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How the gently caress do I even try to remove this thermostat? One of the two bolts holding it on is located here:  The other is buried behind that big rear end bracket, and cannot be reached without first loosening the upper hose clamp and moving the hose. The screw on the hose clamp is, of course, jammed up against the block where it too is inaccessible. You can't get a wrench on either one, you can't get at it with an extension because there's other poo poo in the way. Like there must be some 6-dimensional hypertorus wrench or something that they used to install this thing. Who designs this poo poo? Christ. The haynes book, as always, is just like "unbolt alternator, unbolt thermostat housing, installation is the reverse" with no images or anything.
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Mar 22, 2019 02:28
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If the alternator is out seems like you wouldn't need to worry about the bracket? :dunno:
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Mar 22, 2019 02:37
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C-Bangin' it 
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:The piece you’re looking for is a lower cladding. Thats very helpful thank you. It's silver btw. Looks like the -B0 is what i need
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Mar 22, 2019 03:21
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Long Francesco posted:Thats very helpful thank you. It's silver btw. Just be aware the color may not match exactly since that 4Runner has had 11 years to bake in the sun.
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Mar 22, 2019 03:49
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kid sinister posted:https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3302145&pagenumber=45&perpage=40 Thanks, that thread is locked but I'll try DIY.
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Mar 22, 2019 03:50
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Son of Sam-I-Am posted:Thanks, that thread is locked but I'll try DIY. Push, rider, self-propelled, etc?
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Mar 22, 2019 04:12
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Javid posted:How the gently caress do I even try to remove this thermostat? There is a complete removal of the alternator in your future. Following that, all will be revealed.
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Mar 22, 2019 04:33
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Oh hey, the one mechanical operation on this tub I have extensive practice at! Except it's also the one I hate the most. Thanks, fellow Dodge sufferer.
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Mar 22, 2019 04:40
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Colostomy Bag posted:Push, rider, self-propelled, etc? I guess I'll just duplicate the post here. Son of Sam-I-Am posted:I'm looking for recommendations for a zero turn lawn mower. We have an old 42" Craftsman that was fine for a little over an acre, but we moved to 3 acres and it takes at least 3-4 hours now to mow.
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Mar 22, 2019 05:20
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My 2008 Kia, manual transmission is having a little bit of difficulty starting sometimes. This started last winter. When it was really cold and I turned the key, the electricity would turn on, but the car wouldn't start. If I took the key out, took my foot off the clutch and redid it, it would eventually start after a try or two. It only seemed to happen when it was cold. I also took the key off my key-ring so there wasn't a lot of extra weight pulling down on the keys. I'm not 100% sure which actions would make it start, the re-push of the clutch or the re insertion and turn of the key. This winter it didn't act up as bad initially, but its acting up again even though its not as cold. Now it seems like if I turn my key, the electricity turns on in the car and there's a few seconds of hesitation(no engine sounds at all) and then the engine starts. The battery is relatively new. I think its about 3 years old. I am looking at things I can try/investigate to see why this is happening before I take it to a shop. While I need to keep this car running, I don't want to throw a lot of money at it. I drive it about 100 miles a week at the most and I don't work over the summer so it hardly gets driven then. I think I put about 3000 miles on it last year. I just need it to hold on long enough to pay off my husband's car so I can get a new one.
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Mar 22, 2019 15:29
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How old is the battery (it has a sticker with a date on it) and how do the connections work.
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Mar 22, 2019 15:46
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Probably the battery based on you saying "when cold out". Second would be the clutch pedal sensor.
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Mar 22, 2019 15:49
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Very specific stupid question: In July 2017 I got a speeding ticket in New Jersey, the very week I was selling my car and moving to California. I just bought another car in California and the ticket is still on my record and is driving my insurance up. Is it possible to still take one of those driving courses to knock it off? Can I do it while I'm in California? My insurance lady with AAA wasn't any help about this and just said she "wasn't sure".
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Mar 22, 2019 18:38
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Uhh, usually there's a timeframe to do it in, set by the state, and associated with a higher penalty fee. Ex: $200 speeding ticket, or $300 to the courthouse instead with a driving course and one year deferment. So probably not? Tickets are on a 3 year cycle I think, which means you're closer to getting it dropped than anything.
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Mar 22, 2019 19:18
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Unmature posted:Very specific stupid question: Usually a safe driver's course won't wipe a speeding ticket off your record, but your insurer may offer you a discount for completing a course that will offset part or all of the rate increase. Maybe call back and phrase the question differently? Also there's more going on here than just the inclusion of a speeding ticket on your record - new vehicle and new state are going to factor in to rates as well.
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Mar 22, 2019 19:40
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Unmature posted:Very specific stupid question: If you didn’t do anything about the ticket then, or just paid the fine, it’s a guilty plea and it’s on your record. In July of 2010 you could ask your insurance company to remove it from your record, even if you’re mid-term on your policy. Geoj posted:
Also, this.
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Mar 22, 2019 19:44
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My (new to me) 2007 Lexus LS460 has been doing this annoying brake squawking/barking thing, even when the car is stopped. It's a known problem with the brake actuator, however the replacement part is around $1900 at the dealer or ~$1200 on ebay (supposedly new, but I worry about spending $1k+ on an ebay part). The TSB says bleeding the actuator may fix the problem, and either way I need Toyota's Techstream software to zero the pressure on the actuator to do any kind of work on it. There are tons of cheap cables for Techstream on Amazon / ebay, but it looks like a lot of the cable + software combos are just cracked versions of Techstream. If that's all I need, great, but if you pay for Toyota's tech site it looks like you get access to legit Techstream software for $65 for 2 days' worth of access. However, I'm not sure if that will work with knockoff cables, or require some expensive cable. Tl;dr - what's the cheapest but reliable way to get Techstream access?
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Mar 22, 2019 19:58
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Unmature posted:Very specific stupid question: You are dealing with NJ. Chances are they will be more than happy than to accept your funds. But cripes, should have dealt with it sooner.
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Mar 22, 2019 20:04
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MomJeans420 posted:My (new to me) 2007 Lexus LS460 has been doing this annoying brake squawking/barking thing, even when the car is stopped. It's a known problem with the brake actuator, however the replacement part is around $1900 at the dealer or ~$1200 on ebay (supposedly new, but I worry about spending $1k+ on an ebay part). The TSB says bleeding the actuator may fix the problem, and either way I need Toyota's Techstream software to zero the pressure on the actuator to do any kind of work on it. Those $15 ebay cables and pirated techstream software. I think you need a 32 bit windows install for some of them to work. If you do the toyota thing through their website you need an official mongoose cable or whatever its called.
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Mar 22, 2019 21:39
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Hmmm the official cables are $500 or more, I see a pirated version and an old laptop in my future
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Mar 22, 2019 21:46
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MomJeans420 posted:Hmmm the official cables are $500 or more, I see a pirated version and an old laptop in my future An old laptop is convenient, but I run all of that crap in virtual machines (like the free version of virtualbox) and just "pass through" the usb cable. That way I have a nice clean place for each of the various ones I run and messing with one doesn't break the other. Sometimes just being up to date with windows update past a certain point will break this crap, so my VMs are just dumpster fires of security vulnerabilities and old poo poo because once it works I just stop right there, take a backup and keep running it as needed.
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Mar 22, 2019 21:54
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Ok, I've got the old thermostat out. Manual says to goober RTV on both sides of the gasket; the actual gasket I have has a sticky side. Do I just rtv the other side or what? Which surface do I stick the thing to?
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Mar 23, 2019 00:00
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Motronic posted:An old laptop is convenient, but I run all of that crap in virtual machines (like the free version of virtualbox) and just "pass through" the usb cable. That way I have a nice clean place for each of the various ones I run and messing with one doesn't break the other. Sometimes just being up to date with windows update past a certain point will break this crap, so my VMs are just dumpster fires of security vulnerabilities and old poo poo because once it works I just stop right there, take a backup and keep running it as needed. I just assumed USB pass through wouldn't work, but I think the last time I tried that was years and years ago. I'll give that a shot first, I certainly don't want to run the cracked version on my normal laptop
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Mar 23, 2019 01:53
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Figured out the RTV situation; everything is back together and I'm waiting 24 hours to fill up the coolant and fire up the van, per the directions included with the RTV tube. Tomorrow's problem: How do I fill up the coolant on this engine (318) without getting an air bubble? In my car there's a little burp valve you can open at the exact top of the cooling system that completely erases that problem; this van lacks that.
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Mar 23, 2019 03:10
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Most cars don't have godawful cooling systems that need bleed valves. Drive it up on some ramps or jack it up a bit to help make sure the radiator cap is the highest point in the system, then fill it up and keep filling it while it warms up and flows some water past the thermostat. One of those adapter funnels is a worthwhile investment too, especially because they're so cheap.
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Mar 23, 2019 03:37
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Leave the cap off with engine running for a while. Squeeze/not squeeze and repeat with the top rad hose. Should get it going.
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Mar 23, 2019 03:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:Most cars don't have godawful cooling systems that need bleed valves. Drive it up on some ramps or jack it up a bit to help make sure the radiator cap is the highest point in the system, then fill it up and keep filling it while it warms up and flows some water past the thermostat. Adapter funnel... red one, accordion-y with two different stepped threadings on one end? I got one of those to dump oil down the dipstick tube of this thing rather than take the doghouse off to do it right. It was 97 cents at the Pahrump Wal-mart iirc (and worked hilariously well)
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Mar 23, 2019 03:45
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2015 F150 with the 5.0 V8. Can the VCT solenoids be replaced without removing the front timing cover? Does the computer need to be told it has new sensors or are they plug and play? It's having occasional rough idle/stalling issues and I'm trying to fix it for the least amout of money. I sure hope it's not failed cam phasers.
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Mar 23, 2019 03:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:Most cars don't have godawful cooling systems that need bleed valves. Drive it up on some ramps or jack it up a bit to help make sure the radiator cap is the highest point in the system, then fill it up and keep filling it while it warms up and flows some water past the thermostat. I don't think I've owned a car built after 1980 that didn't have a bleeder. My favorite is on the Pentastar where the bleeder isn't even at the highest point of the block, much less the cooling system. 
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Mar 23, 2019 03:56
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So just to double-check the order of operations here: * Jack up front end * fill radiator to the top * start engine * continue adding coolant to the radiator until I've put in the entire gallon I took out?
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Mar 23, 2019 04:15
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Javid posted:Adapter funnel... red one, accordion-y with two different stepped threadings on one end? I got one of those to dump oil down the dipstick tube of this thing rather than take the doghouse off to do it right. It was 97 cents at the Pahrump Wal-mart iirc (and worked hilariously well) Lisle sells one for like $20, there are a bunch of ripoffs of it on Amazon as well. It has adapters that thread onto the radiator so that it can hold water well above the rest of the system. Your order of operations is good, as long as you wait long enough for the engine to get hot enough to open the thermostat a few times. Only thing to add is that you'll want to check the radiator again after it cools down for the next few days as it burps poo poo out.
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Mar 23, 2019 04:48
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Javid posted:So just to double-check the order of operations here: Supposedly you're also supposed to turn the heater on too.
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Mar 23, 2019 05:31
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Godholio posted:I don't think I've owned a car built after 1980 that didn't have a bleeder. My favorite is on the Pentastar where the bleeder isn't even at the highest point of the block, much less the cooling system. I think I've owned 1 or 2 that had a bleeder. I'm pretty sure my 91 Integra had one, possibly the 99 Altima as well. Most of my cars have been >1990, and more than half have been Honda (1 Ford, 1 Nissan, 2 Saturns thrown in). Mom's 03 Toyota Avalon doesn't have a bleeder either; instead, the "radiator" cap goes on the thermostat housing, and it's the highest point in the cooling system. GF's 05 Toyota Matrix doesn't have one that I could find either, though the cap is actually on the radiator on hers.
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Mar 23, 2019 08:29
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Australia-centric question: I've got a Town Ace I want to fit out as a camper, while still using it as a daily. My main issue is that while it is rego'd as an 8-seater and has all the original belts/anchor points intact, the rearmost row of seats have been removed, which is where I'd much rather have them (will not be used often, and make it much easier to have a pull-out bed and accessible storage). The middle seats are there and quite comfy, but unfortunately are going to have to go if I want to have a bed and sensible storage. What are some good models to look for to scavenge a slightly smaller bench seat for the back? Don't mind going down to two rather than three seats, and I've only got about 110cm of width for the front mounting points thanks to the wheel wells. There are some brackets there but I am under no illusions I'll find something that fits them (PO said the rear row were aftermarket, and installed in the 90s), so I'll be having them professionally fitted FWIW.
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Mar 23, 2019 12:23
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Quick question. I’m getting the 40k service on my wife’s Toyota at the dealership and they’re telling me the “pcv valve is getting clogged with carbon” and want $190 to “do it” whatever that means. Clean? Replace? Dunno. Is this a thing that should actually get done or are they padding their bill? Edit: dude said it was a “4 or 5 out of 10” whatever that means Cyrano4747 fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Mar 23, 2019 |
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Mar 23, 2019 16:45
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Depending on the car those sometimes unplug in 30 seconds. I would say "show me" and if they can't put a carboned up valve in your hands, they're liars. Clogged pcv valve at 40k miles seems improbable. The part is also like $10
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Mar 23, 2019 17:00
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Yeah reading up on it I’m just going to kick the can and have another mechanic look at it when I do the 60k service. Also somehow their WiFi blocks most car sites, toyota forums etc. No problem connecting from my phone, no go on WiFi. 
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Mar 23, 2019 17:30
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Javid posted:How do they know you have gas cans? Are they nosing through vehicles on entry or something? Seems like "just shove it under something else in the trunk or something so they leave you alone" is the answer here. What officious pricks don't know won't hurt them. They do a cursory cargo search when you arrive at the festival.
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Mar 23, 2019 17:35
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Are you allowed to bring drinks? Motor oil? Put the gasoline in a bunch of smaller bottles that aren't red and don't say gasoline on them. Then you can easily pull out a liter or two at a time and it doesn't look like gas.
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Mar 23, 2019 17:38
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Astonishing Wang posted:Are you allowed to bring drinks? Motor oil? Put the gasoline in a bunch of smaller bottles that aren't red and don't say gasoline on them. Then you can easily pull out a liter or two at a time and it doesn't look like gas. I'm just gonna take my 5 gallon like I usually do and talk my way through security. They are specifically allowed but they say "an appropriate amount" and dont specify an actual quantity. 1 out of 5 years ive had it confiscated because security is run by a bunch of volunteers and no one wants to be the guy holding up 25,000 cars of people trying to get in.
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Mar 23, 2019 17:46
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