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They're very soft and the colour correction is very off. If they're scanned correctly it looks like they were shot with a plastic lens. I'd suspect you're not using your scanner properly as a V600 should be able to produce better results than what you're getting.
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Apr 5, 2019 06:09
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the default film holders on the v600 aren't great, you need to make sure your negatives are flat. the plane of focus is very small. also scan as a positive and then correct in photoshop afterwards instead of scanning as a negative with auto-color.
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Apr 5, 2019 08:06
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Cool, I'm looking at glass inserts for the 35mm holders to keep the film flat, as it did have an upwards bow. I'll wait for them to arrive and rescan, see what improvement I can get. I noticed on my 120 scans they were very soft until I fashioned a bit of card to hold them flat, I've got an entire new adjustable film holder on the way for that though that should make a vast improvement. edit: did a test and turned the film over so it was bowing downward instead, the result is a lot sharper, still can't colour correct my way out of a cardboard box with this E100. Looking forward to these glass inserts appearing now. 
Megabound fucked around with this message at 09:20 on Apr 5, 2019 |
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Apr 5, 2019 08:15
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the glass inserts aren't gonna help you
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Apr 5, 2019 16:05
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Megabound posted:still can't colour correct my way out of a cardboard box with this E100. it's underexposed
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Apr 5, 2019 18:28
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There was some self developing and scanning chat a few pages ago and Im ready to take the plunge. Does anyone have a preferred place for chemicals and supplies that they recommend? I need everything for developing C-41 and E-6.... tank, thermometer, changing bag etc. Does anyone sell a kit? I was looking on Amazon and B&H.
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Apr 7, 2019 15:22
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Got my stuff from amazon, since we maintain a prime membership. Any reputable retailer—B&H and Adorama included—would be fine though.
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Apr 7, 2019 15:39
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I guess I'll go the Amazon route for the hardware then. Im really surprised about how few prime options they have for developing chemicals. I can't find anything for E6 and B&H does not accept online orders for a lot of chemicals. Either the chemicals are tough to ship or this is really more a niche thing than I thought. I'll probably hit up the B&H store in NYC next weekend.
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Apr 7, 2019 16:37
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Looks like Freestyle offers an E-6 kit via online order. That’s cool that you can actually go to B&H though. https://www.freestylephoto.biz/1181...lxoCOBgQAvD_BwE
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Apr 7, 2019 17:03
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Bookmarking that. I'm not normally so lucky, I life a couple hours north but it just so happens I'll be in the city next weekend. The scanner is ordered... Im sure I'll be posting some scans soon.
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Apr 8, 2019 03:47
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I bought C41 chemistry online from Adorama (this Cinestill kit). I live in Thailand and I just couldn't find it anywhere locally. Adorama was the only place that would ship it internationally. I ordered it on a Monday and it was waiting at my condo on Wednesday. I paid $55 shipping on $75 of product. E6 is hard to find period. I bought the last box of Tetenal E6 chemistry from a local lab, but they told me that it was probably the last box available anywhere in Thailand and they weren't going to be getting any more. Helen Highwater fucked around with this message at 11:03 on Apr 8, 2019 |
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Apr 8, 2019 11:00
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I haven’t tried it, but FPP sells an E-6 kit and they ship internationally.
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Apr 8, 2019 12:24
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All this E-6 chat makes me want to try slide film, but I’m still quite the nooblet so I’m worried I’d just trash it. 
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Apr 8, 2019 12:27
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But drat, pulling positives right off the developing reel...
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Apr 8, 2019 12:27
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Bro I'm a nooblet too, this is my first roll of slide film and I'll be happy if I get two decent frames off the whole thing. You gotta start somewhere!
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Apr 8, 2019 13:34
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Yeah, that's a more positive way to look at it.
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Apr 8, 2019 13:38
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The film back randomy fell off my Bronica, exposing the current frame. I think the previous and following shots should have a little extra light on them ?
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Apr 9, 2019 11:39
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unpacked robinhood posted:The film back randomy fell off my Bronica, exposing the current frame. Extra lomo for free.
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Apr 9, 2019 20:09
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Just got my V550 up and running. Any tips for color correction? Ignore the dust and scratches, this negative has seen some poo poo and was shot on an old Kodak Retina IIa. Edit* I just saw the color correction advice above is pretty much what I did. a dingus fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Apr 13, 2019 |
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Apr 13, 2019 22:16
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Wild EEPROM posted:also scan as a positive and then correct in photoshop afterwards instead of scanning as a negative with auto-color.
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Apr 13, 2019 23:38
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Specifically, invert, curves adjustment per r/g/b layer for black and white point, and then fine tune with the eye dropper directly on the troublesome spot in the curves adjustment (also per channel.)
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Apr 13, 2019 23:39
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Do you guys know if there's an easy way to re-line the felt light traps in those reloadable plastic 35mm canisters? I have like six of them that the felt light seals have just pulled out or otherwise disintegrated and I guess I can just replace them but I'd hate to toss them if it's an easy fix. Everything I google is replacing light seals in cameras but nothing for the actual canisters. I'm about to load a bunch of film for a trip abroad and I want to use more than the five good canisters I have, but if push comes to shove I'll just stock up on HP5 when I get to Japan.
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Apr 15, 2019 02:35
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AFAIK most of those reloadable canisters are disposable in the end. but someone invented felt tape, maybe it'll work?
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Apr 15, 2019 18:35
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I've been shooting a few rolls for a photography class and my camera seems super sensitive to light. It's an old pentax, and using iso400 b/w film. Even on a cloudy afternoon i often have to crank it to full 500-1000 speed and f16 to get the light meter balanced, leaving me no more wiggle room for effects. At least i dont have to worry about motion blur but jeez am i doing something wrong or is this camera funky or is iso400 really just only for twilight? My first rolls seemed to develop decently enough though.
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Apr 24, 2019 05:04
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Are you sure your meter is correct and your shots aren't underexposed? B/W film has a lot of latitude for over/underexposure while still looking ok. 400iso is a good all around daytime film speed.
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Apr 24, 2019 05:12
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I took my camera to glaziers and they said the meter was a bit weird but still good if the arrow was in the middle. Same as my teacher said. My camera is an asahi pentax spotomatic, SP II model, the weirdest thing is the light meter only turns on if i push up a switch on the front side, which also lets me see the aperture open/close manually as i tweak it 
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Apr 24, 2019 05:17
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got any sevens posted:I took my camera to glaziers and they said the meter was a bit weird but still good if the arrow was in the middle. Same as my teacher said. That seems like normal behavior to me, it's (sorta) the same on my 6x7.
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Apr 24, 2019 05:34
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got any sevens posted:I've been shooting a few rolls for a photography class and my camera seems super sensitive to light. It's an old pentax, and using iso400 b/w film. Even on a cloudy afternoon i often have to crank it to full 500-1000 speed and f16 to get the light meter balanced, leaving me no more wiggle room for effects. At least i dont have to worry about motion blur but jeez am i doing something wrong or is this camera funky or is iso400 really just only for twilight? Spotmatic used a mercury battery that you can't buy anymore, so the hearing aid battery that you have purchased will not provide the correct voltage to provide the correct meter reading. The solution is either: 1) buy the adaptor with a resistor in it, 2) learn to manually meter, or 3) move to canada where mercury batteries are legal
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Apr 24, 2019 05:55
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Or buy a weincell battery.
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Apr 24, 2019 06:13
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To save the batter, the meter turns off after a while, you need to toggle that switch on the side to turn it back on. You don't need to leave it in the up position, you can click it back down and the meter will stay on. Wein cells are the correct voltage but they will drain very fast and the voltage isn't constant - as they drain, they produce less voltage which will affect the accuracy of the metering. You can get adapters that let you put an SR43 hearing aid battery into the camera, these provide the correct voltage all the way through the battery's life, SR43s last for ever and are cheap. The adapter is fairly pricey at around $40 a pop but you only need one.
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Apr 24, 2019 07:25
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Yeah i got one of those new batteries, the meter does work, i guess film is just way pickier than i hoped
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Apr 24, 2019 08:38
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got any sevens posted:Yeah i got one of those new batteries, the meter does work, i guess film is just way pickier than i hoped It's not that the film is picky, exposure is exposure on digital or analogue (dynamic range is a different thing entirely). I'd be surprised if you needed 1/500 or 1/1000 shutter speed AND f16 aperture with iso 400 film in cloudy light, the sunny 16 rule (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_16_rule) would seem to indicate you'd need 1/400 and f11 in a mildly cloudy day (or 1/200 at f16). I think it's more likely the lightmeter on the camera is off, if you have a digital camera with some kind of exposure indication you can try comparing the two on the same scene and see if the digital camera agrees with the lightmeter in your film camera. I did this with my Minolta SRT100 with a hearing-aid battery and the lightmeter was surprisingly close, within about 0.3 stops of the digital camera in a few different lighting conditions. EDIT: Although 1/500 or 1/1000 at f11 and iso 400 could be fairly reasonable on a less overcast day depending on the scene, you could always get some lower iso film or an ND filter if you want to shoot wider apertures outside in daylight. Blackhawk fucked around with this message at 10:36 on Apr 24, 2019 |
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Apr 24, 2019 10:31
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Fancy batteries aren't needed on Spotmatics. They use a balancing meter circuit that corrects for odd voltages. Anything that fits in the battery compartment will be fine. The needle being in the middle just means the galvanometer that drives it hasn't been knocked around and is getting a balanced voltage. Your meter is probably out of tune; that's not unusual on these cameras, they're rather old. Just about any place that services film cameras can service a Spotmatic if you want to get it CLA'd. They're easy to work on. Otherwise start using Sunny 16 or another camera or your phone as a meter. Negative films are not very picky about exposure and you can go a little bit under or quite a bit over before having problems. Err on the side of over exposure. If your lens is not an "SMC Super-Takumar" then the switch behavior you mentioned is normal. The SMC (Super multi-coated) lenses have an aperture linkage that lets them tell the Spotmatic F what aperture they're set to and allows the open aperture metering to work when the lens cap is off. With regular Super-Takumars or other M42 lenses it reverts to stop down metering, requiring you to push the switch up to let the meter read through the closed down aperture. Edit: Oops, noticed you have an SPII and not an F. Pushing the switch up to meter is normal. Spotmatics, aside from the F, use stop down metering. Sauer fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Apr 24, 2019 |
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Apr 24, 2019 11:33
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Some shots from a local film photography photo-swap event. 
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Apr 25, 2019 00:06
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Muted colors plus soft light? Nice.
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Apr 25, 2019 00:21
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^^ I enjoy the colour palette in your second photo. This month I've had two separate rolls of 120 film come out of the tank with air bells along the upper edge of the roll about 5mm in from the edge. I had started using Pryocat and thought that maybe it was foaming up and the top of the roll was only partially submerged so I developed another roll with HC-110 and had the same problem. The only other difference from my usual process was new glassware. I have replaced all my old plastic labware with glass. Filled the new flask up to the 500ml line with and dumped it into the tank with a reel to see the fluid level coming up to just under the upper rim of the reel instead of covering it completely. Even with supposedly "good quality" glassware the 'Approx.' annotation on the flask really does mean approximately. Will mix up 600ml from now on. Test your gear folks.
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Apr 25, 2019 03:49
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got any sevens posted:I took my camera to glaziers and they said the meter was a bit weird but still good if the arrow was in the middle. Same as my teacher said. My camera does not need to be a 16/1000 to shoot 400iso and is actually properly calibrated. If you care enough to spend some money Eric Henrickson can clr and calibrate and do a real good job. Everything else is you noted beyond the exposure totally normal.
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Apr 25, 2019 18:33
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So I finally managed to start setting up a dark room for printing! Admittedly not the most sterile environment but it'll do for now. One issue that the space is has is that there's no running water. I guess I'll carry a few big rear end jerry cans and a bucket to dump used up liquids. What's the best way to dispose of used chemicals? The lab near me just flushes them down the toilet apparently. Also, when it comes to colour printing, do I need different chemicals as well as paper? I've only played around with b&w so far
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Apr 30, 2019 11:38
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Pooper Trooper posted:One issue that the space is has is that there's no running water. I guess I'll carry a few big rear end jerry cans and a bucket to dump used up liquids. This will probably get super annoying after a while but I know several people that do this for printing in their backyard sheds and its workable. Pooper Trooper posted:What's the best way to dispose of used chemicals? The lab near me just flushes them down the toilet apparently. The best way is to contact your city/town/county's sanitation department and ask but most people just dump their chems down the drain. Developers and stop rapidly degrade into harmless substances (mostly, the bromides aren't happy stuff but we're talking fractions of fractions of grams) but used fixer contains silver which may or may not be a problem from some waste treatment systems or your septic tank if you have that.You'd be dumping such a minuscule amount that its likely a non-issue. Pooper Trooper posted:Also, when it comes to colour printing, do I need different chemicals as well as paper? I've only played around with b&w so far Colour printing uses the RA-4 process. It needs different paper and chemistry and prior to fixing the process is done in complete darkness; no safelight.
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Apr 30, 2019 14:19
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Printing is fun but I don't have the space for it so I just stick to developing the rolls in my guest bathroom and scanning them to my computer. Have fun though because it's really rewarding to watch your pictures slowly form before your eyes. Also you can do things like the sabattier effect and make cool looking prints.
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Apr 30, 2019 14:59
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