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Snap-On owns Bahco so... Will check out those 90 tooth ratchets.
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Apr 16, 2019 08:10
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wallaka posted:They make their ratchet internals as well. I have the 90-something tooth Bahco 3/8" and 1/4" ratchets and they're great and inexpensive.
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Apr 16, 2019 14:19
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Random stupid question: I'm looking if it possible to integrate some tool batteries to power a device for work. Something to snap the batteries into, draw the power, snap out for recharge. It'd be turning a DC motor. Tool makers don't sell anything like this for obvious reasons. Guess we could cut apart a tool, but that would look pretty bad. Is there anyone out there that sells battery receivers? I found a random Milwaukee that looks pretty sweet, but only works with that one brand. https://neilparks.com/batterymount.html Right now I'm leaning towards putting a hex nut on a gearbox and driving it with an impact, which I like better for the simplicity, but getting a self contained system would be sweet.
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Apr 16, 2019 17:47
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Uthor posted:Random stupid question: I'm looking if it possible to integrate some tool batteries to power a device for work. Something to snap the batteries into, draw the power, snap out for recharge. It'd be turning a DC motor. M18 / M12 I use one of the M12s with a battery and some long cables as a junkyard power source, works great. I doubt there's much that integrates multiple battery types (ecosystems) because the market for that would presumably be pretty small - most people (through intentional action of the manufacturers) end up and stay in one ecosystem.
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Apr 16, 2019 17:59
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Uthor posted:Random stupid question: I'm looking if it possible to integrate some tool batteries to power a device for work. Something to snap the batteries into, draw the power, snap out for recharge. It'd be turning a DC motor. Check out camcorder batteries, you can get little plates that they snap into and give a DC output: https://www.adafruit.com/product/2089 You can find those Sony NP camera batteries (and chargers for them) all over Amazon for cheap--they're just lithium ion cells. edit: And if that's no good, look at RC cars and drones. They all use very high power small size lithium cells you can get in tons of sizes, etc. Some of them can provide ridiculous amounts of current (like 50+ amps instantaneously). mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Apr 16, 2019 |
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Apr 16, 2019 18:08
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Yeah, I'm going to need a lot more power than a camcorder battery or USB output. Looking to drive a motor in a rollover fixture in an industrial application. Think an engine stand holding 200-300 lbs. I'm not convinced battery power is the way to go (24V motors are a bit small), but something I need to rule out. Thanks for the tips. Sorry for being vague, but, work...
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Apr 16, 2019 18:48
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Depending on your voltage requirements, I think RC car batteries are the way you want to go. They are quick to swap, lots of charging options and can be done without proprietary stuff. https://www.amazon.com/Toy-RC-Car-Batteries-Chargers/b/ref=dp_bc_aui_C_4?ie=UTF8&node=345488011
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Apr 16, 2019 19:00
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Uthor posted:Yeah, I'm going to need a lot more power than a camcorder battery or USB output. Looking to drive a motor in a rollover fixture in an industrial application. Think an engine stand holding 200-300 lbs. I'm not convinced battery power is the way to go (24V motors are a bit small), but something I need to rule out. 24v winch motor on a worm drive and a couple of cheap car batteries in series would be my starting point.
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Apr 16, 2019 21:55
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I wouldn't be afraid to throw your employer's money at the problem too. The last thing you want is to be responsible when some rigged together battery solution shorts out or explodes...
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Apr 16, 2019 22:13
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The thing is, this is already an off-the-shelf piece of kit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDYZBiYMVHU
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Apr 16, 2019 22:35
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That's awesome!
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Apr 16, 2019 22:48
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mod sassinator posted:I wouldn't be afraid to throw your employer's money at the problem too. The last thing you want is to be responsible when some rigged together battery solution shorts out or explodes... Yeah, just trying to figure out what to throw the money at! (technically it'd be a customer's money, which we don't have approval for, yet, so keeping a budget to keep the quote reasonable is necessary)
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Apr 16, 2019 22:54
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I love me some RC batteries but I would be hesitant to use them in an environment where corporate liability can be A Thing. Adapting any power tool battery system, while a bit sketchy in itself, at least means the battery case itself is already quite tough, and a foolproof charging system exists. I would also recommend that you either pick a system where the low voltage protection is in the battery (do any of them do this?) or make sure it's accounted for in the design.
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Apr 17, 2019 03:03
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InitialDave posted:The thing is, this is already an off-the-shelf piece of kit: That basically what I want to do, expect that it'll be on a hoist. Gonna show my boss in the A.M.
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Apr 17, 2019 03:52
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Uthor posted:Yeah, just trying to figure out what to throw the money at! Consider using a “smart” drop‐in replacement for lead‐acid batteries. They cost a good chunk of money but they can put out a lot of current and they handle the intricacies that keep lithium ion batteries from erupting into flame or prematurely dying.
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Apr 17, 2019 04:45
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I can't stop mulling the Quick Jack. The people here who have one, is there any time you regretted getting one? I mean it's not like I have a real option, it's just the fear of going "meh". I loathe getting cars up on jack stands as I always have to use non-approved places, crawl around, have millimeters to spare, have the jack at an angle. Another huge bonus is that the Quick jack is approved for use on gravel/grass ("put some plywood under though"), which is a big no-no for jack stands for me. Yes I'm trying to sell this to myself big time I'm going to be poor.
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Apr 17, 2019 16:46
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Save your money for something that's going to make more of a difference in your life. Maybe a Miata?
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Apr 17, 2019 16:53
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Already got two cars to maintain (and when my brothers get cars they'll probably need it as well), and .... won't I need a quick jack to maintain a Miata. Also.. I don't like Miatas. At all.
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Apr 17, 2019 17:29
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MrOnBicycle posted:Also.. I don't like Miatas. At all.  j/K, your opinion is valid
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Apr 17, 2019 17:58
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MrOnBicycle posted:Also.. I don't like Miatas. At all.  Yeah, to each their own. I've never owned or dealt with one in any capacity. My "small, impractical car" itch is scratched in other ways
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Apr 17, 2019 18:30
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I wouldn't have expected any other response.  I think the main reason is that @ almost 6' 4" I'd look a right plonker in one and I really don't like convertibles.
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Apr 17, 2019 18:48
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Am 6'4" and would rather not have a convertible. Still loved my Miata.
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Apr 17, 2019 18:55
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If you need a battery socket for a particular ecosystem the neatest looking solution can often be an eBay non working charger. Especially if they sell a tiny/slow/portable version.
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Apr 17, 2019 19:30
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I have a quickjack. It's pretty great. Definitely a couple downsides, but all in all I quite like it. Any questions in particular?
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Apr 18, 2019 00:07
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slidebite posted:I have zero doubt Bahco ratchets are great, but I thought Williams (another snapon brand) made their ratchets and associated hardware, with the exception of torque tools which are CDI? I know Williams makes their screwdrivers. The info I got from garagejournal might be wrong about the ratchets but they feel like Snap-On.
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Apr 18, 2019 00:25
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Uthor posted:Yeah, I'm going to need a lot more power than a camcorder battery or USB output. Looking to drive a motor in a rollover fixture in an industrial application. Think an engine stand holding 200-300 lbs. I'm not convinced battery power is the way to go (24V motors are a bit small), but something I need to rule out. If you don't just go and get that badass Mechanics Mate stand and want to keep looking at power tool batteries, eBay is filthy with 3D printed battery adapters. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-...v8AAOSwXc9cVhCa As a random example.
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Apr 18, 2019 00:40
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slidebite posted:I have a quickjack. It's pretty great. Definitely a couple downsides, but all in all I quite like it. Any questions in particular? If you're cranking on something east-west, does it feel like the car rocks side to side? I'm looking at the high lift 7000lb ones, but i would still be worried about trying to put 150ft/lbs into something with 6000lbs hovering 3 feet in the air.
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Apr 18, 2019 00:41
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Can anyone recommend an electric oil fluid transfer pump? The oil my diff takes is like honey, doing it with a hand pump is physically painful...and super messy since the backpressure blows the tube off the pump.
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Apr 18, 2019 01:23
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FatCow posted:Can anyone recommend an electric oil fluid transfer pump? The oil my diff takes is like honey, doing it with a hand pump is physically painful...and super messy since the backpressure blows the tube off the pump. You can heat the diff up with a torch to get it out, or if the car can sit for a week, do what i did and let it siphon out.   It took a vacuum pump to get started and like a week to drain, but it got 40 year old fluid out. If you're not that patient, heat on the diff and a drill pump would probably get the job done for you. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-300-GPH-Drill-Pump-Kit-PUP63-HD/204667248 You might have to fill it with motor oil or something to get it primed, and might need a stiffer hose on the suction side, something like PEX would probably hold it's shape better than vinyl hose.
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Apr 18, 2019 01:38
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Huh. Never heard of a drill pump, looks useful. Thanks!
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Apr 18, 2019 02:25
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It's more a problem with getting it in than getting it out. I can just pull the drain plug when it's hot. However it take a 80w-250 oil and that is brutal to pump. I could throw the whole thing in a hot water bath I suppose, but I'd rather just have something I can pump cold with for the 'working on the car at midnight on the night before a race' nonsense.
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Apr 18, 2019 02:26
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throw it the engine bay for a while while you're driving. I can't think of a potential downside. The drill pump would probably still work for you, but if you don't like pumping it cold, a cordless drill probably won't either. Then again 80w250 shouldn't be any harder than 75w90. I know i had an older metal one that took quite a bit of abuse, i don't know how well a consumer grade plastic one would like pumping gear oil.
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Apr 18, 2019 02:45
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Powershift posted:If you're cranking on something east-west, does it feel like the car rocks side to side? The stability seems very good from all the quickjack ads, but I guess it's still prudent to ask. Lame ad video but still: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l64_lo1hOM8 another https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxb3P6EMdiQ slidebite posted:I have a quickjack. It's pretty great. Definitely a couple downsides, but all in all I quite like it. Any questions in particular? Mainly I'd like to ask about room to work. Anything that you didn't have room to do? How portable are they really? The likelihood of me ever getting a place where I can fit a proper lift is slim to none, but I will probably have a roughly the same size garage. Would be great to take the quick jack with me once in a while without dying from exhaustion. What's the biggest negative you've found through usage? In hindsight, was the convenience of not having to gently caress about with jacks and jackstands worth price? I mean my option at the moment is jackstands if I need access to suspension, and ramps if I don't. Pretty much never get to the full hight of the stands (420mm) because I'm not really comfortable with it as the car leans so much. The quickjack says it can get to 475mm on the big blocks. It's very hard to get the car up (never done it) on 4 jackstands because of the room in my garage. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 08:49 on Apr 18, 2019 |
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Apr 18, 2019 08:47
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For gear oil, I usually just use some garden hose routed up to somewhere convenient, put a funnel in it, and pour the oil down that. It takes time, but I just leave it to get on with it while occasionally topping up the funnel. Even if you have the hose looped down a bit to get it round and out past the structure of the car etc, while it'll leave a bit of oil in the lowest point, it does the job.
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Apr 18, 2019 11:31
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Powershift posted:If you're cranking on something east-west, does it feel like the car rocks side to side? MrOnBicycle posted:Mainly I'd like to ask about room to work. Anything that you didn't have room to do? Portability is probably my biggest issue with them. The ads show guys carrying them around easily like they are super portable, but each one probably weighs close to 100lbs. The good news is I don't need to move them much, I just leave them close to each other and park over top of them. But I don't think I'd want to be standing them up in the corner all the time. Sliding them around under the vehicle to set up is a little awkward to do, but managable. Still way, way easier and faster than setting up stands in 4 corners. Quality of build is good. I tried to find it, but I mentioned it earlier in a thread with some real questionable decisions in their build with hydraulics. They have a mix-mash of NPT and JIC fittings. NPT, on a do it yourself assembly with laypeople is a bit of a no-no as most people go nuts with thread tape which is not a good habit to get into with hydraulics. The hydraulic spaghetti hoses they used are crappy and stiff. Personally, if they used better hoses, made it out of aluminum and JIC or ORB fittings, it would be even better. As it is though, I'm still not disappointed with it.
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Apr 18, 2019 13:56
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slidebite posted:Awesome info. I have to confess that I haven't got a clue what NPT and JIC fittings are and how they affect stuff. 35kg (I checked ) is hefty, but as you say you can leave then close together if using regularly. . I'm thinking some hooks on each side of the wall to store when needed.Regarding the lift height I'm thinking that if need be (I mean how often does one pull and engine or gearbox), getting the car up with the wheels on a stack of wood/ramps and then use the SUV adapter or even put some wood under the Quick Jacks themselves to get extra lift should do the trick and still be as safe. Fiddly, but I recon the biggest help when pulling engines/gearboxes is the ability to move the car vertically. I couldn't get any of the jacks I've got as high anyway, and it's hell to raise the car up on 4 jack stands due to restricted space. Sounds like you are happy with it though and would go back to jack stands, so I'll give it some time while I brace my wallet (and GF) for the impact...
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Apr 18, 2019 15:07
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slidebite posted:
Honestly, most laypeople don't even know not to put thread tape on non-npt fittings. If they used more JIC fittings people would probably be trying to wrap a bunch of thread tape around gas line flare fittings and try to cram things together.
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Apr 18, 2019 15:58
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Cat Hatter posted:Honestly, most laypeople don't even know not to put thread tape on non-npt fittings. If they used more JIC fittings people would probably be trying to wrap a bunch of thread tape around gas line flare fittings and try to cram things together. Welcome to Home Depot.
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Apr 18, 2019 16:13
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C-Bangin' it 
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I put thread tape on my air tool fittings so they don't leak air and on my foam gun fitting so it doesn't leak water.  It works, but is it wrong?
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Apr 18, 2019 16:20
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If they are flare, then technically yes. Flare fittings are supposed to seal on the faces not the threads. If they leak replace the fittings or get conical seals.
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Apr 18, 2019 18:59
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