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armorer posted:Who makes a good PLA these days? I was looking on Amazon at hatchbox but a lot of the recent reviews are pretty poor. I think Amazon has their own "brand" that is decent? AMZN?
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Apr 16, 2019 00:32
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I don't even know how to tell the difference between a good PLA and a bad PLA. I've bought a bunch of spools and they've all printed great, save for one silk gold that I haven't managed to get a single functional print out of
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Apr 16, 2019 00:38
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armorer posted:Who makes a good PLA these days? I was looking on Amazon at hatchbox but a lot of the recent reviews are pretty poor. Atomicfilament.com you'll thank me later.
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Apr 16, 2019 01:04
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Sockser posted:I don't even know how to tell the difference between a good PLA and a bad PLA. I've bought a bunch of spools and they've all printed great, save for one silk gold that I haven't managed to get a single functional print out of But see that's exactly why I asked!
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Apr 16, 2019 01:05
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I have no idea what tool I need to repin the male connector equivalent to this female connector : The idea was that we could take a lot of the cable off the broken heat bed and use that to give it some wiggle room so it's not under a lot of strain. I already have a strain relief printing up for him, but we both figure if there's an extra foot or two of cable, the solder connectors won't be under a lot of stress that way. The red ones posted earlier in the thread are the ones we were planning to use. There's also the option of ordering a new heat bed with the female connector (which we honestly would probably prefer to do), but we're still waiting to hear back from the company.
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Apr 16, 2019 02:38
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I think Amazon has their own "brand" that is decent? Amazon's PLA is decent. But it's AmazonBasics; AMZN is something else (which may or may not be any good, idk.)
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Apr 16, 2019 02:49
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eSun's Pro PLA is really good
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Apr 16, 2019 04:04
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Sockser posted:I don't even know how to tell the difference between a good PLA and a bad PLA. I've bought a bunch of spools and they've all printed great, save for one silk gold that I haven't managed to get a single functional print out of The main way filament can be bad is being the wrong/inconsistent diameter, or not circular.
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Apr 16, 2019 04:19
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A bit of alcohol and thingiverse envy has led to me buying a $70 spool of PLA https://www.filablend.com/collections/curated-blends/products/crayon-box-red-blue-yellow
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Apr 16, 2019 04:40
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AMZN is decent. I think Hatchbox is better...but I don't print a whole lot of PLA.
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Apr 16, 2019 05:06
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Is something wonky with Fusion 360's stress tests? It seems like no matter what I change about a model set up as a cantilever tube doing a test with a force going in one direction, it always flexes the exact same amount. Nylon body, steel body, loving carbon fiber reinforced plastic, always bends the same amount. Makes me wonder about the reliability of the pressure tests, although at least the end result varies on those.
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Apr 16, 2019 06:01
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I haven't done stress testing in fusion 360, but in SolidWorks the simulation module automatically scales your simulation results by some factor to make them visible (since a lot of the time you're talking about displacements of less than a millimeter). so the nylon part might be bending five times as much as the carbon fiber part, but the software is scaling the carbon fiber results up by a greater factor, and the visible maximum displacement ends up the same. Look for a scale somewhere.
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Apr 16, 2019 06:06
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...Motherfucker.
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Apr 16, 2019 06:27
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bring back old gbs posted:Is it safe to use solder that you can melt with a heat gun through a plastic tube? Seems like it would flow if any resistance at all is ever introduced That would be all solder. A heat gun gets plenty hot enough to remove through hole components from a pcb. That connector is called an aviation plug and I think the contacts might soldered into the back of the pins. You want to keep the female side on the live end if you weren’t already planning to. Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Apr 16, 2019 |
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Apr 16, 2019 07:36
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Frozen Pizza Party posted:Atomicfilament.com you'll thank me later. Thanks, I'll pick up a roll from here to try out. I'll also pick up a roll of amazon basics. Right now I'm printing various printer upgrades (like parts for a lack enclosure) and I'm going to burn through the spool of generic white pla I have relatively soon. I want to print some board game accessories and some dnd minis, and a few other random things. I also plan to try printing PETG once the enclosure is done, and TPU once I get the feeding system upgraded.
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Apr 16, 2019 10:22
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armorer posted:I also plan to try printing PETG once the enclosure is done, and TPU once I get the feeding system upgraded. You shouldn't need an enclosure for PETG. I use it under the same conditions as PLA, just with the appropriate temps and slower speeds. I've read in a couple of places that PETG will also stick just fine to blue painter's tape on an unheated bed, but I've never tried it myself.
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Apr 16, 2019 11:25
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Acid Reflux posted:You shouldn't need an enclosure for PETG. I use it under the same conditions as PLA, just with the appropriate temps and slower speeds. I've read in a couple of places that PETG will also stick just fine to blue painter's tape on an unheated bed, but I've never tried it myself. Oh, cool. Good to know! I know I'll need it for ABS, and assumed I'd need it for PETG as well. I have a heated bed so that's not an issue. I also want the enclosure because I have cats, and while they haven't messed with the printer yet I don't doubt they will eventually. One less thing to go wrong on a long print!
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Apr 16, 2019 12:34
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For ABS, almost certainly, so enclose away! I've come to accept that all of my prints will contain a certain percentage by weight of cat hair. I think of it as reinforcement material, like carbon or glass fiber. 
Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 13:43 on Apr 16, 2019 |
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Apr 16, 2019 12:49
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Rapulum_Dei posted:That would be all solder. A heat gun gets plenty hot enough to remove through hole components from a pcb. Yeah last time I looked into getting those connectors for my cnc machine they used solder cups. Might also be some crimp ons out there but all I saw was solder cups.
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Apr 16, 2019 13:39
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Oh yeah my group was given a Replicator v1 at work that had been in storage for god knows how many years and holy poo poo does it make me appreciate my Prusa mk3. It works, but drat it ain’t pretty. Also the ABS has been in storage so long it’s absorbed some moisture, which I didn’t realize ABS could even do. Lots of bubbles and popping all over the place!
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Apr 16, 2019 13:42
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Sockser posted:I don't even know how to tell the difference between a good PLA and a bad PLA. I've bought a bunch of spools and they've all printed great, save for one silk gold that I haven't managed to get a single functional print out of I picked up some PLA that didn't meet the stores standards for cheap (8 CAD a Kg). Had lots of moisture in it, so needed to be dried. It would snap after a few hours under any stress. It also had a clay like consistency after printing, making cleaning up support a bit of a pain after.
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Apr 16, 2019 14:06
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Fayez Butts posted:Fusion 360, bay bee i love suggestions like this. its like, "hey, i want to learn how to change the oil of my car" and the answer is, "well, first you need to learn how to replace the transmission."
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Apr 16, 2019 14:47
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If you want to make your own stuff, more so functional things, parametric CAD is actually the easier option. If you're going with DCC tools like 3dsmax et al, good luck I guess.
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Apr 16, 2019 15:23
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EVIL Gibson posted:i love suggestions like this. its like, "hey, i want to learn how to change the oil of my car" and the answer is, "well, first you need to learn how to replace the transmission." Ehhh Fusion is as simple or complicated as you want to make it. You could be drawing 2d sketches and extruding them to get a 'complete' object within half an hour of learning the interface. You can also get into parametric modelling, or material stress testing, or start doing CAM toolpaths with it if you want to get more in depth. I'd say the most important part to learning Fusion is starting with a very simple project. Like, literally a box with some bolt holes in it. Start with 2d, don't get ahead of yourself and try to make it mimic a traditional 3d modeller. It can do that stuff, but it really seems to want you to start from a 2d sketch as your base, that's what you attach all your measurements and constraints to. Don't be afraid of Fusion, just install it and poke around.   Have a bulbasaur and a pulley/gear thing i've been working on
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Apr 16, 2019 15:37
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I didn't realize I could get Fusion 360 for free, so I had steered away from it. I think in the long run, I'd be better off just diving in with some tutorials and learning what I need as I go.
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Apr 16, 2019 15:45
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Fusion 360 is a great entry level modeler because the system of drawing basic sketches and doing simple features like revolves and extrudes on them is very easy to pick up. edit: It just so happens to also be extremely powerful and work like the fancy schmancy software the pros use, so once you're good at it, you can do some pretty cool stuff.
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Apr 16, 2019 17:05
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Two days after getting my refund approved the Melzi board I ordered is mysteriously moving again. Whoops. Oh well, it's nearly a month late at this point. Can I re-ask my question though? What's the difference between a Melzi 2.0 board and a Melzi 3.5? Normally I'd check the RepRap wiki but it doesn't have anything on models past 2.0.
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Apr 16, 2019 21:50
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Funzo posted:I didn't realize I could get Fusion 360 for free, so I had steered away from it. I think in the long run, I'd be better off just diving in with some tutorials and learning what I need as I go. It takes a little while to wrap your brain around it but in the long run it's easier than it sounds to learn the basics of.
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Apr 16, 2019 23:27
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armorer posted:Thanks, I'll pick up a roll from here to try out. I'll also pick up a roll of amazon basics. Atomic also has PETG, Mike (the owner) really takes pride in what he does, and really makes a good product. It's all made in house in Indiana, if that floats your benchy at all.
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Apr 16, 2019 23:40
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Atomic PETG is great, highly recommended. I haven't tried their PLA yet, because it's so much easier to print and Hatchbox has been plenty good enough so far.
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Apr 17, 2019 01:37
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I've gone through a couple rolls of PETG in the last couple weeks, no enclosure. It's making some strong parts that look decent but not great. Definitely need hotter and slower, especially the first layer and especially supports. Very sensitive to bed level for first layer adhesion. Also very prone to stringing/gooping as the nozzle picks up strings. I run the first layer really loving slow to keep it stuck. Couldn't get consistent results on glass/aquanet, so using fake buildtak which works great. I still haven't gotten rid of the strings successfully. Currently printing a Spyker Kat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPEa_3Q_8pQ
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Apr 17, 2019 03:44
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I have a Prusa i3 Mk3S. If I wanted to get a second, cheaper printer to gently caress around with, what should I look at? I'm assuming an ender3 but maybe there's something else
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Apr 17, 2019 05:02
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Sockser posted:I have a Prusa i3 Mk3S. CR10 imo
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Apr 17, 2019 05:07
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Sagebrush posted:I haven't done stress testing in fusion 360, but in SolidWorks the simulation module automatically scales your simulation results by some factor to make them visible (since a lot of the time you're talking about displacements of less than a millimeter). so the nylon part might be bending five times as much as the carbon fiber part, but the software is scaling the carbon fiber results up by a greater factor, and the visible maximum displacement ends up the same. That was it, now I see how much it will actually deform rather than an exaggerated version. I guess I get the point, but in this case I had another body that I need the strained body not to hit under load, so it was screwing with me.
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Apr 17, 2019 07:14
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:I've gone through a couple rolls of PETG in the last couple weeks, no enclosure. It's making some strong parts that look decent but not great. Definitely need hotter and slower, especially the first layer and especially supports. Very sensitive to bed level for first layer adhesion. Also very prone to stringing/gooping as the nozzle picks up strings. I run the first layer really loving slow to keep it stuck. Couldn't get consistent results on glass/aquanet, so using fake buildtak which works great. I still haven't gotten rid of the strings successfully. I need this next winter...about twice the size and then stick a pixhawk on it and it run autonomously.
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Apr 17, 2019 08:47
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mewse posted:CR10 imo Monoprice's version of this printer, for the warranty.
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Apr 17, 2019 08:54
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I need this next winter...about twice the size and then stick a pixhawk on it and it run autonomously. He sells STLs for one that is twice as large called the Kat 2X: https://youtu.be/BJs9hhIE_b8 I’m only printing this one for the practice, and so I can give it to the kiddo. The big one will be mine!
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Apr 17, 2019 12:18
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:He sells STLs for one that is twice as large called the Kat 2X: https://youtu.be/BJs9hhIE_b8
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Apr 17, 2019 12:35
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Monoprice's version of this printer, for the warranty. Am I crazy or is the MP version actually a clone of the CR10s? That looks like a hell of a sweet printer for the price, that might end up being my secondary. I'll get a mini Delta some other time, bring on the giant prints. e: since I'm still having trouble finding info about the differences between Melzi boards and can't source a 3.5 for less than a cool hundo anywhere I've found, would it be at all feasible to use this kinda kit to just refit my burnt out MP Maker Select v2? The comments seem to imply it's possible but I'm a big dumb moron sometimes so if there's not much documentation it'll probably be a headache. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019TNELNU double-e: wow, people really seem to hate Melzi boards overall, huh? Basically everything recent I'm finding is saying to just swap boards entirely. Rockman Reserve fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Apr 17, 2019 |
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Apr 17, 2019 15:57
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I'm thinking between the hardware cost and the value of time spend doing it (at least, the value of my time, which is now about $30/hour base pay) its less headache to get a new Monoprice machine. If you had an older V2, you will be happier with the current version anyway. Also, don't modify poo poo & RMA that thing the next time the Melzi shits the bed. And yeah, the MP10 is a clone with Monoprice's classic undocumented upgrades & shortcuts. The MP10 Mini looks like a great V2 replacement machine, for example. Just look at the features on it.
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Apr 17, 2019 18:16
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