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Cat Face Joe posted:Here's the only magnet source you'll need: https://www.kjmagnetics.com Ebay is pretty good too since you can usually get free shipping.
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Mar 8, 2019 16:28
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Miles O'Brian posted:I'm someone who generally just buys citadel paints and tools because I'm lazy like that but Tamiya Extra Thin was a revelation for me. I hated using plastic glue of any kind until I picked some up, now I could never use anything else. Its honestly the best and I will throw my love of the product into the discussion anytime it comes up. So if I get this right that type of plastic cement/glue wouldn't work well with traditional humanoid minis cause they lack overlapping flat surfaces? I really hate the super glue I've been using so far (random non-model specific one, can't remember the brand) cause it has the "crystallize/brittle" issue and also seems to dissolve details when running over...and the applicator is crap, so it's difficult not to make it overflow.
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Mar 8, 2019 16:40
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darnon posted:3mm is pretty huge for pinning and you don't need threaded brass for it. 1mm drill bits and paper clips should cover most stuff. Head pins for beads are pretty cheap also. I got a bunch of 21 gauge that I use for smaller, fiddlier items. This sort of thing is exactly why I ask. I misread the units and thought it was 0.5mm. But if paper clips are fine, I've got those. Cat Face Joe posted:Here's the only magnet source you'll need: https://www.kjmagnetics.com That's also good to know. I've been trying to move away from Amazon as a whole. Thanks. Inspector_666 posted:That drill works but there is a reason it's the cheapest one on Amazon. Source: I bought it too.
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Mar 8, 2019 17:36
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Doorknob Slobber posted:when using a wet palette should there be standing water in the bottom of the container or should it all be absorbed by the pad? Aside from a few droplets, all of your moisture should be in the sponge. You sponge should also not be sopping wet - kind of half-heartedly wring it out. You don't want it dripping, but you don't want it just damp either.
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Mar 8, 2019 17:47
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ijyt posted:Lmao this is a shill post. If you can use a paint brush you can use tamiya glue, genuinely lol at this post. The one time I got a bottle of tamiya the lid melted to the bottle and i had to pry it off. Every time I would pull the brush out it would be covered in gunk. Just not a fan at all of the applicator.
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Mar 8, 2019 17:59
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Zuul the Cat posted:The one time I got a bottle of tamiya the lid melted to the bottle and i had to pry it off. Every time I would pull the brush out it would be covered in gunk. Just not a fan at all of the applicator. I've never heard of this happening. Tamiya is the only stuff my LGS stocks and it's what pretty much everyone who goes there uses.
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Mar 8, 2019 18:13
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Serenade posted:Finally picking up tools for pinning and magnetizing, is there a known "best" brand or supplier? I was looking at this drill and these magnets to start. I'm also going to grab these metal rods as none of my local hardware stores carry metal that thin. You can get these drills on eBay for pretty cheap if you haven't got it from Amazon already.
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Mar 8, 2019 18:19
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Zuul the Cat posted:The one time I got a bottle of tamiya the lid melted to the bottle and i had to pry it off. Every time I would pull the brush out it would be covered in gunk. Just not a fan at all of the applicator. What the gently caress. I've had a bottle leak where I didn't screw it down properly and the plastic the cap is made of is (obviously?) completely unreactive with the glue. How are you managing this
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Mar 8, 2019 18:29
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TTerrible posted:What the gently caress. I've had a bottle leak where I didn't screw it down properly and the plastic the cap is made of is (obviously?) completely unreactive with the glue. How are you managing this I've no idea. I bought it specifically because everyone likes it so much, but my experience with it was just so bad I've steered clear of it since.
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Mar 8, 2019 18:52
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I bought a bunch of Frostgrave minis so all this plastic glue talk has been useful.
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Mar 8, 2019 18:55
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Zuul the Cat posted:I've no idea. I bought it specifically because everyone likes it so much, but my experience with it was just so bad I've steered clear of it since. It honestly sounds like you got some kind of weird counterfeit or defective bottle. The glue shouldn't attack the cap or turn anything into a gummy mess 
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Mar 8, 2019 18:58
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Have you guys not heard the good word of Loctite Gel Control?
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Mar 8, 2019 20:19
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Zuul the Cat posted:The one time I got a bottle of tamiya the lid melted to the bottle and i had to pry it off. Every time I would pull the brush out it would be covered in gunk. Just not a fan at all of the applicator. Ok granted I have had the foam seal bit glue shut my lid once, that was pretty lame.
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Mar 8, 2019 20:24
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BULBASAUR posted:Have you guys not heard the good word of Loctite Gel Control? ULTRA gel control. And yeah that poo poo is great too, but tamiya and testors model master are good for plastic models as well. I like the solvent bond when I can get away with it (not much these days with all my resin minis)
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Mar 8, 2019 20:38
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Oh this super bites: definitely gonna warn people off getting the army painter sets even though I enjoyed them for a while. A good chunk of the higher saturation pigments: bright purples and greens and blues especially, even ones I hadnt used or opened yet, they pretty much clotted? It's something I havent seen before, GW pots dry out or the pigment starts clumping, this turned into a porous mass the consistency of spongecake Metallics and washes are still pretty good and some of the colors in the line are fine but its so darn hit or miss. Sharkopath fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Mar 8, 2019 |
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Mar 8, 2019 21:32
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Sharkopath posted:the consistency of spongecake Does it... taste... like spongecake?
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Mar 8, 2019 21:54
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crazystray posted:Does it... taste... like spongecake? When I tried to see how bad it was it filled the entire shape of the bottle, so I wouldn't recommend it as a dish unless you like marrow. A bit bummed cause even as a new painter I was pretty happy and doing fine and this scheme I tried ended up so poor I'm gonna learn how to strip models and try again. I blame the paint mostly though.
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Mar 8, 2019 21:57
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I prefer Guerilla Glue Gel but cyanoacrylate is basically cyanoacrylate.
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Mar 8, 2019 22:11
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Is there a US distributor you folks are getting your superglue from? Because even selecting from the higher-dollar stuff, I'm definitely getting more bad bottles than good. I'm thinking maybe my local hardware store's just had this poo poo sitting on the shelves for years at this point.
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Mar 8, 2019 22:47
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I use loctite professional liquid superglue which is sold cheaply pretty much everywhere and works great. (use plastic glue for plastic, tho)
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Mar 8, 2019 22:50
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Just be happy you don't live a mile high where every superglue I open explodes violently.
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Mar 8, 2019 22:58
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+1 for the loctite professional. it costs a couple dollars more but I've never had an issue with it. I mostly assemble and use oldhammer metal stuff and it works great.
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Mar 8, 2019 23:52
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I've been painting for a little while but I still feel like I'm very new to a lot of the techniques of washes, highlighting, etc. My minis definitely reflect this (as well as my unsteady hands). But that said I'm pretty happy with how this Trenchers unit turned out. In particular I focused on using a wash and building up highlighting on the capes, and those are probably the best part of these minis. I've been following this thread for a while and been kinda afraid to post anything because so many people are incredibly talented and committed. But I'm finally just gonna go ahead and post. Trenchers + Capt. Maxwell Finn:     
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Mar 9, 2019 00:44
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I have a rather odd question. I am going to have to heat my house to take care of a pest problem. The people will raise the temperature of my house to around 120 for about 2 hours. At this temperature and time, should I remove my painted miniatures or will they be ok? Mostly GW paints on metal and plastic figures.
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Mar 9, 2019 00:54
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120 what?
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Mar 9, 2019 00:56
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^^^ hope it's F and not C otherwise those minis will not be the only thing being liquefied  (120F is about 48C°)Sharkopath posted:When I tried to see how bad it was it filled the entire shape of the bottle, so I wouldn't recommend it as a dish unless you like marrow. How long after you've opened them up has this happened? I've had an unopened AP set for a couple of years almost, opened it up recently and the colors were all still good (although I had to add some stuff into the containers to get the pigment to mix properly with the medium after all that time laying unopened). That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Mar 9, 2019 |
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Mar 9, 2019 00:57
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thespaceinvader posted:120 what? Yes, 120 F. Forgot to specify.
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Mar 9, 2019 01:18
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Less than 50 degrees c, you should be fine, I would expect. But if you're concerned, grab an old mini you don't care about and test it.
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Mar 9, 2019 01:21
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That Italian Guy posted:^^^ hope it's F and not C otherwise those minis will not be the only thing being liquefied ive only been painting for a handful of weeks, so maybe a month at most. It was also only some bottles and not the whole set, but a lot of the purple is no good.
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Mar 9, 2019 01:58
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Nash posted:I have a rather odd question. I am going to have to heat my house to take care of a pest problem. The people will raise the temperature of my house to around 120 for about 2 hours. At this temperature and time, should I remove my painted miniatures or will they be ok? Mostly GW paints on metal and plastic figures. GW plastic and metal will probably be fine. Resin/finecast will bend and you'll need to heat and rebend them. I'm not sure what it'll do to potted paints, but I'd remove them. If it's not too hard I'd take everything out of your house.
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Mar 9, 2019 02:22
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Stick em all in the fridge. 
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Mar 9, 2019 02:44
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I dunno about anything already painted, but bare plastic and metal should largely be fine. Some thin/tiny bits might get bent, but I wouldn't worry too much about it. I'd take any paint pots out of the house, and any spray cans.
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Mar 9, 2019 05:41
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After watching hours of YouTube videos of paint drying, and discovering I had been doing it wrong all this time  I've got the interest in coming back into the hobby. Finding the GW FREE paint app and seeing the 3 simple(?!?) parts of Basecoat-> Wash -> Drybrush has blown my mind.My idea is for a new guard army (because my old 15 year old one is nearly completely not matching the existing codex, and I am ashamed of the old paint jobs) I aim to start from fresh. I've got about 30 different figures I never got past basecoating to play around with. My idea is for a Mordian infantry battalion in serried ranks, all standing next to each other, probably built using Victorian Miniatures Victorian Guard 10 Man Firing Line Squad or Anvil Industries Belgic Sharko Heads with Cross Belt Torsos. Does anyone have experience with the Victorian Miniatures or Anvil Industries? Would they work together (ie- the Victorian Guard 10 Man Firing Line Squad WITH the Anvil Industries Belgic Sharko Heads with Cross Belt Torsos)? This makes the base of the army non-GW, so I guess I won't be using it at their stores. I love the idea of the male AND female Victorian Guard 10 (Wo)Man Firing Line Squad but I don't like the Pith Helmets. Does anyone have any experiencing in converting the Pith Helmets to Sharko's, I guess using green stuff? I've got the Warhammer 40,000 Citadel Essentials Set, Drakenhof Nightshade and Chronus Blue, though, that's the same exact colour as Ultramarines. Should I use a black undercoat or white? I'm guessing white makes more sense, and make the pants grey rather than pure white.
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Mar 9, 2019 08:27
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I prefer Guerilla Glue Gel but cyanoacrylate is basically cyanoacrylate. Funny thing is, something about the texture of the Gorilla Gel superglue means it seems to have a bit of a longer shelf life too.
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Mar 9, 2019 10:21
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I really like the GW paint app
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Mar 9, 2019 13:19
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LazyAngel posted:Funny thing is, something about the texture of the Gorilla Gel superglue means it seems to have a bit of a longer shelf life too. Very true. I have several bottles that are still good.
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Mar 9, 2019 14:36
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Comstar posted:After watching hours of YouTube videos of paint drying, and discovering I had been doing it wrong all this time Those lines should be compatible; IIRC they we're all meant to interface with the basic Cadian sprue. Give it a shot and see what happens. I would likely undercoat white for a more vibrant look. Honestly the best way to figure things out is to just paint.
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Mar 9, 2019 14:38
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TotalHell posted:I've been painting for a little while but I still feel like I'm very new to a lot of the techniques of washes, highlighting, etc. My minis definitely reflect this (as well as my unsteady hands). But that said I'm pretty happy with how this Trenchers unit turned out. In particular I focused on using a wash and building up highlighting on the capes, and those are probably the best part of these minis. Hello fellow new painter! I experience the same anxieties you do about posting my paint jobs. You're a lot further along in skill level than I am for what it's worth it! I like these dudes you did, they are awesome. 
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Mar 9, 2019 16:33
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I said come in! posted:Hello fellow new painter! I experience the same anxieties you do about posting my paint jobs. You're a lot further along in skill level than I am for what it's worth it! I like these dudes you did, they are awesome. new painter club represent  unfinished, but im having fun at least
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Mar 9, 2019 17:38
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Doorknob Slobber posted:new painter club represent Lookin' good so far. Welcome to the madness!
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Mar 9, 2019 17:40
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