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If you are in San Diego, as your profile suggests, then call Goodwin Racing
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Mar 18, 2019 22:08
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| # ? May 21, 2024 01:07 |
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Do we have an insurance thread? I can't help the feeling that I'm getting screwed.
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Mar 20, 2019 05:45
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You are.
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Mar 20, 2019 06:31
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I recently got my oil changed at a Jiffy Lube and they told me my front brakes (disc) looked like they're getting near the end of their life. They quoted $225 for the brake job plus like $20 for a fluid flush. I called my regular mechanic who estimated $325 and another nearby who people seem to trust and their estimate was $350. What are the mom & pop places doing differently (presumably better) to have a higher cost? This is a 2011 Chevy Cruze, fwiw.
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Mar 20, 2019 18:28
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Jiffy lube is doing brakes now? Jesus don't actually have them do it, most quick lube places are barely competent enough to change oil without loving anything up in the process. Realistically jiffy lube is cheaper because their techs are probably being paid a few dollars above minimum wage, while the mom and pop shops likely employ actual mechanics with higher wages. Plus they don't need to make as high of a margin on individual jobs, they can make it up on volume.
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Mar 20, 2019 18:36
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Thanks, that's pretty much what I was expecting. And I wasn't going to have it done at Jiffy Lube for sure. Follow-up question: how can I tell when it's time to have the brakes changed? hooah fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Mar 20, 2019 |
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Mar 20, 2019 18:50
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hooah posted:Thanks, that's pretty much what I was expecting. And I wasn't going to have it done at Jiffy Lube for sure. A lot of places will do a free brake inspection where they will provide the pad thickness remaining. If you do this, make sure to ask for the actual measurements. some give you the measurements in MM, and some in 32nds of an inch. A brand new brake pad is around 12-14mm thick, or about 16/32" to 18/32" Most places will recommend pad replacement at 3mm or 3/32 left. State inspection in Pennsylvania fails the brake pads at 2/32" Note that that pads don't always wear down evenly, especially if they have poor lubrication or there are other problems. Go by the smallest measurement on the pad.
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Mar 20, 2019 19:12
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Usually the first indication of worn out brakes is some kind of scraping or grinding noise when the pad friction material wears out and the metal backing plate comes in contact with the rotor. Some pads have a little metal finger that is designed to touch the rotor ahead of this happening and cause a similar noise. To inspect your pads you'll need to lift and support the vehicle (need jack & jackstands), then remove the wheel. There's usually (but not always) a slot in the top of the brake caliper for visual inspection of the pads. If not you'll have to remove the caliper. Check the inside pad, if there's an eighth inch or less of pad remaining I'd start planning on replacing the brakes in the near future (next thousand or two miles.) Google your car make/model/year for "rotor runout spec", this will be the minimum thickness of the rotor remaining for optimal braking performance. If it's been scraped, scored or has pad material stuck to it the rotor will need to be replaced as well.
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Mar 20, 2019 19:25
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Heres a stupid question for you guys: On a modern vehicle (2012 honda pilot), is there a safe and easy way to siphon/extract gasoline from the tank? I attend a large music festival every year and bring along a 2KW inverter generator for fans and lights and charging poo poo. Normally I carry a 5 gallon gas can but it seems every year festival security gets a bit more leery about having gallons of gas laying around a bunch of drunk lunatics. Ideally I could pull gas from the SUV which would be safer and save me some cargo space but I dont know how realistic this idea is or if its a recipe for disaster. E: something something rollover valve seems to be the culprit nowadays cr0y fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Mar 20, 2019 |
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Mar 20, 2019 20:04
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Most new stuff I've been into has some sort of anti-siphon screen, so it's unlikely to work. Plus now you're dealing with a (battery?) fuel transfer pump and 20 gallons of fuel.
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Mar 20, 2019 20:09
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Motronic posted:Most new stuff I've been into has some sort of anti-siphon screen, so it's unlikely to work. Plus now you're dealing with a (battery?) fuel transfer pump and 20 gallons of fuel. This was my thought as well, but if i could deal with the screen/block I could use one of those squeezeball pumps, i only need a gallon at a time.
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Mar 20, 2019 20:13
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Just got an oil change and tire rotation and the rear breaks on my 2014 Mazda 3 need to be changed. I've done work myself on a 93 Honda Civic, changed out brake lines but never the breaks themselves. Is this something I can reasonably expect to do myself ( I have Jack stands and a random assortment of tools) or is paying 225 what I should go ahead and do?
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Mar 21, 2019 00:57
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Brakes are stupid simple. Just about the easiest maintenance to perform after an oil change. It's basically "remove wheel > unbolt & remove caliper > unbolt & remove caliper carrier > remove & replace rotor > reverse steps 1-3 replacing the pads and retracting the caliper pistons." If you want to be really on top of things, crack the bleeders when retracting the caliper pistons to extract the old fluid being pushed out of the calipers and refill the reservoir.
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Mar 21, 2019 01:07
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Dunno if Mazda still does it but my 08 needed a special tool to retract the rear pistons, you can't just press them in, they needed to rotate too. Look it up on YouTube to get a feel for it. And it's brakes.
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Mar 21, 2019 01:07
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opengl128 posted:Dunno if Mazda still does it but my 08 needed a special tool to retract the rear pistons, you can't just press them in, they needed to rotate too. Look it up on YouTube to get a feel for it. Yeah you still need the fancy tool. Apparently you can use needle nose pliers if you don't want to buy the tool, but I don't know how much harder it would be.
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Mar 21, 2019 01:11
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Geoj posted:retracting the caliper pistons. There's the hard part, especially when they're rear brakes that you have to turn back in with the stupid little cube tool. Then there's drum brakes...
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Mar 21, 2019 01:17
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Just borrow the disc pucks/spreader from autozone/advance auto. If rear rotors have a drum brake parking mechanism inside the rotor hat no need to rotate the caliper piston. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Mar 21, 2019 |
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Mar 21, 2019 01:34
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C-Bangin' it 
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2014 Mazda 3 should have rear disc with a caliper parking brake.
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Mar 21, 2019 01:58
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Geoj posted:2014 Mazda 3 should have rear disc with a caliper parking brake. I appreciate all the info, and plan on doing this myself. I'm clearly a little unfamiliar with this stuff, what's the importance of this?
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Mar 21, 2019 02:12
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TL;DR it's the easiest of the possible combinations for rear brakes. Drums contain a convoluted mixture of springs, rods and cables that are a major pain in the rear end to get set up right. Your rear brakes will mostly be a simple bolt off/bolt on operation.
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Mar 21, 2019 04:07
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Geoj posted:TL;DR it's the easiest of the possible combinations for rear brakes. Ooh that's great. Thanks!
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Mar 21, 2019 04:15
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Spikes32 posted:Ooh that's great. Thanks! The hardest part will be what was already mentioned above - with a caliper based parking brake, you probably need to rotate the piston on the rear caliper to help compress it, instead of just cranking down with a clamp. It's not awful with the right tools.
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Mar 21, 2019 04:39
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I've searched around a bit in both here and DIY, but is there a lawnmower thread anywhere? I'd like to get recommendations on what to buy - should I just post in this thread, or make a new thread here, or would you suggest a different subforum?
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Mar 21, 2019 16:58
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Is there any reason not to "bench" bleed a master cylinder while it's installed in the car and just use the brake pedal to actuate it?
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Mar 21, 2019 17:01
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Kibbles n Shits posted:Is there any reason not to "bench" bleed a master cylinder while it's installed in the car and just use the brake pedal to actuate it? As long as you have sufficient access that should work fine. I've definitely done exactly that before with good results.
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Mar 21, 2019 17:15
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Spikes32 posted:Just got an oil change and tire rotation and the rear breaks on my 2014 Mazda 3 need to be changed. I've done work myself on a 93 Honda Civic, changed out brake lines but never the breaks themselves. Is this something I can reasonably expect to do myself ( I have Jack stands and a random assortment of tools) or is paying 225 what I should go ahead and do? Don't use needle nose pliers to retract the piston in to the caliper. I've seen it done before and I wanted to kill myself, and I was just watching someone else do it. Buy one of these tools: https://www.tenaquip.com/product/gearwrench-disc-brake-piston-tool3163d-tgz791?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxOmtxeaT4QIVwlYNCh0VEQZ2EAQYAyABEgKS1PD_BwE They should be available at just about any parts store. The square holes should fit a ratchet wrench extension. the one I have fits a 3/8" drive. Fit a 1/4" drive drill adaptor in to that, and chuck the whole thing up in to a cordless drill. Set the clutch on a low setting, and the gearbox on low speed. Turn it slowly in the appropriate direction to retract the piston (I think thats counter clockwise on my car, but yours might be different). Spin slowly so that if you catch the rubber dust boot, you can stop turning before you rip it. If it does catch, un twist it, and maybe put a dab of brake lube between it ant the piston.
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Mar 21, 2019 19:06
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wesleywillis posted:Don't use needle nose pliers to retract the piston in to the caliper. I've seen it done before and I wanted to kill myself, and I was just watching someone else do it. Thank you! I'll probably be working on this next weekend and will have more questions I'm sure.
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Mar 21, 2019 19:09
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Caveat: I've always done the pliers thing, and never used either. I think this one looks more appealing to me - does the same thing, but doesn't have the potential to tear the caliper boot, as some reviews on Amazon say that cube tool does.
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Mar 21, 2019 19:28
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Just borrow a proper tool from the auto parts store.
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Mar 21, 2019 19:34
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Uthor posted:Just borrow a proper tool from the auto parts store. This is what I'll be doing.
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Mar 21, 2019 21:44
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Geoj posted:Brakes are stupid simple. Just about the easiest maintenance to perform after an oil change. I'm sure it is, but as with my oil, it's cheaper in the sense of my own time to have someone else do it, especially since I don't have the requisite tools (jack, jack stand) nor a very good place to do the work. If I were still in the service and could use the base's auto shop, I'd definitely take a crack at doing it myself.
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Mar 21, 2019 22:11
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KakerMix posted:What's the chassis code for your Estima? Punch it in here: Nothing found for either my frame number or VIN, unfortunately. My fuses and relays look like this: http://i65.tinypic.com/9q9ohe.jpg But according to the inside of the lid, it should instead look like this: http://i63.tinypic.com/4t0qxy.jpg What I'm guessing has happened is that the fuse box cover is off a different model with the same engine. Like there's no 7.5A up in the top left corner, but there is a 7.5A next to the two "Spare" slots. Still that huge gap on the left and the fact that there are fewer relays than the box lid says there should be has me slightly concerned. Next time I get a chance I think I'm going to do an emergency stop, check I have ABS Also, does anyone know where to look for what the diagram's referencing here, so I can do the shift test? https://www.justanswer.com/uploads/advautoca/2008-11-22_193550_MANUAL_SHIFT_TEST.pdf simplefish fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Mar 21, 2019 |
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Mar 21, 2019 23:28
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Son of Sam-I-Am posted:I've searched around a bit in both here and DIY, but is there a lawnmower thread anywhere? I'd like to get recommendations on what to buy - should I just post in this thread, or make a new thread here, or would you suggest a different subforum? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3302145&pagenumber=45&perpage=40 That thread always dies back around winter time except for the odd snowblower post. There's somewhat the Tools thread over in DIY. They've been talking about electric string trimmers lately. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Mar 22, 2019 |
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Mar 22, 2019 00:00
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cr0y posted:This was my thought as well, but if i could deal with the screen/block I could use one of those squeezeball pumps, i only need a gallon at a time. There's also a ball in a cage at the fill neck on the tank itself, to prevent leakage during a rollover. There is no way you're getting a siphon tube down into the wet. I just replaced a leaky gas tank on my son's '01 Accord. The only way I was able to empty the tank was to pull the sending unit/fuel pump assembly through the access panel in the trunk floor and risk my life wih a $9 Harbor Freight battery-operated siphon pump. It worked like a charm, but there's no loving way I'd do it again. Pity because pre-1997, many Hondas had a drain tap on the bottom of the tank. My only wild-rear end suggestion would be to rig something that connects to the fuel feed on the rail under the hood, that you can crank the engine & feed a line from the fuel feed into a gas can. Even so, that still means bringing a gas can into the event, and they're safer full than they are empty. Will they maybe be a little less paranoid about a gas can for an outboard motor?
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Mar 22, 2019 00:56
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PainterofCrap posted:Will they maybe be a little less paranoid about a gas can for an outboard motor? Or factory sealed fuel like TruFuel or the like?
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Mar 22, 2019 01:17
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How do they know you have gas cans? Are they nosing through vehicles on entry or something? Seems like "just shove it under something else in the trunk or something so they leave you alone" is the answer here. What officious pricks don't know won't hurt them.
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Mar 22, 2019 01:28
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I got myself an 07 4runner and ive been trying to find a couple plastic trim pieces without much luck, specifically these two pieces: The only ones I have found are ridiculously expensive, like from $350 to $700, which seems crazy when the whole rear bumper cover cost about 100. I'm not really sure where to look though, or really even the right terms to search for, and if that really is the best price I can expect. Trying to search for some used ones doesn't seem to bring up anything either so a bump in the right direction would be awesome.
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Mar 22, 2019 01:43
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Long Francesco posted:I got myself an 07 4runner and ive been trying to find a couple plastic trim pieces without much luck, specifically these two pieces: Are you aware of the junkyard search engine? http://www.car-part.com/ It's not gonna get everything because not everyone participates, but it's a good start.
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Mar 22, 2019 01:47
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Thanks! I cant seem to get any results on that but going from that I found one for $300, so thats a start I guess.
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Mar 22, 2019 02:07
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| # ? May 21, 2024 01:07 |
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The piece you’re looking for is a lower cladding. 75741-35130-E0 is the right rear door cladding I believe. 75653-35100-E0 is for the quarter panel. Not sure what color that 4Runner is exactly but both of those parts are for bronze. I’m on mobile so it’s a little harder to verify.
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Mar 22, 2019 02:27
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