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QuarkJets posted:any idea why there's a rotted-out section of pipe or are we hoping that a little excavation will reveal a reason? I got it scoped. It’s the line from my kitchen sink to the main drain. It runs down the basement wall and then under the foundation. When the house was built they didn’t put it at a slight decline like they should have. I discovered it when the kitchen sink started backing up if we were doing a lot of dishes. I augered the pipe and eventually started coming up with clay so sent a camera down it. I know where the hole is. I just don’t know if it’s the only hole or if spots before that are a few specks of rust away from also turning in to a hole. I actually discovered it like two years ago but have been putting off fixing it because once I cleared it out it isn’t an issue day to day and I am not excited about putting a hole in my basement. It’s just gonna become a really big problem someday and I need to fix it at least one day before that. I’m running out of excuses though so intend to do it within the next few weeks. Thoguh fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Apr 7, 2019 |
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Apr 7, 2019 21:34
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Thoguh posted:I got it scoped. It’s the line from my kitchen sink to the main drain. It runs down the basement wall and then under the foundation. When the house was built they didn’t put it at a slight decline like they should have. I discovered it when the kitchen sink started backing up if we were doing a lot of dishes. I augered the pipe and eventually started coming up with clay so sent a camera down it. I know where the hole is. I just don’t know if it’s the only hole or if spots before that are a few specks of rust away from also turning in to a hole. It's definitely not a "forever fix", but it sounds like you have the right access now......have you considered getting it lined?
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Apr 7, 2019 21:43
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I guess this isn't really about haunted houses. I am eyeing a house that looks like it's been in a time capsule since the 70's/80's. 50% of the previous owners died in the house. If the cabinets open themselves while viewing the property, I'm running.
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Apr 8, 2019 02:52
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If you can get a good deal on it because of that, loving go for it. My grandparents bought a house that the previous owner blew his brains out in. They got a hell of a deal.
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Apr 8, 2019 03:01
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Anyone got pointers on what to use to remotely have control over lights in your house (if it matters I need to control the lights in a house in a different state)? My father-in-law just died and I would like to be able to randomly turn lights on and off at his (now vacant) house while I am dealing with things and before it gets sold.
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Apr 8, 2019 18:43
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Jose Cuervo posted:Anyone got pointers on what to use to remotely have control over lights in your house (if it matters I need to control the lights in a house in a different state)? My father-in-law just died and I would like to be able to randomly turn lights on and off at his (now vacant) house while I am dealing with things and before it gets sold. For a temporary situation like this just go get some lamp timers. But understand you're not fooling anyone.
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Apr 8, 2019 19:04
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Imho instead of trying to install some fancy IoT solution I would just set up a couple of mechanical light timers. Or you can spend some more money for a digital one, guess they even make them with random functionally these days: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076576DC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.24QCbJCMRKSC
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Apr 8, 2019 19:09
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Putting up some floating bookshelves and drilled through some wiring behind a stud. Good news: I'm alive Good news #2: Looks like the outlets in that room were daisy-chained one to the other and the line I hit looks like it is going to the last outlet in a chain which is one I don't care about. Am I crazy for thinking I can just unwire/cap the wires coming out of the second to last outlet and the ones going into the last outlet and slap a blank faceplate over the last one? I'd rather not rip off a bunch of drywall trying to repair one line to get one outlet working.
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Apr 8, 2019 20:51
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novamute posted:Putting up some floating bookshelves and drilled through some wiring behind a stud. If I were you I would cut enough drywall out to put a proper electrical box in there, and splice the wires together inside the box. You can then put a solid cover on it. Not much more work than what you were planning, it would satisfy code as far as I know, and your outlet would still work. I think they sell retrofit boxes that are able to install this way without having to patch any drywall afterwards (they definitely sell low voltage plastic ones like this, even using one of those would be better than nothing).
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Apr 8, 2019 20:56
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novamute posted:Am I crazy for thinking I can just unwire/cap the wires coming out of the second to last outlet and the ones going into the last outlet and slap a blank faceplate over the last one? I'd rather not rip off a bunch of drywall trying to repair one line to get one outlet working. My big concern here is that you've compromised the wires inside the wall. Your solution should include some means of making as sure as reasonably possible that the wires don't get used by some hypothetical future owner who wants to run power to where that last outlet is. I don't know what code is here, but I'd be inclined to say cap the wires, stick a label on them, and then shove them out of the junction box at both ends, then stick a blank faceplate on the last outlet.
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Apr 8, 2019 21:01
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Every homeowner needs to learn how to cut and repair drywall (or, for older homes, plaster) anyway. Now is a good time.
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Apr 8, 2019 21:08
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We're in the process of getting our entire home painted while still living in it (horrible idea - do not recommend). While we have stuff off the top of cabinets in the kitchen, I was gonna do a thorough clean and put down some covering to protect them from getting gross from the poo poo that floats around when we're cooking. Any recommendations on cleaner and covering to protect? Just a standard degreaser + plastic? Note that the tops are not visible to anyone. It was just disgusting up there (dust + grease accumulated over years) when I was taking things down to prep for the painters. And yes, I know the ideal solution would be to install a range hood that vents outside, so nasty crap can't settle on the tops of the cabinets. It's on our wish list, but not in the plans right now.
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Apr 9, 2019 03:33
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Good-Natured Filth posted:We're in the process of getting our entire home painted while still living in it (horrible idea - do not recommend). While we have stuff off the top of cabinets in the kitchen, I was gonna do a thorough clean and put down some covering to protect them from getting gross from the poo poo that floats around when we're cooking. Any recommendations on cleaner and covering to protect? Just a standard degreaser + plastic? I would just grab some of the thin plastic sheeting usually used on the ground when painting. It's really thin, and usually comes in 3-5 packs in the painting section of any hardware store. If paint can't get through it I don't see how grease and such would.
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Apr 9, 2019 03:45
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SpartanIvy posted:I would just grab some of the thin plastic sheeting usually used on the ground when painting. It's really thin, and usually comes in 3-5 packs in the painting section of any hardware store. If paint can't get through it I don't see how grease and such would. Don't buy those sucker packs. Buy the 100x10' rolls for the same price as 2 of those packs and cut it to size with scissors. Or just accept that the tops of your cabinets are nasty but out of sight. I think most people's are pretty nasty where they get up there once a year on average.
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Apr 9, 2019 04:08
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Leperflesh posted:Every homeowner needs to learn how to cut and repair drywall (or, for older homes, plaster) anyway. Now is a good time. Speaking of, what do folks in the thread generally do for drywall repair? The few times I've had to cut a hole, I've just reattached the cut-out section, spackled along the edges, sprayed on some similar-ish looking tetxure (in my case, knockdown that I'm not great at reproducing), and then painted But there have also been 2 times where I couldn't do that, for instance one time because it was all water-damaged due to a leak in the ceiling. For that I went to my local Ace Hardware and found that they sell small drywall panels, about 2'x2'; in each case I just cut it to the right size and then attached it as though I had the original piece. This requires more texturing and doesn't look super good (because I'm not good at making knockdown texture that looks exactly like what's actually on my walls/ceiling) but it works. Do others in the thread patch drywall similar to me? Part of me wonders if I should buy actual joint compound instead of spackle. But I've never used joint compound and at my hardware store is only seems to come in big quantities
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Apr 9, 2019 04:24
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I have a drywall guy but that's just me.
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Apr 9, 2019 04:26
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My father in law taught my wife how to patch drywall when we bought our lovely house, so she just muds and sands until it is smooth. IDK what we'd would do if it were an orange peel wall.
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Apr 9, 2019 06:46
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Last night I learned that small toddler socks can, if they so choose, sneak past the washing machine drum and make it all the way to the drain pump impeller, seizing the impeller and leaving a washer full of water that will never drain. It's the joys of home ownership AND parenting all wrapped in to one! Took forever to drain the water out... procedure is to crack the trap/filter access cover and let the water trickle out through the treads while you vacuum it up. Combine that with a tiny 1/2 gallon wet/dry vac and I was probably vacuuming for a good half hour before it was drained enough. Pulled at least 3 gallons out of there. So PSA: put infant/toddler socks in a mesh laundry bag before washing them...
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Apr 9, 2019 13:56
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therobit posted:My father in law taught my wife how to patch drywall when we bought our lovely house, so she just muds and sands until it is smooth. IDK what we'd would do if it were an orange peel wall. This stuff https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homax-20-oz-Wall-Orange-Peel-Low-Odor-Water-Based-Spray-Texture-4092-06/100154309 Works ok at reproducing the orange peel look on walls.
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Apr 9, 2019 14:08
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QuarkJets posted:Do others in the thread patch drywall similar to me? Part of me wonders if I should buy actual joint compound instead of spackle. But I've never used joint compound and at my hardware store is only seems to come in big quantities One hot tip is to cut the replacement piece slightly larger than the hole, and then trace the replacement piece's outline and re-cut the hole to match it perfectly. Put 2 of the longest furring strips (1x2) inside the hole you can, and anchor the new piece to the old wall/ceiling with screws through both into the strips. I then usually tape and use joint compound. You can get powder versions that mix with water so you don't waste an entire tub (it dries out in a few months) for a simple repair, but you should experiment with it first to get an idea of how much water to add. Peanut butter is a rough approximation. Other than that, expect to sand way more than a professional would have to in order to get it smooth. I typically use a oscillating multi tool with a sanding pad to save my arms. Get a really bright light that you can shine on the spot from many different angles to see where the imperfections are that need to be re-mudded and re-sanded. Definitely not how the pros do it so quickly, but as an amateur drywall hacker, I can at least get it done with this procedure good enough to not be noticeable after painting.
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Apr 9, 2019 14:36
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B-Nasty posted:Put 2 of the longest furring strips (1x2) inside the hole you can, and anchor the new piece to the old wall/ceiling with screws through both into the strips. My friend let me introduce you to something life changing: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wal-Board-Tools-Drywall-Repair-Clip-6-Pack-54-014/202015408
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Apr 9, 2019 15:16
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California patches are free though.
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Apr 9, 2019 15:18
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I haven't had a ton of luck with butterfly/California patches, especially with larger holes. I tend to find it hard to seat the replacement piece perfectly flush in the hole, probably due to my over-pressure on the knife putting on mud. Works great for small holes in walls, though. I think I also am just paranoid that that repair leaves a much weaker spot in the wall. It always seems like slight pressure on the patch would crack the paper around it and result in it opening up again. I've never actually tried this out, however.
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Apr 9, 2019 15:50
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mattfl posted:This stuff Sweet. I was googling yesterday trying to figure out what the name was for the texture on my walls and this is gonna save me a lot of headache I think.
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Apr 9, 2019 18:13
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novamute posted:Sweet. I was googling yesterday trying to figure out what the name was for the texture on my walls and this is gonna save me a lot of headache I think. It's expensive, but works in a pinch. I've used the Knockdown one before as my houses have a Monterrey drag type texture. I patch normally I guess, but sand the texture off for a few inches around the repair, and then re texture the entire area. It helps hide the repair better. If you have a knockdown type texture you can also use a sponge or some other method. When I didn't want to pay for a 15 dollar can of that stuff, I used some thinned patch compound and a plastic bag to blop it on there and knock it down.
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Apr 9, 2019 18:36
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poo poo POST MALONE posted:I have a drywall guy but it's just me.
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Apr 9, 2019 22:01
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Mr. Powers posted:I guess this isn't really about haunted houses. I am eyeing a house that looks like it's been in a time capsule since the 70's/80's. 50% of the previous owners died in the house. If the cabinets open themselves while viewing the property, I'm running. Just get ghoul insurance you'll be fine
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Apr 9, 2019 23:32
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mattfl posted:This stuff I use this brand, but with knockdown texture. It works pretty well
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Apr 10, 2019 09:23
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Mud and taping is a time well spent. I did a wall patch when I first moved in using a California patch and it sucked. Then I tore my basement down to the studs and rebuilt it. After that I redid the patch and it went from kindergarten noodle art to a loving picasso
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Apr 12, 2019 19:39
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My last house was on a slab and where the drain stack from upstairs came down through a living room wall into the slab, the outer radius of the pipe ate into the plane of the wall by about 1/4”. When the house was built, I think they just bent the drywall over it, and since the curve was gentle enough it didn’t really stand out. We pulled the carpet out to put in engineered wood, and I noticed the rotted tack strips. I cut the drywall out but couldn’t find the leak anywhere. There didn’t seem to be any liquid running down the pipe. After running every upstairs faucet for several minutes I finally saw water bubbling up between the concrete and the pipe. We got a plumber out and he broke up the slab to get further into the pipe. There was a nail through the pipe BELOW the slab level. It had eventually rusted out and let water get between the pipe and slab. They installed the pipe without a sleeve or anything. Anyway, fixing the drywall was a nightmare. If I were replacing the entire 4x8 panel I could gently bend it like it was originally, but I was just doing a patch over a pipe that extended into the plane of the drywall. It never looked right after that. I have no idea how the gently caress a nail got through there. Must have been some wild times back in the early 90s when the development went up.
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Apr 13, 2019 15:11
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Is this the right thread to ask about water softeners? More specifically, is it normal for a water softener to use about 230 gallons per night? It's set to regen nightly. I starting tracking down what might be causing a leak in the middle of the night and after eliminating everything else, I believe it's because the water softener is set to regen at 2am (and the city shows us using a lot of water nightly between 2 and 3am). I did find that we were out of potassium so I refilled the container. Does running out of medium (potassium in our case) trigger extra water being used in the regen process? Is it normal to regen nightly and use a ton of water?
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Apr 16, 2019 04:54
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Yes, water softeners use a good amount of water when regenerating. Figure out how many gallons of water it can soften before needing to regenerate and program it to only regenerate as often as you estimate yourself using that amount. Many newer systems actually measure water usage and only regenerate when approaching their limit.
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Apr 16, 2019 06:43
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230 gallons daily seems really high. It depends on a lot of factors, but I highly doubt your system is so large that it actually needs to use that volume of water to regenerate every night.
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Apr 16, 2019 12:21
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Water softeners use 50-150 gallons per regeneration, and regeneration should run every 1500-3000 gallons of water used (5-10 days probably) depending on how hard your water is. If yours is using 200+ gallons every night then something is wrong with it. https://web.archive.org/web/20101007181800/http://www.watervalue.com/softener_regen_water_usage.html
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Apr 16, 2019 14:46
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Mizaq posted:Is this the right thread to ask about water softeners? More specifically, is it normal for a water softener to use about 230 gallons per night? It's set to regen nightly. I starting tracking down what might be causing a leak in the middle of the night and after eliminating everything else, I believe it's because the water softener is set to regen at 2am (and the city shows us using a lot of water nightly between 2 and 3am). I did find that we were out of potassium so I refilled the container. Does running out of medium (potassium in our case) trigger extra water being used in the regen process? Is it normal to regen nightly and use a ton of water? yeah that's not right at all. Depending on the age of the water softener, it should be on a timer for regen, or demand based regeneration. Mine regenerates every 14 days, or when I've come close to using it's capacity to soften water. Why are you using Potassium? If it's a really old model it is probably worth replacing, or just bypassing.
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Apr 16, 2019 16:35
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The softener came with the house and Costco sells potassium by the bag for softeners. I had it checked out professionally when we moved in, haven't touched it since except to once clean the medium container, and refill it every so often. It hasn't always been using that much water, at least according to the city's hourly records from my meter going back a year or more (I didn't look further back than last November).
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Apr 16, 2019 22:31
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Is there a medical reason you're using Potassium Chloride instead of Salt in the water softener? Potassium is like 30 bucks a bag. Salt is 5 or 6. The only people I know that use Potassium are old people on severely salt restricted diets. Even then it's cheaper to just use bottled water for cooking, or buy an RO system, instead of putting Potassium through a water softener. Without knowing what kind of water softener you have and how it works, we can't offer any advice. Do any of these look familiar? https://www.softenerparts.com/Identify_Brand_of_Control_Valve_s/21.htm The tanks are not important. The control valve is where everything important happens. A name, model number, something like that would be useful. Something is causing the softener to regenerate more than necessary and probably for longer, my guess is something is broken on the control valve.
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Apr 16, 2019 23:08
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How do I lawn? What do I need to know about lawn maintenance/upkeep? Mine's not very large (probably 0.25 acres), but what should I be doing other than mowing? And what mower should I get?
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Apr 17, 2019 02:06
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Residency Evil posted:How do I lawn? What do I need to know about lawn maintenance/upkeep? Mine's not very large (probably 0.25 acres), but what should I be doing other than mowing? And what mower should I get? Hire someone. It's like a housekeeper but outside. We have 0.015 acres of grass (and like triple that in yard, the rest is California native plants) and we hire it out.
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Apr 17, 2019 03:00
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Yeah dude. Just pay someone to deal with it. It’s not an effective use of your time.
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Apr 17, 2019 03:07
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