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https://www.cpsproducts.com/product-details/550000/ I got to see one of these in action the other day and its magical. Hook it up to compressed air, let it pull a vacuum, then stick a hose into a bottle of coolant and the system bleeds itself. It did in 5 minutes what took me an hour and a screw on no spill funnel.
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# ? Feb 20, 2019 17:32 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 19:01 |
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Elmnt80 posted:https://www.cpsproducts.com/product-details/550000/ The shop I used to work at had a thing that worked on the same concept as this, except it was configured as 3 tall round clear tanks on wheels, with the air fitting on the top. It was supposedly not a corporate-approved tool. With the engine running, you would suck all the coolant out of the car's system till you see the upper/lower hoses collapse, and then allow new coolant from another tank to get sucked right back into the car under the vacuum. No air ever being involved, you don't have to burp anything. A coolant flush paid an hour, and it took less than 10 minutes with that tool.
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# ? Feb 20, 2019 17:49 |
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0toShifty posted:The shop I used to work at had a thing that worked on the same concept as this, except it was configured as 3 tall round clear tanks on wheels, with the air fitting on the top. It was supposedly not a corporate-approved tool. With the engine running, you would suck all the coolant out of the car's system till you see the upper/lower hoses collapse, and then allow new coolant from another tank to get sucked right back into the car under the vacuum. No air ever being involved, you don't have to burp anything. A coolant flush paid an hour, and it took less than 10 minutes with that tool. Elmnt80 posted:https://www.cpsproducts.com/product-details/550000/ Thanks for reminding me that these exist. I forgot that I bought one when I started the Z4M project and as it happens now is a nearly perfect time for me to remember I had it!
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# ? Feb 20, 2019 18:21 |
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stevobob posted:On soldering chat, I have a couple of crappy soldering irons here at home but at work I regularly use a Pace PRC-2000 and it makes soldering easy. Equipment absolutely makes a difference, It also has hot air, extraction, tweezers, interchangable tips, three individually adjustable heat channels and a ton of other poo poo I've never played with. Spend the money, it's worth it. Best I can figure it's like welding, you can weld with a $200 Princess Auto/Harbor Freight welder but if you spend more you'll have a much easier time making much higher quality work.
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# ? Feb 20, 2019 18:38 |
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HandlingByJebus posted:
Please take video. It was awesome to watch.
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# ? Feb 21, 2019 07:23 |
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I just got a Mityvac oil extractor and let me tell you, that thing rules. I've already used it to do two oil changes, swap coolant, and pull gas out of my motorcycle tank for removal. Worth the cash.
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# ? Feb 23, 2019 00:59 |
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revmoo posted:I just got a Mityvac oil extractor and let me tell you, that thing rules. I've already used it to do two oil changes, swap coolant, and pull gas out of my motorcycle tank for removal. Worth the cash. Do you know.... if you can pull out transmission fluid through the transmission dipstick? My trans pan has no drain port. If I could pull as much fluid as possible before dropping the pan, that would save making a huge mess!
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# ? Feb 23, 2019 20:27 |
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kalvick posted:Do you know.... if you can pull out transmission fluid through the transmission dipstick? My trans pan has no drain port. If I could pull as much fluid as possible before dropping the pan, that would save making a huge mess! You can. Vacuum / pressure fluid transfer is the best.
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# ? Feb 23, 2019 20:46 |
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Even better, because you aren't getting your arm doused in ATF, you can start the process from a completely hot engine and it will pull the fluid faster because of it.
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# ? Feb 23, 2019 21:01 |
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nice, just added one to my Amazon wish list to use this spring.
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# ? Feb 23, 2019 21:53 |
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It always amazed me that Automatics never came with drain plugs. It wasn't until recently, (last couple decades) that they started having "lifetime" oil (heh, yeah right). I'd bet if they came with drains, the oil in them would actually get changed more just due to the slightly less chance for mess.
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# ? Feb 23, 2019 22:55 |
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stevobob posted:On soldering chat, I have a couple of crappy soldering irons here at home but at work I regularly use a Pace PRC-2000 and it makes soldering easy. Equipment absolutely makes a difference, It also has hot air, extraction, tweezers, interchangable tips, three individually adjustable heat channels and a ton of other poo poo I've never played with. Spend the money, it's worth it. Best I can figure it's like welding, you can weld with a $200 Princess Auto/Harbor Freight welder but if you spend more you'll have a much easier time making much higher quality work. I am going to jump on the Pace bandwagon, too. The ADS-200 is really good for the price, for $250 you can pick up the station and a few tips. https://www.tequipment.net/Pace/ADS200-8007-0578/Soldering-Stations/?OrderItemId=5438829 Mostly I love the 120W monster tips, like this 1/4" inch chisel. I think they also have a 3/8. https://www.tequipment.net/Pace/1131-0055-P1/Tips/?rrec=true And for finer stuff, it can run much smaller tips, but they have a smaller heater. Small is still like 67W https://www.tequipment.net/Pace/1130-0003-P1/Tips/?b=y&v=126323 I also have some of the hoof looking wave solder tips, but I haven't really used them.
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# ? Feb 23, 2019 22:57 |
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wesleywillis posted:It always amazed me that Automatics never came with drain plugs. It wasn't until recently, (last couple decades) that they started having "lifetime" oil (heh, yeah right). Aren't you supposed to do the filter when you change the fluid? Although I guess having people change just the fluid is better than changing neither because it sucks to do.
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# ? Feb 23, 2019 23:18 |
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It really depends on the automatic. Toyotas might not have a dipstick but they do have a drain bolt and a fill level check bolt. Lots of others have gone this way. Some don’t even use a real filter anymore, its just something that looks like a filter with a screen in it.
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# ? Feb 23, 2019 23:24 |
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Raluek posted:Aren't you supposed to do the filter when you change the fluid? You are on most, but it still sucks taint to have to drop a pan full of fluid to do it. I added a Dorman pan with a drain plug to my WJ - I change the filters every other fluid change, since I'm already doing those changes on the super-aggressive schedule and the fluid looks practically as red coming out as it did going in. My Honda, they actually give you a proper loving drain plug, and there is no easy-to-change internal filter. The external filter is technically a lifetime part but it's cheap and easy to get at. It's also the only transmission I've ever had where the drain / refill on a service is a whole number of quarts and doesn't seem to vary - 3qt out, 3qt in, every time.
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# ? Feb 23, 2019 23:40 |
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Raluek posted:Aren't you supposed to do the filter when you change the fluid? Yeah, but its nice to drain hot transmission oil before dropping the pan
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# ? Feb 23, 2019 23:41 |
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My Toyotas have all had drain plugs on their automatic pans. And a dip stick to check the level.
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# ? Feb 24, 2019 04:39 |
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All of my toyotas did not.
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# ? Feb 24, 2019 08:01 |
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For what it's worth - this worked surprisingly well at reducing the compressor drain on my new Kobalt 26 gallon from painful to just loud.
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# ? Feb 25, 2019 03:22 |
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Terrible Robot posted:My Toyotas have all had drain plugs on their automatic pans. And a dip stick to check the level. Old Volvos (but not really old Volvos) have drain plugs. They were added on the AW70 around 1983 or so. It is the same basic Aisin transmission used on all kids of things from the 60s Toyota Crown to cars as new as an 04 Miata. Hondas (non-CVT ones) had a really nice, easy to access magnetic drain plug that took a 3/8" drive. Too bad the transmissions they're installed on tend to be somewhat temperamental and relatively fragile.
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# ? Feb 26, 2019 03:22 |
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Any one got a lead on a good starter welder?
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# ? Mar 9, 2019 00:55 |
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wargames posted:Any one got a lead on a good starter welder? Look at the Lincoln 140c. It's cheaper than a miller and just as reliable. Don't get one that just has a couple settings for voltage or wire speed.
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# ? Mar 9, 2019 02:47 |
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Any recommendations on work boots? I'm going to have a pretty stiff ankle from now on due to surgery and they've recommended getting some boots for work (around the house, in the garage, and some on the job too). I figure this is a good chance to get something that'll be good to do some work in and last, but I don't really have a clue, so I'm open to any recommendations. I don't have to have a steel toe, but something sturdy would be good. I'm near a couple Red Wing stores, so I think I'll stop in and try on a couple, though those would definitely have to be worth the premium.
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# ? Mar 19, 2019 02:43 |
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Red Wings are great--they're expensive but built to last. You could get 10 years out of a pair and they'd only look better with age and patina of use. Danner makes some great boots too that range from industrial to military/law enforcement to casual styles.
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# ? Mar 19, 2019 02:48 |
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I get about 1.5 years out of my Red Wings until they start cracking and falling apart, but yeah they're a decent product. Definitely take advantage of their local store to get fitted and try on a lot of boots. Some of the guys at work end up with back problems from the limited selection we're given, so I guess bear in mind whether you've ever had boots with a real heel and shank before, if you get some with that. They also have some (expensive as gently caress) insoles that can be helpful. Hands down the two most comfortable pair I ever had were both Georgia Boots.
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# ? Mar 19, 2019 03:35 |
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I was going to say it heavily depends on the work you'll be doing. My only recommendation is to avoid the waterproof stuff if you won't actually get them wet. They get hot and sweaty as all hell in the summer because they don't breathe. I do manufacturing work so I didn't need them. I specifically have a pair of Irish Setter Rockford 4 and while very very comfortable, they get very warm. Not the type of boot you're looking for, but they're top notch quality.
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# ? Mar 19, 2019 03:58 |
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I decided to go with Keen Pittsburgh steel toed boots recently, for when I find myself working on ships. I also have a lovely ankle that's been put back together with surgery too many times, and I find the Keens are supportive enough that I don't hate myself after a day on my feet. The insole is also really nice, much better than the Redwing classic boots I had some years ago. Keen makes work boots that aren't safety toed, if that's not a requirement of yours. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LE7XHY
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# ? Mar 19, 2019 04:12 |
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nitsuga posted:Any recommendations on work boots? I'm going to have a pretty stiff ankle from now on due to surgery and they've recommended getting some boots for work (around the house, in the garage, and some on the job too). I figure this is a good chance to get something that'll be good to do some work in and last, but I don't really have a clue, so I'm open to any recommendations. I don't have to have a steel toe, but something sturdy would be good. I'm a big fan of Wolverine branded workboots, particularly the Raider model is my favorite but I've had a few different ones over the years. If you have a Sears nearby that hasn't gone out of business, they usually have tons of them in stock to go in and easily try out. I find them very comfortable, nice non-slip soles, pretty cheap when it comes to workboots, they last me a year or more easily and they actually look pretty decent as well, in case you need to go out to dinner after work or something.
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# ? Mar 19, 2019 08:52 |
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I'll second Georgias.
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# ? Mar 19, 2019 13:59 |
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Whatever fits best and lasts a while. I'm a Redwing guy, but their boots vary widely in size and shape. There's exactly one style that fits me, the 2226. It's discontinued, so I'm on the search for a new boot. I literally sat down and tried on every 6" safety toe boot in the store, and nothing fit correctly (I've got very small ankles). I would avoid cheap boots though. You'll regret buying them, they'll only last a year tops, and you'll likely have back/knee/ankle pain long before then. Invest in good insoles too, the Redwing heat-moldable ones changed my life. Like my father said: don't cheap out on the things between you and the ground; tires, mattresses, and shoes.
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# ? Mar 19, 2019 14:53 |
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And your mom? Don't B mad. I'm stealing your dad's quip.
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# ? Mar 19, 2019 18:03 |
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sharkytm posted:I would avoid cheap boots though. You'll regret buying them, they'll only last a year tops, and you'll likely have back/knee/ankle pain long before then. Any time someone talks about cheap boots on the internet: "Take boots, for example. He earned thirty-eight dollars a month plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. Those were the kind of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in Ankh-Morpork on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles. But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten years' time, while the poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and he would still have wet feet. This was the Captain Samuel Vimes 'Boots' theory of socioeconomic unfairness.” -Terry Pratchett, "Men at Arms"
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# ? Mar 19, 2019 18:40 |
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Safety Dance posted:I decided to go with Keen Pittsburgh steel toed boots recently, for when I find myself working on ships. I also have a lovely ankle that's been put back together with surgery too many times, and I find the Keens are supportive enough that I don't hate myself after a day on my feet. The insole is also really nice, much better than the Redwing classic boots I had some years ago. Keen makes work boots that aren't safety toed, if that's not a requirement of yours. Seconding this. Don't get lovely steel toed workboots, get comfortable steel toed hiking boots.
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# ? Mar 19, 2019 20:49 |
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I like the red wings I got from my work voucher, but I would only get them if I had direct access to get fitted properly. They're heavy duty, even the lighter ones, and heavy, but they're comfortable for working on your feet all day.
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# ? Mar 19, 2019 21:26 |
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Speaking as someone that wears work boots 8-10 hours a day, there are other materials that are either composite or ceramic that have the same certs as "steel toe" (for CSA) at least but way lighter and more comfortable. My work boots don't weigh terribly much more than my runners.
slidebite fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Mar 20, 2019 |
# ? Mar 20, 2019 01:13 |
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Thanks everybody! Looks like I’ll be out looking for something this weekend. If I travel a bit I should be able to try on Keens and Danners as well as the Red Wings. Pretty exciting, I’ve always gone the cheap boot route, so I think I’m ready to try something different.
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# ? Mar 20, 2019 02:34 |
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nitsuga posted:Thanks everybody! Looks like I’ll be out looking for something this weekend. If I travel a bit I should be able to try on Keens and Danners as well as the Red Wings. Pretty exciting, I’ve always gone the cheap boot route, so I think I’m ready to try something different. I get about 2 years per pair of Carolina boots, and I work in industrial settings. I don't recommend the logger boots unless you spend a lot of time on ladders.
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# ? Mar 20, 2019 03:32 |
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This might sound like I graduated in the Industrial Revolution but when I started my first job my dad bought me a nice pair of Red Wing boots. They made it quite a few years before they broke down, smooth soled and cracked. I got a replacement pair that I still use occasionally. I've moved off the jobsites so it's hard to justify but I'd like a new pair, probably some Irish Setters. They're worth it, get a pair that fits right and take care of them. My first pair dried up from months of mud and me not oiling them back up. It's good your taking the time to try a lot of brands.
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# ? Mar 20, 2019 04:31 |
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Mine lasted about two years of daily salt water and anti skid deck abuse. These days, I get about three years out of them. The secret to making them last is to clean and oil them monthly, and put them on a boot dryer.
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# ? Mar 20, 2019 04:54 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 19:01 |
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I bought a pair of Irish setters once and they were the most comfortable boot I ever wore. They had a 1 piece rubber sole I didn't feeel like replacing for $100 every year though. Next I bought a pair of Worx from red wing, it's their budget brand. They're comfortable but I'm an idiot and got a rubber soled one, that wore out quick. The toe also wore out super fast from using my hand truck. I was walking about 8+ miles a day at work with these two pairs according to my phones pedometer. Last week I bought a pair of boots made by Jesse James the bike builder on a whim, during a sale. $83 shipped and they're very impressive so far, and better looking than both of the other pairs. Looks like they can be resoled as well.
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# ? Mar 20, 2019 15:16 |