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That Italian Guy posted:
I have this model in the blister, and I had no idea how much detail it had. Holy crap.
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Mar 25, 2019 18:29
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I didn't get a ton of painting done this week, but I did do some fun stuff. I got the transfers applied to my Jomsvikings for Saga: Age of Vikings. These 5 are done now:  Then yesterday I met up with one of the best painters in my area (I think). He showed me some tips & tricks on painting NMM, brush control and paint consistency. It honestly helped a ton and I've been using way, way too much paint on my models. This is the Plague Marine he worked on. He did NMM tarnished copper/bronze:  I did the guy with the grenade:  Blending like that takes a ton of time and there's no way I'd do it across my entire army, but for characters I'm going to keep trying it.
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Mar 25, 2019 18:59
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Mugaaz posted:I loving hate assembling metal miniatures. Plenty of cleaning and snipping/filing flash, some gap filling. Pinning really depends, this particular model absolutely doesn't need any pins. Some stuff with arms pointed out horizontally really wants pinning, but is borderline impossible to do with a piece that small. Pinning is really desired on a few models, but it really depends. Most of the models need a very small amount of greenstuff in the join to get to sit flush with both pieces in full contact. Emphasis on "very small amount", talking about the head of a pin or less worth of green stuff. Also helps with the gluing process because can keep stuff stationary while it sets. On the other hand, I like working with metal more than plastic. I only just started on plastic models and filing them is a pain. Metal is definitely more effort though. Your super glue should be fresh and joints need to be clean and scored but I've never used green stuff and all my models are solid. Pinning isn't necessary. I mostly do it for the giant robots since they weigh so much but you can pin anything with a small enough bit and some patience.
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Mar 25, 2019 19:07
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If you have good drill bits (do not buy a pack of 20 bits that are only $5; you get what you pay for!) and are willing to practice, pinning quickly becomes so easy that you can just do it as a routine step. I pin everything except stuff like capes, where the depth of the pin would be so shallow that it's useless anyway. One nice thing about pinning is that, once you get the holes drilled and the pin in one side, it becomes a lot easier to attach that part properly; I'm sure we've all had times where we try to glue some fiddly-rear end piece and you can't get it aligned quite right (especially with 3-way joins). Pins make that so much easier. Another thing I do with pewter specifically is to polish it a bit with 000 steel wool. This helps remove any roughness on the surface (though Infinity minis seem very smooth in my limited experience) as well as making it easier to tell if you've smoothed out all the mold lines. With unpolished pewter, the shiny bit where I've removed the mold line makes it really hard for me to tell if I actually got it 100% removed. Finally, if you're having a tough time telling if you removed your mold lines or if your putty is flush with the surface, I use a toothpick that I sharpened with a knife and lightly run it over the surface in question to check. I find it's a lot easier to feel the bumps where something's not right than to see them, especially when you have contrasting colors (e.g. green stuff on top of pewter). Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Mar 25, 2019 |
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Mar 25, 2019 19:18
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Avenging Dentist posted:Another thing I do with pewter specifically is to polish it a bit with 000 steel wool. This helps remove any roughness on the surface (though Infinity minis seem very smooth in my limited experience) as well as making it easier to tell if you've smoothed out all the mold lines. With unpolished pewter, the shiny bit where I've removed the mold line makes it really hard for me to tell if I actually got it 100% removed. Yeah, I use a brass brush for this. It's the last step before I wash the models with dish soap and water.
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Mar 25, 2019 19:27
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That Italian Guy posted:This is very nice. Speaking of Infinity Minis, I finally caved and bought a Yu Jing starter pack cause there is bit of everything and the minis look super fun to paint (the central big guy looks especially fun, since it has a bit of everything). I will ditto the need for fresh CA glue, though. It will make your life orders of magnitude easier, as I found out last weekend when trying to glue together a tiny Nasmat Remote with glue that was past its prime. After I bought fresh glue, assembly was a snap.
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Mar 25, 2019 22:22
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Wrapped up the Venomcrawler   
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Mar 25, 2019 22:23
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BULBASAUR posted:The 30k thread drew straws and I got the short one so I guess I'm responsible for making a new OP for this thread. It might take me about a week to put together or so. I'm going to get a few of our resident painters to contribute to specific sections. If you need something I can help with please let me know.
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Mar 25, 2019 23:00
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Ilor posted:I find that with Infinity minis (especially CB's newer stuff) there is virtually no flash and very minor mold lines. I think the only thing I've ever pinned was a fiddly antenna and the fore-legs on my Maghariba Guard TAG (because it's heavy as gently caress). Most stuff is fine as-is, and the square-lug-and-socket system CB uses for limbs or whatever is really nice in terms of making sure stuff fits well. Occasionally you'll come across something that needs a little bit of extra love (the Tuareg Sniper from the Red Veil/Haqqislam starter box had a tiny miscast that sent people into rages, but if you caught it and filed off the extra little blob of metal caused by a tear in the mold, it went together perfectly). I dunno. Almost every mini I get has a ton of flash. Mold lines are minimal, but the flash is higher than GW's ever was (FW resin is still worse) Still not complaining about the quality, and the lugs make it easier, but some CA stuff is a nightmare to assemble, and I've never understood why koalas, madtraps, tinbots, and whatever can't be cast as one piece
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Mar 25, 2019 23:42
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Who makes a good burnt sienna? I've been using mostly Vallejo stuff but I don't see that in any of their lines, unless it's got some random name I'd never be able to guess.
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Mar 27, 2019 01:48
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Who makes a good burnt sienna? I've been using mostly Vallejo stuff but I don't see that in any of their lines, unless it's got some random name I'd never be able to guess. Cavalry brown?
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Mar 27, 2019 02:09
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WIP Screamers. These make me so happy.
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Mar 27, 2019 04:01
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What would be the best sized magnets to magnetize Space Marine arms?
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Mar 27, 2019 05:15
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:WIP Screamers. These make me so happy. Holy poo poo those look dope. Lisa Frank screamers! Can’t wait to see the finished product!
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Mar 27, 2019 08:18
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:What would be the best sized magnets to magnetize Space Marine arms? 2mm's. Smaller than that is more suitable for hands and I think 3's are too big for where the arm connects to the the torso I think.
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Mar 27, 2019 11:32
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:WIP Screamers. These make me so happy. Loving these. Makes me kinds of want to finally sort out my own airbrush...
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Mar 27, 2019 13:25
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Zark the Damned posted:Loving these. Makes me kinds of want to finally sort out my own airbrush... Yeah every time I see these lovely paint jobs I want to buy an airbrush. Then I'm reminded that I live in an apartment and I don't have a room I could use this is; also that I would probably have to learn everything from scratch. I guess not many skills you learn from painting with brush can be used with an airbrush? Color theory and basic paint behavior on a 3d surface aside, I mean.
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Mar 27, 2019 13:43
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There's not a ton learn with airbrushing. Mostly it's maintenance and cleaning, and eventually if you push towards doing detailed airbrush work, masking. I started off using my airbrush for everything and eventually wound up using my brush for everything except priming cause I could get smoother more precise blends by hand. But, now that I'm playing 40k there's just too many models, so back to the airbrush.
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Mar 27, 2019 14:19
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That Italian Guy posted:Yeah every time I see these lovely paint jobs I want to buy an airbrush. Then I'm reminded that I live in an apartment and I don't have a room I could use this is; also that I would probably have to learn everything from scratch. I guess not many skills you learn from painting with brush can be used with an airbrush? Color theory and basic paint behavior on a 3d surface aside, I mean. My "airbrush setup" is a spray booth on a cheapo folding card table and a compressor on a desk, you can do it! I rely on the fan and filter most of the time these days, I only run vent tubing out of a window if I know I'm going to be priming and basecoating like a whole squad of infantry and I want the extra help.
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Mar 27, 2019 14:20
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My airbrush booth is a cardboard box with a hole cut in it for a fan and a furnace filter. It sits on my dining room table. After several years, my poo poo still isn't covered with paint, and I don't have black lung. (Use a respirator even if you have a full-on vent hood.) It's worth it for priming and pre-shading alone, to say nothing of being able to get a smooth white or yellow without a million tedious coats. It's also a great gateway into scale modeling, which owns bones.
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Mar 27, 2019 14:35
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So the Sparmax TC-620X recced in the OP is close to 400 USD now. Does anybody have a recommendation that's in that 200-250 range?
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Mar 27, 2019 17:00
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everythingWasBees posted:So the Sparmax TC-620X recced in the OP is close to 400 USD now. Does anybody have a recommendation that's in that 200-250 range? Master Airbrush Model TC-40T make sure to buy a BPS to NPT conversion fitting
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Mar 27, 2019 17:16
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grassy gnoll posted:(Use a respirator even if you have a full-on vent hood.) Would having a dog in the house be a concern for an airbrush? It's just me and the pooch, which is to say she loses her loving mind if I close the door and don't allow her to be in the same room for me. I'd wear a mask no problem, but I don't the dog would take well to one 
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Mar 27, 2019 18:46
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Sab669 posted:Would having a dog in the house be a concern for an airbrush? It's just me and the pooch, which is to say she loses her loving mind if I close the door and don't allow her to be in the same room for me. That's a good question, and a big part of it's going to be what you're spraying, but also your dog. I wouldn't put any lacquers through the brush if you want to be on the safe side, but with acrylics you basically just have to worry about particulate hazards. My pets have all been okay being in the house with it. If your pooch has a bad time in the spring, maybe put a box fan in your window to really push some air out, or use a real paint booth with a powered vent fan. Also, depending on your dog, it might freak out at the compressor. It's not like most airbrush compressors are majorly loud, just sometimes dog gonna dog. It's worth checking before you get real heavy into any work.
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Mar 27, 2019 18:54
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My airbrush setup is a cardboard box with some paper towels over the opening, and I keep a window cracked. Also I have a room for hobby stuff and there hasn't been much overspray, so I don't bother with a ventilation setup, I just wear a rebreather and keep an eye on them filters Granted, I don't do a ton of airbrushing.
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Mar 27, 2019 20:00
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I was envisioning having a desk set up window-adjacent with a box fan blowing air out, but still wasn't sure if I should be concerned for her. She doesn't very much like the vacuum cleaner, but then she doesn't even blink when a garbage truck goes by or an fire truck blaring its horn / sirens, so I don't know how she'd deal with the noise. Worst case scenario she'd just leave me alone of her own free will (as opposed to me locking her out of the room against her will). Maybe I'll finally bite the bullet and get one this year. But first I need to make a small desk that would be the right height to sit in front of a window 🤔
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Mar 27, 2019 20:28
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Are any of the affordable (300 or less. Pref a lot less) pre-built spray booths fireproof? Sticking only to non-flammable paints seems rather limiting.
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Mar 27, 2019 22:41
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FW finally releasing blood angel rules got me back to painting my BA, this time with a new red scheme.    
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Mar 28, 2019 05:46
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Booley posted:FW finally releasing blood angel rules got me back to painting my BA, this time with a new red scheme. Holy smokes these are good! The jetpack engines look so good. I am jealous at your ability to edge highlight!
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Mar 28, 2019 05:49
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Booley posted:FW finally releasing blood angel rules got me back to painting my BA, this time with a new red scheme. Nice work dude. I like it more than your fists- its def your style. If you're looking for feedback, one thing I'd consider is doing something more with your basing. Nothing crazy, just something to make it more interesting
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Mar 28, 2019 06:20
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Booley posted:FW finally releasing blood angel rules got me back to painting my BA, this time with a new red scheme.  Seriously, though, they look great! I do agree with Bulbasaur that a little more visual interest on the base would bump it up.
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Mar 28, 2019 06:23
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How do I take perfect photos like that
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Mar 28, 2019 06:45
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Mugaaz posted:How do I take perfect photos like that You need an expensive camera first, this’ll also make your models look better.
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Mar 28, 2019 10:27
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ijyt posted:this’ll also make your models look better. mmmmm big disagree. All it does is make the flaws on my models that much more evident!
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Mar 28, 2019 12:25
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Booley posted:FW finally releasing blood angel rules got me back to painting my BA, this time with a new red scheme. gently caress, the cloak and engines are goddamn incredible.
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Mar 28, 2019 15:28
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I'm so jealous of that smooth brush  I've finished Grumlok and Gazbag. I kinda rushed the job at the end cause it's a very big miniature with a lot of samey bits, but some parts of it were super fun to paint     Open in a new tab for hyuge. Still trying to figure out the mysteries of photography. That Italian Guy fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Mar 28, 2019 |
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Mar 28, 2019 15:40
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I recently bought some Chaos Dwarfs who are pretty poorly painted. My normal stripping method is soaking in methylated spirits and scrubbing hard with a toothbrush, neither of which seems great for resin. I've seen people in this thread recommended an ultrasonic cleaner, but will I still need to scrub with my toothbrush? What should I look for in an ultrasonic cleaner? In a related question, what stripper is best for resin? Something not too chemical like Simple Green?
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Mar 28, 2019 20:22
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Put the models in a ziploc bag filled with Simple Green or Krud Kutter and the rest of the ultrasonic cleaner with water and run it. Yeah, you'll probably need to scrub them a bit.
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Mar 28, 2019 23:14
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Mugaaz posted:How do I take perfect photos like that It's literally his job.
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Mar 28, 2019 23:54
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:WIP Screamers. These make me so happy. FANTASTIC! Mind if I ask which brands/colors those are?
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Mar 28, 2019 23:56
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