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Xabi posted:I just discovered a tiny scratch on the front element of one of my lenses. It’s hardly visible and I can’t feel it, so I guess it’s a tiny one* (would it be worse if I could feel the scratch with my nail, in other words if the scratch was “deeper”?) Should I be worried about anything other than possibly the resell value? No, you should not be worried.
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# ? Feb 20, 2019 20:08 |
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# ? Jun 12, 2024 09:40 |
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Well that was quick and reassuring. Thank you, people!
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# ? Feb 20, 2019 20:20 |
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There's been a few blog posts about how much damage the front element can take before the results are really noticable. Here's one - https://petapixel.com/2015/07/02/how-much-does-a-scratch-affect-the-quality-of-a-lens/
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# ? Feb 20, 2019 20:32 |
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I asked a similar question months ago when my 18-55mm got scratched. It's not nearly as bad as what is shown in the article. That being said, took it to Alaska and sure enough it ruined some pictures that I'll likely never get a chance to retake.
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# ? Feb 20, 2019 20:39 |
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Internet Explorer posted:That being said, took it to Alaska and sure enough it ruined some pictures that I'll likely never get a chance to retake. Weird flares or something?
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# ? Feb 20, 2019 20:56 |
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I'm a stupid newbie when it comes to cameras so I can't really describe it that well, so here are 2 random shots that show the issue. [Edit: I'm really bad, please don't judge.] Also, I'm not saying that the very knowledgeable and helpful people in this thread are wrong. I'm mostly just bummed that I'd have to buy a new lens because the 18-55mm is great, especially for hiking. I thought about using it as an excuse to buy the higher end one but it's much heavier. https://imgur.com/Rauzo3U https://imgur.com/vulif4W
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# ? Feb 20, 2019 21:08 |
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Oh, yeah, I think I can see it in the first one--that kind of trail of skipping marks across the bottom quarter of the frame? Bummer.
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# ? Feb 20, 2019 21:18 |
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President Beep posted:Oh, yeah, I think I can see it in the first one--that kind of trail of skipping marks across the bottom quarter of the frame? Bummer. Yup! Sorry, forgot to point it out. In the second one I think it caused the vertical streaks in the clouds. It normally just looks exactly like what you'd think a circular scratch would look like, but depending on the lighting I guess it can appear in a different fashion.
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# ? Feb 20, 2019 21:29 |
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EL BROMANCE posted:There's been a few blog posts about how much damage the front element can take before the results are really noticable. Here's one - https://petapixel.com/2015/07/02/how-much-does-a-scratch-affect-the-quality-of-a-lens/ My favorite is this one: https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2008/10/front-element-scratches/
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# ? Feb 20, 2019 22:03 |
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Arcsech posted:My favorite is this one: https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2008/10/front-element-scratches/ Couldn't resist revisiting this one: https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2017/09/rental-camera-gear-destroyed-by-the-solar-eclipse-of-2017/
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# ? Feb 20, 2019 22:22 |
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Since I think the photo business thread is long gone, I just had my first inquiry about purchasing a photo and I have no idea what to do. Any guidance would be great. I assume I should inquire about the intended usage? I am excited and terrified.
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# ? Feb 27, 2019 05:22 |
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Nice, congrats! Yes, the intended usage is a big part of it, but just talk to them to get answers and try not to stress out too much. Editorial use like newspaper runs are generally handled as a one-time fee. Try not to let anyone lowball you but expect lovely pricing. Around here it's $50-150 per picture depending on the size and use. Lows I've seen from other folks are £70 for a 7 page full color spread in a major magazine, including the article, but at least then they made their actual money off the resulting travel agency and dive classes. I don't know much about rights buy outs or commercial things (ads, stock photos, etc.), but I do know those are generally priced a lot higher and you need to be more careful about the paperwork. If they want to buy a print then it's good to get some details on the space that it'll be going in (lighting, wall color, etc.) and consult them on size, material, and finish options. If possible, retouch your stuff depending on the material, because some things like metal prints come out pretty dark. Keep a mark up in mind and give them quotes based on that. I'm about 50% markup for home use, the highest I've seen is ~100% markup locally, but all of that is wildlife stuff fwiw . If it's going into an office just roll your consulting/interior design time into a higher markup unless they really want to bring you in for a significant amount of time. e: Should specify that the 50-100 markup is because it's mostly metal prints here (paper gets destroyed by the high humidity if you lose power/AC for a day and things like plexiglass laminates will separate) and those can get out of peoples' price ranges really fast. Paper prints or things on the lower end of production cost are priced a bit more arbitrarily since it's mostly paying for your time etc. Atlatl fucked around with this message at 11:04 on Feb 27, 2019 |
# ? Feb 27, 2019 07:54 |
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What's the general mindset about trying to sell prints online? Do you do it through personal portfolio websites or another means? I'm not thinking I'll make bank doing it but I've had some interest through friends groups for the odd portrait so I figure why not see?
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# ? Mar 1, 2019 21:10 |
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I use smugmug and everyone I know in person has moved to it as well, it's cheap considering it automates the buying process online for someone who knows what they want. Their cut isn't bad and the print lab I normally use is on it. It works as a portfolio* and someone can just click buy right there. Almost everyone I've dealt with just winds up with choice paralysis and contacts you to order something in the end, though. *Everyone has at least a few pics that suck rear end that you tossed up on social media somewhere but people inexplicably will go out of their way to try and buy it and like hell you're going to say no. You only need to sell a handful of prints a year to break even on smugmug so it's not that bad a deal I think. If you have people bugging you then it's probably ok to go ahead if you feel comfortable with it.
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# ? Mar 1, 2019 22:40 |
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I'll be doing more portrait photography. So I'm thinking of getting a pair of strobes (one for on-camera, one for off-camera). Currently shoot with GH5 but considering getting a Canon 5Diii. Any recommendations for strobes/remote flash kit that would work across both the Canon and Panny ecosystems without issue? I saw this LumoPro LP180 kit on Strobist that seems to be highly recommended and am considering it.
melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Mar 3, 2019 |
# ? Mar 3, 2019 18:46 |
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Get 2-3 yongnuo 560IV for the price of one of those. Edit: and they have built in transceivers.
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# ? Mar 3, 2019 19:46 |
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eternity test posted:Get 2-3 yongnuo 560IV for the price of one of those. melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Mar 4, 2019 |
# ? Mar 3, 2019 22:58 |
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It’s a manual flash so just set power and zoom, there’s nothing else to it really. Learning the interface takes less than a minute. I don’t actually own a 560iv but my weird hybrid system of a 660 (the 560s slightly more expensive and powerful sister), a Canon 430ex with a cheap yongnuo transceiver and the 560tx commander was very easy to set up and has been really reliable this far. I’m going to buy a couple of 560ivs later this month and retire the 430ex from my portrait setup just so I can control everything from the 560tx and not have to run around fiddling with settings. Also, having 3 lights is nice. Key, fill and background/rim light allows you to do a lot.
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# ? Mar 4, 2019 00:07 |
I own a couple 560s (mix of iI and iv) and they're p. good for how loving unbelievably cheap they are, but if I was starting out now I might actually look at godox instead, as while they're slightly more expensive they also have a much richer environment to grow into without having to swap out your transciever system, since they actually have a line of studio strobes and also the ad200, which is basically a weirdo missing link between studio cans and speedlites. If you absolutely are concerned with price though you can't really go wrong with Yongnuo, a flash system so cheap you could literally show up to a gig with a bandolier of speedlites and just swap them out as they die
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# ? Mar 4, 2019 03:26 |
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Babysitter Super Sleuth posted:I own a couple 560s (mix of iI and iv) and they're p. good for how loving unbelievably cheap they are, but if I was starting out now I might actually look at godox instead, as while they're slightly more expensive they also have a much richer environment to grow into without having to swap out your transciever system, since they actually have a line of studio strobes and also the ad200, which is basically a weirdo missing link between studio cans and speedlites. Even though I'm mostly Godox these days I still keep around some Yongnuos in case I want to try something crazy with lighting that doesn't need much control from the camera. Yongnuo is a good place to start if you want to practice but not drop a bunch of cash. After you learn whatever with those think through your use cases and go from there.
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# ? Mar 4, 2019 14:52 |
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What’s the recommended metadata editor for importing photos into an iPad and, preferably, ditching the RAWs? Ben Long (Lynda) recommended PhotosInfoPro but it looks like it’s been discontinued. Mostly I’m looking for a workflow where I can tinker with imports, add location/keywords, then work on shots later on my desktop.
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# ? Mar 6, 2019 16:14 |
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Circling back to the Yonguo 560iv. Considering it. But also considering Godox as we might end up getting a strobe at some point and it'd be nice to be able to just grow within their ecosystem should we expand our equipment. Anyone out there who has experience with the the Godox TT 600 (or is there a better Godox manual flash to consider)? And what kind of soft modifiers are you all using for your portrait gigs? melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Mar 7, 2019 |
# ? Mar 7, 2019 20:26 |
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There’s a new Godox that’s coming out that looks neat, but I have zero idea of the price. It’s up on Adorama as a preorder right now. I believe V1 is the model number. E: fixed model number. https://photorumors.com/2019/03/06/godox-v1-flash-finally-released/ EL BROMANCE fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Mar 8, 2019 |
# ? Mar 8, 2019 01:43 |
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melon cat posted:Circling back to the Yonguo 560iv. Considering it. But also considering Godox as we might end up getting a strobe at some point and it'd be nice to be able to just grow within their ecosystem should we expand our equipment. Anyone out there who has experience with the the Godox TT 600 (or is there a better Godox manual flash to consider)? With Godox I'm not sure if there's a good reason to go manual except for maybe cost. And then there's the question of does your use cases specifically call for the 600's. Most of the time I'm just using a couple of AD200's with the XT1 trigger. All of that would come at just about the cost of a 600. I have though about getting a AD400 because I recently have come into some cases where I could use more power in one light. As for modifiers can't go wrong with umbrellas, either shoot through or reflect (though I tend to lean towards reflect). You can get Wescott umbrellas at decent prices and they'll last. Though my favorite is the Phottix Premio 120.
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# ? Mar 8, 2019 01:57 |
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After wanting one for nearly a year, I finally ordered a Nikon 200-500mm lens. I've never owned a lens this big before, so I was wondering if anyone had tips for carrying it around. I plan to use this lens mostly for birding (and whatever other wildlife I find), so I'll probably be walking for a couple miles whenever I go out with it. The weight shouldn't be a problem, but it's kind of a bulky lens. I normally just use a simple padded strap for my camera, without a tripod or anything, and let the camera hang off to the side. Is there a good way to carry a big telephoto like this? Should I look into any sort of gear (a different sort of strap, monopod, etc.)? Please let me know if there's a webpage that goes over things like this.
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# ? Mar 9, 2019 05:24 |
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I only used one for a weeks rental so can’t offer much advice, but I think you’re right when you say it’s not about the weight but the size. Enjoy the new toy!
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# ? Mar 9, 2019 05:36 |
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I don't have any clever solutions you couldn't think of. A small bag to carry just that lens + body should do the trick. Ape Case ACPROLC18 Professional Large Lens Case, Black/Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KY5YYO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hj0GCbVBMVN1A Something like that, doesn't have to be the $180 lowepro. A hard case for travel would be worth it as well, but I'd make sure you want to keep the lens before doing stuff like that. I had a 400 for a while and realized I rarely used it.
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# ? Mar 9, 2019 05:38 |
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Congrats! I have an acquaintance who recently got that lens and loves it. You probably don't need a special bag just to carry it around unless you are expecting inclement weather/sand/banging it around rocks etc. Keep it out and ready to shoot with! You might think about something like a black rapid strap attached to the lens' tripod foot rather than the camera body. Better balance that way. Otherwise there's the potential for some strain on the camera mount. Nothing to panic about if you don't have this, but something to think about. The Gen 2 tamrons don't fit in it, but I used to use a Think Tank digital holster on a padded shoulder strap. It was pretty convenient although not padded on the lower portion. I'm not sure of the model number, don't have it with me. Monopod or tripod is not a bad idea if you are going to a small local (e.g. boardwalk at a wetlands), but the point is that these lenses are light enough to reasonably hand-hold so take advantage of that and enjoy the mobility.
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# ? Mar 9, 2019 06:30 |
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Thanks for the opinions, all! After a bit of research on my own as well, I've settled on a black rapid strap. That seems to be what I want, for usability and comfort. I rented this lens a year ago, so I have some idea what I'm getting myself into, and I don't think my normal strap would have been a good long-term solution. Plus, I think I would have felt silly walking around with a big lens on a little strap.
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# ? Mar 9, 2019 06:41 |
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I have black rapids and I've almost always preferred a bag when going birding. It usually involved gaining some elevation so the background wasn't consistently sky. I'd prefer to have my hands available for that and not bracing my camera from hitting a tree or rock. Maybe we're thinking of two different kinds of birding and a strap is adequate. I liked taking photos of raptors mostly.
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# ? Mar 9, 2019 07:08 |
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I’ve never done any actual hiking while carrying my 150-600, but for more leisurely trail walking I’ve found that carrying my setup with a BR strap tethered to the tripod foot is the way to go. But yeah, I bet it’d be a hassle trying to do anything more rigorous than that without having it in a backpack. It is a fair bit of weight, and while it’s well distributed on the strap, it can swing around.
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# ? Mar 9, 2019 07:14 |
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It probably doesn't seem that heavy now but it adds up fast. If you get it into a backpack with all your other stuff it's gonna be a significant percentage of the overall weight. Same if you spend a few hours walking around with it in hand. It gets heavier as the day goes on. Point being you're gonna want a backpack for it, and before going out for the day you're gonna wanna think real hard about bringing it on a hike unless the specific goal is wildlife. Don't haul it just because.
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# ? Mar 9, 2019 15:20 |
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My advice is to embrace leisurely trail walking, and if you want to do serious hiking, bring a smaller lens. At least that's what I do. From my own experience, I'm much more likely to actually take picture if the camera is out and ready to go– the activation energy to stop, fiddle with my backpack, get the camera out, shoot (assuming the critter is still there), put it away, is not insignificant. My default is slow anyway since I also have binoculars out and I'm checking out birds etc. Of course if you have a plan, like get to the top of a mountain and get some cool tele shots, then a backpack is definitely the way to go. And yeah, my shoulders feel it after a few hours. Not going to lie.
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# ? Mar 9, 2019 18:26 |
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BetterLekNextTime posted:My advice is to embrace leisurely trail walking, and if you want to do serious hiking, bring a smaller lens. At least that's what I do. From my own experience, I'm much more likely to actually take picture if the camera is out and ready to go– the activation energy to stop, fiddle with my backpack, get the camera out, shoot (assuming the critter is still there), put it away, is not insignificant. My default is slow anyway since I also have binoculars out and I'm checking out birds etc. Of course if you have a plan, like get to the top of a mountain and get some cool tele shots, then a backpack is definitely the way to go. Yeah, this is my general plan. I generally go birding on flat trails, and I'd rather have the camera out and ready to go. If I hike up a mountain, I'm not usually thinking about birds; in that case, I'd rather just enjoy the fresh air and vistas.
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# ? Mar 10, 2019 19:22 |
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Is there any difference performance-wise between using an SD card versus a microSD card with SD adapter? The former costs twice as the latter, while I have a couple of adapters lying around.
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 12:06 |
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Schneider Heim posted:Is there any difference performance-wise between using an SD card versus a microSD card with SD adapter? The former costs twice as the latter, while I have a couple of adapters lying around. The sd cards with adapters tend to have a high read speed but abysmal write speeds, just check that - I've seen 300mbps cards that have 25mbps write speeds, and 100mbps ones with 5mbps write speeds.
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 12:35 |
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drat, they're the same brand and type (Sandisk Ultra), I didn't know adapting impacts performance?
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 13:19 |
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Schneider Heim posted:drat, they're the same brand and type (Sandisk Ultra), I didn't know adapting impacts performance? Yeah, it's super disingenuous, looking at this : https://www.sandisk.com/home/memory-cards/microsd-cards/ultra-microsd-400gb Note they only ever advertise the read speed, and then waaaay at the bottom under the disclosures, they say "** Up to 100MB/s read speed; write speed lower." How much lower? 40MB/s in reviews. That's really a bit useless for any recent camera, in my mind.
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 15:07 |
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I was sent this a while ago and it neatly summarises the confusion and misleading marketing around SD and microSD cards: https://twitter.com/ErrataRob/status/1100849214102401026 (click for thread) Ultimately: you get what you pay for. If you need high MB/s write speeds, you're not gonna get that in a $30 card of usable capacity. Sony's SD cards are conveniently and obviously labelled with read AND write speeds to help make it easy to choose. I'll likely buy two of those next time I'm shopping.
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 18:32 |
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# ? Jun 12, 2024 09:40 |
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^^^ Lol the marketing for SD cards suck. At least my CF/XDQ cards simply have a read and write speed and a somewhat hidden not consumery class code.
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 18:55 |