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Those lock nuts are ordinary lug nets, just with a keyed head. They don't "lock" in the sense of getting tighter than normal ones. Missing a lug nut is fine for, like, moving the car around at parking lot speeds, but absolutely don't go on even small side roads like that.
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Mar 26, 2019 03:17
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If you didn't need 5 lugs and nuts to hold your wheels on, the people who made your car would only have put on 4.
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Mar 26, 2019 03:25
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Everyone else already answered the first two questions with the proper resounding NO, so I'll take on the third. Getting the stud replaced shouldn't be very expensive, it's actually not even that bad of a DIY job on most cars. http://knowhow.napaonline.com/dealing-with-a-broken-wheel-stud/
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Mar 26, 2019 05:28
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I'll take the other position and say do it, but only after sticking a go pro on the side of the car facing that wheel.
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Mar 26, 2019 06:00
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Have gf's shitbox for the week while she flies somewhere for some reason. I feel bad for ever calling my van a shitbox, because at least it doesn't do this poo poo https://i.imgur.com/2CBzltv.mp4 Can I unfuck this without purchasing parts? Like it looks like the reflector is maybe rotated 90 degrees (ish) or something. e: it's an old Datsun/Nissan pickup, I know nothing further about it than that at this point Javid fucked around with this message at 12:59 on Mar 26, 2019 |
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Mar 26, 2019 12:55
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When you say "old", do you mean old enough to have sealed-beam headlights? Something's definitely fucky but I don't see how it could get that out of whack with normal modern housings.
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Mar 26, 2019 13:37
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Looks like there's a crack in the reflector or lens if it's a newer headlight design (with replaceable bulbs) If it's old enough to have sealed-beam units, then the bucket it sits in is way out of whack. Was there a front-end hit?
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Mar 26, 2019 13:40
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I have no specific knowledge of its history, but probably yeah. It's old enough that it has the big mark at 55 mph on the speedo still.
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Mar 26, 2019 13:48
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Heh, I'm pretty sure my '90 Escort had the 55 marked.
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Mar 26, 2019 14:33
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C-Bangin' it 
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PainterofCrap posted:Looks like there's a crack in the reflector or lens if it's a newer headlight design (with replaceable bulbs) I think it's almost gotta be sealed beams. When the high beams come on, the passenger light goes up like it should, but the driver light goes left. Pictures I see of older Nissan/Datsuns have sealed beams, but they're rectangular. I'd think it would be pretty obvious if it were crooked enough to warp the beam like that. Javid, take pictures. We crave an answer to this mystery.
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Mar 26, 2019 15:02
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Hopefully this is a first for AI, but I have a 2010 Hyundai Accent that's weak af but gets me tootin' around just fine. I only started driving in earnest about a year ago and use the car maybe ... 3x a week or so. I don't fill up the tank much. Twice now this has happened — I go to the gas station, everything going fine up until my tank starts getting full. Then right after the auto shut-off, gas spills out and all over the back of my car like it's overflowed. Pumping gas is enough of a motor memory thing that I can't figure out why this is happening and obviously I don't want to recreate it. The only theories I can reason: - I somehow suck at pumping gas these days? But even if I were to keep pressing the handle, wouldn't it not keep pumping gas after the auto-stop? Along those same lines, even if I'm inadvertently "topping it off," wouldn't it ... only be a lil bit of gas? - Something is wrong with my car 
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Mar 26, 2019 18:20
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Chunjee posted:If you can find someone with one of those coil slappers, that would be free. Otherwise they are $80-$150 :\ drat for that price I could get most/all new coils.  Another crappy thing is that for some reason there aren't any MAF/Throttle Body/Carb cleaners to buy in Sweden anymore (that I can find). I suspect something in them got banned, maybe? Now I'm stuck with brake clean / electronics cleaner, neither which I'm led to believe are very good at removing carbon. Finding very contradictory information regarding how safe brake clean is on MAF/Throttle body as well. Sigh..
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Mar 26, 2019 21:07
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jimmychoo posted:Hopefully this is a first for AI, but I have a 2010 Hyundai Accent that's weak af but gets me tootin' around just fine. I only started driving in earnest about a year ago and use the car maybe ... 3x a week or so. I don't fill up the tank much. Is it the same station both times? That happened to me once and I fixed it by never going to that station again.
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Mar 26, 2019 22:58
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Update It looks like somebody just slapped it in there in a hurry and never thought about it again.  at least it was a quick fix.E: also I was mistaken, it is a 1980 Toyota pickup. No model name, just "PU" on the reg. Everything about this turd makes me feel better about my own vehicles. Javid fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Mar 26, 2019 |
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Mar 26, 2019 23:46
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Javid posted:Update Sealed beam for the... lose?
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Mar 26, 2019 23:48
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The days before poke-yoke 
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Mar 27, 2019 00:01
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 I can and can't believe that was actually the problem.
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Mar 27, 2019 00:04
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Godholio posted:
It looked like that was exactly the problem, but having installed a few of those I wasn't aware you could.
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Mar 27, 2019 01:14
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Yeah, there should be dimples & recesses etc that make installing a sealed-beam a no-brainer. I mean, it took some effort to mount it like that. (edit) good luck finding those turn-signal & side-marker lenses.
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Mar 27, 2019 01:37
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jimmychoo posted:Hopefully this is a first for AI, but I have a 2010 Hyundai Accent that's weak af but gets me tootin' around just fine. I only started driving in earnest about a year ago and use the car maybe ... 3x a week or so. I don't fill up the tank much. I had that problem with my car (LS400) for years until it got totaled, from what I read online there was some hose connected to the filler neck that vented gas fumes back to a charcoal canister, and if it got clogged it could cause the problem. Mine did it pretty consistently, but I just learned to not stand right next to it when it was about to auto shutoff and I could avoid getting sprayed with gas.
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Mar 27, 2019 01:46
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Xposting from the A/T thread: What should I know about the first generation Genesis sedan? I'm trying to help a friend make a good/bad decision (overall good, but not boring/practical). I think it's cool as hell and fits his desire for luxurious and is slightly head-turning, the other option would probably be a seventh-generation Charger. There's a base-model Genesis with 105k miles and slight hail damage for $6k, which seems like a fantastic deal assuming it's not going to fall apart.
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Mar 27, 2019 02:39
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PainterofCrap posted:If it's old enough to have sealed-beam units, then the bucket it sits in is way out of whack. Was there a front-end hit? YEP  There are three screws that hold down that clamping ring over the beam. Two of them were in use. I'm guessing whatever part aligns the beam got mangled in whatever collision happened there. Probably a deer, around here. So I guess I get to effort finding a wall I can aim headlights with now.
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Mar 27, 2019 02:51
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sirr0bin posted:2015 F150 with the 5.0 V8. Can the VCT solenoids be replaced without removing the front timing cover? Does the computer need to be told it has new sensors or are they plug and play? It's having occasional rough idle/stalling issues and I'm trying to fix it for the least amout of money. I sure hope it's not failed cam phasers. Bumping in case anyone is familiar with the coyote v8
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Mar 27, 2019 03:11
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Javid posted:E: also I was mistaken, it is a 1980 Toyota pickup. No model name, just "PU" on the reg. Everything about this turd makes me feel better about my own vehicles. I'll give you a pass for not knowing that Toyota sold it simply as the truck (in the US/Canada), no model name, until the 1995 model year (when it became the Tacoma). It's always been sold as the Hilux outside of North America. Nissan similarly sold their trucks without a model name for a long time, though people commonly call them by their chassis designation, or call the most common ones (the D21 generation) "Nissan hardbody". (the previous generation is usually called a 720) Mixing up Toyota and Datsun though. I gotta give you a LITTLE poo poo. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Mar 27, 2019 |
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Mar 27, 2019 05:26
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They all embody the archetype of "tiny little micro-truck that basically doesn't exist in MY 2019" I guess? As lovely as it is, hooning around in a manual has been fun.
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Mar 27, 2019 05:48
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is it normal for a stationary car (specifically 2018 Prius Two) not to deploy airbags when it's rear ended by an SUV going 30-35mph?
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Mar 27, 2019 19:09
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indigi posted:is it normal for a stationary car (specifically 2018 Prius Two) not to deploy airbags when it's rear ended by an SUV going 30-35mph? Yes. Why would they deploy? They are protecting the occupants in the entirely wrong direction. The seats are the safety device in this case.
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Mar 27, 2019 19:14
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well I hit my head on the side where the door opens, whatever it's called, but it wasn't too bad I suppose. just seemed weird that the entire back crumpled in and none of the airbags went off. that makes sense though
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Mar 27, 2019 19:19
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Which way do you think your head goes in a rear end accident?
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Mar 27, 2019 19:20
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well my head hit the side of the car, so in my case I'd say it went backward and to the left
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Mar 27, 2019 19:21
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If your car is equipped with rear curtain air bags then yea they probably should have gone off. If not, then everything sounds normal.
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Mar 27, 2019 19:27
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Kibbles n Shits posted:If your car is equipped with rear curtain air bags then yea they probably should have gone off. If not, then everything sounds normal. ah yeah sorry for not being more specific, I meant the curtain jawns. I'll ask the insurance adjuster about it but it didn't turn out to be a big deal in the end so w/e, just seemed odd. thanks for the info everyone
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Mar 27, 2019 19:31
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indigi posted:it didn't turn out to be a big deal in the end Meaning the side impact wasn't enough to warrant hitting you in the side of the head with a bunch of plastic trim and an exploding bag, which has a high potential for injuring you even more. Getting hit with an airbag sucks. Sounds like your vehicle operated exactly as designed.
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Mar 27, 2019 21:02
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Now that I'm driving my project car a bit more regularly (still not on the highway yet) I'm tracking energy consumption. However, I have noticed a discrepancy. Today I drove to work a route that google says is 19 miles, but my odometer only registered 15.3 miles, a near-20% deficit! I have not (yet) replaced the wheels and tires, though I plan to do so (larger wheel, lower profile tire, roughly same OD). The tires currently on the car are 195/70R14, which according to my searches online is the stock size. The speedo/odometer sensor is in the stock transmission, which I've retained. Is this typical error for a 40 year old car, or is something else going on here? Is there anything I can do to get more accurate readings out of the odometer?
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Mar 27, 2019 21:49
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My best guess (not knowing what car it is) would be a slipping odometer sprocket, quite a few cars of that era had gears pressed on shafts that eventually start slipping with age, especially with European brands. If it is that taking it apart and either roughing up the shafts and reinserting the gears or carefully adding glue should fix it. 20% is way more than tire wear would explain. Is the speedometer off too?
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Mar 28, 2019 01:39
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bawfuls posted:Now that I'm driving my project car a bit more regularly (still not on the highway yet) I'm tracking energy consumption. However, I have noticed a discrepancy. You might try driving down a highway with mile markers and seeing how close that is. I'm assuming they have more accuracy than a Google maps route. Something like 10 miles so the math is easy. Combine that with a cell phone GPS speedometer like on Waze or Torque to compare the mechanical speedo. It may have just been bad when new too.
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Mar 28, 2019 04:09
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So the van I bought is the first vehicle I've owned that doesn't do the warning chime if you try to get out without switching off the headlights. The PO thoughtfully put a label on the instrument cluster that says "LIGHTS!!!!". Made it two weeks, it's currently sitting on my trickle charger. Obviously the optimimum thing is to not be a forgetful idiot and run my battery completely flat... ambitious me would like to finally get around to learning how to Arduino and rig an "auto" circuit that shuts off the lights if the ignition is in the off position (with a bypass to stock in case I need it), but I am pretty time-poor at the moment. In the meantime, I bought this thing with the intention of turning it into a DIY camper, so was already planning on installing a secondary battery. It would be pretty advantageous if I could start off that too... am guessing I'd want a manual switch for the isolator in that case, rather than an automatic one, right? What sort of battery would be the best compromise for "mostly running 12V accessories, but also starting the van on occasion"?
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Mar 28, 2019 11:30
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Corla Plankun posted:Is it the same station both times? That happened to me once and I fixed it by never going to that station again. not the same station i think i just started sucking at pumping gas somehow
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Mar 28, 2019 15:22
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Ethics_Gradient posted:So the van I bought is the first vehicle I've owned that doesn't do the warning chime if you try to get out without switching off the headlights. The PO thoughtfully put a label on the instrument cluster that says "LIGHTS!!!!". Made it two weeks, it's currently sitting on my trickle charger. I've been thinking about the headlight thing recently and it wouldn't take any fancy Arduino poo poo, just a relay, triggered by key-on power. As for the battery question, if you were to search through my posts in this thread, I have been in the middle of such a van build for a while and have likely covered a lot of the same issues as you will have. The battery and isolator switch thing specifically I remember asking and getting info about
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Mar 28, 2019 16:38
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jimmychoo posted:not the same station Guess it is time for you to move to Oregon or NJ.
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Mar 28, 2019 18:09
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