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If it's like the GTI (I think it broadly is), DSG fluid should have been changed by now. If it's the FSI engine that was phased out in 07/08, then the timing belt is on deck to be changed soon. My GTI was mechanically pretty sound until it started burning oil at around 110k miles. The A/C went out on it twice (never diagnosed or fixed it the second time). Random electrical issues, but nothing major. Had the wiring to the MAF replaced, but I think that was caused by critters chewing it up. Gotta keep an eye out on the cam shaft follower where the fuel pump connects; an easy check and cheap fix if caught, expensive if you end up replacing cams. (EDIT: link) https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102858 Uthor fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Mar 16, 2019 |
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Mar 16, 2019 21:54
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If you can't find evidence that the cam shaft follower for the high pressure fuel pump hasn't been replaced that is a must-do immediately. I did it myself recently on my FSI motor and it was relatively easy although I did break a plastic retaining clip that kept 2 hoses together. Frustrating because I'm not sure where I'll find that replacement.
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Mar 16, 2019 22:16
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Uthor posted:If it's like the GTI (I think it broadly is), DSG fluid should have been changed by now. If it's the FSI engine that was phased out in 07/08, then the timing belt is on deck to be changed soon. I looked into the Audi service schedule for this car, and yeah theres a 75k mile service. I checked with the seller, and according to him he bought the car at around 75,000 miles and the guy he bought it from had just had that service done right before selling it. The original owner was apparently an airline pilot, so he was hyper vigilant about getting all the required service done. So that's all good news.
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Mar 16, 2019 23:45
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Baxate posted:I looked into the Audi service schedule for this car, and yeah theres a 75k mile service. I checked with the seller, and according to him he bought the car at around 75,000 miles and the guy he bought it from had just had that service done right before selling it. The original owner was apparently an airline pilot, so he was hyper vigilant about getting all the required service done. So that's all good news. Forgive me if you're well versed in buying cars already but the question needs to be "do you have proof of this service being done?", not "was this done?". If there is no documentation in the form of a receipt, it's as good as not having been done. If he tries to say well he never got a receipt from the previous guy then tell him he needs to request it from him (who could get a copy from the shop) or negotiate price on the vehicle as if it hasn't been done. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Mar 17, 2019 |
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Mar 17, 2019 01:18
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VelociBacon posted:Forgive me if you're well versed in buying cars already but the question needs to be "do you have proof of this service being done?", not "was this done?". If there is no documentation in the form of a receipt, it's as good as not having been done. If he tries to say well he never got a receipt from the previous guy then tell him he needs to request it from him (who could get a copy from the shop) or negotiate price on the vehicle as if it hasn't been done. You’re right, I’m a bit naive about this. I’ll be sure to follow up with him on that. If the original owner was as detailed as he says he was, he likely would have given him all the records
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Mar 17, 2019 15:54
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Baxate posted:You’re right, I’m a bit naive about this. I’ll be sure to follow up with him on that. If the original owner was as detailed as he says he was, he likely would have given him all the records For sure. If you're nervous about being aggressive on this you can use the relatively passive argument that it's something you would need to provide when/if you go to sell the car and you can say that you'd have to discount the vehicle yourself to a prospective buyer therefore the car is worth less without the receipt.
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Mar 17, 2019 21:31
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DSG should be flushed every 30k so you might as well do it if you dont have receipts for it
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Mar 18, 2019 19:37
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Did you guys notice that Volkswagen decided to retry the Pontiac Stinger?     VW ID Buggy
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Mar 19, 2019 02:36
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I have a 2011 GTI that has a tire that won't hold air. I hit a pretty nasty pot hole, so I think the rim is either bent or cracked. I can get the wheel repaired, but the security lock is missing. The tire place I used never put it back into my car, and I have moved cross country since then. Is there a reasonable way to get that security lug removed with out it, and without damaging wheel? I have checked youtube and other places and there is a way by hammering an oversized socket, but that seems excessive. I checked with VW dealers in the area, and they don't supply matching replacements anymore (not since about 2013). They can replace them all with a new set if I can get the car there. A tow truck will also not clear the entrance the parking garage where I live. There are some kits I could buy off amazon, but I cannot tell which one would fit other than the one that runs about 83 dollars. That seems a bit much to spend for a one time use. Any suggestions?
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Mar 20, 2019 00:43
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antisodachrist posted:I have a 2011 GTI that has a tire that won't hold air. I hit a pretty nasty pot hole, so I think the rim is either bent or cracked. I can get the wheel repaired, but the security lock is missing. The tire place I used never put it back into my car, and I have moved cross country since then. Is there a reasonable way to get that security lug removed with out it, and without damaging wheel? I have checked youtube and other places and there is a way by hammering an oversized socket, but that seems excessive. I checked with VW dealers in the area, and they don't supply matching replacements anymore (not since about 2013). They can replace them all with a new set if I can get the car there. A tow truck will also not clear the entrance the parking garage where I live. There are parking garages that have clearances inaccessible to any tow truck? What if a car breaks down permanently there?
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Mar 20, 2019 01:32
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antisodachrist posted:I have a 2011 GTI that has a tire that won't hold air. I hit a pretty nasty pot hole, so I think the rim is either bent or cracked. I can get the wheel repaired, but the security lock is missing. The tire place I used never put it back into my car, and I have moved cross country since then. Is there a reasonable way to get that security lug removed with out it, and without damaging wheel? I have checked youtube and other places and there is a way by hammering an oversized socket, but that seems excessive. I checked with VW dealers in the area, and they don't supply matching replacements anymore (not since about 2013). They can replace them all with a new set if I can get the car there. A tow truck will also not clear the entrance the parking garage where I live. Does the lock look like something a large hex key would fit in or does it have the wavy flower pattern? If the former then it is just a cap and you just use a pin or something to pop it out. If the latter, then try joining a GTI group for your area and seeing if anyone has something.
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Mar 20, 2019 09:50
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antisodachrist posted:I have a 2011 GTI that has a tire that won't hold air. I hit a pretty nasty pot hole, so I think the rim is either bent or cracked. I can get the wheel repaired, but the security lock is missing. The tire place I used never put it back into my car, and I have moved cross country since then. Is there a reasonable way to get that security lug removed with out it, and without damaging wheel? I have checked youtube and other places and there is a way by hammering an oversized socket, but that seems excessive. I checked with VW dealers in the area, and they don't supply matching replacements anymore (not since about 2013). They can replace them all with a new set if I can get the car there. A tow truck will also not clear the entrance the parking garage where I live. Put your spare on and drive to one of the dealers that said they can take it off? e: HEH early morning posts got me again, jesus. Which wheels do you have on the car? Do the bolts protrude at all or are they sitting flush? VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Mar 20, 2019 |
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Mar 20, 2019 12:37
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How???
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Mar 20, 2019 12:37
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antisodachrist posted:I have checked youtube and other places and there is a way by hammering an oversized socket, but that seems excessive. This is usually the answer + an impact gun.
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Mar 20, 2019 14:00
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Hey y'all, got sent here from another thread; my VW GTI is coming up on needing a timing belt replacement - anyone have suggestions of where to go in the area of Chapel Hill, NC? Figure it's a long shot but may as well ask, right?!
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Mar 20, 2019 21:27
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black.lion posted:Hey y'all, got sent here from another thread; my VW GTI is coming up on needing a timing belt replacement - anyone have suggestions of where to go in the area of Chapel Hill, NC? Figure it's a long shot but may as well ask, right?! Apex Tuning and Black Forest Industries are both in the triangle and are great at all things German performance. You pay for that specialization though. Outside of them and dealerships I never had much luck.
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Mar 21, 2019 00:06
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I was able to find a matching security key for the wheels on eBay. Just need to wait for the part.
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Mar 21, 2019 00:13
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I got a 2012 GTI about a year and a half ago with 56k miles on it. I’m at 91k now and within the past 6 months have had the following work done on it: replace stuck rear caliper and e-brake cable, replace slipping clutch (manual, not a clutch popping crazy driver), replace bad front driver wheel bearing (yesterday), replace oil separator and have carbon removed from intake valves (today, literally had check engine light pop on hours after getting the bearing replaced). My extended warranty has officially paid for itself for what few items it has covered, but this seems a little excessive for problems before 100k miles. I made it to 200k on a mazda3 without needing a new clutch. Is the carbon removal just an expected maintenance thing with DI engines? It’s costing $900 at the dealer I took it to.
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Mar 22, 2019 22:27
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The carbon buildup in my 2010 GTI intake manifold was due to me driving across the street to work every day for only 5 minutes, which never gave the engine a chance to warm up and clear it out. The dealer mechanic told me I needed to drive it harder to push that poo poo out. Now that I have a 17 mile drive one-way to work that is no longer a problem! From what it sounded like though this wasn't a rare occurrence for these engines.
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Mar 22, 2019 23:29
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Nuts and Gum posted:The carbon buildup in my 2010 GTI intake manifold was due to me driving across the street to work every day for only 5 minutes, which never gave the engine a chance to warm up and clear it out. The dealer mechanic told me I needed to drive it harder to push that poo poo out. Now that I have a 17 mile drive one-way to work that is no longer a problem! Yea, 26 miles to/from work every day for me. That likely adds to my problems though since I put a lot of mileage on it, in western NY no less
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Mar 23, 2019 02:10
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Find a local mechanic, my guy down in NoVA will do carbon cleanings for like half that price.
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Mar 23, 2019 03:45
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Etrips posted:Find a local mechanic, my guy down in NoVA will do carbon cleanings for like half that price. I really should have shopped around 
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Mar 23, 2019 04:42
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Etrips posted:Find a local mechanic, my guy down in NoVA will do carbon cleanings for like half that price. That’s my problem, I don’t know who to trust. I’ve been to multiple places over the years and always seem to deal with bs. Went through 2 new bearings in 2 years on the Mazda because of after market garbage. They were cheap though!
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Mar 23, 2019 13:07
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That’s why I stick to the dealer, once you spend enough money with them a loaner is pretty much automatic. 
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Mar 23, 2019 13:53
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devmd01 posted:That’s why I stick to the dealer, once you spend enough money with them a loaner is pretty much automatic. Thats ultimately why I kept going back. That or before I got a loaner they'd give me a free ride to/from work.
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Mar 24, 2019 07:09
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A loaner is pretty drat nice. It is definitely what keeps me going to the dealer for whatever BS 1 hour service or oil change I need done instead of saving $50 and going to an indie place. If I ever drew a short straw and needed like $2k worth of mechanical work or whatever, the cost gap would be much wider on an hours basis so I'd go to the indie place. It's rare or impossible around me to get a test drive without a salesperson in the car so you can really hoon, and that's pretty much what I use it for. Something Offal fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Mar 24, 2019 |
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Mar 24, 2019 20:48
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e: dunno how that double post happened ??
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Mar 25, 2019 00:06
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willroc7 posted:I've gone ahead and done it. Wish me luck boys. 
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Mar 25, 2019 00:07
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Well...I don't post here often but I figured this would be some news. Pay to play finally paid me a visit, haha. I have a 2016 Golf R with stage 2 hardware and a custom tune with the Cobb Accessport. I recently got a clutch replacement for a BFI stage 4 kit. The clutch was great and I could finally put all the power to the ground. Last week during a 2nd gear pull at about 3/4 throttle it seems the stock IS38 turbo could not take any more abuse and let go on me. The car only had about 26K miles and ran a JB4 from 800 miles. The Cobb tune has been on the car for about a year. The engine will be pulled due to the amount of fine metal in the oil and filter (pictures below). Integrated Engineering will re-build the motor using their short block engine build kit. As for now I will go with the Tomioka IHX475 turbo kit. I would like to keep the car more of a daily driver with good response. This has been an interesting journey and I guess it was a matter of time this was going to happen to one of my cars. The tune would only peak at 28 psi where I have seen some people push up to 30+. Don't really know why the turbo decided to let go but I am in Utah at about 4500ft elevation. Should be a fun upgrade even if it was a little unexpected. I'll update when the motor is pulled and we can see if it was just the turbo that let go or if additional things were at play. pics...Loud pop...smoke show and I shut engine off about 15 sec later. No check engine light and engine idled normal before shut off. Oil filter cut open to show metal shavings  Turbo looking through intake port..was told it was stuck solid  Oil in oil drain pan...shiny oil with antifreeze it seems  Oil in bottom of oil pan...again shiny and milky. 
mrtrunks84 fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Mar 25, 2019 |
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Mar 25, 2019 01:39
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mrtrunks84 posted:Well...I don't post here often but I figured this would be some news. Pay to play finally paid me a visit, haha. I have a 2016 Golf R with stage 2 hardware and a custom tune with the Cobb Accessport. I recently got a clutch replacement for a BFI stage 4 kit. The clutch was great and I could finally put all the power to the ground. Last week during a 2nd gear pull at about 3/4 throttle it seems the stock IS38 turbo could not take any more abuse and let go on me. The car only had about 26K miles and ran a JB4 from 800 miles. The Cobb tune has been on the car for about a year. The engine will be pulled due to the amount of fine metal in the oil and filter (pictures below). Integrated Engineering will re-build the motor using their short block engine build kit. As for now I will go with the Tomioka IHX475 turbo kit. I would like to keep the car more of a daily driver with good response. This has been an interesting journey and I guess it was a matter of time this was going to happen to one of my cars. The tune would only peak at 28 psi where I have seen some people push up to 30+. Don't really know why the turbo decided to let go but I am in Utah at about 4500ft elevation. Should be a fun upgrade even if it was a little unexpected. I'll update when the motor is pulled and we can see if it was just the turbo that let go or if additional things were at play. For someone who doesn't know much about this stuff like me could you annotate some of those pics, what are we looking at? Also how much is this gonna cost you for that work on a '16 Golf R?
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Mar 25, 2019 02:18
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Updated my post to help out a little. As for the service, it will come to about $10K. The two other options were a refurbished stock engine from VW for $7K plus labor (newer motors are expensive) and the cheapest option was to flush the engine, throw on a new turbo and hope for the best. The shop of course didn't suggest the cheapest option as it could eventually lead to an engine rebuild with another new turbo. They are also going to resurface the head and upgrade the spring retainers for higher rev reliability. Plus, now I get a stronger engine with slightly larger (and stronger) turbo. I remember some of the early turbo's (IS20) were at risk for weaknesses with GTI's blowing turbo's with stock power. I have not seen any stock Golf R's blowing turbos.
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Mar 25, 2019 03:08
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mrtrunks84 posted:I have not seen any stock Golf R's blowing turbos. I could have sworn this was an issue with the early mk7 R's e: Yup. What's your build date? Looks like there was a revision to the turbo at some point in 2015. fknlo fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Mar 25, 2019 |
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Mar 25, 2019 03:32
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Don't know the build date right now but it was purchased in Dec 2015.
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Mar 25, 2019 03:41
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mrtrunks84 posted:Don't know the build date right now but it was purchased in Dec 2015. Google Golf R blown turbo and you'll get a few results. It looks like they may have been replacing them at some point early on, you might want to see if that's still a thing if you have one of the early revision turbos.
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Mar 25, 2019 03:44
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Early 2015 GTI with IS20s had issues with turbos going. IS38s in general are already know to be pretty weak overall.
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Mar 25, 2019 08:45
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From what I can tell, it seems the hybrid turbos all have increased shaft size and larger journal bearings to alleviate some of those shortcomings. Tomioka seems to be a pretty reliable manufacture in the turbo world and they say their turbos are all new and not rebuilt IS38s. Hopefully this should not be an issue in the future. I wish I could splurge for a modified GTX or Xona turbo but the engine rebuild kinda sucked my fun money dry for the season. Plus, then I would have to worry about fueling upgrades to get any power benefits from those turbos. I wish Cobb would hurry up and support MPI on their tunes. According to my tuner, they are working on getting it out as fast as possible. Sorry for the ramblings, so many decisions.
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Mar 25, 2019 15:21
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You all are over here dropping serious $ tuning your newer-than-mine R's and really squeezing out their performance, while I'm just making payments & racking up the miles. Mine's a '13 with 114k on it now, and all I've really done besides maintenance are tint job and lowering springs. Sometimes I feel like this car should go to someone who doesn't use it as a commuter - I'd be better off putting miles on a leaf or a prius or something. But then, it puts a smile on my face every day I drive it, which is every day, and in the end it's what matters. Snow tires just came off in favor of some  bling blingin' A8 Monoblocks. The stock wheels are getting sold off piecemeal as I'd seriously damaged one of them against a curb last November. (150/ea goon price if you want one, I have two. chicago area) 
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Mar 25, 2019 16:33
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NoWake posted:You all are over here dropping serious $ tuning your newer-than-mine R's and really squeezing out their performance, while I'm just making payments & racking up the miles. Mine's a '13 with 114k on it now, and all I've really done besides maintenance are tint job and lowering springs. Sometimes I feel like this car should go to someone who doesn't use it as a commuter - I'd be better off putting miles on a leaf or a prius or something. But then, it puts a smile on my face every day I drive it, which is every day, and in the end it's what matters. At that price keep your old wheels for putting snow tires on.
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Mar 25, 2019 19:15
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VelociBacon posted:At that price keep your old wheels for putting snow tires on. If I could find someone selling one for what I'm asking, I'd have picked it up. Refurbished replacements retail between $250-$325+shipping, and I've already got a winter set. https://i.imgur.com/UzgQpc0.mp4 https://i.imgur.com/BVqtrXI.mp4 Can't really trust the tire to swap back onto a replacement, and the rest of the set has at most another season left before they're down to the wear bars, so I'd need a fresh set of rubber, quoted $550 installed for some Firestones. Add it all up plus tax, I'd be in around $900 for a new wheel & tires just to get the winters off this spring. The monoblocks I found with 4 fresh tires mounted for $700, so it was a no-brainer. I've already sold one of the OEM alloys, down to 2 now, so pretty committed on saying goodbye to them.
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Mar 25, 2019 20:56
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Oh man watching that was painful. Just dropped off my mk5 GTI for an oil change and replacement of the loom connector on the diverter valve because I hosed it up when removing it. Whoops!
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Mar 25, 2019 21:28
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