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Combat Pretzel posted:Use this radiator instead. I wonder how much one of these could handle as a passive radiator.
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Feb 10, 2019 23:29
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Just get an household radiator.  https://www.overclock.net/forum/24235557-post11.html
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Feb 11, 2019 00:08
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TigerXtrm posted:You can't cool a water cooled system below ambient temp, that's not how thermal dynamics work. So yes, get some cool air in the room. I know how thermal physics works, I was looking for better ways to interface my system with ambient air since it looks like the temperature differential I was experiencing didn't dissipate my total power load fast enough through a thick 360mm rad. Sidesaddle Cavalry fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Feb 11, 2019 |
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Feb 11, 2019 02:14
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Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:I know how thermal physics works, I was looking for better ways to interface my system with ambient air since it looks like the temperature differential I was experiencing didn't dissipate my total power load fast enough through a thick 360mm rad. You probably should just do what Don lapre said and get an AC or open a window. You can throw money at more radiators and fans but at the end of the day if the heat can't escape the room fast enough you'll just end up making yourself uncomfortable.
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Feb 11, 2019 08:18
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Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:I know how thermal physics works, I was looking for better ways to interface my system with ambient air since it looks like the temperature differential I was experiencing didn't dissipate my total power load fast enough through a thick 360mm rad. What’s your loop delta-T? If it’s higher than +5c over ambient then you can get that down with more rads. Mine is typically 3-4c under full gaming load and about 5c if I go with some insane synthetics.
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Feb 11, 2019 09:17
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rage-saq posted:What’s your loop delta-T? If it’s higher than +5c over ambient then you can get that down with more rads. Mine is typically 3-4c under full gaming load and about 5c if I go with some insane synthetics. I wish i had this reference a year ago because that loop has long been sold off, but I'm building a new one and will keep this in mind.
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Feb 11, 2019 19:12
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Just installed a water temperature sensor and moved fan control of the radiator ones to that. Finally that spooling up of the fans due to the Ryzen precision boost temperature ratchet is gone. Also, I still hate my H700 piece of crap case. What's a good temperature to settle for the water?
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Feb 22, 2019 19:10
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Combat Pretzel posted:Just installed a water temperature sensor and moved fan control of the radiator ones to that. Finally that spooling up of the fans due to the Ryzen precision boost temperature ratchet is gone. Depends on ambient and how much rad performance you have. I maintain about +3-+4 C delta-T
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Feb 22, 2019 19:22
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I have like 20.5°C at home when heating. Currently the loop is at 28.8°C on a 360 with three Noctua A12x25 spinning at around 1150 RPM, while doing random browsing and Youtube in background, and two small Linux VMs keeping the CPU awake (it's a Threadripper, so it's probably dumping more heat in general into the loop, even when idle). I'm probably going to leave it at that for noise reasons, and tweak the fan curve to accordingly.
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Feb 22, 2019 20:01
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Combat Pretzel posted:Just installed a water temperature sensor and moved fan control of the radiator ones to that. Finally that spooling up of the fans due to the Ryzen precision boost temperature ratchet is gone. Up to 10c over ambient is usually considered fine. 5c over ambient is considered great. Water needs to be under 45-50c is really the only area to look at (assuming your components are staying cool enough). 45-50c is when WC components start to break due to temp.
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Feb 22, 2019 20:35
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rage-saq posted:Depends on ambient and how much rad performance you have. I maintain about +3-+4 C delta-T That either takes a shitload of rads or your rig sounds like an air tunnel even in idle. I suppose it depends heavily on the loop. Combat Pretzel posted:Just installed a water temperature sensor and moved fan control of the radiator ones to that. Finally that spooling up of the fans due to the Ryzen precision boost temperature ratchet is gone. For my loop (CPU + GPU) I start ramping up the fan curve at 35c and maxing out at 50c simply because I prefer silence. Anything below 35c and the fans are at their lowest possible RPM. In practice that means that my loop idles at around 28c (delta +5) and gets up to about 38c under the heaviest everyday load I throw at it (which seems to be Rainbow Six Siege in my case). A while ago I had a fault in my fan curve which caused the fans to stay at idle speeds, and the water quickly raised to 45c+. On the other side of the coin, if I run my fans at max speed I can idle at drat near ambient and probably make that +5 delta under load, but I'd go deaf in my left ear in the process. So find a balance between cooling and noise that you're happy with, but indeed don't let the temp get too high.
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Feb 23, 2019 00:03
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TigerXtrm posted:That either takes a shitload of rads or your rig sounds like an air tunnel even in idle. I suppose it depends heavily on the loop. 9900k @ 5ghz + 1080ti + asus Maximus formula X VRMs. I’ve got 2x 420s + 280 with ML140 fans at pretty low RPM. I think about 600rpm idle and 900rpm full load, so it’s pretty much silent. When you’ve got a 900d you can go pretty crazy with rads.
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Feb 23, 2019 00:14
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rage-saq posted:I’ve got 2x 420s + 280 with ML140 fans at pretty low RPM. I think about 600rpm idle and 900rpm full load, so it’s pretty much silent. Oh yeah with that much rad space you'll easily get temps down that far. I had to pack in 2 x 360s into an R6.
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Feb 23, 2019 00:19
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TigerXtrm posted:That either takes a shitload of rads or your rig sounds like an air tunnel even in idle. I suppose it depends heavily on the loop. This also describes my experience almost exactly, GTX1080+9900k in a single loop 420mm (3x140) radiator. Idle fans are ~600 RPM, things start slowly ramping up at 35c, 100% throttle is 45c, and it usually stops around 37-38c at load with a very moderate rise in fan RPM. Once I exit whatever game is loading it up, the temps usually drop to under 35c in only a minute or two. After a long idle the loop has been down as low as 27c in a 24c room, and it isn't terribly unusual to have a couple CPU cores matching the loop temperature. The delta is basically everything in cooling, water or otherwise. The higher the delta the easier it is to dump heat, but the hotter the thing being cooled will be. If you are aiming for silence, allow a higher delta and the cooler will dump more heat at lower RPMs. On the other hand, ramping everything to 100% doesn't really yield much improvement in deltas, because holding +3 or +4 at load is really hard to do. Trying to transport 300w of heat with only a +5 temperature delta requires ridiculous amounts of airflow and surface area and is going to be expensive and noisy.
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Feb 23, 2019 01:07
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My partner and I are moving in together, and I'm about to get 3 cats in this deal. Does water-cooling provide any advantages maintenance/cleaning wise if there's going to be a bunch of hair and dander? Even if it's just having one thing to get the hair out of instead of a bunch.
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Mar 3, 2019 00:36
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Having a case with dust filters on the intakes will probably do more.
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Mar 3, 2019 00:44
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Appreciated! Luckily my case came with some good ones, so that'll be nice. I'm paranoid because I haven't had a pet in a long time and the omnipresent hair is driving me a tad bonkers.
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Mar 3, 2019 01:36
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NewFatMike posted:My partner and I are moving in together, and I'm about to get 3 cats in this deal. If anything water cooling is probably worse for dust intake, since you usually use more fans than in an ordinary air cooling setup. As someone with two cats, my advice is to get a case with dust filters and keep the case off the ground. I have mine at desk height and there's barely any hair getting in there at all. The filters also stay remarkably clean compared to my old rig that was on the floor.
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Mar 3, 2019 15:36
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Yeah, it isn't particularly unusual for a water cooler to move and draw more air through a case than a traditional cooler. Likely it would be worse, but depending on how/where the radiators are mounted it could be slightly easier to dust out with compressed air than a more common tower cooler (you could literally just blow compressed air straight down through a top mounted radiator and dislodge most of the accumulated dust without even opening the case if you were willing to let some settle inside). Dust filters on any intakes and keeping the case off the floor are definitely going to help more than any sort of different cooler type or layout.
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Mar 3, 2019 16:01
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Thanks folks! I've got it up on a shelf now, so hopefully that'll make my dreams come true.
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Mar 4, 2019 04:02
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Combat Pretzel posted:No temp sensor headers on my X399 Taichi. :| What memory you running? I'm looking to go pair with gen 1 threadripper and run esxi so I'm fishing for recommendations.
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Apr 5, 2019 21:03
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Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3000 CL15 4x8GB. They only work stable at 2833MHz just picking an XMP profile in the BIOS. Haven't investigated why.
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Apr 5, 2019 21:32
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XMP isn't guarenteed
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Apr 5, 2019 21:41
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The samsung b-die ecc sticks are pretty great in the x399 taichi as well.
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Apr 5, 2019 22:04
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:The samsung b-die ecc sticks are pretty great in the x399 taichi as well. You got a model number? I’m wanting to run esxi hopefully. Should I go single or dual rank?
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Apr 6, 2019 03:38
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Coredump posted:You got a model number? I’m wanting to run esxi hopefully. Should I go single or dual rank? I'm running four sticks of F24VEB16GS at 3000mhz and 16/16/16/39 timings on the asus zenith board. Personally I'd rather go four sticks of dual rank than eight sticks of single rank, but I don't have any hard data to back that up.
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Apr 6, 2019 07:03
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Combat Pretzel posted:Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3000 CL15 4x8GB. They only work stable at 2833MHz just picking an XMP profile in the BIOS. Haven't investigated why. It's very likely because you have 4 pieces in there. 2 sticks in the furthest slots would probably hit 3000.
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Apr 6, 2019 18:20
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Coredump posted:You got a model number? I’m wanting to run esxi hopefully. Should I go single or dual rank? https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/9o2bew/overclocking_ecc_ram_revisited/
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Apr 9, 2019 03:50
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Hello. Thinking about loving around and watercooling my rig. This is, like, pre-pre-planning I'm doing here. My goals here are silent operation, some aesthetics, and doing a nifty thing for its own sake, maybe. I mean, I may well ultimately decide not to do this based on what I learn. Anyway, I have lots of rookie questions, some of which may even be good. My case is a Fractal Define Mini C which I love dearly, although its compact form may bite me somewhat in this endeavour. I am not above swapping out some components in the course of switching to a watercooled build but I really would like to keep this case. It's got space for two double rads at the front and top and a single rad at the back (the front has a dust filter so I figure rads on the top and back are the way to go here). I've currently got some HDDs installed in the little rack by the PSU but I figure moving them to an external enclosure to make room for a pump or reservoir is probably a smart choice (also they're actually louder than the fans I have at the moment when the system is idle and I really don't need them active all the time (they're archive drives)). What I'm unsure about at the moment is how to figure out how to mount a reservoir and pump - like what even my options are for placing these things, what do I need to buy or do to my case... like, are cases generally designed with the possibility of these things in mind or do we just accept that a drill is going to have to come out at some point? (Does anyone have Observations about this case generally?) My main board is an MSI Z370M Gaming Pro AC. It's an mATX. I don't think mainboard monoblocks exist for any Z370 mATX mainboard. I don't think this is a very big deal because it's not like most of this stuff requires its own cooling and every plan I've come up with so far involves radiators blowing out of the top and back of my case so there's still gonna be some airflow cooling going on, but I'm kinda sad about it. More importantly, am I right to think that any CPU block that fits an LGA1151 socket will work? My GPU's a Gigabyte GTX1080 G1 Gaming. God I hate the names of these things. I've only found one fullcover block for it so far. Do I correctly understand that having anything other than a fullcover block is a Bad Idea? What is the effect of having a larger or smaller reservoir in a loop? Generally it makes sense that the total volume of fluid in a loop would impact how beefy (and loud) a pump is required to operate it but I'm not sure how the excess in a reservoir fits in to that equation. I see lots of advice around the internet about building a loop and choosing components but not so much about maintenance. Is there a good and detailed guide on this subject? I'd really like to know exactly what I'm letting myself in for here, and how often. Similarly, how consigned should I be to the notion that upgrading the PC generally is going to be hard-to-impossible after installing a loop? I don't even mean, say, swapping GPUs (which would require changing the block, which would necessarily require draining everything (right?)), but, like, being able to get at the RAM, PCIes, M2s and SATAs, ever - especially considering I'm using an mATX case with somewhat constricted space? Is there such a thing as fabric-sleeved tubing, like you can get with various AIO CPU coolers? It seems like a long shot given that you can't really have people cutting big lengths of it at home like you can with all the other kinds, so you'd have to ship it in pre-cut pre-fitted lengths and it would probably be compatibility hell but is it even theoretically possible? What are the implications of All This for people who want to keep on top of controlling things in response to temperatures and loads? I'm working under the assumption that the fans on the radiators are gonna be hooked up to the same mainboard headers as my case fans are now, the pumps gonna go at whatever speed it goes at, and I'm gonna respond to things getting warm by spinning up the fans. Is this broadly how it works? Are there particularly good ways to track the temperatures inside the loop, and is it advisable to operate things based on that (read: the CPU is blazing fast but the loop is still cool so no need to bother me with literally any fan noise)? I think that's all I got for now.
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Apr 13, 2019 21:03
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Fedule posted:My case is a Fractal Define Mini C which I love dearly, although its compact form may bite me somewhat in this endeavour. Fedule posted:What is the effect of having a larger or smaller reservoir in a loop? Generally it makes sense that the total volume of fluid in a loop would impact how beefy (and loud) a pump is required to operate it but I'm not sure how the excess in a reservoir fits in to that equation. Also, if you don't have inputs on your mainboard for external 10K temperature sensors, you should consider getting an external fan controller. Ideally, you'll control fan speeds based on water temperature, if you're about silence. Unless you want to deal with suboptimal fan curves to tame the racket caused by the temperature ratchet on Ryzen CPUs.
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Apr 13, 2019 21:30
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Important things to keep in mind about water cooling: How you use it doesn't count, Size Is Everything. Water cooling doesn't make your PC quiet because its better than a heat pipe tower cooler, it makes your PC quiet because the radiator can be three times the size/volume/surface area of even the biggest lump of metal heat pipe tower out there and you can throw a half dozen slow and super quiet 140mm fans on it. This is also why the quietest water cooling setups are usually in gigantic full tower cases. You can water cool in a small case, just curb your expectations about noise and be ready for a long painful exhausting build (the smaller it is, the louder it must be in order to equal the same performance, and the more cuts and scrapes and going back shopping for something 2mm smaller that will actually fit this time). Get a D5 pump, EKWB makes some with PWM control, at full speed they are louder than a hard drive, but at 35% you cannot hear it at all unless you literally touch your ear to one. Coolant volume doesn't really impact how big of a pump you need or how fast it needs to run, what does is how restrictive the components in the loop are and how high the pump has to push the water up (the pump should be at the lowest point of the loop, directly under the reservoir). EKWB also makes 120mm and 140mm brackets that let you mount the pump to the other side of a fan and it looks clean. Drilling holes and bolting or zip tying it down is also a fairly common method. The best fan/pump control for a water cooler is by using thermristors, there are various types between in-line and plug types that screw in to the loop one way or another and can then be connected to a motherboard thermristor header or aquacomputer that tells the coolant temperature, which you then use to determine the PWM throttles of the fans/pump. Note doing this requires a motherboard with a thermristor header, which isn't guaranteed, otherwise you would have to use an aquacomputer as your fan/pump controller. Upgrading the PC after building a loop varies in difficulty, also depending on what type of tubing you use. Soft/flexible tubing and you only need to drain the loop when you change a component that requires a different water block. Hard tubing requires draining the loop every other time you look at it. Drains are absolutely necessary for hard tubing loops, but are optional on soft tubing (you can just tip the reservoir upside down into a bucket on a soft tubing loop). So if you are using soft tubing, and for instance you want to upgrade your motherboard/cpu, but you are sticking with a similar or compatible socket (like Intels LGA 115x sockets), then it is totally possible to swap without draining a loop with a little care. Your video card's full cover block on the other hand is specific to one type/make of GPU and will almost certainly not be compatible with your next GPU or even a different GPU in the same family, so you will have to drain the loop for that. As for maintenance, there are a trillion things out there that like nothing more than to grow in warm water if they are given a little bit of light. So if you want low maintenance, use dark colored opaque tubing, turn off those LEDs and avoid light exposure to the coolant as much as possible. Also use coolant mixes that are approved by the manufacturer of your loop components in the proper ratio of distilled water, and avoid dies/colors like the plague they are. Basically bling/LEDs/showcase windows/colored coolant/etc increases maintenance demands. Clear/uncolored coolant + no light = long maintenance intervals (this is also why AIOs have no method or way to extract or replace the coolant).
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Apr 13, 2019 22:23
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quote:Similarly, how consigned should I be to the notion that upgrading the PC generally is going to be hard-to-impossible after installing a loop? I don't even mean, say, swapping GPUs (which would require changing the block, which would necessarily require draining everything (right?)), but, like, being able to get at the RAM, PCIes, M2s and SATAs, ever - especially considering I'm using an mATX case with somewhat constricted space? An important thing you need to realize about a water cooled rig is that it will require maintenance. It's not like a traditional computer where you grab the vacuum cleaner every few months and be done after 5 minutes of work. It's generally good practice to replace the liquid once a year, and since you're draining the loop anyway you might as well use that to your advantage to inspect the loop for dirt and defects and give your blocks and fittings a good cleaning. This is especially recommended if you're using colored additives, which will gunk up your poo poo sooner or later. That means flushing the blocks, flushing the rads, possibly cleaning out the piping and fittings and inspecting all the seals. And speaking of draining, plan for an easy drain method when you're planning your loop. Hide away a ball valve somewhere in the lowest point where you can hook up a draining tube.
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Apr 13, 2019 22:30
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Fedule posted:Thinking about loving around and watercooling my rig. With the caveat that I set up my first custom loop this winter: Case: I have no particular knowledge of your case, but in general small is difficult and it will be more of a bastard to work in. I have a giant fulltower and I had still had a lot of trouble fitting some things in the way I had initially planned to. Some of the components you buy will not fit in your case, and the smaller the case the more this will happen. That said, Fractal are better at allowing for water cooling than most and the mini does have a lot of radiator attachment points. You probably wont need a drill if you're careful: use a small pump/reservoir combo that attaches to the radiators, that sort of thing. I suspect that routing the tubing will still be extremely painful. MB and CPU: CPU water blocks take up less space than air coolers so it's only the socket you need to care about, yes. Monoblocks aren't particularly important, especially not if you're doing this more for noise than maximum overclocks. VRMs don't usually get all that hot unless you start cranking up the CPU wattage. Full cover blocks: You don't need a full cover block but it can save some effort over putting individual heatsinks and you don't need to worry about overheating some part of the power system or RAM chip. I'm not really sure how hot the VRMs on a 1080 run, it's probably not too bad. Anyhow there are EKWB blocks for your GPU which aren't terribly priced. Reservoirs: The advantages of a large reservoir are the aforementioned better heat capacity so you can average out longer temporary cpu/gpu temp spikes without needing to spin up the radiator fans, that they make it slightly easier to fill the loop, and that they look cool. It's not very important, far as I can tell. Maintenance: Depends, but it's pretty rough sometimes. Maintaining the water cooling system itself really isn't that bad, at least as long as you're just running distilled water with biocide. The cool opaque fluids do gunk up, but plain water is pretty simple far as I can tell. The entire drain, rinse and refill process takes a couple of hours. The maintenance hurdle is mostly that maintaining the rest of your computer is now a lot harder. Want to replace a RAM stick? You need to drain the loop, cover your MB in towels, carefully remove the tubing running over your RAM slots so there's minimal leakage, replace the RAM, reattach your tubing, refill the loop with only your pump active and the rest of the PC unpowered, test the new RAM and notice you put it in the wrong slot, repeat from the top, and so on. Routine maintenance is just a lot more complex when you have critically important tubes full of water running all around your machine. Especially in a small case. This said: doing upgrades is not impossible or anything, it's just a lot more work. You probably want to plan your upgrades more so you can do any component upgrades and your loop maintenance all at the same time. Fabric tubing: I don't think there's anything specifically for water cooling tubes, apart from some overpriced AIO sleeve replacement kits, but there's plenty of generic braided cable sleeving around and you can buy it at a diameter of 10mm, 5/8" or whatever matches the tubing you buy. It'll be annoying to handle the fittings, but I googled a guide or two from other people who took that approach and apparently it works. I don't think I'd recommend doing all that for your first loop since you'll have enough things that can go wrong already, but it's an option. Temperature control: The constraints in any water cooling control system are to keep the coolant within the tolerance range of your pump (which means <60 °C for your typical D5), and your CPU and GPU from overheating. Typically the water temperature difference between the coolest and warmest points in the loop is maybe 1-2 °C so you don't particularly need to worry about component order or where you measure the water temperature if you do so (though nearer the pump is better). Higher pump speed means that difference is lower and that the water cools the CPU and GPU slightly more effectively. Higher fan speed means that the radiators dissipate more heat and lower your coolant temperature faster. As a result you ideally want to run the fans based on the current water temperature since that's what they directly control, with fan speed maxing out before 60 °C. Pump speed control is less important, but a PWM-controlled pump with the speed based on max(cpu_temperature, gpu_temperature) or something like that can gain you either a dB or two or a °C or two, depending. Actually having that sort of control will require a standard 2-pin temperature sensor and something that can read it. I have a couple of temp sensor pins on my motherboard and I control all that in bios or asus' fan software, otherwise there are aquaeros and other external options with which I have no experience. If you don't do any of that and just run the pump and fans both based on some response to CPU temp it'll still work fine. The CPU temperature and the coolant temperature are of course coupled, but you'll need to be a bit more aggressive with the fan curve than you maybe could've been to ensure you stay within the 60 °C constraint when you're not measuring it directly. Fans spinning up due to temporary CPU activity might happen but not often since the cpu-coolant heat exchange is a lot more efficient with water, which means CPU temperature isn't very spiky to begin with compared to air. Having a bunch of water around as a heat sink dampens the temperature response to brief impulses in general; that and the increased total radiator area are basically the two big advantages you get with water cooling.
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Apr 14, 2019 17:51
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Xerophyte posted:Temperature control: A note on this, 60C is an incredibly high coolant temperature, like water that warm will burn your skin pretty easily, and it is extremely unlikely you would ever have a proper loop hit that high of a temp unless the temperature in your room was also crazy high. I run a loop with a single 420mm radiator and I prioritize noise over absolute temperature performance so it runs a coolant delta of around 12C over ambient at load. (24C ambient +12 delta = 37C coolant at load of ~300w.) I can push it a little higher with torture tests that bring the load up to 400w, but a mild fan speed increase stops the rise at about 14C delta. Anyway, the thing worth keeping in mind is the delta over ambient is the really important part about temperatures. Average room temperature is around 23-25C, it is basically impossible to get your coolant any lower than about a 2C delta over ambient at almost no load. Dump 400w of heat into anything that fits in that case and it will warm up, but here's where a key aspect of cooling in general comes in to play: The hotter something is, the easier it is for it to dissipate energy. Basically the bigger the difference between the ambient air temperature and the coolant temperature, the more heat can be transferred from the water into the air. The last time I flushed my loop, I ran hot water through it and the radiator was so warm you could feel air flowing through it purely from the convection, spin up the fans and its an instant room heater, but the water coming out is still hot. Also on loop order: it is completely irrelevant. Put anything in any order that fits, the only thing that matters is you want your pump+reservoir at the lowest point gravity wise. The reason is simple: my total loop volume is about 900 ml, at full speed the pump does Edit: whoops, read the specs wrong, turns out the max flow on the pump is 1500L/hr not 500 (though the actual flow rate will be less than that because of loop restrictions). Indiana_Krom fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Apr 14, 2019 |
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Apr 14, 2019 18:53
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Here are a few of my experience and observations with watercooling. #1: If you are going to do it, do it for fun and not because you are expecting sick performance gains. You can get some really great and stable overclocks, but you are going to be spending upwards of $400 pretty quickly. It is more of a fun added hobby and it takes a bit of work to put together and maintain. However, if you really want to quiet down your system, it can be a really great tool. #2: Get a big case. That Fractal Mini is going to be really, really, really hard to work in and it will not be very quiet because you'll be blasting the fans at very high speed. Its just too small to put a respectable cooling system in. Make sure it can at least fit one 420 radiator (3x140 fans). A 420 radiator has about 10-15% better raw cooling performance, but 140mm fans like the excellent ML140 can move a TON of air at very low noise levels and so the real benefit is a lot higher. Seriously these things beat the crap out of the ML120s. I've got a stupidly huge Corsair 900d with 2x420mm and 1x280mm cooling off my CPU, GPU and VRMs but I am crazy like that. #3: Get some inline temperature sensors and a aquaero quadro. You want the temperature sensors so you can tie your fan curve to the temperature of the coolant, as thats what you are actually cooling with ambient air and what will be cooling the rest of your components. The Aquero Quadro is a mini fan controller that has some excellent control options and configuration software and is CHEAP. Its like $35 on Amazon and their lightweight software is fantastic. 4 fan headers, 3 temp headers, flow sensor and more. My entire rig runs off it and its great. #4: Water cooling (and cooling in general) is all about Delta-T. Ultimately your limiting point for component temperature is your ambient air temp, and the power of your watercooling loop to keep the coolant as close to that as possible. Right now if I play a heavy load game like satisfactory at 3440x1440 res, all options tweaked up, my heavily overclocked 9900k+2080ti pull down about 577w total. My 3 radiators + ML140 fans keep my loop average Delta-T at +2c over ambient. This low loop temp means my component temps are pretty low. The CPU avg +27c over ambient, GPU avg +12c over ambient and VRMs avg +18c over ambient. Every extra degree of loop temp over ambient is a direct increase to your components temperatures. ie loop temp = +10c delta-t means my CPU would be +37c over ambient, etc #5: EKWB makes probably the best waterblocks around, but I'm not crazy about their radiators. I prefer HardwareLabs Black Ice Nemesis GTS or GTX if you have the room. #6: EKWB D5 Revo is stupidly quiet. I run mine at 100% all the time and its by far quieter than my ML140 fans at 700rpm. If I have all of my fans off in my system after the pump is spun up its almost inaudible.
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Apr 15, 2019 00:20
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I’m thinking of putting my MS Sea Hawk EKX 1080ti w/EKWB waterblock up on SAMart if anyone is interested.
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Apr 15, 2019 20:11
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Thanks for all this, especially for all the assorted bits of component advice that I appreciate greatly but don't really have much to say to in response! Do I ever hear you about the case. There is a certain amount of tension in this plan that I think I can tolerate, and I'm going to find out what it is. I want to keep it. Even if I have to get very specific with planning how to actually fit all this stuff in it. I can get away with saying this because I'm like planning to plan to do this ridiculous thing. Maybe later I'll decide that however much trouble it is isn't worth holding on to this case for and buy a full tower with room for multiple thick 420s, but at that point I'm dangerously close to rebuilding from scratch. My mindset for this is: I'm doing this because it's an extremely cool project and I want to tinker with my PC, and if I can make it even quieter for having done that then so much the better for me. But if I'm going to go to the effort to try to make it quieter, I want to know how quiet I can make it. So, cramming radiators into this case. The things I need to cool are the aforementioned Gigabyte GTX 1080 G1 Gaming, and a stock i5 8600k, neither of which I have any interest in overclocking (I game at 1080p). I think - tape measure pass pending - that my radiator options are; one 2x120 rad up top (a 140 would hit my RAM), one 2x140 slim rad up front (a thick one plus fans would hit my GPU, and probably the top rad too), and one 1x140 at the back, maybe. I hear portentous things about slim radiators, but, like, this seems to my naive brain like it should be sufficient. Some napkinning brings me to a figure of something like 250-300W worth of hot under full load (helpfully, several outlets specifically tested the coffee lake CPUs in systems with GTX1080s). I don't know where I'd look for reliable numbers on radiator performance, but it seems to me as though the top and front doubles would make pretty light work of that load if they were governed by internal loop temperature and were happy to let it get warm. I don't even really push the system that hard normally (see: 1080p). EKWB tells me its fans make about 42dBA of racket at 100% speed, which, well, is quieter than my current setup at 100% (last measured at about 46dBA). EKWB also would have me believe a setup with just 3x120 rads would idle at 27dBA, which is quieter than the 31dBA ambient noise level in my room (of course, they're trying to sell me hundreds of pounds worth of cooling by telling me this, so.). I might surmise from this that my proposed four-rad setup (if I can physically make it work) will range somewhere between functionally inaudible and whatever fraction of full power the fans would need to go to match a 300W load at some generous delta, say 15-20°C. I know I said "silent" in literally the first substantive sentence in my last post, but I'm not going to insist on, like, silence silence under the full spectrum of usage scenarios. For minute to minute web browsing, okay, sure, that had better be quiet. My typical gaming scenario, according to Task Manager anyway, offers a light workout of maybe 40/50% GPU and up to that much CPU. I should hope that that load can be handled without going over, oh, I don't know, 35dBA. And obviously when I want to break out the CryEngine bullshit all bets will be off. I'm not gonna argue the principles of building this stuff with a thread full of various levels of expert on the subject, but the point I'm gonna press you on is this; within the constraints I've just outlined, and assuming (admittedly generously) that I can find ways to physically cram four fans (or five, though airflow becomes a concern with five) worth of radiator into this stupid beautiful compact mATX tower, am I completely insane for still wanting a noise-optimised loop-temperature-governed liquid cooling system?
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Apr 15, 2019 22:15
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I wouldn’t build a custom loop in that system, in order to cool a high wattage CPU/GPU with a 280 you will need the fans running very high RPMs under load and end up with higher component temps. I looked at some custom loop builds in that system and to say they were tight as hell is an understatement. The GPU was touching the front radiator fans, which means some GPUs won’t work at all. Some people like the challenge and do system builds because they can, but for a daily driver PC and a first time build I wouldn’t recommend it.
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Apr 15, 2019 22:35
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Worth noting I have a Corsair Obsidian 750D tower case, which is one of their larger ones, and I still used a Dremel to saw a considerable amount of metal out of the case (the entire 5.25" bay) in order to properly fit my 420mm radiator up top. The problem with napkin math about stuffing multiple radiators into something that small is that radiators are bigger than fans because they stick out on the ends for the chambers and fittings, and there also needs to be room to pass the tubing to them. Then you also have to consider that even a slim radiator is ~40 mm thick once you add the fans. You might end up in a situation where even if the radiators fit, you can't install fans on half of them because the fans interfere either with other fans or with another radiator even. Usually cases that advertise space for so many different radiator sizes are only ever actually engineered to fit ONE radiator of any of those sizes at a time, and often it comes at the cost of being unable to install fans in some of the immediately adjacent slots. Basically look at your case with a fan of the appropriate size in every slot, if any two fans on adjacent slots (like the rear fan and a top fan) are LESS than 40mm apart in any direction, you cannot fit two radiators together in those locations. So for instance if you install a rear radiator, you cannot install a top radiator (but you could still install a front radiator), or if you use a top radiator, then neither the front or the rear would be usable. So basically, I've been doing water cooling since the late 90s, and I wouldn't touch a case that size with a 10 foot pole unless someone was paying me thousands of dollars to make it work and even then I'd stop at one radiator.
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Apr 15, 2019 23:59
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| # ? May 12, 2024 16:16 |
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My MSI 1080ti Sea Hawk EK X is up for sale on SA Mart here, factory EKWB waterblock weeeeeee https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3887229&perpage=40#post494275170
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Apr 16, 2019 00:28
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