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My solders are holding! I have one tiny tiny tiny leak in one pex connection.  it is so hard to remove that poo poo. I mean, it makes sense, you want it to be tight, but man it's tough.
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Feb 25, 2019 21:39
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PainterofCrap posted:I'm sticking with my Wet-Vac. I just use a $5 siphon, I mean the toilets are right next to shower/tub so... Got my cursed wall all swapped out. Hopefully it is the last time I have to redo that wall, I was seriously debating putting sliding doors along the bottom this time. 
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Feb 27, 2019 23:12
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*TRIGGERED* This made me flash back to my last house, where a simple stack clog turned into replacing the whole loving thing from above the second story roof all the way through the house to the front yard. Seems like "tradesmen" in the '30's used fly ash as fill around cast iron sewer pipe in the absence of any other available material. This worked out great for just over 80 years until it ate it's way through the cast iron pretty much all at once, necessitating the above mentioned replacement.  This was taken while we were moving out. Looks a lot better, huh? 
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Feb 28, 2019 23:03
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So what pipe materials get used for water supply these days? -copper -cpvc -pex Anything else? Why don't people like cpvc? I know the dis-advantages to it for hot water but it seems perfectly fine for cold water applications. Also does anyone know what gets used in the UK or EU? What about stainless steels? (Maybe they could do something like instrument tubing? Like swagelok?)
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Mar 4, 2019 05:29
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I think you can still used galvanized steel in most applications, it's just a bitch to work with, with very little benefit. I think CPVC is okay for heat as well. As I understand it that's what makes it better than PVC, it can handle heat and pressure. Hot water tank TPR lines are typically CPVC. E: table 605.3 in the IPC contains all materials suitable for water service (although not all are applicatible in all situations). Some materials include polyethylene, ABS plastic, ductile iron pipe, and also stainless like you suggested. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Mar 4, 2019 |
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Mar 4, 2019 05:45
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H110Hawk posted:Oatey Toilet Gel https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Gel-Toilet-Water-Solidifier-For/3695260 Trip report: it works well enough. Turned the water to gel, and the shitter comes off with no mess. However, don't turn the bowl upside down without a plastic sheet down, as the now gelled toilet water comes out with a sploosh and sits like a pile of brains on your new flooring. And then I found the plumber I'd hired earlier had not bothered to remove the damaged wax ring I'd called him out for. He'd simply added another ring and jammed the bowl back down. Nearly a third of the outlet hole was jammed with wax. Fuckwit.
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Mar 4, 2019 06:29
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Senor P. posted:Also does anyone know what gets used in the UK or EU? It came up a while back, and iirc they use something like PEX in new construction, with a lot of these re-usable compression type connectors. At least, in whatever country that guy was asking about. PEX is the poo poo. I guess time will tell but I suspect it will age better than copper does. Even polybutylene pipe seems to hold up very well... It's the connectors that failed. I wonder between the expansion-type, or compression ring type PEX fitting, which would cause material fatigue and fail first?
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Mar 4, 2019 16:50
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My house is old as dirt and has a toilet with a Sloan Flushometer. When I flushed it was dripping a bit at the joint where the supply meets the toilet. I tried loosening the nut that holds it, and while it came loose, the rubber gasket touching the toilet rotated a bit and has apparently broken the seal it had, because now water sprays from the gasket as well during a flush: 1) Do they sell this poo poo at Home Depot? Can't imagine flushometer gaskets are a popular home item, maybe there's something else I can buy to improvise? 2) Am I going to have to unscrew the whole toilet from the floor and flip it over if I want to replace the gasket? Certainly seems like I will. Is this a "call a plumber" kind of job or can I do it if I'm handy? 3) What is that leak prevention paste on the pipe? Seems like it might come in useful later on if I get some.
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Mar 4, 2019 23:32
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Your house has a commercial toilet? That's badass.
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Mar 4, 2019 23:37
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Queen Combat posted:Your house has a commercial toilet? That's badass. Yeah the flush is magnificent, honestly I kind of want to install one in any future house now, I've never once seen it clog, and no tank to start running.
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Mar 5, 2019 00:27
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Zero VGS posted:Yeah the flush is magnificent, honestly I kind of want to install one in any future house now, I've never once seen it clog, and no tank to start running. I was under the impression those wouldn't work on domestic water pressure, but I guess they do.
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Mar 5, 2019 00:43
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Senor P. posted:So what pipe materials get used for water supply these days? Some crusty old plumbers hate on CPVC because they think it gets brittle. However, it's been used in millions of installs with very few issues as long as it's installed correctly and older pipes aren't beat around or exposed to sunlight. The real big downside to it is that the glues require at least 1 hour, and generally more, before they should have pressure. That makes it pretty annoying when you just want to do some quick fixes.
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Mar 5, 2019 01:19
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Zero VGS posted:My house is old as dirt and has a toilet with a Sloan Flushometer. When I flushed it was dripping a bit at the joint where the supply meets the toilet. I tried loosening the nut that holds it, and while it came loose, the rubber gasket touching the toilet rotated a bit and has apparently broken the seal it had, because now water sprays from the gasket as well during a flush: You could probably deal with this if you're handy by getting what you need at a plumbing supply place, but there are a few potential traps that might catch you and make it worth it just to get a plumber. I can't tell for sure exactly how that flange is fitted but you might need a special spud tool. You can sometimes get by without one anyway but both would require more clearance so full toilet removal. That elbow joint also looks like it's probably going to leak and might need new sealing bits besides pipe dope or plumbers puddy, too. You may need to take the parts with you for them to get the right size/match, fyi.
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Mar 5, 2019 01:26
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Motronic posted:I was under the impression those wouldn't work on domestic water pressure, but I guess they do. No I think you're right, I'm just in a really old apartment building and they have these in every residential unit for some reason.
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Mar 5, 2019 02:18
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If you're in an apartment then you should be getting maintenance staff to fix it.
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Mar 5, 2019 04:08
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SpartanIvy posted:If you're in an apartment then you should be getting maintenance staff to fix it. I own the apartment, so they won't fix anything inside the walls; that's my problem.
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Mar 5, 2019 05:54
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Zero VGS posted:My house is old as dirt and has a toilet with a Sloan Flushometer. When I flushed it was dripping a bit at the joint where the supply meets the toilet. I tried loosening the nut that holds it, and while it came loose, the rubber gasket touching the toilet rotated a bit and has apparently broken the seal it had, because now water sprays from the gasket as well during a flush: Unfortunately it does not appear to have threads on the inside...
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Mar 5, 2019 06:01
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Not sure if this is 100% a plumbing issue per se, but it sure seems that way. About a week ago, I ran my dishwasher. I checked it several hours later and found that not only had the dishwasher not drained, but the water was still hot. That’s when I realized that it was draining, then filling back up, then draining, then filling back up. I managed to get it fully drained and left it alone. Lo and behold, the dishwasher fills up and leaks out onto the floor. At this point, I call a repair guy and he eventually ends up replacing the water inlet valve. Makes sense, but I’ve noticed that the dishwasher is still filling up a bit. Now here’s where it gets spooky: the valve under my kitchen sink appears to have been off for some time, at least a few days. The dishwasher was draining when I did the cancel cycle procedure, so where is this water coming from?
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Mar 12, 2019 01:07
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George Zimmer posted:Not sure if this is 100% a plumbing issue per se, but it sure seems that way. The drain for your dishwasher is in its bottom. The hose where it joins your sink drain is a bit higher. It sounds like the drain valve in your dishwasher is leaking and that the water still in the hose is flowing back into the dishwasher.
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Mar 12, 2019 03:36
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kid sinister posted:The drain for your dishwasher is in its bottom. The hose where it joins your sink drain is a bit higher. It sounds like the drain valve in your dishwasher is leaking and that the water still in the hose is flowing back into the dishwasher. I thought it might be something like that, but I ran the drain function until I stopped seeing water drain into my sink. I ran my dishwasher tonight and it’s back to the first problems had - the never ending cycle. I’m starting to think that the water line valve was never actually off (there was some play when I went to turn it off again just a little bit ago) and that my control board is hosed.
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Mar 12, 2019 04:10
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George Zimmer posted:I thought it might be something like that, but I ran the drain function until I stopped seeing water drain into my sink. I ran my dishwasher tonight and it’s back to the first problems had - the never ending cycle. I’m starting to think that the water line valve was never actually off (there was some play when I went to turn it off again just a little bit ago) and that my control board is hosed. You're assuming that the drain pump can pump air. It can't. Eventually the drain pump in your dishwasher will run out of water to pump. There's always some water in the drain pipe from the valve in the bottom of the dishwasher up to the lowest point in your sink's drain pipe. Those are sometimes looped with an air gap.
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Mar 12, 2019 04:31
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kid sinister posted:You're assuming that the drain pump can pump air. It can't. Eventually the drain pump in your dishwasher will run out of water to pump. There's always some water in the drain pipe from the valve in the bottom of the dishwasher up to the lowest point in your sink's drain pipe. Those are sometimes looped with an air gap. Ah, I gotcha. I think I gotta get the repair guy back out here, might be out of my depth. Thanks!
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Mar 12, 2019 11:47
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It’s been raining a ton here in Minneapolis and coupled with a bunch of snow melt it’s creating drainage issues all over the city. I have a floor drain in my basement laundry room that I’ve never actually used before but now there’s clearly water coming up from it that is just below the point where it would break the slope of the drain pan area so there’s no damage but I’m kind of curious what the gently caress is going on. The weird thing is the rest of the house is draining just fine (we ran the washing machine last night which drains into a vent stack right next to the floor drain and a full bath was drained and there was no change to the water level) so I feel like it’s not my mainline drain that’s clogged. This is a house built in ‘57 so pipes are cast iron. There’s a perimeter French drain around half the house that terminates into a sump pit right next to the drain and that’s been pumping out a bunch but the sump pit doesn’t connect to that drain and discharges out into the yard vs the city sewer. Any idea where in the poo poo this water would be coming from?
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Mar 15, 2019 16:10
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That floor drain, most likely, is not connected to anything either - probably terminates out in the yard somewhere, in a buried French drain.
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Mar 15, 2019 16:56
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stupid puma posted:It’s been raining a ton here in Minneapolis and coupled with a bunch of snow melt it’s creating drainage issues all over the city. I have a floor drain in my basement laundry room that I’ve never actually used before but now there’s clearly water coming up from it that is just below the point where it would break the slope of the drain pan area so there’s no damage but I’m kind of curious what the gently caress is going on. The weird thing is the rest of the house is draining just fine (we ran the washing machine last night which drains into a vent stack right next to the floor drain and a full bath was drained and there was no change to the water level) so I feel like it’s not my mainline drain that’s clogged. This is a house built in ‘57 so pipes are cast iron. There’s a perimeter French drain around half the house that terminates into a sump pit right next to the drain and that’s been pumping out a bunch but the sump pit doesn’t connect to that drain and discharges out into the yard vs the city sewer. Any idea where in the poo poo this water would be coming from? You may have a partial clog on a side drain from your main drain line. If your basement is unfinished, how many stacks do you have?
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Mar 15, 2019 17:39
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kid sinister posted:You may have a partial clog on a side drain from your main drain line. If your basement is unfinished, how many stacks do you have? It’s finished but I think I’ve got 3 stacks that extend into the basement. I would think if there was a side drain clog the washing machine would be draining into the same side drain and would have affected the amount of water I was seeing in the floor drain but I didn’t see any change at all in the level last night. I mean I’ve been renovating our house and cleaning all manner of mortar and joint compound off my tools in the shop sink in that laundry room for the past couple of years so there could DEFINITELY be a clog but so far it’s just this one weird drain that is acting weirdly. PainterofCrap posted:That floor drain, most likely, is not connected to anything either - probably terminates out in the yard somewhere, in a buried French drain. This is what I’m starting to think more and more. I have no idea why they wouldn’t have just tied the floor drain to the main line but it was the 50s, so who knows.
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Mar 15, 2019 22:31
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I've got a tub spout with the pull up diverter to send water up to the shower head. Its getting awfully hard to pull up/push down to divert the water to (wherever) and also its leaking when I've got the shower head going so I want to replace it. I know there are two different kinds of spouts, the twist on type and the "set screw type" mine has the set screw. So once I unscrew the screw, is it supposed to slide off? Or does it then also twist off like the other type? I'll assume its been on the shower since the place was built (~10 years or so), therefore I can surmise that it won't come off easily. What sort of steps can I take to remove it without damaging something? I don't think I'd be able to get a torch in there. Do I just wiggle and jerk till it comes (lol) or is there some sort of secret voodoo technique to get the thing to come out? How easy is it to replace with a twist on spout, or should I even bother? Should I be using teflon tape or pipe dope when I replace or are there o-rings/rubber seals that do the sealing?
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Mar 16, 2019 15:52
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wesleywillis posted:I've got a tub spout with the pull up diverter to send water up to the shower head. Its getting awfully hard to pull up/push down to divert the water to (wherever) and also its leaking when I've got the shower head going so I want to replace it. From the videos I saw when I replaced my thread-on type spout, the set screws I all saw you just pulled straight off. You probably just have to put some force behind it, but before you do, you might see if you can find the model online just to verify how it works. I guess worst case you could try spinning it like a thread on type. Whether it's threaded or slip on it will at least break the tension. If you don't have one already, I recommend a strap wrench. They're really good for working on polished hardware without loving it up. If you don't mind loving it up, then I recommend a big gently caress-off pipe wrench, and also a screwdriver stuck up the spout to give you additional rotating leverage.
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Mar 16, 2019 16:15
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SpartanIvy posted:From the videos I saw when I replaced my thread-on type spout, the set screws I all saw you just pulled straight off. You probably just have to put some force behind it, but before you do, you might see if you can find the model online just to verify how it works. I guess worst case you could try spinning it like a thread on type. Whether it's threaded or slip on it will at least break the tension. If you don't have one already, I recommend a strap wrench. They're really good for working on polished hardware without loving it up. If you don't mind loving it up, then I recommend a big gently caress-off pipe wrench, and also a screwdriver stuck up the spout to give you additional rotating leverage. Thanks for the reply, as I suspected it was a bit of a motherfucker to take off. I stripped the set screw head and ended up twisting the spout around, to try and get a better angle on it and managed to strip it even worse. Luckily I had my Canadian Tire Brand dremel "rotary tool" and some cutting discs. Had to cut slots in to the bottom of the spout, bend them back and then slice a straight slot in the screw and ram a flat screw driver in there to get it off. After that I got a grinding wheel out to grind down the burr I made in the copper pipe from twisting the spout around. Installed new one, works sufficiently. Hell yeah.
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Mar 17, 2019 21:54
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I've got a faucet that has sprung a leak. It's coming from the joint in the body I pointed out. It doesn't seem like it's meant to come apart there, but the spout is a bit loose in there. Is there anything I can do about it short of a new faucet?
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Mar 20, 2019 21:54
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Guy Axlerod posted:It's coming from the joint in the body I pointed out. It doesn't seem like it's meant to come apart there, but the spout is a bit loose in there. Is there anything I can do about it short of a new faucet? If you're the owner that installed that faucet (and even if not) call Delta. They have a lifetime warranty on all residential faucets and they should be able to help you. I've used it before, and they just ship me new parts (cartridges, rebuild kits, etc) when I call them.
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Mar 20, 2019 22:05
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Delta said that my current faucet is discontinued, and they could replace it with a different model that looks to be cheaper and only vaguely similar.
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Mar 21, 2019 14:35
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stupid puma posted:It’s finished but I think I’ve got 3 stacks that extend into the basement. I would think if there was a side drain clog the washing machine would be draining into the same side drain and would have affected the amount of water I was seeing in the floor drain but I didn’t see any change at all in the level last night. I mean I’ve been renovating our house and cleaning all manner of mortar and joint compound off my tools in the shop sink in that laundry room for the past couple of years so there could DEFINITELY be a clog but so far it’s just this one weird drain that is acting weirdly.
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Mar 21, 2019 16:21
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I’m trying to replace a faucet, but removing the current one has me stumped. I’ve got every nut I could find loose, but the handle fittings won’t come free from the fitting for the tap. borkencode fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Mar 21, 2019 |
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Mar 21, 2019 18:09
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Do you have a sledgehammer?
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Mar 21, 2019 18:35
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Check to see if the tops of the handles unscrew somehow so you can lower the whole unit down whole. Alternatively, Sawzall
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Mar 21, 2019 18:46
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tyler posted:Do you have a sledgehammer? Yes, it was being considered. SpartanIvy posted:Check to see if the tops of the handles unscrew somehow so you can lower the whole unit down whole. Alternatively, Sawzall Yeah the handles are completely off, the tap is still on though. I can turn it left or right 90 degrees, but that's the extent. I have the feeling the whole thing was put together on the counter before being put on the cabinets.
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Mar 21, 2019 19:37
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Motronic posted:I was under the impression those wouldn't work on domestic water pressure, but I guess they do. PainterofCrap posted:That floor drain, most likely, is not connected to anything either - probably terminates out in the yard somewhere, in a buried French drain. stupid puma posted:This is what I’m starting to think more and more. I have no idea why they wouldn’t have just tied the floor drain to the main line but it was the 50s, so who knows. Guy Axlerod posted:Delta said that my current faucet is discontinued, and they could replace it with a different model that looks to be cheaper and only vaguely similar. borkencode posted:I’m trying to replace a faucet, but removing the current one has me stumped.
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Mar 21, 2019 21:44
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borkencode posted:I’m trying to replace a faucet, but removing the current one has me stumped. Got a basin wrench? Look at the next part of either valve on the flange up against the sink. See the hex facets? Get twisting.
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Mar 22, 2019 00:08
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kid sinister posted:Got a basin wrench? Look at the next part of either valve on the flange up against the sink. See the hex facets? Get twisting. Yeah, those are already done. They're sitting 1/4 inch or so below the counter, so is the big washer in the center. The thing reminds me of one of those wooden puzzles that you can't move any of the pieces until you move the one secret piece, except made out of brass and copper. Edit: Just went in, said "gently caress it" and pulled really hard on it. Success! borkencode fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Mar 22, 2019 |
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Mar 22, 2019 01:07
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