would show if any frame/suspension damage is affecting the alignment. A skilled set of eyes is what you need. I'm just outside of Detroit where logic like that doesn't fly. Thanks for the heads up about the cam towers leak, I hadn't read anything about the yet! How much are you selling the wheels and tires for? I don't drive down often but I might be up for a road trip pretty soon
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Feb 28, 2019 20:37
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Car-adjacent electrical question: If I take a 120 constant/240 peak watt inverter and flog it at a constant ~170 watts, what might I expect? Basically, I misremembered the wattage my drone charger consumes when I bought this thing, but it was also $10 so if it lasts the duration of my upcoming road trip at that service level I'll be happy.
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Mar 1, 2019 03:36
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I doubt batteries for a $10 drone are going to draw much more than 1w each while charging. If they're anything more than common lithium ion/polymer cells I'd be shocked.
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Mar 1, 2019 03:57
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The inverter was $10. The drone was considerably more. Its charger draws 168 watts according to my math, I dunno if that's peak or what. I'd probably run the charger for like 15-20 minutes at a time. I'm driving through some scenic areas I haven't taken it before so if I see something cool I'm gonna take photos, then top up the battery on the road afterwards. Javid fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Mar 1, 2019 |
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Mar 1, 2019 04:05
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I'd look into a 12vdc powered charger, as you're losing some watts needlessly converting DC to AC and then back again - especially with a discount inverter.
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Mar 1, 2019 04:12
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I could look it up, but the car charger for this thing would cost way more than a beefier inverter. The one in my car is 200 watt iirc and that runs the charger fine, but it's hardwired. I also have an utterly gigantic 1500 watt inverter that works, but gently caress dealing with wiring that thing up + having it on the passenger seat for a two week roadtrip. e: basically what I'm asking is will this fry the charger (bad) or the inverter (acceptable)
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Mar 1, 2019 04:19
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Get this: https://smile.amazon.com/Tenergy-Ba...ay&sr=8-1-fkmr0 And this: https://smile.amazon.com/12V-24V-Ch...ps%2C126&sr=8-3 168 watts at 12v is about 14 amps. Most accessory ports on cars are fused at 10 amps, so you'd likely blow a fuse. You can set the charger linked above to charge at less than 10 amps. That's better for your batteries, and you won't blow a fuse.
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Mar 1, 2019 04:51
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A) proprietary batteries B) the circuit is fused at 15a on this This isn't an XY problem.
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Mar 1, 2019 05:01
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You got a $10 inverter to power an expensive drone battery charger. I'm not so sure your judgment can be trusted.
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Mar 1, 2019 06:22
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Javid posted:Car-adjacent electrical question: If I take a 120 constant/240 peak watt inverter and flog it at a constant ~170 watts, what might I expect? How much do you like smoke (and possibly blown fuses, perhaps a nice fire)? Swing by Harbor Freight and get one of their more substantial inverters.
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Mar 1, 2019 06:41
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Javid posted:Car-adjacent electrical question: If I take a 120 constant/240 peak watt inverter and flog it at a constant ~170 watts, what might I expect? There's an electronics thread over in DIY that might be a better answer to your question.
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Mar 1, 2019 07:11
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Javid posted:I could look it up, but the car charger for this thing would cost way more than a beefier inverter.
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Mar 1, 2019 07:38
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Wife just took in the van to the dealership for an oil change, because I didn't have the time to do it myself and we had a coupon. While there, the techs said we needed new front brake pads and rotors on my 06 Honda Odyssey. I feel like I just replaced the pads, but from what I've heard the brakes are undersized on this vehicle and they wear much faster than one would expect. Oh well. Rather than spend $300 to have a shop use the cheapest possible parts, I'd rather do it myself and use something higher quality. I've done brake pads several times so I'm not worried about doing the rotors too. It's our most driven vehicle, and a child-hauler. I'd like something good. What's the right brand/line I should be looking at? Rock Auto has this kit which seems nice for $190 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3802602&cc=1432209&jsn=454 I live in the desert, no snow or rust, and hot environments. Should I also replace the rear brake pads/rotors at the same time?
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Mar 1, 2019 19:04
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canyoneer posted:Should I also replace the rear brake pads/rotors at the same time? Only if they need it, and they probably don't or they would have mentioned it.
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Mar 1, 2019 19:31
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canyoneer posted:Wife just took in the van to the dealership for an oil change, because I didn't have the time to do it myself and we had a coupon. While there, the techs said quote:Rather than spend $300 to have a shop use the cheapest possible parts, I'd rather do it myself and use something higher quality. I've done brake pads several times so I'm not worried about doing the rotors too. quote:Should I also replace the rear brake pads/rotors at the same time?
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Mar 1, 2019 19:35
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wolrah posted:Depends on how bad they are. Rear brakes don't wear at the same rate as front brakes. I agree that if the shop mentioned only front brakes then the rears probably don't need to be done. Hondas are kinda weird here - on at least a few vehicles they've sized the rear pads down so far that they wear at similar rates, if not faster than, the fronts. But yes, if the shop didn't say anything then there's probably no concern.
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Mar 1, 2019 19:50
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canyoneer posted:
Short answer on brakes: When they start to grind or the little light goes on listen to the corner and replace pads and rotors on the respective front/back half of the vehicle.
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Mar 1, 2019 20:19
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Thanks gang. Front rotors and pads it is. I had heard about the drilled rotors being suboptimal, but didn't know whether that was internet hyperbole. Good to have that confirmed. Not taking the van to the racetrack and not planning on getting into a police chase
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Mar 1, 2019 20:25
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And just to add, you have to be a little careful when ordering brakes from Rock Auto. They list specifications and you really have to pay attention with the sizes they present you with. Amazing what a 320mm rotor for an ammo plated limo versus a 310mm rotor will do when mounting brakes. That order hosed me for few days. 
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Mar 1, 2019 20:27
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| # ? May 29, 2024 14:52 |
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Javid posted:Car-adjacent electrical question: If I take a 120 constant/240 peak watt inverter and flog it at a constant ~170 watts, what might I expect? 
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Mar 1, 2019 20:29
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