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holocaust bloopers posted:I picked up an old Canon Elan 7 from KEH. Are these cameras still good for repairs/maintenance for the next few years? Anything old and electronic is always a gamble.
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Feb 28, 2019 02:35
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Sauer posted:Smaller scale machines already exist. Contract coating with high tech modern mid scale machinery is a major part of Harman's business. Their equipment is substantially more flexible and can coat just about any liquid you like to any flexible medium you like; not just churn out hundreds of miles of film a week. When not coating Ilford films and paper they're coating all sorts of stuff for other customers. There are plenty of options like this around: https://nsmz.com/r2r/explorer-750/ They cost around $0.5 - 1M USD, and you would need a web cutting/packaging line to finish it off. You could go simpler than that particular model as you'd just be using a slot-die process I guess. FWIW I work in the security printing industry
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Feb 28, 2019 23:57
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Blackhawk posted:Surely Kodak wouldn't have recently re-introduced two previously discontinued film stocks if they were going to make a loss by doing so? Ah yes, Kodak the company known for it's good business choices.
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Mar 1, 2019 06:50
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I never did end up trying new Ektachrome. I couldn't my hands on any. As a business professional, I think that's either good or bad, or possibly somewhere in between.
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Mar 1, 2019 14:33
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I'm looking forward to trying out Ektar once there's more colors to be seen around here other than white and brown. 
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Mar 1, 2019 15:33
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polyester concept posted:a guy in quebec has a store that sells dev chemistry and had rollei kits with separate bleach and fix but iirc he couldn't import them anymore I placed an order with that guy this morning for a C-41 kit and some other things. No issues with the site and he responded personally with a thank you note and the tracking info.
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Mar 1, 2019 18:05
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President Beep posted:I'm looking forward to trying out Ektar once there's more colors to be seen around here other than white and brown.  Since moving to NC the weather for taking photos is great, but they still get winter conditions and it's all just been grey and rain lately. I have a roll of Ektar that is sitting waiting to be used.
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Mar 1, 2019 18:14
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Sauer posted:I placed an order with that guy this morning for a C-41 kit and some other things. No issues with the site and he responded personally with a thank you note and the tracking info. Awesome, nice to see he still has liquid C-41 and E-6 kits in stock. Pricey though  
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Mar 1, 2019 18:34
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Insanite posted:I never did end up trying new Ektachrome. I couldn't my hands on any. I grabbed a roll of it and of velvia 100 in 35mm yesterday, never shot slide film so keen to give it a go and compare, but I also want to wait for some really good shooting opportunities/locations to actually make it worth it...
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Mar 1, 2019 19:58
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polyester concept posted:Awesome, nice to see he still has liquid C-41 and E-6 kits in stock. Pricey though Yep, we pay more for everything. He does seem to have the least expensive color kits in the country though.
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Mar 1, 2019 20:09
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First the canadians came for our shoes, next it'll be our c41 kits!
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Mar 1, 2019 20:11
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Sauer posted:Yep, we pay more for everything. He does seem to have the least expensive color kits in the country though. You get sane healthcare, we get cheap photo gear and the real Amazon.
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Mar 2, 2019 00:09
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Haven't been posting much lately. Flickr app has been broken since I upgraded to "Pro" - so I haven't been using it to transfer images from my computer to IG, and what I post here is just a sideshow to that. Clever of Flickr. I pay them and they reduce my ability to consume their bandwidth.  1050 by S M, on Flickr 1092 by S M, on Flickr 1091 by S M, on Flickr
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Mar 2, 2019 00:45
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I haven't developed film since November. I've got a nasty little pile growing of HP5+ and C-41 film in my fridge. Likely not going to be able to process them until the spring too I've come to understand Winogrand now, but I'm also trying really hard to get rid of all the K100 I have left.
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Mar 2, 2019 03:15
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Testing some film long-exposure photography in Auckland CBD on a friday night (yeah what I have no life)   
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Mar 2, 2019 04:27
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Finally got (almost) all my chemicals mixed up for developing both B&W and C-41! Tomorrow I'll try my hand at my test rolls. Only chemical I'm missing is Photoflo which I think can just be replaced with a few drops of dish soap? And is optional anyways. However, my film clips haven't come in yet, anyone have any hpmebrew suggestions? I ordered some from B&H but they won't be here for another week, and lord knows I'm not gunna be able to sit on all these chemicals without developing something before then. Also, i know I can re-use the C41 developer, is it okay to re-use an Hc110 dilution? I've got a couple different types of films, so I'll be using dilutions B, E, and F - to ensure that there's enough developer for each roll of film, but also to ensure that development time is at least 5 minutes (I've read any shorter and results start getting inconsistent). Can I re-use BW fixer? If some chems can't be re-used, what's the best way to dispose of them? Are they safe to pour down the drain? CodfishCartographer fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Mar 2, 2019 |
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Mar 2, 2019 05:14
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Photoflo is just a detergent. It lowers the surface tension of the rinse bath to help the film dry in a more even manner. Dish soap does the same thing. It shouldn't react with any residual chemistry on the film but is try to use unscented and clear coloured soap just to be sure. As for clips, go to your local office supply store and grab a box of small bulldog clips. All you need them to do is add weight to the end of the roll so that it hangs straight. Just make sure that they aren't clipped onto any image frames. My very professional drying system involves a plastic hangar for drying underwear indoors, and half a dozen bulldog clips. gently caress paying $5 a pop for plastic 'photo clips'. You can reuse fixer around 15-20 times before it needs to be replaced. It will degrade a bit with use so your fixing times will increase a little towards the end of that range. Used developer can be tipped diwn the drain unless you are on a septic tank sewerage system. Fixer should be disposed at a chemical disposal facility. Your local photo lab might be able to dispose of it for you as they can recover some of the silver from it. Helen Highwater fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Mar 2, 2019 |
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Mar 2, 2019 05:56
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I've had a roll of FP4 sitting around in my box of miscellaneous film for ages and I've decided, with a lack of anything better to do this Saturday, I'm going to try and shoot it. I didn't omit a plus there by the way, this is OG FP4 which means it is at minimum 29 years old: Any tips on exposing and developing a roll of film that may be older than I am?
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Mar 2, 2019 12:24
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The usual rule of thumb is one stop of overexposure for every decade that it's been expired for. I guess metering it at ISO 50 would probably put you in the right ballpark. Depending on how it's been stored there might be fogging issues with the film that you can't fix in development. You can probably develop it with the normal timings, if you shot it at a slower speed. Maybe consider stand development to give you a bit more leeway on precisely timing film of unknown provenance.
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Mar 2, 2019 12:29
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Finished off a roll of 35mm Portra 160 yesterday. Mediocre pics, but the film itself is very cool.  
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Mar 2, 2019 20:24
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Blackhawk posted:Testing some film long-exposure photography in Auckland CBD on a friday night (yeah what I have no life) loving hell, these are cool.
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Mar 2, 2019 20:28
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Yeah, they are. A little blue cast, but Auckland CBD apparently has nice city lights. I have some similar photos of San Antonio but the sodium vapor streetlights give everything a strong yellow hue and it's not a great aesthetic.
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Mar 2, 2019 20:38
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I think the blue cast works really well for them, it creates a really cool feeling. That shot of the building with the tetris lights is my favorite.
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Mar 2, 2019 21:29
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President Beep posted:loving hell, these are cool. Chuur bru (cheers) SMERSH Mouth posted:Yeah, they are. A little blue cast, but Auckland CBD apparently has nice city lights. I have some similar photos of San Antonio but the sodium vapor streetlights give everything a strong yellow hue and it's not a great aesthetic. Yeah I know, I intentionally left some of the blue cast in because I thought it worked well with the images but it's personal preference I guess. The colours are more or less as negativelab inverted them, I mostly just played with brightness and contrast.
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Mar 2, 2019 23:06
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So I got bit by the film bug and got a bulk loader and some ultrafine. I have a rebel t2 and a rebel 2000 that take my nice canon glass. I also have an Olympus Stylus Epic Infinity I thrifted In the last few weeks I have shot and developed 6 rolls that turned out great so I looked at what other cameras I could find. Dug around at my parents place and turned up 2 canon AE1s, a minolta xg-1 and a bunch of older kodak 120 cameras, a few long expired (1970s) sealed pouches of pack film etc. I also have an old Diax IIa I thrifted and I managed to score a minolta himatic 7sII for $25 from a guy, ended up being broken but I rewired it and hillbilly fixed the exposure lock system that had lost a needle. I was talking to a friend who used to photograph professionally and she was showing me her portfolio of MF prints she had made in the 90s and I realized I would probably enjoy trying to make my own prints. I figured I would look into a cheap enlarger. Found a Durst m600 for $30, still needed trays, a timer and other tidbits so I kept looking and found this lot for $150.       It seemed like an awesome deal but it was 2 hours drive away. But I figured for the price it was worth it. Sadly I got there and the minolta slr with the winder was missing. The seller seemed sketchy on why it wasn't there. I told her I would only go $100 if she could not find the camera and she agreed. It still seemed like a great deal at $100 so I took it. Then going through all of the boxes I found a whole bunch of filters and other stuff she didn't mention. Probably the best part was this  Most feel pretty full by weight, I don't have a darkroom setup yet to count them. I also found that both film loaders have full rolls of film on them. So overall it was an amazing haul for $100. The only issue is if the photo paper or film are still usable. I also have no idea what the film in the loaders is. I found an empty Tmax 400 can so I bet one is Tmax 400, no clue on the other. Can I just load a 10 exposure roll of each and shoot them at 400 and develop? Is there an industry standard on how often the edges get marked?
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Mar 3, 2019 02:59
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Update: I found some developing notes that I'm assuming narrow down the options for the mystery films.  Update 2: I shot 10 frames of each at 400. One is blank so it's either light damaged, faster than 400 or my chemistry is off for whatever it is. The other developed ok and iscoded Kodak TMY 5053 so it's tmax 400 pro. I also got impatient waiting for the paper developer I ordered to arrive and wanted to test some of the paper. I used the ifosol 3 from the test film even though I know it's not for paper. I mixed a bit of vinegar in water as a stop bath. I refused the rapid fixer from the film and hooked the rinse tray to tap water. Took a few test prints and I ended up bumping some more developer into the mix to take it from 14-1 to approx 6-1. But I got working prints.   I even managed to screw up and flip a negative. 
my turn in the barrel fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Mar 3, 2019 |
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Mar 3, 2019 04:04
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I could use some help if anyone here is able to do so. I am currently studying a degree in visual arts, and for one of the units we need to do some film camera work. I am looking to get a camera which will allow me to do so, but I have an extremely limited budget. By extremely limited I mean barely any at all. There are some cameras on Gumtree, but the most decent looking one is a Canon EOS 300 with the basic 28-80 lens. The nice older style ones (Olympus OM-1 & 2, Pentax K1000, Canon AE-1, Minolta X700 etc) are listing around $150 plus, which is definitely out of my price range. I have seen a Canon EOS 10 for $90, but I have no idea whether having that is a good idea or not, seeing how it is older and I can't really afford money for repairs. Is anyone able to give me any guidance for this? If I buy the EOS 300, what upgrades would be best as I go along, in terms of lenses and the like. I will be mostly doing street photography, so is investing in a 50mm f1.8 lens a good idea, or should I be aiming my sights elsewhere? I live in Australia, so I don't have the greatest camera market to access, but I will do my best with what is available to me. Any help and consideration you can give me would be fantastic. I have found this posting of a kind of cheap camera buy in for old vintage cameras, but I can't guarantee how good they might be. They say the prices will be cheap and bargains could be found, but as I have no real idea of what I should be looking for, I am a bit worried about not knowing what to pick up from there. Anyone able to give me a hint as to what could be good from this listing? Cheers  Edit: Also to note, I will be using this camera to mostly take B&W photographs, if that makes a difference. The Dark Project fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Mar 3, 2019 |
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Mar 3, 2019 14:50
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my turn in the barrel posted:Update: I found some developing notes... That's cool as poo poo. Good work dude.
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Mar 3, 2019 15:23
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Are you looking to continue with it after your courses? KEH is a good place to look as they have cameras in all sorts of price ranges depending on their condition. Check your local thrift shops as well because you can occasionally get lucky there too. I started a long time ago with a Pentax SP1000 which are mechanical and last forever and probably run for $50 if you can find it. The ME Super has some more electronic control and is also a dime a dozen most places. Check eBay and your local Facebook/craigslist marketplaces as well. E: I see you’re a bit hamstrung with availability, but you’d be surprised what you can find secondhand
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Mar 3, 2019 15:24
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See if your school has cameras you can borrow for the course, unless you plan to keep photographing afterwards. My school had loads of gear they would loan out to anyone taking a relevant course for nothing or rent at very reasonable prices to any other student. There's nothing wrong with those plastic EOS cameras even if some folks in an art course might have a kneejerk hate on for them. They offer fully manual everything if you need that and the convenience of autofocus and near perfect metering when you just want to get on with things.
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Mar 3, 2019 15:30
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I went and scoured all my local pawn shops this weekend, and all of them only had digital cameras, unfortunately. Seems that the market for the old analog's at pawn shops are a thing of the past. I've been searching through Gumtree as well, as it is the best alternative to ebay over here, and there are some finds but often they aren't that great. We do get camera's to work with during our class time (mostly Pentax K1000's), but due to their rareness, the cost for repairing them, and student lack of care when it comes to other peoples property, we can only use them in class. I have a site I need to photograph, and since it is a bar, it is only really working nicely at night, so camera availability isn't something I can rely on for that time. This is also a camera I would like to keep and use myself as I progress along, and if I graduate into using digital cameras, I am thinking having EF lenses would make things a lot easier for myself when I pick up a body which can also accomodate those.
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Mar 3, 2019 16:09
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That is one of the nice things about the more modern film bodies; you can swap lenses between them and a DSLR without issue. My Nikon film bodies have no trouble using all the fancy modern Nikkors with no aperture rings and Vibration Reduction and such.
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Mar 3, 2019 16:12
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Yeah exactly this. I have found a Canon EOS 650 with a 35-50mm lens on it going really cheap, so I am going to see about nabbing it. I hope it is decent, doesn't have too many problems like mold or fungus, and that it can last for a while. If only the lens is good, well at least I get another EF series lens I can use on a better camera. But any other ideas people might have would also be well received. Starting out at the beginning is quite daunting, lol.
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Mar 3, 2019 17:06
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Helen Highwater posted:The usual rule of thumb is one stop of overexposure for every decade that it's been expired for. I guess metering it at ISO 50 would probably put you in the right ballpark. Depending on how it's been stored there might be fogging issues with the film that you can't fix in development. You can probably develop it with the normal timings, if you shot it at a slower speed. Maybe consider stand development to give you a bit more leeway on precisely timing film of unknown provenance. Thanks, I figured I'd need to overexpose but I wasn't sure about the exact ISO to meter for. I couldn't stand develop because I only have D-76 to hand at the moment and as far as I can tell it's not really useable as a stand developer. I used a 1+3 dilution though to give a bit of margin for error, whilst hoping fervently there wasn't going to be a significant difference in development times between FP4 and FP4+. The negatives I've got out look remarkably ok, considering the age of the film and the fact that it hasn't exactly been carefully stored: 
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Mar 3, 2019 18:00
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Sauer posted:That is one of the nice things about the more modern film bodies; you can swap lenses between them and a DSLR without issue. My Nikon film bodies have no trouble using all the fancy modern Nikkors with no aperture rings and Vibration Reduction and such. As much as I love using my Pentax cameras, I was recently gifted an EOS-1n and it's been amazing in terms of having the conveniences of using my DSLR glass and having the functionality of a digital while still shooting film. It's also got the battery grip so if I truly wanted to burn money I could burn through rolls for forever.
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Mar 4, 2019 01:37
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Mar 4, 2019 10:35
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Sauer posted:See if your school has cameras you can borrow for the course, unless you plan to keep photographing afterwards. My school had loads of gear they would loan out to anyone taking a relevant course for nothing or rent at very reasonable prices to any other student. To piggyback on this, my first film camera was one of those silver Canon Rebels - I think I paid maybe $16 for it. The camera itself, in my opinion, is the least important part of photography and you really shouldn't trip on this. More important to be going after subjects that speak to you, moods you're trying to convey, and interesting compositions and lighting than anything else - especially when you're just starting out.
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Mar 5, 2019 01:39
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FWIW, when I took a film developing and printing seminar at the Leica academy there were a few of their regular students that had signed up for full courses etc. They all had Dianas or Sardinias. I guess it mostly depends on what you want to do down the line, if you're going to be shooting more film spend some extra money on it but dont worry too much about gear when you're first starting out. I found that being a bit more limited in gear has actually helped me put more thought in my shots. Bargains always turn up and you can always get a better camera and lenses later.
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Mar 5, 2019 09:09
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 P-39 Air Cobra, Kalamazoo Air Zoo by President Beep, on Flickr  B-25 Mitchell, Kalamazoo Air Zoo by President Beep, on Flickr
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Mar 8, 2019 18:05
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I've just ordered a 100 foot roll of Ultrafine Xtreme(!!!) 400 film. About half the price of HP5+, but folks out there seem to like it. Looking forward to checking it out.
President Beep fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Mar 8, 2019 |
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Mar 8, 2019 18:07
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