dedian posted:Do you mean exposure compensation for the bright white background? You'll get that with many cameras unless you're able to manually control it, and with a light background like that, a properly exposed shot for your subject might blow out parts or all of the background. Unfortunately I have 0 knowledge of photography, but yeah there is definitely something going on that I should account for. I've painted a Mantic ghoul and I've tried rotating the lightbox on a side (taking pictures from outside the top opening, with the lightbox lying on the back, so that the light comes from the front instead of from the top, since this miniature is hunched over) and this time the light backdrop seems to have worked way better than the dark one. While in the Skaven pics the dark backdrop ones were the ones closer to the miniature true colors, in the case of the Ghoul it's the opposite. Dark Backdrop:  Light Backdrop:  In the first set, the light is overpowering the color; in the second one, the purple/pink is much more visible. That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Mar 23, 2019 |
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Mar 23, 2019 19:15
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I found with the Open Camera app my phone (Moto X4) can also shoot in RAW format which gives a LOT more flexibility on adjusting exposure, color balance, and other tweaks on import into Photoshop. Don't know how broadly applicable that is for other models of smartphone.
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Mar 23, 2019 19:29
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I'm planning to start making some ledges/shelves for displaying records in heavy rotation on my walls, is there any concern with storing vinyl at a slight angle like this if it is in the sleeve? Like if I didn't change out what was on the wall more than once every 3 to 6 months would that be damaging or should I be fine? https://www.etsy.com/listing/458571612/vinyl-record-ledge-record-shelf-vinyl
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Mar 23, 2019 19:50
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That Italian Guy posted:Unfortunately I have 0 knowledge of photography, but yeah there is definitely something going on that I should account for. I've painted a Mantic ghoul and I've tried rotating the lightbox on a side (taking pictures from outside the top opening, with the lightbox lying on the back, so that the light comes from the front instead of from the top, since this miniature is hunched over) and this time the light backdrop seems to have worked way better than the dark one. Your camera wants the average of the image to be grey. Against a dark background, typically that will lighten a subject. Against white it'll darken it. If you have a darker model the white backdrop will work better, a light model will be better against a dark background. This is a very rough generalization, it's affected by things like metering modes and all sorts of ai on modern phone cameras but this is good enough for most people here.
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Mar 23, 2019 20:26
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MMD3 posted:I'm planning to start making some ledges/shelves for displaying records in heavy rotation on my walls, is there any concern with storing vinyl at a slight angle like this if it is in the sleeve? Like if I didn't change out what was on the wall more than once every 3 to 6 months would that be damaging or should I be fine? thin your paints
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Mar 23, 2019 20:42
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MMD3 posted:I'm planning to start making some ledges/shelves for displaying records in heavy rotation on my walls, is there any concern with storing vinyl at a slight angle like this if it is in the sleeve? Like if I didn't change out what was on the wall more than once every 3 to 6 months would that be damaging or should I be fine? I’ve had a lot of success using washes. You should also consider upgrading to a wet pallet.
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Mar 23, 2019 22:18
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What kind of materials would be best for making medium-sized rocks on a 25mm base? I know a lot of people use cork for bigger chunks of slate, and it looks good, but would smaller pieces of cork maintain the illusion of rock or would it look weird?
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Mar 23, 2019 23:14
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:What kind of materials would be best for making medium-sized rocks on a 25mm base? I know a lot of people use cork for bigger chunks of slate, and it looks good, but would smaller pieces of cork maintain the illusion of rock or would it look weird? Go to your local home improvement store, buy a slate tile, hit it with a hammer.
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Mar 24, 2019 00:52
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MMD3 posted:I'm planning to start making some ledges/shelves for displaying records in heavy rotation on my walls, is there any concern with storing vinyl at a slight angle like this if it is in the sleeve? Like if I didn't change out what was on the wall more than once every 3 to 6 months would that be damaging or should I be fine? Base your whole army the same way and plan it from the start so it doesn't look disjointed.
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Mar 24, 2019 00:56
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Booley posted:Go to your local home improvement store, buy a slate tile, hit it with a hammer. Go outside, look at ground.
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Mar 24, 2019 00:57
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Cthulu Carl posted:Go outside, look at ground. Many stones on the ground are rounded off and too big, a $1 slate tile can be hit into whatever size works well and will have interesting texture the whole time.
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Mar 24, 2019 00:58
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Booley posted:Many stones on the ground are rounded off and too big, a $1 slate tile can be hit into whatever size works well and will have interesting texture the whole time. The slate tile things sounds like something worth trying, but you can still find some tiny stones or small bits of gravel that can work for decorating a base. With one of the Orcs I painted last year, I decorated the base with some of the basing grass you can get from hobby stores, and with a couple of small pieces of gravel from our driveway.    
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Mar 24, 2019 01:30
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Max Wilco posted:The slate tile things sounds like something worth trying, but you can still find some tiny stones or small bits of gravel that can work for decorating a base. If you look in the right spots, you should be able to find loads of small, irregularly shaped rocks. I've found several tiny, fossil seashells (like, the size of a Guardsman mini's fist) just a few steps into my yard that I've used. If all you have outside is concrete urban area, yeah, you might need to go the slate route. But if you have any green space handy, there's some good stuff out there.
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Mar 24, 2019 03:03
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Here's a funny/educational story: I thought to buy some new Xacto blades, since the one I had seemed like was getting a little dull. However, because I'm dumb, I didn't think to look to see what size I needed, and I ended up buying the wrong size (bought #11s instead of the larger #2s). However, I realized that one of the old Xacto-knock-off sets we had included a handle that fit the blades, so it worked out. In addition, the smaller #11 blades work better for getting into the smaller crevices to get flash/mold-lines.
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Mar 24, 2019 03:53
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Weirdly, real rocks always look off to me on bases. Even when the size is right, something about them sends a signal to my brain that the scale isn't right. Painting them helps, but it's still noticeable. I'm probably just being neurotic about it, though. Busting a slate tile sounds pretty easy, at least.
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Mar 24, 2019 03:55
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Xeolite crystals (the kind you use for fish-tanks) have a roughness that looks quite good at scale. I use them a lot for WW2 stuff.
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Mar 24, 2019 06:28
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Booley posted:Your camera wants the average of the image to be grey. Against a dark background, typically that will lighten a subject. Against white it'll darken it. If you have a darker model the white backdrop will work better, a light model will be better against a dark background. Thanks that makes sense! I'll also try to download Open Camera. Edit: figured out that the option to take RAW (DNG) pictures is not present by default, but appears once you enable the "Camera2 API" setting in the...Settings section of the App. That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 09:01 on Mar 24, 2019 |
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Mar 24, 2019 08:48
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Hey OP, I was going through the first few posts in search of resources to buy some new models and I've found a couple of dead links: http://www.hawkwargames.com looks like the site has been swapped over with a template, there is also a redirect in place (to this):  Also...your site is down/gone/moved? https://www.tinyplasticspacemen.com (or maybe you've moved everything to YT?) There is a lot of recommendations for model lines, but does anyone have recommendations for specific individual models they've enjoyed painting? Possibly 28-32mm, preferably fantasy or sci-fi.
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Mar 24, 2019 13:44
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That Italian Guy posted:Hey OP, Yeah that's not gonna help, krushgroove has been awol from the forum for years. Maybe it's time for a new thread and get a mod to lock this one?
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Mar 24, 2019 13:52
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I second that, absent op’s are bad. Normally I’m all in on creating Effort OP’s, but I don’t feel I know enough about painting to create one.
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Mar 24, 2019 15:32
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:What kind of materials would be best for making medium-sized rocks on a 25mm base? I know a lot of people use cork for bigger chunks of slate, and it looks good, but would smaller pieces of cork maintain the illusion of rock or would it look weird? I like oyster shells.  Zark the Damned posted:Yeah that's not gonna help, krushgroove has been awol from the forum for years. Maybe it's time for a new thread and get a mod to lock this one? I agree. Beer4TheBeerGod fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Mar 24, 2019 |
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Mar 24, 2019 15:55
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Speaking as someone who just started painting, the current OP has a shitload of good content to keep
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Mar 24, 2019 20:22
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Which cheap lightbox is the goon recommended one nowadays? Also, assuming they don't come with it, where can I source some of those seamless paper backgrounds so that I can have some options besides white and black?Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I like oyster shells. This is neat, definitely going to try this out and also use it as an excuse to eat oysters.
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Mar 25, 2019 00:31
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Comrades, I call on you for assistance. I done hosed up and the best part is I have no idea how. i'm doing an experimental scheme for a Primaris marine. The scheme is primarily a verdigris - prime white, layer on thinned Nihilakh Oxide, recess shade with Drakenhof Nightshade, highlight with Ulthuan Grey, then hit it with a VMC verdigris glaze to reduce chalkiness and help blend the highlight. I applied brush-on dullcote and in a couple of patches it wiped the verdigris off entirely. It wasn't consistent across the model, but where it happened it really just sloughed off the verdrigris layers like they were never there. I have no idea what caused this. Halp?
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Mar 25, 2019 02:28
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The 30k thread drew straws and I got the short one so I guess I'm responsible for making a new OP for this thread. It might take me about a week to put together or so. I'm going to get a few of our resident painters to contribute to specific sections.
BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Mar 25, 2019 |
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Mar 25, 2019 03:29
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Finished Lt / Leader type guy for Infinity. C+C welcome.   
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Mar 25, 2019 03:40
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I thought this guy's tyranid army themed like some Geiger thing was neat.    Find stuff like this really inspiring.
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Mar 25, 2019 04:24
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Harvey Mantaco posted:I thought this guy's tyranid army themed like some Geiger thing was neat.
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Mar 25, 2019 04:58
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I feel like he'd have earned a couple honestly
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Mar 25, 2019 05:14
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I am painting my first figures in about 15 years. I got the GW Essential paints set and it has white- Ceramite White.. Great! I want to have white fatigues under blue armour. I have both colours. ...but the Ceramite White is a thick gloopy mess I could use as toothpaste? It dosn't actually seem to be paint you put on figures, from what I read I should have used celestra grey (which I have) instead. So my question is, what is Ceramite White for? I tried thinning it with water but that made it so running it just fell off the undercoat. Comstar fucked around with this message at 10:28 on Mar 25, 2019 |
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Mar 25, 2019 10:16
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^^^^^^ I had the same issue with my Titanium based white, then I've started thinning it with Vallejo surface primer white instead of water and it feels much better.Grizzled Patriarch posted:Which cheap lightbox is the goon recommended one nowadays? Also, assuming they don't come with it, where can I source some of those seamless paper backgrounds so that I can have some options besides white and black? Me and a few more goons have purchased this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B078GY78H6 recently and it's more than enough for me. E: it comes with 6 different backgrounds, it's small enough to fold and put in a drawer and it's super cheap. Also, a question: could anyone recommend 1+ good Yellow(s), Vallejo Model, Vallejo Airbrush or (  ) GW? In the past, when I was using GW stuff I never had too many issues with my Yellows, but now that I'm using an AP set, I finally found out what everyone was saying about poor coverage when using that color. It's great for highlights though! Not so much for painting something true yellow :/
That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 10:49 on Mar 25, 2019 |
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Mar 25, 2019 10:29
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Mugaaz posted:Finished Lt / Leader type guy for Infinity. C+C This guy looks cool. Most of the blends are good, especially the red fabric. The knee armor and gauntlet stand out as areas that could use some work. They have what looks like one thick edge highlight- it's begging for some blends like you have going on for the rest. You could thin the edge color down with medium, or add a tiny bit of the edge color to the base color to smooth the transition into black.
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Mar 25, 2019 12:30
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Mugaaz posted:Finished Lt / Leader type guy for Infinity. C+C welcome. This is very nice. Speaking of Infinity Minis, I finally caved and bought a Yu Jing starter pack cause there is bit of everything and the minis look super fun to paint (the central big guy looks especially fun, since it has a bit of everything).  These ones. How much assembly/cleaning/pinning is necessary? I normally paint hard plastic stuff and I'm not used to white metal anymore.
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Mar 25, 2019 13:05
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That Italian Guy posted:This is very nice. Speaking of Infinity Minis, I finally caved and bought a Yu Jing starter pack cause there is bit of everything and the minis look super fun to paint (the central big guy looks especially fun, since it has a bit of everything). I haven't put together those models specifically but there will be a lot of filing and assembling, and you should probably pin a good amount of stuff but you don't need to go and pin every limb like some people do. You can get an idea of what you're in for here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6GBSIvAiBY&t=867s long-ass nips Diane fucked around with this message at 13:12 on Mar 25, 2019 |
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Mar 25, 2019 13:10
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To offer a second opinion, I have pinned exactly one component for Infinity crap ever, and it was a tiny fiddly antenna. Scoring your joins before you use a good superglue has been enough to keep my models intact through regular play and transportation, and if I drop one on the floor, it explodes instead of getting bent or tearing. Prep is going to take a million years for highly detailed little pewter things no matter what you do. You're going to need to file and scrape down some mold lines no matter what. Since you're already taking the time, if you feel more comfortable pinning, drill away. I strongly, strongly recommend you get some fresh super glue. The thick gel kind is best, and freshness will help it bind faster. I've put together that very set, and I don't remember anything being particularly horrible. The Hsien has some dumb antennae on the back, but they slip into a slot. You might have to do a little gap filling if you want things to be super clean, but I just cheat it out most of the time and nobody's noticed yet.
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Mar 25, 2019 14:07
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Thanks for the feedback! I normally don't pin stuff either, and I don't think these mini will see a lot of play (our local friendly store doesn't even carry Infinity models) but I wasn't sure about the pinning for these models, as they look to have a lot of pieces and they are sculpted with more realistic proportions. As per super glue, I've just opened up a new gel dispenser the other day, so we should be good to go  I'm currently painting the Ork+Goblin model that came with the Warhammer Online collector edition (got it from a friend who used to work for the EU distributor) and man, I'm no longer used to paint metal mini, especially big chunky things like that. I can't keep it glued to handle I normally use and it feels like the paint is peeling off like crazy from all the fur in the back of the mantle when I'm touching it.  This one. It's a big 32mm chunk of pewter, with the fur coat being basically a giant rectangular piece that fills all the holes in the front and covers all the back and it weights a ton. E: also I've just realized that I must have lost the wrist blade and the helmet spike bits cause they were not in the (opened) blister
That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Mar 25, 2019 |
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Mar 25, 2019 15:24
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That Italian Guy posted:Thanks for the feedback! I normally don't pin stuff either, and I don't think these mini will see a lot of play (our local friendly store doesn't even carry Infinity models) but I wasn't sure about the pinning for these models, as they look to have a lot of pieces and they are sculpted with more realistic proportions. As per super glue, I've just opened up a new gel dispenser the other day, so we should be good to go As someone who has also painted this mini (he's a Weirdboy for my 40k Ork Army), he is a complete bastard to paint. I had so many issues getting the cloak to look decent and kinda just gave up on him after 6 or 7 hours of work
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Mar 25, 2019 16:00
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The Jumpoff posted:As someone who has also painted this mini (he's a Weirdboy for my 40k Ork Army), he is a complete bastard to paint. I had so many issues getting the cloak to look decent and kinda just gave up on him after 6 or 7 hours of work The back is "ok" - even if it's very very samey. The front of the cloak has that weird "dorito shape" that completely blocks out all the nooks and crannies and I dislike that part of the sculpt a lot. I have enjoyed paiting the face though, and the Gobbo is also probably going to be fun. After the purplish Mantic Ghoul I've painted last time, I've realized I'm having a lot of fun painting weird hue skin tones and paiting muscles/body parts in general.
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Mar 25, 2019 16:53
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Comstar posted:I am painting my first figures in about 15 years. I got the GW Essential paints set and it has white- Ceramite White.. Great! I want to have white fatigues under blue armour. I have both colours. I'm not going to pretend to be good at this, but i've messed around with 'white' paints enough to maybe be of use? The problem with Ceramite is twofold - one, even more so than a lot of other citadel light paints, you have to shake the absolute bejezus out of the pot before you try to use it. My pot of ceramite actually does better than most of my other whites, but rough handling in shipping and weak quality control, your results could be anything. Two, as the whitest of whites, you basically can't highlight it, so it'll look flat a lot of the time. I'm quoting Duncan here, but to make something look white, what you actually want to do is either use uluthuan grey for a cool white, or pallid wych for a warm white, and then highlight with ceramite or white scar. Lastly, if things are coming apart when you thin with water, thin with future or lahmian instead.
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Mar 25, 2019 17:48
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That Italian Guy posted:This is very nice. Speaking of Infinity Minis, I finally caved and bought a Yu Jing starter pack cause there is bit of everything and the minis look super fun to paint (the central big guy looks especially fun, since it has a bit of everything). I loving hate assembling metal miniatures. Plenty of cleaning and snipping/filing flash, some gap filling. Pinning really depends, this particular model absolutely doesn't need any pins. Some stuff with arms pointed out horizontally really wants pinning, but is borderline impossible to do with a piece that small. Pinning is really desired on a few models, but it really depends. Most of the models need a very small amount of greenstuff in the join to get to sit flush with both pieces in full contact. Emphasis on "very small amount", talking about the head of a pin or less worth of green stuff. Also helps with the gluing process because can keep stuff stationary while it sets. Skails posted:This guy looks cool. Most of the blends are good, especially the red fabric. The knee armor and gauntlet stand out as areas that could use some work. They have what looks like one thick edge highlight- it's begging for some blends like you have going on for the rest. You could thin the edge color down with medium, or add a tiny bit of the edge color to the base color to smooth the transition into black. Yeah. That is a good idea. wasnt seeing a way to do anything there because surface area about 1 pubic hair wide. There are some good methods where you do the transition by using a thinned color like that.
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Mar 25, 2019 18:27
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