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I just found it on the website. Anyway, if you're gonna buy that paint sprayer (I'm probably gonna get one) use the coupon because it knocks like $30 off the price.
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Apr 3, 2019 20:48
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"Good luck! Painting is always 90% prep work. The plus side is that when you do the prep work right, the actual painting usually goes really smoothly, and it just makes such a massive difference in how nice the place looks afterwards. " 100% true I learned this roller painting 2 walls in my living room. We spent all day taping and putting down ground cloths aka cheap plastic sheeting. We only spent 2 hours total mixing and painting between both coats. If any of you are going to hand paint the blue tape worked better for us than frog tape. If in doubt buy the extension handle for your roller. People make fun of having a tiny 3 inch wide roller for touch up and corners but it worked out for us so we didn't have to use a small brush so far into the corners. I think I am going to get the Harbor Freight airless sprayer since I will be painting overhead. I need to do my research and see if I can drop a Graco tip into it or not. I also need to see if I can put an extension on the paint gun handle. I will update when I find the answers. Thanks again goons On a lighter note I can give advice on cutting in an in the wall cat5/6 jack in drywall and drilling into crawl spaces or attics. Flex bits unite! Lets make your wired data network look neat and tidy. Maybe delve into fiber if you are so inclined.
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Apr 4, 2019 03:27
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Speaking of home networking....our new-build house should be done very soon. we had them do Cat5 in a few rooms (living room, office, outside patio, upstairs master and upstairs bonus room). All the lines terminate in an an-wall network box. We will have our cable modem and router in there, but what else do I need to make sure everything is running smoothly?
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Apr 5, 2019 00:58
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Omne posted:Speaking of home networking....our new-build house should be done very soon. we had them do Cat5 in a few rooms (living room, office, outside patio, upstairs master and upstairs bonus room). All the lines terminate in an an-wall network box. We will have our cable modem and router in there, but what else do I need to make sure everything is running smoothly? Cat5 to a few ceiling points? That way you can put in dedicated access points for wifi (ubnt?)
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Apr 5, 2019 01:31
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devicenull posted:Cat5 to a few ceiling points? That way you can put in dedicated access points for wifi (ubnt?) Second this. Even if you don't plan on putting any in now, just put the drops in and a plate over the box just in case.
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Apr 5, 2019 02:02
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Put a few runs for POE equipment. Security cameras and/or ubiquity wifi nodes. Probably needs some tagging to denote if they are poe and which type of POE.
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Apr 5, 2019 03:17
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Omne posted:Speaking of home networking....our new-build house should be done very soon. we had them do Cat5 in a few rooms (living room, office, outside patio, upstairs master and upstairs bonus room). All the lines terminate in an an-wall network box. We will have our cable modem and router in there, but what else do I need to make sure everything is running smoothly? Power near that patch panel, with room for a surge suppressor or a suppressing outlet. That centralized run for your WAP is a good idea too, as well as power for it. You can even be super lazy and have 2 runs of Cat5 to that spot. Then you can use your WAP's router and firewall, then run it straight back to your patch panel to a switch. Speaking of surge suppressors, you may want to add some for the lines coming into your house as well.
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Apr 5, 2019 03:19
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The Gardenator posted:Probably needs some tagging to denote if they are poe and which type of POE. That has nothing to do with the structured cabling.
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Apr 5, 2019 03:22
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Motronic posted:That has nothing to do with the structured cabling. That's true, if they are using a panel then everything should be labeled on the panel itself. I was envisioning a lot of loose wire hanging from the ceiling into the closet.
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Apr 5, 2019 03:48
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Omne posted:Speaking of home networking....our new-build house should be done very soon. we had them do Cat5 in a few rooms (living room, office, outside patio, upstairs master and upstairs bonus room). All the lines terminate in an an-wall network box. We will have our cable modem and router in there, but what else do I need to make sure everything is running smoothly? Your builder is smart for giving you a junction box to run all the cat5 to usually mounted in a hall closet or garage. Make sure there is a cat5/6 and a coax from the fiber/phone/cable company from the outside of the house (usually near your breaker box and electric meter) to that in wall network box. We only want one path from the utilities mounted on the outside of the house to your new distribution panel that you have installed for your data needs. I salute you and your contractor for thinking ahead. Now lets get down to brass tacks. You will want to get a good wireless access point in a very central part of your house that is connected to your new broadband in wall network box. Mount your AP on the wall or ceiling. If you are crafty run electric in the wall to power the AP so you can hide the cat5 jack and power jack behind the appliance aka your wireless router/access point. Wifi 6 is starting to make a change to the weirdness of streaming video to devices and the quality of that streamed show. Something a lot of smarter people than me have figured out. Customers are really only looking forward to how good did my netflix / hulu / other streaming work. Wireless will eventually get there but fiber and copper is here right now. A copper cat5 will always be better for your smart TV or Roku. For residential housing copper is king for telephone (dying product) TV (dying product) cable (dying product) or internet (thriving product). If I was going to build a house today I would run copper cat5 or if I were a sperg lord cat6. In 5 years from now I would run fiber in a newly constructed house and run wireless from that copper or fiber enabled Access point. This is my very limited view from an installers point of view. If you want help cutting in jacks I could write that up. Drywall jacks are easy to do drilling is easy but a kind of an art at first. Just don't drilll through water or power. Until then take care goons.
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Apr 6, 2019 03:08
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stinkypete posted:In 5 years from now I would run fiber in a newly constructed house This has been said for the last 15 years. It's still not correct and likely won't ever be. I've been working with fiber in data centers as well as long haul fiber for most of my career. I can't see a reality in which it meaningfully leaves the long haul/data center market in any sensible way. The only home gamer fiber that gained any kind of popularity was toslink, and it too is basically on life support now. <insert some flavor of fiber here> to futureproof! is never gonna be a thing. Spend you money on conduit and pull strings so you can easily swap out to <next new media of choice> if you're concerned about futureproofing. Finding the right media converters (and powering them) to convert to whatever standard may come up next, whick technically possible, has never been reasonably economical for a home gamer in the history of fiber.
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Apr 6, 2019 03:52
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Any recommendations for concrete sealant? My patio is made of concrete with small pebbles mixed in it. I would like to seal it. Would urethane be my best bet? Also should the home depot stuff be okay or should I go somewhere else? I essentially want to waterproof/stain proof it (ie, oil stans) lol internet. fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Apr 6, 2019 |
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Apr 6, 2019 20:33
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stinkypete posted:If you are crafty run electric in the wall to power the AP so you can hide the cat5 jack and power jack behind the appliance aka your wireless router/access point. Might be best to get POE. It's cleaner and easier to deal with. Ubiquiti's products are probably the best, but the configuration is a bit different than your average plug and play wireless router.
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Apr 6, 2019 23:47
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lol internet. posted:Any recommendations for concrete sealant? My patio is made of concrete with small pebbles mixed in it. I would like to seal it. Would urethane be my best bet? Also should the home depot stuff be okay or should I go somewhere else? This isn't a recommendation but some previous owner sprayed some legitimately intense tire shine on their tires and it oversprayed on the driveway. I don't know how long ago they did it, but I've been living here for over three years and those spots stay dry every time it rains.
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Apr 7, 2019 00:12
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Motronic posted:This has been said for the last 15 years. It's still not correct and likely won't ever be. I Agree with that statement 100% I meant to say Fiber from the outside of the house where the utilities come to the side of the house to your home network distribution box that is usually in a hall closet or other centrally located place in the home. Wifi is the future for in home data distribution. Convenience always will win over. I would rather have all of home my devices hardwired because I know they would be rock solid that way but I have a ton of wireless poo poo running because it is more convenient. We currently today run a fiber from the outside of the house to where the customers cable modem or copper modem used to sit. We place the ONT in the house because we don't have to buy environmentally hardened electronics. You don't have to rainproof and temperature proof stuff when the customer is already providing an environmentally controlled place for your equipment to sit.
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Apr 7, 2019 04:13
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couldcareless posted:Might be best to get POE. It's cleaner and easier to deal with. Ubiquiti's products are probably the best, but the configuration is a bit different than your average plug and play wireless router. This would be an excellent idea. Thanks for bringing this up.
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Apr 7, 2019 04:25
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Not looking to fix anything since I'm not an elevator mechanic, but I know we have various professionals here. My friend lives in a 12 story condo building on the 9th floor. A few nights ago he was taking the elevator to the lower level (garage below the first floor) and the elevator stopped at the first floor, shot up to the fourth floor fast enough that he said he would have thrown up if he had recently eaten, dropped at almost freefall speed then ground to a halt at the first floor, flew back up to the fourth floor again, dropped again to the first, then slowly and loudly made its way down to the lower level. Anyone want to speculate on what caused this or advise whether it would be legal to take building management hostage until they actually called in a repair instead of lying and saying they would several times and ignoring it?
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Apr 7, 2019 05:10
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I'm pretty sure you can just call in to your local planning and building department (every city should have one) and tell them what happened; they should send out an inspector. Don't rely on landlords to do poo poo. Hell, I wouldn't be surprised if any significant elevator repairs would require pulling a permit, so the planning/building department can also tell you whether your landlord actually did contact them about this issue.
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Apr 7, 2019 05:18
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GWBBQ posted:Not looking to fix anything since I'm not an elevator mechanic, but I know we have various professionals here. My friend lives in a 12 story condo building on the 9th floor. A few nights ago he was taking the elevator to the lower level (garage below the first floor) and the elevator stopped at the first floor, shot up to the fourth floor fast enough that he said he would have thrown up if he had recently eaten, dropped at almost freefall speed then ground to a halt at the first floor, flew back up to the fourth floor again, dropped again to the first, then slowly and loudly made its way down to the lower level. Does you friend live in the Hollywood Tower Hotel?
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Apr 7, 2019 05:22
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Jesus christ, that's an unforgettable near-death experience. I wonder if he paused after the doors opened...will it take off again? *violently throws self out of lift*
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Apr 7, 2019 07:43
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I'm not doubting that something happened, but the events as described should be impossible in a modern elevator.
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Apr 7, 2019 08:52
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There's usually a sign mounted inside the elevator saying something about any damage or malfunction should be reported to xxx-xxx-xxxx number.
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Apr 7, 2019 13:14
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Isn’t that usually just property management, who are stringing people along in this case?
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Apr 7, 2019 13:17
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GWBBQ posted:Not looking to fix anything since I'm not an elevator mechanic, but I know we have various professionals here. My friend lives in a 12 story condo building on the 9th floor. A few nights ago he was taking the elevator to the lower level (garage below the first floor) and the elevator stopped at the first floor, shot up to the fourth floor fast enough that he said he would have thrown up if he had recently eaten, dropped at almost freefall speed then ground to a halt at the first floor, flew back up to the fourth floor again, dropped again to the first, then slowly and loudly made its way down to the lower level. I have regular nightmares of this exact scenario.
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Apr 7, 2019 15:24
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I can't find it at the moment, but there was a good youtube video that went into the details of how elevators and their safety features work. The most common elevator design uses counterweights, and most of the time the elevator is not carrying anywhere near it's weight limit so the counterweights are the heavier than the cab. If the brakes fail or slip, it's the counterweights that drop, and that causes the cab to suddenly go up. lazydog fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Apr 7, 2019 |
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Apr 7, 2019 16:36
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Tom Petty was on the Muzak wasn't he?
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Apr 7, 2019 17:13
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What is a good brand/model for a battery powered chainsaw? Looking to buy a chainsaw, drill, screwdriver. Any recommendations? There is Home Depot, Lowe's, and Harbor Freight nearby to choose from.
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Apr 7, 2019 21:53
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SA Forums Poster posted:What is a good brand/model for a battery powered chainsaw? I have the Ryobi electric one, and it works fine if you just want to trim branches, cut some small trees/brush, etc. I wouldn't use it on anything bigger than say 4".
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Apr 7, 2019 23:14
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SA Forums Poster posted:What is a good brand/model for a battery powered chainsaw? I don't know about chainsaws, but I have Black and Decker battery 20v drill, driver, leaf blower, and weed wacker, and hedge trimmer. I have the 40v lawn mower. They're all fine for light/medium duty stuff around the house.
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Apr 8, 2019 01:57
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:I have the Ryobi electric one, and it works fine if you just want to trim branches, cut some small trees/brush, etc. I wouldn't use it on anything bigger than say 4". I got a dewalt chainsaw and it’s pretty decent for anything I don’t want to tackle with my Stihl farmboss. I like how the batteries are interchangeable with my other yellow stuff.
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Apr 8, 2019 02:13
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I'm making a TV "case" like this thing, where it's expected that players will be putting figurines directly on the TV surface. I'd like to protect the TV from scratches. The linked product uses a plexiglass sheet, which is certainly an option, but I was wondering if there was, like, a clear adhesive film I could apply to the TV instead? I'd like the protection to be thin so the figurines don't look like they're floating above the display surface. 24x36x1/16" plexiglass sheets do exist but, from the reviews I'm reading, they have a tendency to break during shipping. And they're not quite wide enough for the 43" TV I'm using. They're also too tall, so I guess I could trim some of the height and use it to pad out the width, but I've a feeling that wouldn't look very good. I guess I could also just say "gently caress it" and let the TV get scratched. How durable is the average TV screen against incidental scratches?
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Apr 8, 2019 03:39
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Oh, I have 6"-18" pine logs to cut through, do I have to buy a gasoline chainsaw?
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Apr 8, 2019 04:04
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SA Forums Poster posted:Oh, I have 6"-18" pine logs to cut through, do I have to buy a gasoline chainsaw? You can buy a corded electric.
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Apr 8, 2019 04:55
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I have this electric chainsaw and it's worked well for me. Make sure you get a beefy enough extension cord though.
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Apr 8, 2019 05:40
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm making a TV "case" like this thing, where it's expected that players will be putting figurines directly on the TV surface. I'd like to protect the TV from scratches. The linked product uses a plexiglass sheet, which is certainly an option, but I was wondering if there was, like, a clear adhesive film I could apply to the TV instead? I'd like the protection to be thin so the figurines don't look like they're floating above the display surface. 24x36x1/16" plexiglass sheets do exist but, from the reviews I'm reading, they have a tendency to break during shipping. And they're not quite wide enough for the 43" TV I'm using. They're also too tall, so I guess I could trim some of the height and use it to pad out the width, but I've a feeling that wouldn't look very good. You could try clear window tint, something like this https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Protection-Window-Film-Wide/dp/B004JAZLI8 (first google result)
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Apr 8, 2019 06:35
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n0tqu1tesane posted:I have this electric chainsaw and it's worked well for me. Make sure you get a beefy enough extension cord though. Thanks, I'll probably get that one. Anyone know of a model that has a battery, but can plug in a cord as an option?
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Apr 8, 2019 06:44
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n0tqu1tesane posted:I have this electric chainsaw and it's worked well for me. Make sure you get a beefy enough extension cord though. I have that saw as well, and have cut some pretty gnarly stuff with it with no problems. For example, I've cut through 28" hardwood trunks (already felled) by burying the blade and cutting around the perimeter, and I've cut fallen logs lengthwise with it to make benches. It's done way more than I expected it to.
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Apr 8, 2019 14:34
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thepaladin4488 posted:You could try clear window tint, something like this https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Protection-Window-Film-Wide/dp/B004JAZLI8 (first google result) Thanks! That sounds like basically what I'm looking for. Hopefully it doesn't hurt the viewing angle too much. Though installation appears to require a lot of water, which is a little unnerving around electronics...
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Apr 8, 2019 14:55
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thanks! That sounds like basically what I'm looking for. Hopefully it doesn't hurt the viewing angle too much. Though installation appears to require a lot of water, which is a little unnerving around electronics... Amazon Link posted:Note: Do not apply Window Film on plastic or plexiglas surfaces, motor vehicle windows, frosted, etched, leaded, cracked, holed, deeply scratched glass or glass that is very old (over forty years) I'm not sure that will work, those are made to stick to glass and I think pretty much all TV's now have a plastic screen. If you buy some Plexiglas definitely get a sheet that is big enough in all dimensions, joining a cut edge together would be very difficult to get right and will look like a big crack even when done perfectly. A 24" x 48" x 1/16" acrylic sheet will run you $32 + shipping from McMaster-Carr, or $28 + free shipping from ebay.
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Apr 8, 2019 15:32
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If you want a sheet of thin plastic, just go to a plastic store and ask for a sheet of thin plastic. Just make sure to get one with protective film on both sides if you don't want it to come pre-scratched.
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Apr 8, 2019 15:41
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