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Motronic posted:Those are wiring diagrams for the same ballast - I have no idea what the "WD" designation is for. Probably "wiring diagram". The same ballast can be used in both 1 and 2 lamp fixtures.
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Mar 23, 2019 18:17
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Greatest Living Man posted:Crossposting from the quick questions thread: Hi all, Finally have some free time to work on this. I think the easiest way is to replace the outlet as others have suggested. Here's what it looks like on the inside and a pic of the breaker it's connected to: https://imgur.com/a/q2gYmKM So from what I can tell, we have black (pos), red (neg), white (neutral) and a copper ground for 250 V. Breaker is 30 A. To adapt this to a NEMA L5-30R, can I simply cap off one live wire, or is that somehow unsafe? So the config would be black (or red?), white, ground to a NEMA L5-30R outlet for 125 V / 30 A. OSHA e: yes, breaker was off when I took the wiring pic. e2: The other suggestions were to pull the breaker and replace it with two single-pole breakers, but I feel less comfortable doing that than simply replacing the outlet. Greatest Living Man fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Mar 24, 2019 |
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Mar 24, 2019 22:20
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Greatest Living Man posted:Hi all, If you want straight blade lose the 'L' in your model. A 5-30R is a straight blade 125v 30amp receptacle. An L5-30R is the twist lock variety of it. A 5-30P plugs into a 5-30R and an L5-30P plugs into a L5-30R. Red is also hot. The closest thing to negative you have there is neutral. Capping the red should be fine. Just make sure the nut is on there tightly. The package should say it's rated for 1x#10 in the long list of wires it supports. Or email stayonline.com and tell them exactly what you need. (L14-30P to 5-30R) H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Mar 24, 2019 |
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Mar 24, 2019 22:32
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H110Hawk posted:If you want straight blade lose the 'L' in your model. A 5-30R is a straight blade 125v 30amp receptacle. An L5-30R is the twist lock variety of it. A 5-30P plugs into a 5-30R and an L5-30P plugs into a L5-30R. Thanks for the explanation of NEMA conventions. The plug is a L5-30P, curved blade, so I want a L5-30R. The current outlet is straight blade (14-30R). As far as I can tell, the main benefit of buying an special outlet specific to the 14-30R -> L5-30R conversion would be to have a very secure terminal for the unused hot wire. I will go with a standard outlet and a cap unless someone scares me out of it.
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Mar 24, 2019 22:55
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Greatest Living Man posted:Right, both red and black are hot -- are they both +125 V? You have split phase power. Red is one phase, black is the other. Either phase to neutral is 120v. Phase to phase is 240v.
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Mar 24, 2019 23:33
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angryrobots posted:I think what is confusing is that your old ballast was magnetic start and I think polarity was important where on the new electronic start it doesn't matter. This was the reassurance I needed. So loving spot on, thanks dude.  I have UV again. (the detection circuit is still hosed up so I bypassed it, but that's just another  in parts to make it 100% right)
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Mar 26, 2019 04:07
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Glad I could help you obtain fresh, pure water to replenish your precious bodily fluids
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Mar 26, 2019 04:49
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Got a new stove, and I'm trying to install a flush-mount receptacle for it. The current receptacle was mounted on the floor, and kept the old and new stoves from being flush with the wall. It wasn't as big a deal with the old one, but the new one needs to be flush. I'm just not sure about the wires I got. Here's the new receptacle, saying it's only for non-grounded, and the existing 6/2 that is 2 hots and an unsheathed ground(neutral?)   Is this the right way to do this? Because I have to move the location of the outlet a foot or so, I have to splice the 6/2 as well. That's going to be 3 split bolt connectors, wrapped up in a few layers of tape, and put into a junction box in the basement, yeah?
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Mar 31, 2019 16:47
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DrBouvenstein posted:
That's the acceptable way for this installation. Not ideal in any way, and probably wouldn't pass an inspection, but it will work. Make sure the ground wire in that cable is landed on the neutral bus in your panel and the new stove has a neutral-ground bonding jumper inside. If there's no jumper, you're going to have to run a ground wire to that box and install a 4-wire plug.
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Mar 31, 2019 19:54
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Also make sure you get a double gang old work box. That receptacle is designed to fit right in the middle of it.
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Mar 31, 2019 20:49
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You know this PVC conduit junction boxes? The ones with no holes? Do I drill holes in for box adapters and cement them into place? You'd think this would be an easy question at Lowes or Google, but all I get are the threaded type and boxes that already have holes.
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Apr 2, 2019 04:07
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Can you post a picture of the box in question?
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Apr 2, 2019 04:50
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This kind of thing: https://www.lowes.com/pd/CARLON-Gray-Weatherproof-Pvc-Junction-Box/3256598
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Apr 2, 2019 05:43
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that's how I've seen them used
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Apr 2, 2019 06:00
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:that's how I've seen them used Follow-up then: if I am running 3/4" conduit, do I get 1" breakouts? I had gotten 3/4" only to discover they are flush with the conduit--unless I use the flared end.
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Apr 2, 2019 06:06
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Follow-up then: if I am running 3/4" conduit, do I get 1" breakouts? I had gotten 3/4" only to discover they are flush with the conduit--unless I use the flared end. Answering my own question here, but no, don't use the 1" ones. What surprises my about the whole thing is it looks like I have to install the conduit at the same time as the breakout. This is because I have to slide it through from the inside to the outside. I'll have cement all over it so I better get the pipe--or at least a coupling--on at the same time. It kind of betrays how I have worked with the stuff with other kinds of couplings so it just didn't seem right.
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Apr 2, 2019 17:07
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You need to use male adapters with lock rings
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Apr 2, 2019 18:32
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angryrobots posted:You need to use male adapters with lock rings Okay so I have to use stuff with threads?
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Apr 2, 2019 19:20
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Yes a male adapter. You glue that onto the pipe and the threads go in the box.
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Apr 2, 2019 20:15
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Are there any common alternate names for the lock rings? Nuts? I'm thinking of something like those nuts for schedule 40 but I don't think I've seen that for electrical conduit. I think I can get a bushing or even just a female adapter, but that's kind of large an excessive for what is basically a giant nut.
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Apr 2, 2019 21:00
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3/4 male adapter lock nut
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Apr 2, 2019 21:27
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No fair! I was searching for PVC!
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Apr 2, 2019 22:15
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Man, everybody today wants LED in everything and I am now troubleshooting the following: Recessed cans. 4 in one line, 4 in another. New construction cans, not remodeling. Both lines of four are each on a 3-way. All one lighting circuit. Other lights in this kitchen are fine (pendants). SO - homeowner wanted those LED trim rings and dimmers. Operation worked fine with temps (bulbs, not kits) in while drywallers and cabinet guys were doing there thing. On/Off of 3-ways works fine but any aspect of dimmer causes them to pulse like a nightclub. I'm using Leviton 3-way slide dimmers (rated for CFL, LED, Incandescent, etc) and Commercial Electric trim kits. From what I've read in supplied instructions - trim kits recommend using Lutron dimmers. Other thing I read is that dimmer instructions say I should only have a dimmer at one end, but that seems weird and I don't think the homeowner would like this. I'm thinking I hosed up on the dimmer compatibility. (I really, really, hate some of this LED poo poo...)
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Apr 4, 2019 00:40
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Ferrule posted:dimmer instructions say I should only have a dimmer at one end This is the problem. There might be solutions using "smart" devices, but your standard dimmer can't work with other dimmers on the same 3/4 way group. Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Apr 4, 2019 |
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Apr 4, 2019 00:55
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They make special dimmer sets for three way with control at each end, but one is the master. Otherwise, a three way dimmer and a normal three way at the other end.
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Apr 4, 2019 01:01
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So I should get this master dimmer? Or just save myself the headache and let the homeowner deal with having a dimmer at only one end?
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Apr 4, 2019 01:11
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Check the price then decide with them. I don't want to pile on, but for browsers doing their own home lighting projects you should go LED for everything you can in my mind. Prices are low, quality and lifespan are good and getting better, and of course you save on energy. Also, don't use recessed cans in new projects; you can just use a standard round nail-on box and a 6" disc LED (or whatever) that mounts directly to the box which will save you money both on the equipment and installation time. edit: sounds like you weren't planning LEDs which is why the cans; really not trying to criticize so much as just put it out there for anyone else Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Apr 4, 2019 |
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Apr 4, 2019 01:28
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Blackbeer posted:Also, don't use recessed cans in new projects; you can just use a standard round nail-on box and a 6" disc LED (or whatever) that mounts directly to the box which will save you money both on the equipment and installation time. I don't know. I think there are still major advantages to using cans like the fact that the bulbs are easily replaceable and dirt cheap. If there's ever an issue with a light, Joe Homeowner can pop a new $2 bulb from Home Depot instead of installing a new fixture or hoping for replacement parts for some specific integrated unit. The cans can also use Hue bulbs or you can change the color temp after you get sick of your kitchen looking like a hospital. About the only downside to cans besides cost is the insulating around them, though many are IC rated, and it doesn't practically matter with a cool LED in there instead of a hot rear end incandescent.
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Apr 4, 2019 01:57
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B-Nasty posted:I don't know. I think there are still major advantages to using cans like the fact that the bulbs are easily replaceable and dirt cheap. If there's ever an issue with a light, Joe Homeowner can pop a new $2 bulb from Home Depot instead of installing a new fixture or hoping for replacement parts for some specific integrated unit. The cans can also use Hue bulbs or you can change the color temp after you get sick of your kitchen looking like a hospital. The newer LED are rated for 50,000 hours (obviously just an expected average and you're trusting the manufacturer) and the newest/coming soon ones are 80 to 100K hours. When you can get that many hours out of a sub $20 (or $10 buying in bulk) LED I have a hard time not going LED. I never thought about the Hue bulbs, that's a good point. The box-mounted LED discs are just two screws and three wire-nuts, but yeah, more complicated than screwing in a bulb. The box-mounted ones are just so easy to install that I think you'd def save money on a large job even if you hired someone to replace the LEDs as they failed down the road.
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Apr 4, 2019 02:10
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Problem is... do you buy a bunch of spares for when one or two do eventually fail, or do you count on the manufacturer still having them available at that point? I've run into availability issues with regular can retrofits in my own home. One crapped, Home Depot still carried it. Another crapped, and goddamnit, it had been discontinued for over a year. I wound up changing all of them out to keep them matching. Same thing with screw-in LED floods in the same house. The living room ceiling is too high to easily reach with a typical homeowner special ladder - standing on the "DO NOT STAND ON THIS STEP" part of the ladder, I could barely touch the bulbs with my fingertips [/OSHA], so those got screw-in replacements. When one died, I wound up replacing all of them to keep them matching (both in appearance and color temp) - I couldn't find a matching bulb anymore.
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Apr 4, 2019 07:16
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If I have learned anything about spare light bulbs, it's that the clock is ticking on them even in their packaging. I had a bout with can lights where my replacements were dying rapidly. This would imply something bad with the can or circuit, but newly-purchased bulbs were fine. From what I saw online, this is apparently a thing.
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Apr 4, 2019 08:38
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STR posted:Problem is... do you buy a bunch of spares for when one or two do eventually fail, or do you count on the manufacturer still having them available at that point? I came across an interesting article a while back where someone working in an art museum that was using super high CRI LEDs noticed that the new bulbs he installed were noticeably different in temperature from the identical (as in from the same crate) ones he installed a few years back on the next painting over. Not necessarily enough to notice moving from one room to another, but certainly apparent side-by-side. http://www.ledbenchmark.com/faq/Color-Shift.html quote:FAQ - Color shift and stability of LED lights And a deep dive here: https://inside.lighting/news/what-you-should-know-about-led-fixture-reliability-color-shift One thing about incandescants: the black-body spectrum doesn't change over time... But based on my own experience with random bulbs developing buzzing and/or entering failure modes (like occasional brief flicker) before their siblings, I'd reduce any lifetime estimate given by manufacturers to about 50-75% of listed after accounting for bad bulbs needing replacement. Hubis fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Apr 4, 2019 |
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Apr 4, 2019 14:48
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I bought a 40 pack of Feit LED 3000K 60W equivalent light bulbs from Costco to replace a bunch of florescent 2700K bulbs in my house. The LED ceiling lights in my house are all 3000K and the mismatch in temp was bothering me. It's been less than 6 months and I've already had to replace 4 of them, and I've only used about 26 so far. Their light output is down a noticeable amount since they were first installed, and they may be getting a little warmer as they age as well. For 58 bucks for 40 bulbs I can't really complain, but they're not perfect thats for sure.
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Apr 4, 2019 17:04
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I'm going to start replacing old 3-prong outlets in my house with new 3-prong outlets, mainly because a lot of them have problems holding 2-prong plugs in firmly and I'd like them all to be consistently white. I've watched a few youtube videos on the process and it seems straightforward enough, I've replaced ceiling lights and fans in the past without dying (so far). So aside from ensuring the correct breaker is shut off, is there anything I should be aware of? Any 'types' of outlets to avoid? I was looking at various tamper resistant ones since I have a little babby.
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Apr 4, 2019 19:51
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:I'm going to start replacing old 3-prong outlets in my house with new 3-prong outlets, mainly because a lot of them have problems holding 2-prong plugs in firmly and I'd like them all to be consistently white. Get a voltage tester to make sure the outlet is truly off.
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Apr 4, 2019 19:54
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Get a voltage tester to make sure the outlet is truly off. To elaborate on that, get the voltage tester to make sure they didn't somehow magically run a neutral from a different circuit or worse to that one outlet despite the breaker being off. You might also be in for a surprise when it comes to having an actual ground connection or not. For other things, consider a nylon screwdriver or at least covering your screwdriver in some masking tape when installing the faceplates so you don't eat a bit of the paint.
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Apr 4, 2019 20:32
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Get a voltage tester to make sure the outlet is truly off. Be sure to know how to use a voltage tester.
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Apr 4, 2019 20:36
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Get a voltage tester to make sure the outlet is truly off. I have one of those non-contact detector pens, it's worked pretty well for me unless it decides to start lying one day.
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Apr 4, 2019 20:54
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:I have one of those non-contact detector pens, it's worked pretty well for me unless it decides to start lying one day. Yes this can be an ok-ish tool but make sure it works. The best thing you can do is having someone else flip the breaker while you are using it on the socket so you can see it turn off. I still wouldn't trust my life to them, use an appropriate tester to check all the connections.
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Apr 4, 2019 21:04
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:I'm going to start replacing old 3-prong outlets in my house with new 3-prong outlets, mainly because a lot of them have problems holding 2-prong plugs in firmly and I'd like them all to be consistently white. To make things really simple, get a 3 prong plug in tester and check each existing outlet (and both plugs in each outlet). If they are all already wired properly and you don't want to change anything like making a switched outlet always on, etc. then just make a note of what wire goes where on the old outlets and wire up the new outlets the same way. Knowing which wire is which and goes where is better, though. I bought a couple 10 packs of these for my new house: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5325-W-Resistant-Receptacle-Grounding/dp/B005LVI7BM?th=1
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Apr 4, 2019 21:15
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