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It's been bugging me that the only gauge not working on my brand new cluster was the oil pressure gauge. Figured it was an issue with the sender so I decided to take a look. Blue wire is the sender wire.  Who the hell wiried this piece of poo poo? Oh right... me.  That's better.
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Mar 15, 2019 22:14
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| # ? May 23, 2024 23:58 |
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As I do when we get new vehicles in I'm poking around our 93 HiAce ~Super Custom Limited~ and just generally getting a feel for it and its faults. Most of the dome lights (of which there are at least 9) weren't working. Putzin' around and I got them all working and found that the passenger side door sensor needs to be replaced. I also found this: The main rear passenger area dome light is a goddamned florescent tube. At least it still works!
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Mar 16, 2019 01:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:Did your folks drive it up from the Bahamas? You're kidding.
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Mar 16, 2019 02:26
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KakerMix posted:
Honestly, that'll probably be the easiest part to find. Probably a G24 or similar bulb.
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Mar 16, 2019 08:12
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clam ache posted:You're kidding. He must be, the Bahamas are islands!
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Mar 16, 2019 09:11
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Took the FoST to the local drag strip (Capitol Raceway in Crofton, MD) for some datalogging. Pretty intimidating considering everyone else there, I was the only FWD car, but it was mostly fine since I wasn't caring about quarter mile times, just data. Glad I got it done, I got 10 good logs for my tuner. Can't wait to get back the update.
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Mar 16, 2019 20:50
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Sitting in a waiting room while someone else changes my oil. Pretty sure this is the first time I have ever done this. Not have a garage is butts.
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Mar 16, 2019 23:06
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Watching the oil pressure at cold idle go from 65-70 to 20...
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Mar 17, 2019 00:06
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Night Danger Moose posted:Took the FoST to the local drag strip (Capitol Raceway in Crofton, MD) for some datalogging. Pretty intimidating considering everyone else there, I was the only FWD car, but it was mostly fine since I wasn't caring about quarter mile times, just data. Glad I got it done, I got 10 good logs for my tuner. Can't wait to get back the update. What mods do you have for your car?
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Mar 17, 2019 16:42
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Wrar posted:What mods do you have for your car? Intake, rear motor mount, intercooler, symposer delete, recirculation valve, high-flow catted downpipe, cat-back exhaust - just full bolt-on. It's my daily (and only) driver so I don't really have plans for big turbo, fuel mods (aux/meth/etc), plus those are kinda out of my price range at the moment. I've had the current tune since November-ish and haven't had the opportunity or weather to really get some good logging done.
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Mar 17, 2019 16:50
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Night Danger Moose posted:Intake, rear motor mount, intercooler, symposer delete, recirculation valve, high-flow catted downpipe, cat-back exhaust - just full bolt-on. It's my daily (and only) driver so I don't really have plans for big turbo, fuel mods (aux/meth/etc), plus those are kinda out of my price range at the moment. I've had the current tune since November-ish and haven't had the opportunity or weather to really get some good logging done. how does the recirc valve sound? like comparative to stock?
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Mar 17, 2019 17:00
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sneakyfrog posted:how does the recirc valve sound? like comparative to stock? You can definitely hear the turbo better, without the annoying extra sound of a blowoff valve. I'm glad I got it, especially since the stock bypass valve is really flimsy.
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Mar 17, 2019 18:42
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Well, replacing the RX7 clutch by taking the engine out to get access seemed to go pretty well. I feel a lot more pedal resistance now so I think the old pressure plate wasn't... pressure..y... enough.
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Mar 18, 2019 03:15
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clutchpuck posted:Well, replacing the RX7 clutch by taking the engine out to get access seemed to go pretty well. I feel a lot more pedal resistance now so I think the old pressure plate wasn't... pressure..y... enough. Fairly common way for pressure plates to fail. Springs get detempered (is that a word?) when they get heated, so when a clutch is failing and gets really hot it also damages the pressure plate.
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Mar 18, 2019 13:12
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Makes sense... this is a basket case car and I bought most of it when I could only afford used/free pieces. So it was like "well this clutch stuff is free, if it works, cool".
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Mar 18, 2019 18:26
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Installed a short shifter, poly shifter bushings, new shift boot and new shift knob this weekend on the civic. Also stuck in a few more side skirt fasteners.
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Mar 18, 2019 18:41
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Prepping for big aero? FMIC? Nah, changed a hood cable and latches.   Also started re-assembly on the racecar motor. 
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Mar 18, 2019 22:46
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IOwnCalculus posted:Did your folks drive it up from the Bahamas? clam ache posted:You're kidding. driguy posted:He must be, the Bahamas are islands! I am incensed that I was too late to participate in this, but I'm proud of you guys for taking up the slack. clutchpuck posted:Well, replacing the RX7 clutch by taking the engine out to get access seemed to go pretty well. I feel a lot more pedal resistance now so I think the old pressure plate wasn't... pressure..y... enough. Excellent username/post combo. I replaced the EGR valve on my Crown Vic so I could inspect it so I could renew registration. It went well. Old:  New:  Obligatory:  Drove around for about 20 minutes and all monitors (even evap!) set. Inspected it the next morning. All good.
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Mar 18, 2019 23:36
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Heard a rhythmic thumping while braking on the way home from work, pulled the wheel and caliper not really expecting to immediately identify the problem. That's... less than ideal.
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Mar 19, 2019 01:26
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Another motor mount replaced, again hoping to fix the goddamn clunking up front when going over bumps (so far I've replaced wheel bearings [unrelated, they were howling], sway bar end links, front quickstruts, and 2 mounts). The clunking isn't nearly as bad, but still there if I hammer a speed bump. So I guess the next one is the main transmission mount. Somehow the old mount still had some liquid left in it - no obvious ruptures or leaks - but I had to lift the engine another 2 inches to get the bolts to even start threading into the timing cover, when the engine didn't move at inch after removing the old mount. I guess next attempt to eliminate the clunking is subframe bolts or control arms, but I can't get anything there to even budge with pry bars. There's a clunk if I (at low speeds only) swerve side to side. I did notice some impact marks on the control arms from the sway bar, so I'm wondering if maybe the sway bar bushings might be hosed. I haven't paid much attention to them before - with the end links disconnected, the sway bar does move easily.  Old mount. Notice mount point on engine is flush with the mount, with all nuts/bolts out.  New one in (only took 6 months for me to finally do this!) - had to jack the engine up a couple of inches to even get the bolts on the engine side to begin threading.  Old one probably leaking a bit, but nothing seemed damp or oily? I could easily move it enough to bang into the other metal piece by hand though, so it's definitely seen better days. 
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Mar 20, 2019 08:27
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Lots of fun today. Have been working 7 days a week for a while now and today is the first time I’ve been home early enough to work on projects so I did a bunch. FXT got new Hawk HPS pads, Hawk rotors, and new calipers.  The FB got new inner door skins   New hatch struts  And a new full Racing Beat exhaust      And a video of the fresh, still-burnin’-off-the-gunk exhaust sound https://youtu.be/ZVyDF_P7Mps
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Mar 20, 2019 21:48
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Imperador do Brasil posted:
GJ on everything, but I'm stealing this in particular for a future project.
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Mar 20, 2019 22:40
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angryrobots posted:GJ on everything, but I'm stealing this in particular for a future project. I can’t claim to have cut them myself. They were made by a couple in Florida called LRB Speed. I barely have time to bolt them in much less machine them...
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Mar 20, 2019 23:29
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Imperador do Brasil posted:I can’t claim to have cut them myself. They were made by a couple in Florida called LRB Speed. I barely have time to bolt them in much less machine them... LRB also has a lot of nice panels, like the radiator top plate and undertray, and FC stuff like the hood latch area close out as well.
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Mar 21, 2019 00:01
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Imperador do Brasil posted:
What was on there before? Looks like maybe a Pacesetter?
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Mar 21, 2019 00:03
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Darchangel posted:What was on there before? Looks like maybe a Pacesetter? Muffler was definitely Pacesetter but the other poo poo, who knows? The header definitely looks “custom”, and the muffler pulled right out of the axle-back pipe when I took it out from under the car. Which might explain at least partly the completely insanely raunchy sound.
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Mar 21, 2019 00:14
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Lol this is almost exactly like my motor mount episode where some people (not here) were very skeptical that mounts would need to be changed on a 2011. Another thing I've noticed since is that putting in a fresh strong mount (and like you elevating the engine back a few inches to the default position) seems to kill/make the the remaining old mounts show how worn they really are. Everything was nice for a few weeks, but now it feels like the gearbox side is clunking a bit and shifting gears is harder which I interpret as the gearbox mount being poo poo and misaligned the gearbox linkage. It's a bit harder to get to so it'll have to wait until the other car is legal to drive (only got summer tyres for it).
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Mar 21, 2019 08:49
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MrOnBicycle posted:Lol this is almost exactly like my motor mount episode where some people (not here) were very skeptical that mounts would need to be changed on a 2011. Another thing I've noticed since is that putting in a fresh strong mount (and like you elevating the engine back a few inches to the default position) seems to kill/make the the remaining old mounts show how worn they really are. Everything was nice for a few weeks, but now it feels like the gearbox side is clunking a bit and shifting gears is harder which I interpret as the gearbox mount being poo poo and misaligned the gearbox linkage. It's a bit harder to get to so it'll have to wait until the other car is legal to drive (only got summer tyres for it). I've done all but 1 other mount already. And it didn't really do much for the clunking. Then I looked at the sway bar. And the bushings. The sway bar is shifted way over, and it can be moved back and forth while attached to the end links. And there's marks on the passenger side lower control arm from the sway bar slamming into it. There's lips molded into the sway bar that look like they're designed to keep it from moving past the bushings - one lip is well into the bushing  I remember when I did the front struts, the sway bar just flopped down like it was on hinges once it was unbolted. Didn't realize it wasn't supposed to do that. 
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Mar 22, 2019 07:09
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STR posted:I've done all but 1 other mount already. And it didn't really do much for the clunking. Even still, having an engine tilted and lower by a couple of inches can't be good for the mechanicals. Noises disappeared after I changed mine, which was a bit worrying at first. Speaking of clunks and noises, I went around spraying all the bushings with PTFE and ziptied my handbrake cable sleeves to the hanger (were almost worn through from bouncing). Very big difference, which kinda surprised me.
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Mar 22, 2019 09:50
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It's definitely hard on the car. My parents car needed a new transmission mount. They refused when they saw how much it cost (probably not a lot, knowing my parents). A year later they needed a new transmission mount, 2 engine mounts, and the exhaust had come off one of its hangers. I'm convinced fixing first problem probably would have reduced the likelihood of the others from occurring.
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Mar 22, 2019 18:05
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Thanks to jamal. This poo poo is porn.   
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Mar 22, 2019 19:26
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Measuring in grams. This guy cycles.
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Mar 22, 2019 19:59
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The other option is pounds and ounces, which I have never bothered to get a feel for  METRIC SYSTEM FOR UNITED STATES 20204.2 pounds
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Mar 22, 2019 20:00
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BlackMK4 posted:METRIC SYSTEM FOR UNITED STATES 2020 You've got my vote.
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Mar 22, 2019 20:16
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I had to loving remove the front bumper and undo the headlights so I could move them to change bulbs as I can't fit my hand to swap them. I hate new cars sometimes. It was a bitch to get the bumper back on as well.
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Mar 22, 2019 22:07
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Are those DBA rotors? I’m about to pull the trigger on some DBA rotors for my FoRS.
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Mar 23, 2019 00:19
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Huge_Midget posted:Are those DBA rotors? I’m about to pull the trigger on some DBA rotors for my FoRS. They are the Stoptech floating race ones. I went out to bed them in a little bit before this weekend and all I have to say is....  They aren't fully bedded yet but they make my stock calipers + DTC60s feel like a joke
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Mar 23, 2019 |
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Mar 23, 2019 01:53
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So glad they showed up today and you get to use them this weekend! Love the speed holes and all the machining done to the calipers. And yeah it is a similar slotting pattern to DBA. The reason for this (and the pillar vane design) isn't specifically for performance but for cost savings as you don't need separate left and right rotors. Replacement rings for that kit are about half the price as for Stoptech's fairly similar 328x28 ST40 setup. And it's lighter. And uses thicker and cheaper pads. And doesn't have dust boots that would melt anyway. jamal fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Mar 23, 2019 |
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Mar 23, 2019 03:13
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MrOnBicycle posted:Even still, having an engine tilted and lower by a couple of inches can't be good for the mechanicals. Noises disappeared after I changed mine, which was a bit worrying at first. No doubt at all - it's hard on the other drivetrain mounts, and particularly bad for the CV joints. There's a lot less noise since doing mounts, but the noise still there is very... heavy sounding, and can be felt through the entire car. It's definitely something slamming into something. And after seeing the dent in the passenger side LCA, the marks on the sway bar, and where the sway bar is sitting, I'm pretty convinced the bushings checked out a loooooong time ago. Kinda surprised the sway bar end links haven't let go, but they're all metal Moog replacements (complete with grease zerks!) instead of the bastard metal/plastic ones from the factory. One of my parking brake cables had the jacket ripped in several places... along with the armor. Yeah, that fucker was stretched WAY out. It never snapped, but it had stretched enough that the cables kept popping out of the handle (it has a little thing that swivels back and forth at the end of it, and the stretch was too much for it to deal with - but the loud POP when a cable popped out had me thinking it'd snapped). And it turns out replacing a parking brake cable on this car is a complete bitch unless you remove the seats and carpet. Or you take a box cutter to the carpet... (13 year old beater Saturn, you can guess what option I went with). I knew the cable was hosed when I got the car, so I had a replacement on hand. I just didn't anticipate it being such a PITA to get to the handle. 
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Mar 23, 2019 09:43
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| # ? May 23, 2024 23:58 |
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Jesus Christ I hope I don't have to deal with handbrake cables like that...but then again I own a car that pretty much requires me to to take off the front bumper to change lights so..... I'm ashamed to say, speaking of vibrations etc, that my winter tires are unbalanced and I've left it like that. I don't drive that much but it's right at the speed I usually drive outside of towns and it's annoying and probably not that good for the car, however, spending $120 balancing tires that I don't like stings too much. Only a week left of winter tire period anyway.
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Mar 23, 2019 12:43
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