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Selklubber posted:I was googling for thock.jpg for some reason, found this and had to share it with you smdh at giving a HHKB as a wedding gift.
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# ? Mar 8, 2019 04:57 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 03:48 |
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VostokProgram posted:Anyone have strong opinions on ducky boards? I'm thinking about getting this one in silent reds I have an older 1608S with MX Speeds. I really like the keyboard, but i keep swapping to my 60% because my desk space keeps shrinking for some reason.
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# ? Mar 8, 2019 18:44 |
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Is the Majestouch 2 still the best no-nonsense full-size tenkeyless with cherry switches? I've used one with Cherry Blues for many years, but I was thinking I'd buy something nice for work and I'm not seeing that many alternatives that don't have LEDs, non-standard key layouts, blank keys or whatnot. I am happy with the Majestouch 2 so my plan was to just get some with Cherry Browns for the office to keep from driving my coworkers insane, but I'd love to look at some alternatives if there is new cool stuff on the market. edit: Something like a Varmilo VA88M with Cherry Clears perhaps? thotsky fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Mar 10, 2019 |
# ? Mar 9, 2019 18:32 |
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VostokProgram posted:Anyone have strong opinions on ducky boards? I'm thinking about getting this one in silent reds I've barely seen an ill word about Ducky's products. They're all top shelf poo poo as far as I can tell.
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# ? Mar 9, 2019 21:09 |
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I'm looking for decals. Specifically, decals for media controls, and possibly other fn-layer keys. I want to put them on the side of the corresponding key(caps) because I'm switching between keyboards regularly and forget them. What's the best way to get or make them?
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# ? Mar 10, 2019 16:49 |
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Anyone got any thoughts about the Anne Pro 2? Looking to get into this weird hobby with something more fashion over function and something I can easily switch caps out with. My Romer-G keyboard recently hosed up when I tried to remove caps
StabMasterArson fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Mar 10, 2019 |
# ? Mar 10, 2019 18:20 |
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Inzombiac posted:I picked up a Motospeed board for cheap because I didn't know if this Trip report: While this thing was pretty cheap and looks great, it's LOUD. Blue switches it turns out. I've read that there are "fake" mechanical keyboards where you can't swap the switches and I'm afraid I may be in that boat. It's fine while playing games but my ADD rear end gets really distracted while typing.
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# ? Mar 10, 2019 20:02 |
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Inzombiac posted:Trip report: If it's got blue switches then it's not fake, but changing them may require desoldering the switches from the main PCB and soldering on new switches. That's actually super common but there are some keyboards nowadays that can swap switches without desoldering. It's a niche feature and not common, though.
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# ? Mar 10, 2019 20:08 |
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Ah, that makes sense. I can't really return it but I may get a red switch one and give my partner this one. As a casual consumer, can someone recommend a gaudy keyboard that is on the quiet side? Sub $75 hopefully. I watched some switch noise comparison videos and most seem quieter than the one I have.
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# ? Mar 10, 2019 20:27 |
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Part of it has to do with the case of the board itself, how the internals change the acoustics. Think about a guitar, how it has a hollow body so the sound ends up much louder than the strings would be by themselves. I’ve never done it, but I know some people fill the body of their keyboards with sound-dampening foam if that’s the issue. Personally I really like brown switches over reds, and they seem to be a bit easier to find at a budget price.
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# ? Mar 10, 2019 20:52 |
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Sometimes it helps to open the case and stuff it with vibration-dampening foam. Also putting some rubber feet under the board.
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# ? Mar 10, 2019 21:14 |
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StabMasterArson posted:Anyone got any thoughts about the Anne Pro 2? Looking to get into this weird hobby with something more fashion over function and something I can easily switch caps out with. My Romer-G keyboard recently hosed up when I tried to remove caps I've been using it for the past few months (with Gateron Browns) and I'd recommend it. I really like how you can use the left fn/ctrl/shift keys as arrow keys by tapping them; another neat thing is that holding down capslock makes it a second FN1 key (so I don't have to remap capslock, as it is used in most games). Their software is perfectly serviceable for updates, adjusting the layout and lighting, and recording macros. Looking on r/AnnePro, some people reported issues with the LEDs and Bluetooth: I had no issues with backlighting, and I always used it wired so I didn't encounter any of the common pitfalls. But do make sure before buying that you're fine with a 60% layout.
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# ? Mar 10, 2019 21:26 |
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Part of it has to do with the case of the board itself, how the internals change the acoustics. Think about a guitar, how it has a hollow body so the sound ends up much louder than the strings would be by themselves. Oh that makes sense. There is basically no case on this one. The undercarriage is fully exposed. Hmmmmm.
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# ? Mar 10, 2019 21:35 |
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mewse posted:Are those the 4x16 ortho boards you've posted about? Yep. In fact, here. The first kit I'll be offering for sale will be a simplified version (without the video game logos on the bottom) of this. Acrylic plates, PCB. Provide your own microcontroller module, diodes, and switches. The new feature, in addition to all of the basic revisions provided by prototyping, is the ability to add underlighting. With effects. Thanks, QMK!
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# ? Mar 10, 2019 21:47 |
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or maybe Knight
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# ? Mar 10, 2019 21:53 |
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I need to do a bunch of prototyping on the aluminum cases and the actual acrylic plates. My difficulty for the plates right now will be figuring out the feeds and speeds on the laser for cutting away half of 3mm acrylic, but that shouldn't be TOO hard.
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# ? Mar 10, 2019 22:14 |
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Bourricot posted:I've been using it for the past few months (with Gateron Browns) and I'd recommend it. I really like how you can use the left fn/ctrl/shift keys as arrow keys by tapping them; another neat thing is that holding down capslock makes it a second FN1 key (so I don't have to remap capslock, as it is used in most games). Their software is perfectly serviceable for updates, adjusting the layout and lighting, and recording macros. Looking on r/AnnePro, some people reported issues with the LEDs and Bluetooth: I had no issues with backlighting, and I always used it wired so I didn't encounter any of the common pitfalls. Thanks for the review, sounds great. It'd be a backup keyboard to my full sized one for using in places where there's not a desk, probably used wirelessly
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# ? Mar 10, 2019 23:38 |
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Has anyone tried 3d printing custom keycaps? I looked into the process of molding my own keycaps and honestly I was like I'm in a small apartment I don't really have space let alone the time to do this so I'm considering the 3d printing route. Which honestly I'm terrible at 3d but seems more in my wheelhouse than sculpting. Video below is pretty detailed for the molding process if anyone is interested. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93rkBbT-pOI
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# ? Mar 13, 2019 17:26 |
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clockwork automaton posted:Has anyone tried 3d printing custom keycaps? I looked into the process of molding my own keycaps and honestly I was like I'm in a small apartment I don't really have space let alone the time to do this so I'm considering the 3d printing route. Which honestly I'm terrible at 3d but seems more in my wheelhouse than sculpting. 3D printed caps will be super lovely vs commercial injection molding unless you have a resin printer or something. I’ve got a prusa and haven’t even tried
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# ? Mar 13, 2019 17:33 |
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Been using someone's 60% board this week at work and I realize I use the arrow keys and home/end buttons a lot. Was going to get the Ducky One 2 Mini but think I'll go with TKL instead. Of course this would be for gaming at home so I'd probably be typing less stuff but even just using dropdowns is weird without the keys.
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# ? Mar 13, 2019 17:41 |
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clockwork automaton posted:Has anyone tried 3d printing custom keycaps? I looked into the process of molding my own keycaps and honestly I was like I'm in a small apartment I don't really have space let alone the time to do this so I'm considering the 3d printing route. Which honestly I'm terrible at 3d but seems more in my wheelhouse than sculpting.
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# ? Mar 13, 2019 21:14 |
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VostokProgram posted:Anyone have strong opinions on ducky boards? I'm thinking about getting this one in silent reds I recently purchased a ducky one with clears (as per the OP's recommendations I believe) and it is absolutely lightyears ahead of my logitech g810. I don't have the hobbiest experience that most of these others do, and this is only the second mechanical keyboard I've owned, but it's wonderful. I mostly work from home so I've used it quite a bit in the month that I've owned it, and it's been great. My understanding is that not much changed aside from the microUSB connector being changed to USB-C between the ducky one and the ducky one 2 so I'd probably feel the same.
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# ? Mar 13, 2019 21:23 |
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wolrah posted:mewse is right, I've printed a few caps and they look/feel like crap compared to molded, at least without any kind of postprocessing. Alright well now I guess a chunk of my kitchen is going to be keycap molding.
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# ? Mar 13, 2019 23:50 |
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clockwork automaton posted:Has anyone tried 3d printing custom keycaps? I looked into the process of molding my own keycaps and honestly I was like I'm in a small apartment I don't really have space let alone the time to do this so I'm considering the 3d printing route. Which honestly I'm terrible at 3d but seems more in my wheelhouse than sculpting. absolutely complete waste of time and money
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# ? Mar 14, 2019 00:56 |
KingKapalone posted:Been using someone's 60% board this week at work and I realize I use the arrow keys and home/end buttons a lot. Was going to get the Ducky One 2 Mini but think I'll go with TKL instead. Of course this would be for gaming at home so I'd probably be typing less stuff but even just using dropdowns is weird without the keys. This is why I got a 65 for my small board. Keep the arrows, make the shift smaller, and add one extra column of keys
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# ? Mar 14, 2019 09:33 |
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mewse posted:3D printed caps will be super lovely vs commercial injection molding unless you have a resin printer or something. I’ve got a prusa and haven’t even tried This is accurate. Tried FDM printing a DSA keycap and it was hot garbage. First literally, then figuratively. It was so bad I didn't even take pictures, just consigned it to the recycling. However, a member of my hackerspace has a fiendish plan to model an Apple //c keycap and then print a bunch using castable resin in the shop's laser SLA printer, then cast aluminum keycaps, anodize and laser-mark them.
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# ? Mar 14, 2019 12:45 |
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KingKapalone posted:Been using someone's 60% board this week at work and I realize I use the arrow keys and home/end buttons a lot. Was going to get the Ducky One 2 Mini but think I'll go with TKL instead. Of course this would be for gaming at home so I'd probably be typing less stuff but even just using dropdowns is weird without the keys. Some boards like the Anne Pro 2 have the lower right mod keys programmed to act as arrow keys when you tap them, as well as having them on a separate layer. The ducky one 2 just has it on the IJKL keys. I only just learned you can get that Mod Keys arrow functionality in QMK too.
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# ? Mar 14, 2019 13:53 |
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ColHannibal posted:Randomfrankp is a rube. He is, but the Tecware is still really solid for the price.
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 04:08 |
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I've come to the realization that I need some dampeners for my WASD keyboard, like these guys. Given the choice, I'll go for "more dampening". Anyone got a good source for those in Europe/internationally where I don't get assraped on shipping?
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 10:06 |
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bolind posted:I've come to the realization that I need some dampeners for my WASD keyboard, like these guys. Given the choice, I'll go for "more dampening". I don't know where you are but if you've got amazon there's a lot of sellers on international sites. https://www.amazon.de/Keyboard-Junkies-Dampener-EpicGear-H%E4rtegrad/dp/B01M0DRX9R/ There's a bunch of other sellers and brands in related items. They're just rubber o-rings so they're widely available from hardware suppliers for seals, but you'd need to shop around for exact sizing.
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 10:48 |
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Anyone have a suggestion for a 60% base that has a left slide hole/slot for a USB C connector? Picked up a 1up Keyboards HTE PCB (plus a HHKB plate) and the base I picked up does work due to the connector being at the top of the hole and the hole also being too narrow for every USB C cable I've tried.
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 14:42 |
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The Electronaut posted:Anyone have a suggestion for a 60% base that has a left slide hole/slot for a USB C connector? Picked up a 1up Keyboards HTE PCB (plus a HHKB plate) and the base I picked up does work due to the connector being at the top of the hole and the hole also being too narrow for every USB C cable I've tried. Is it plastic? You could just file the opening to be larger
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 14:53 |
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Even if it is metal, as long as you can get the case/base away from the electronics while you enlarge the hole. Plastic wouldn't be as much of an issue, but if it is metal the last thing you want are tiny metal shavings on a board. Small round files aren't that expensive at all, even if they are so cheap they only last long enough to enlarge the hole it would probably be worth it.
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 15:50 |
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mewse posted:Is it plastic? You could just file the opening to be larger Acrylic. I want a finished product, not something I have to fidget fit with.
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 16:56 |
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What are my options for a high quality 65-80% ISO (preferably Nordic) board for the office? Tactile, but not clicky. Double shot or dye sub PBT caps. QMK would be nice, but I can live without it. Back-lighting is completely optional. Price is not a huge priority, but reading that apparently QA on Topre has gotten really bad makes me reluctant to splash out money on that. I guess MX Browns or Clears would suit my needs, but I'd love to hear about new developments as far as switches go. A kit might be interesting as well. So far I've looked at the following, but I don't really know much about how they compare in build quality: Nordic Matias 60% Quiet Click has the arrow keys, but the layout is very non-standard. The Nordic Matias Mini Quiet Pro looks a bit better, but both have laser-etched caps of unknown quality. I'm not sold on the design of the case either. Leopold FC660M PBT looks really nice, but the caps appear to be pad printed which is a shame. Ducky ONE 2 TKL seem to have the right specs, although I wish there was less branding. Varmilo VA88M looks good if I want to go the Cherry route. Vortex RACE3 PBT has an interesting layout, and I like the colors, but I hear the cap sizes are non-standard and would be difficult to replace. Varmilo VA69M looks great in its aluminum case, but hard to get a hold of.
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 17:27 |
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FWIW the Race3 comes with good quality PBT caps and I'm fond of the legends. It hit peak keyboard for me. (I'll still play with my Planck but I don't really need its programmability.) I do appreciate the hardware macro support on the Race3.
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 17:33 |
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teethgrinder posted:FWIW the Race3 comes with good quality PBT caps and I'm fond of the legends. It hit peak keyboard for me. Cheers. I guess if they're good to begin with I'll have no need to replace them...
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 17:49 |
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I think the Tada68 from kbdfans checks all of your boxes. It comes with great PBT dyesub caps and you can even order it custom built with any switches sold on the website for only a few bucks more. The pre-installed firmware is pretty good but you can run QMK if you want too.
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# ? Mar 15, 2019 17:55 |
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internet celebrity posted:I think the Tada68 from kbdfans checks all of your boxes. It comes with great PBT dyesub caps and you can even order it custom built with any switches sold on the website for only a few bucks more. The pre-installed firmware is pretty good but you can run QMK if you want too. It looks pretty cool, but it seems very unclear whether or not the ISO version comes with a plate. The assembly service page says that it does not, and you can only use 5 pin switches as a result, yet the pre-made page says it does come with a steel plate, but still they only allow you to chose 5 pin switches, so which is it? It also does not come with any international/nordic keycaps, and the tada68 keycap sets on sale do not have an international/nordic addon.
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# ? Mar 16, 2019 02:14 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 03:48 |
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sethsez posted:He is, but the Tecware is still really solid for the price. I've used both the brown and blue versions of the Tecware and it is far and away the best under-$50 keyboard I've ever seen. Not even close. No reason to think the red switches won't be just as good for the price. The keycaps are low quality of course, but they're easily replaceable if you're so inclined, the build of the board itself is shockingly solid, the switches are bog standard oetemus (which seem to have improved in the last ~2 years) and it has all the backlighting options you could ever dream of.
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# ? Mar 16, 2019 03:25 |