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Cage posted:....I didn't think they would get so exact. Oops. Should be fine. Edit: wrong size. These are hard to find Literally Lewis Hamilton fucked around with this message at 12:38 on Apr 1, 2019 |
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Apr 1, 2019 12:35
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`69 f250 ranger 2wd 360FE v8 C6? automatic. Dual exhaust separate pipes. Truck blows white smoke all day from the driver exhaust. Revving the engine will produce voluminous clouds of exhaust. Compression is: Passenger Driver 4-115 8-117 3-119 7-115 2-120 6-40 1-120 5-119 I'm leaning towards pulling the engine, but am looking for guesses or direction before a full tear down. Truck sat for an unknown number of years before it became mine. The down cylinder was soaked in MM/ATF/PB Blaster. Truck was flogged & driven hard, Had an oil change. Same symptoms. Previously, a leak-down test suggested valve stem seals. Changed for the driver bank, same symptoms persisted. Cleaned & changed the plugs 2x. Will soot up the plugs for #6 really fast. Like gummy tar. Coolant level stays good, or isn't going down fast enough to tell if it is a cracked block. Research says from least to worst: way too much fuel, valve issues?, stuck rings, cracked head, cracked block.
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Apr 1, 2019 20:41
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Is it white (coolant) or blue (oil)? You probably have multiple issues going on here - the compression test is telling you you've got a broken valve spring or whatever else you can think of for the low compression, the smoke sounds more like a head gasket. Are 360/390s still a dime a dozen or have they all left the yards for the crusher? Should be an easy swap.
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Apr 1, 2019 21:31
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Blue if I really get on it initially, then transitions to Pure white smoke. Which made me think a whole lot of raw gas? Off Idle it will drop back down to wispy puffs of smoke, But anytime I want. It turns into a cloud machine. I also put the engine through two fully warmed up sessions of ~20oz of water burbled through the carb. Springs are stock, and for all I know it's got original unhardened valve seats. Local machine shop prices are high enough ~$1200 for a rebuild. I'm leaning towards pulling the engine and why not do the whole thing vs. pulling one piston, & doing the heads while the engine is out. I like the classic cubic inches but, it's also a budget summer truck. This movie may have influenced buying the truck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkBnRRjP8XM
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Apr 1, 2019 22:30
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I'm sure this is a really stupid question but has anyone rattle-canned wheels before? I loving hate the look of mine and would really like them black so the spoke pattern is less blatantly fugly. Unfortunately I can't drop money into anything superfluous like new wheels but I can probably shell out for some good paint and sanding supplies. Would it last long enough or be a waste of time and just make me look like an idiot in 6 months? Warm, somewhat rainy climate, if that is any use.
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Apr 2, 2019 03:38
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oG-1uzLJr0
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Apr 2, 2019 03:45
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Slick posted:Blue if I really get on it initially, then transitions to Pure white smoke. Which made me think a whole lot of raw gas? If it was dumping raw gas, it'd be backfiring a whooooole lot, at least if you slammed the throttle shut from a decent speed. I don't mean cute little backfires, I mean "make the exhaust look like Elmer Fudd tried to shoot his shotgun with a finger plugging it" types of backfire, the kind where you (and everyone within half a mile of you) poo poo yourself thinking someone just fired a shotgun at you - dumping raw fuel into the exhaust tends to do that. Or, if it was an intake valve stuck open causing those numbers, you'd be getting a lot of backfiring through the carb. You probably have a popped head gasket or something cracked. Can't say until it's torn down. Side note: I had an F-150 with a kill switch that would kill the coil. It was endlessly amusing hitting the switch, pumping the throttle a few times, then flipping the switch back. KA-loving-BOOM. Also the reason I just went to glass packs and clamped them to the frame rails with vice grips, it'd blow them off and I'd have to go chase them down in traffic. I was a really stupid 17 year old Motronic posted:Are 360/390s still a dime a dozen or have they all left the yards for the crusher? Should be an easy swap. They're a lot harder to find now, unless you find a junkyard specializing in old Ford stuff.
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Apr 2, 2019 06:32
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STR posted:Side note: I had an F-150 with a kill switch that would kill the coil. It was endlessly amusing hitting the switch, pumping the throttle a few times, then flipping the switch back. KA-loving-BOOM. Also the reason I just went to glass packs and clamped them to the frame rails with vice grips, it'd blow them off and I'd have to go chase them down in traffic. I was a really stupid 17 year old Don't need a kill switch on his truck or my old '74 since the ignition switch is in the dash - no column lock. And yes, it's hilarious and I was also a jackass 17 year old.
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Apr 2, 2019 14:47
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Two quick car questions: 1) My wife’s 2015 Chevy Equinox fob seems to no longer be working (and neither is mine). The issue is that when she unlocks the door with the actual key, it has five quick horn beeps followed by the alarm going off. Any ideas on why? 2) my 2010 Dodge Caliber (2.4L 4 cylinder) is currently making a loud engine noise (just a loud brrrrrrr sound) whenever my car is driving between the speeds of 53-60. Anything lower or higher makes the engine quiet down to pretty much normal engine sound. I have also noticed that the sound drops when I make a right curve at that speed. Any ideas would be appreciated?
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Apr 3, 2019 01:00
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#2 sounds like a wheel bearing to me, especially since it changes when turning.
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Apr 3, 2019 01:15
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Bizarro Kanyon posted:Two quick car questions: Dunno if it's the same thing, but when my VW fob stopped working: 1. It was the receiver inside the car. Not the keys. 2. If I unlocked the door quickly, sometimes the alarm would go off. I noticed that if I unlocked and held the key turned for a couple of seconds, my lights would flash, indicating that the alarm was disabled. So, maybe try holding the key for a little bit before opening the door.
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Apr 3, 2019 01:29
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STR posted:They're a lot harder to find now, unless you find a junkyard specializing in old Ford stuff. That's what eBay is for now.
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Apr 3, 2019 03:40
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simplefish posted:
Turns out there was a relay missing, and a 15A fuse. I went to a scrapyard and took a look at another car that was crash damaged (so I was pretty sure the fuses would be right as it was most likely running at the time it got written off) and saw the bottom-left gap had a relay in it. I'll plug em in and update the thread with what happens, if anything - I know you guys like endings to stories. Any ideas on the diagram on the pdf though? simplefish fucked around with this message at 11:01 on Apr 3, 2019 |
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Apr 3, 2019 10:57
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How can I improve average MPG on my 2019 Honda Insight LX? I feel like I should be getting 50+, but I'm only averaging around 40, and I mostly just drive in Econ mode. Looks like from here the car averages around 46: http://www.fuelly.com/car/honda/insight. I read somewhere colder weather can have an impact, so should I expect a significant difference as spring rolls in?
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Apr 3, 2019 13:04
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Edit: Nevermind. Went at it with a box cutter and lots of patience. It'll never look "right" again, but it's not taking up space. Clearing the seat adjustment rails was the worst part. On the upside, on the door panels and windows the thin coat of Oklahoma red dirt dust kept it from adhering to the actual plastic or glass and those parts peeled off easily. I did lose a sweater and a hat to it and I believe the second can is somewhere in the mass created by the explosion of the first can.
Untrustable fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Apr 3, 2019 |
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Apr 3, 2019 13:24
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simplefish posted:Turns out there was a relay missing, and a 15A fuse. I went to a scrapyard and took a look at another car that was crash damaged (so I was pretty sure the fuses would be right as it was most likely running at the time it got written off) and saw the bottom-left gap had a relay in it. The PDF opens as blank for me at least 
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Apr 3, 2019 14:58
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Weaponized Autism posted:How can I improve average MPG on my 2019 Honda Insight LX? I feel like I should be getting 50+, but I'm only averaging around 40, and I mostly just drive in Econ mode. Looks like from here the car averages around 46: http://www.fuelly.com/car/honda/insight. I read somewhere colder weather can have an impact, so should I expect a significant difference as spring rolls in? There will be a difference, not sure if that dramatic though. What are your tire pressures? Plus who knows where you live in regards to winter blends with gasoline.
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Apr 3, 2019 15:13
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C-Bangin' it 
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Dumb question about rims cause I want to be 100% sure: My tires are 205, R17; so in theory, I can buy any 17" rim in the range of 6.5 to 8 inches, though 7/7.5 probably being ideal? Of that range, is there a width that's typically cheaper than the others? My current rims are kind of bad...tire guys said it took a lot of beating/bending and weights to get the winter tires mounted and balanced (and not exactly perfectly balanced, I feel some wiggling), so I'll leave the winters on the bad ones and get new ones for my summers, and then I can change them out myself. But I'm not any sort of "car guy", so looks aren't that important to me. It's just a beat up 2008 Mazda3, (Not even a MazdaSpeed, I'm so sorry, please forgive me.) I'm half tempted to just go to a junkyard and get some, but then I realized it'd be nice to have at least my summer drives be nice and not deal with vibrations, wiggling, etc...
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Apr 3, 2019 16:02
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Weaponized Autism posted:How can I improve average MPG on my 2019 Honda Insight LX? I feel like I should be getting 50+, but I'm only averaging around 40, and I mostly just drive in Econ mode. Looks like from here the car averages around 46: http://www.fuelly.com/car/honda/insight. I read somewhere colder weather can have an impact, so should I expect a significant difference as spring rolls in? Winter formulation gasoline is a big culprit, which has additives that assist the fuel in burning better in cold air. It also had the side effect of reducing the volume of actual fuel in a gallon, which typically materializes in a 2-5 MPG drop. Cold air is also dense, meaning it has a higher oxygen content which requires slightly more fuel to maintain the correct air/fuel ratio. I'd say if you're averaging in the low 40s and average reported economy is in the mid-40s winter formulation gasoline is the likely explanation. Stations usually switch over sometime in mid-April and back again in mid-October.
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Apr 3, 2019 18:12
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my rims on my 2011 Mazda3 are getting a little rusty looking. my dad told me to just put some black spray paint on them. is that legit? seems goofy. they are fine just showing some fading from the great lakes winters
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Apr 3, 2019 20:11
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Autistic Edgy Guy posted:my rims on my 2011 Mazda3 are getting a little rusty looking. my dad told me to just put some black spray paint on them. is that legit? seems goofy. they are fine just showing some fading from the great lakes winters I think if you're going to do that you really must sand, primer, and color. Masking off the tires of course. I was just noticing the other day one of my neighbor's cars was painted black at some point but has flaked off about 75% of the job, looking absolutely terrible now.
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Apr 3, 2019 20:29
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Its time to buy a new A to B car for me, and much like the 45 year old divorcee deep inside this 39 year old man's heart, I'm thinking I might replace my Honda Odyssey with a Crosstour. The internet says it's a great car, but I'm curious what the AI hivemind has to say about it.
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Apr 3, 2019 21:14
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It's hideous but it's an Accord, same as the Odyssey. It's fine.
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Apr 3, 2019 21:22
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Clitch posted:Its time to buy a new A to B car for me, and much like the 45 year old divorcee deep inside this 39 year old man's heart, I'm thinking I might replace my Honda Odyssey with a Crosstour. The internet says it's a great car, but I'm curious what the AI hivemind has to say about it. Buy a new passport instead
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Apr 3, 2019 21:27
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Buy a new passport instead Yes, flee the country and buy a Lada.
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Apr 3, 2019 21:40
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Buy a new passport instead Unironically that. Looks like a solid vehicle.
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Apr 3, 2019 21:50
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2002 VW Mk4 TDI Golf - 5speed Car died after two minutes of driving this morning. The car made some clicking sounds and the engine stopped, but dash lights and hazard lights still worked. The battery light came on. Pulled the car over and turned the ignition off. Tried to restart it and the starter turns but it wouldn't catch. Faint electrical smell under the hood. Turned the starter over for 10 seconds straight and it eventually started and acted normally. I've had it parked the rest of the day and it's still starting and acting normally, except that the fob couldn't control the locks or hatch until I used the key manually in the driver's door. Any ideas for what happened and how to prevent it happening again?
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Apr 4, 2019 00:34
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Motronic posted:Don't need a kill switch on his truck or my old '74 since the ignition switch is in the dash - no column lock. And yes, it's hilarious and I was also a jackass 17 year old. My '66 Bonneville was doing this at random because one of the ignition switch contacts was burned up. It was a loving riot when I'd be throttling up an onramp at about 65, top down, next to a jersey barrier, when I'd lose all power for a couple heartbeats and then BOOM.
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Apr 4, 2019 03:51
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Geoj posted:Winter formulation gasoline is a big culprit, which has additives that assist the fuel in burning better in cold air. It also had the side effect of reducing the volume of actual fuel in a gallon, which typically materializes in a 2-5 MPG drop. Cold air is also dense, meaning it has a higher oxygen content which requires slightly more fuel to maintain the correct air/fuel ratio. Also, hybrids get worse mileage in cold temps before you factor in winter fuel. Cold batteries just can't deliver the same amount of power as a warm battery. (hot batteries also don't work well, but that's why hybrids have a battery cooling system)
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Apr 4, 2019 05:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:The PDF opens as blank for me at least Ah dammit, it works for me. Would someone else mind trying please?
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Apr 4, 2019 08:24
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Also my steering wheel vibrates a lot above about 55mph It has new front shocks but I'm pretty sure the steering bushings were knackered several owners ago. I think that's the issue (99% certain), but googling seems to say worn steering bushings causing steering wheel vibration is a *low* speed issue. Is that meaning "only low speed" or "low speed and above"?
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Apr 4, 2019 08:27
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At the suggestion of some advice I got here recently, I am going to use a fuse tap to install a relay to kill my lights when the ignition is switched off. The tap itself fits the fuse box, but the pass-through it uses takes fuses of a smaller physical size. I am OK using these as long as they're the same rating, right?
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Apr 4, 2019 08:53
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simplefish posted:Also my steering wheel vibrates a lot above about 55mph Tyres?
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Apr 4, 2019 15:55
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Ethics_Gradient posted:At the suggestion of some advice I got here recently, I am going to use a fuse tap to install a relay to kill my lights when the ignition is switched off. Yes, as long as the rating is the same, you are good to use a smaller-footprint fuse.
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Apr 4, 2019 16:21
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So I went up a steep ramp and had to slip the clutch to not stall the engine, but also could not go too fast up the ramp. This is the first car I've driven where starting off in general (from stop, in first) requires slipping the clutch (excessively IMO) to not have a jerky start. From googling this might be due to the nature of the clutch delay valve. Anyway, the clutch made a grumbling sound and I could feel a harsh rumble through the pedal. Never experienced anything like this before in a car and it felt as I was murdering the clutch.  I have been getting some slight vibrations through the clutch pedal at the bite point when starting off in first gear though. Should I be worried?
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Apr 4, 2019 16:57
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MrOnBicycle posted:So I went up a steep ramp and had to slip the clutch to not stall the engine, but also could not go too fast up the ramp. This is the first car I've driven where starting off in general (from stop, in first) requires slipping the clutch (excessively IMO) to not have a jerky start. From googling this might be due to the nature of the clutch delay valve. Anyway, the clutch made a grumbling sound and I could feel a harsh rumble through the pedal. Never experienced anything like this before in a car and it felt as I was murdering the clutch. Is it a blue car or a red car?
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Apr 4, 2019 17:06
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Motronic posted:Is it a blue car or a red car? Not that matrix poo poo.
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Apr 4, 2019 17:18
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Colostomy Bag posted:Not that matrix poo poo. IOwnCalculus posted:
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Apr 4, 2019 17:22
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IF YOU ARE ASKING A QUESTION, YOU NEED TO GIVE DETAILS
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Motronic posted:Is it a blue car or a red car? Sorry I figured it was a more general clutch type thing, not specific for the car which is why I didn't mention it (although the year would be useful). That and it's not a car that exists in the US, although come to think of it I think it shares the gearbox with the Dodge Dart (as it has the same engine). Might share it with some of the Fiats that are in the US, but not sure. C635 gearbox. Might be some differences as the Dodge Darters seem to come up with loads more mods than the Alfa/Fiat community. The car is a blue 2011 Alfa Romeo Giulietta. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Apr 4, 2019 |
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Apr 4, 2019 17:57
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MrOnBicycle posted:Tyres? Or alignment, ball joints, shocks, wheel(s) out of balance, etc.
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Apr 4, 2019 19:05
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