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The Lord Bude
May 23, 2007

ASK ME ABOUT MY SHITTY, BOUGIE INTERIOR DECORATING ADVICE

vyelkin posted:

I have to disagree here on the hammers, they absolutely aren't useless in the hands of a specialist. My 1-handed hammer user gets Crippling Strikes and Fearsome in addition to Hammer Mastery, which means that they can be doing morale checks even while destroying armour thanks to the guaranteed HP damage, and once the armour is gone and they're doing damage directly to health, they're dealing injuries even though their HP damage is lower than other weapons. More to the point, destroying armour is actually really useful against heavily armoured opponents like Orc Warriors (Hedge Knights and Knights it's also useful, but I'm less likely to use it there because I might want their armour). Orc Warriors have something like 300-400 armour durability before you even get into their 3-figure HP, which is multiple turns of people with other weapons just bashing against their armour before you're dealing any real damage, whereas a hammer bro can destroy it completely in two hits.

I'll grant you that the hammerbro is more specialized than most, but I'd say he's an essential part of my team. Especially if you can get one with high mdef and fatigue so he can hold his shield against multiple orc warriors at a time. What I normally do in a fight with a lot of orcs is keep him in the backline and once the orc warriors commit to one side or another, I'll deploy him on the flank where he normally ends up tanking two or three orc warriors on his own, and what typically happens is one by one he destroys their armour and then the greatsword bro next to him kills the armourless warrior, then they just swing around the line doing that to each one in turn. He's also great at getting them to flee, especially if he ends up on the opposite end of the line from the warlord so they aren't getting rallied by him shouting. And for other fights I just give him a polehammer instead and he acts as an excellent backliner.

I agree that daggers are useful, but they aren't very synergetic unless you train up a whole group of specialists in them (as an experiment I once planned to train an entire military company as dagger specialists but that was the one game where Hoggart killed everyone so that ended quickly), because they do no armour damage at all so the warrior or knight or hedge knight or even footman that the daggerbro is fighting has pristine armour which means if anyone who isn't using a dagger comes to help out, they find themelves bouncing off the armour instead of taking out the few remaining HP. In the past I've trained up a hybrid sword/dagger specialist since swords aren't good at dealing with armour and daggers are, but in my latest run I ended up not making one and haven't really missed him at all.

My previous company had shield bros that would take weapon masteries in both hammer and cleaver (they would use orc cleavers). My plan had been to switch between the two depending on what sort of enemy I was facing. After testing I came to the conclusion that the one handed hammer just wasn't as good as using the orc cleaver from the beginning. An orc cleaver will do more armor damage than any other regular weapon attack whilst also doing quite a bit of flesh damage and inflicting 10 bleed damage per turn which adds up a lot. The hammer will do more armor damage IF you use destroy armor (max 180 vs max 118), but then your guy is effectively doing gently caress all actual health damage for several turns.

Daggers are even better because puncture almost always hits on orcs, and you can attack 3 times per turn - that means 3 potential injury/morale drop checks in the turn. Getting a rout going is pretty good vs Orcs. Shield Bros have enough spare Perks that they can take 2 weapon masteries - I give my 2 middle line shield bros Cleaver and Dagger; the 2 flank shield bros take spear and sword. That way you don't need seperate dagger bros - you just poke away with those 2.

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Wizard Styles
Aug 6, 2014

level 15 disillusionist

The Lord Bude posted:

Your guys aren't ready to be using 2 handed weapons (polearms notwithstanding). A bro is ready for a 2hander when you can meet the following criteria:

- Has the battleforged perk
- has both armor and helmet with 200+ durability
- you have a greatsword or a 2handed hammer to give him. Don't waste time on lower tier 2handers.
Have to disagree with this, if you get good armor it can absolutely be worth it to use two-handers early on.
The Longsword is good although Split and Swing aren't as strong as they are later on because there are usually less enemies around. And the Mallet will just destroy a Brigand Raider's armor in one hit and probably give them a severe injury. You can also go for a Man Splitter if you find a Berserker Cave early and managed to find good enough archers to take them on.
Most enemies you fight early on don't do that much damage to armor, so ~200 body armor and a 140 durability helmet will hold for a while even without Battle Forged.

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

Hey all. I'm new to the game. Been trying out different strategies, but so far i've mostly settled on a wall of shield/spear and shield/axes backed up by polearms and ranged units.

I've been taking Colossus and the Dodge trait on pretty much everyone in the front line. Is this optimal?

dogstile
May 1, 2012

fucking clocks
how do they work?
Dodge is probably way better on your backline than your frontline. It works less as you get more and more tired and your front guys are going to get tired really, really quickly.

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

dogstile posted:

Dodge is probably way better on your backline than your frontline. It works less as you get more and more tired and your front guys are going to get tired really, really quickly.

Oh, I didn't realize fatigue modified initiative. Is there a good guide for how all the stats work?

dogstile
May 1, 2012

fucking clocks
how do they work?
There is a goon written one but its not on the OP. I'm sure he'll come by and repost it at some point today :v:

jokes
Dec 20, 2012

Uh... Kupo?

Sure hope so. I've been not giving a poo poo about initiative for so long and I have no idea if that's bad or good. In most games that have initiative, the value of going first in a system where everyone gets one turn per round means very little to me.

Like, you spend a couple rounds getting into position at the start of every battle anyways. Where's the value in it? And what's the difference between going first and just ignoring their first turn and pretending you went first?

But Not Tonight
May 22, 2006

I could show you around the sights.

https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=902880552

Credit to Hieronymous Alloy.

Hieronymous Alloy
Jan 30, 2009


Why! Why!! Why must you refuse to accept that Dr. Hieronymous Alloy's Genetically Enhanced Cream Corn Is Superior to the Leading Brand on the Market!?!




Morbid Hound

dogstile posted:

There is a goon written one but its not on the OP. I'm sure he'll come by and repost it at some point today :v:

Hay, I resemble that remark

It's a bit outdated but should still be workable.

Nordick
Sep 3, 2011

Yes.

dogstile posted:

There is a goon written one but its not on the OP. I'm sure he'll come by and repost it at some point today :v:

It is linked in the second post.

dogstile
May 1, 2012

fucking clocks
how do they work?

Nordick posted:

It is linked in the second post.

That's not the opening post! That's the second post! :v:

Fair point, must have skimmed over it

Nordick
Sep 3, 2011

Yes.
Well to be fair it doesn't exactly stand out. I'll fix that.

The Lord Bude
May 23, 2007

ASK ME ABOUT MY SHITTY, BOUGIE INTERIOR DECORATING ADVICE

jokes posted:

Sure hope so. I've been not giving a poo poo about initiative for so long and I have no idea if that's bad or good. In most games that have initiative, the value of going first in a system where everyone gets one turn per round means very little to me.

Like, you spend a couple rounds getting into position at the start of every battle anyways. Where's the value in it? And what's the difference between going first and just ignoring their first turn and pretending you went first?

Initiative is almost always a dump stat. It has precisely 3 uses:

1. Affecting the bonus of the dodge stat (which most people don’t use these days because since the changes in the last expansion, nimble is super good and more than adequate for protecting your back line in combination with decent health)

2. The use of the overwhelm skill (since it only works on enemies going later than you in the turn order) this is another perk that isn’t that great and you rarely have room for it, plus you have to waste skill points on initiative to make it work.

3. The damage bonus of the fencing sword when using its special attack. You need to jump through some pretty extravagant hoops to make a fencing sword build even remotely worth while and I don’t recommend it.

Also key newbie mistakes in my opinion are underestimating the value of resolve and stamina. You want the former to be around 50-60 for front liners and 40-50 for back liners.

Aim for >95 for your sergeant.

Stamina needs to be as high as possible, since it directly correlates to your ability to do damage. The exact minimum floor will depend on whether a bro wears light or heavy armour but I’d suggest that most bros will want at least 80 left over after you account for armour.

Hammerstein
May 6, 2005

YOU DON'T KNOW A DAMN THING ABOUT RACING !
I hope that the new northern doggos will rip goblins to shreds.

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

What's the strat for fighting goblins? My guys are heavily armored and just getting shot to pieces out here.

The Lord Bude
May 23, 2007

ASK ME ABOUT MY SHITTY, BOUGIE INTERIOR DECORATING ADVICE
It's amazing what having 4 archers with around 100 ranged attack can do for your company. I got ambushed in a swamp by like 3 different bandit groups converging on me (they seem it do it alot on this map, the dumb fucks...) my 12 men vs around 40 something bandits. Mix of raiders, marksmen, a couple of leaders and one cheeky hedge knight.

It was one of those surprise ambush fights where you start out in a random cluster in the middle of the map with enemies encircling you. As luck would have it, the map ended up being mostly water with almost no firm land.

Not one single bandit made it to within melee range of my guys.

The Lord Bude
May 23, 2007

ASK ME ABOUT MY SHITTY, BOUGIE INTERIOR DECORATING ADVICE

kidkissinger posted:

What's the strat for fighting goblins? My guys are heavily armored and just getting shot to pieces out here.

1. Deploy all your archers - I keep 4 in my company.

2. Make sure you only hire the very best archers. My worst archer had 93 ranged attack at level 11. I consider 90 the minimum cutoff point for an archer. I give them beserk, killing frenzy, crippling strikes and executioner. When your archers are that good you can use quick shot instead of aimed shot. Goblins don't have much health, you can often 1 shot them, so your archers should be taking out 2-3 of them each per round.

3. Don't try to pick off the archers first - target the goblins which you have the highest chance of hitting. goblin archers really don't do that much damage to a heavily armored bro with battleforged (or a lightly armored bro with nimble for that matter). Goblins have terrible morale and it's easy to get a rout going once you start butchering them en masse.

4. Assuming you do what I do and keep sets of both heater and kite shields in your inventory to swap between, gobbos are where you want the kites.

5. have your melee guys charge them aggressively. Don't waste time shieldwalling.

6. Some people will advocate giving your 2handers a shield and a 1h weapon for gobbo fights, or not taking your 2h bros if you have enough spare men; since gobbos don't take much damage to kill. I can't say I've ever bothered doing this; I feel that my guy in plate mail can shrug off a couple rounds of goblin arrows, and then once he closes on them, his aoe's wreak havoc. I'm also a huge fan of the warscythe.

golden bubble
Jun 3, 2011

yospos

A mediocre melee bro can always become an full tank shield bro. But a mediocre ranged bro has no place in the company, unless you consider sacrificial taunt-master to be a real position.

The Lord Bude
May 23, 2007

ASK ME ABOUT MY SHITTY, BOUGIE INTERIOR DECORATING ADVICE

golden bubble posted:

A mediocre melee bro can always become an full tank shield bro. But a mediocre ranged bro has no place in the company, unless you consider sacrificial taunt-master to be a real position.

I have slightly laxer requirements for a tank bro compared to a 2hander; but I still think there are sufficient people that meet those requirements that you don't need to hire any old random. I'm a firm believer in slowly expanding your company and only hiring the best.

The Dregs
Dec 29, 2005

MY TREEEEEEEE!
Should I level up the crap daytalers I get in the beginning, or fire them and fish for guys with stars where I want 'em?

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

The Dregs posted:

Should I level up the crap daytalers I get in the beginning, or fire them and fish for guys with stars where I want 'em?

Just give them shittier gear and hand-me-downs from your good bros and your overstaffing problem will take care of itself in fairly short order

The Dregs
Dec 29, 2005

MY TREEEEEEEE!

Clark Nova posted:

Just give them shittier gear and hand-me-downs from your good bros and your overstaffing problem will take care of itself in fairly short order

Yeah If I wasn't a filthy savescummer. But now I have a team of 9th level idiots with 62 melee

The Lord Bude
May 23, 2007

ASK ME ABOUT MY SHITTY, BOUGIE INTERIOR DECORATING ADVICE

The Dregs posted:

Should I level up the crap daytalers I get in the beginning, or fire them and fish for guys with stars where I want 'em?

My philosophy is to only hire guys that are good enough to be in the endgame company. Sometimes that means I don't have a full 12 men till the first crisis is underway. That being said, I do savescum my hiring - I think the system as it presently exists is too punishing; so I save, hire everyone in the town to check their stats, then reload and hire whomever I want.

You can quite easily get a good daytaler though sometimes. But someone with 62 melee at level 9 should never have been hired in the first place. You're just wasting XP on them. Remember that one of the key metrics that the game factors into its difficulty scaling is how many guys you have. By slowly hiring only the best, you can level up the ones you have more quickly and maintain a more graceful difficulty curve.

The Lord Bude fucked around with this message at 16:32 on Apr 16, 2019

dogstile
May 1, 2012

fucking clocks
how do they work?
I actually give my 2h guys quickhands. It's not hugely optimal but a kiteshield while they advance and then quickly swapping to the sword and swiping when they get into melee range is cool. Also in my head it's funny as hell.

The Lord Bude
May 23, 2007

ASK ME ABOUT MY SHITTY, BOUGIE INTERIOR DECORATING ADVICE

dogstile posted:

I actually give my 2h guys quickhands. It's not hugely optimal but a kiteshield while they advance and then quickly swapping to the sword and swiping when they get into melee range is cool. Also in my head it's funny as hell.

Not only is it not optimal from a perk perspective but you’re also wasting a huge amount of fatigue carrying a shield in your pack. It’s just not needed, arrows barely dent plate.

TheAnomaly
Feb 20, 2003

The Lord Bude posted:

1. Deploy all your archers - I keep 4 in my company.

2. Make sure you only hire the very best archers. My worst archer had 93 ranged attack at level 11. I consider 90 the minimum cutoff point for an archer. I give them beserk, killing frenzy, crippling strikes and executioner. When your archers are that good you can use quick shot instead of aimed shot. Goblins don't have much health, you can often 1 shot them, so your archers should be taking out 2-3 of them each per round.

3. Don't try to pick off the archers first - target the goblins which you have the highest chance of hitting. goblin archers really don't do that much damage to a heavily armored bro with battleforged (or a lightly armored bro with nimble for that matter). Goblins have terrible morale and it's easy to get a rout going once you start butchering them en masse.

4. Assuming you do what I do and keep sets of both heater and kite shields in your inventory to swap between, gobbos are where you want the kites.

5. have your melee guys charge them aggressively. Don't waste time shieldwalling.

6. Some people will advocate giving your 2handers a shield and a 1h weapon for gobbo fights, or not taking your 2h bros if you have enough spare men; since gobbos don't take much damage to kill. I can't say I've ever bothered doing this; I feel that my guy in plate mail can shrug off a couple rounds of goblin arrows, and then once he closes on them, his aoe's wreak havoc. I'm also a huge fan of the warscythe.

you do realize you just gave him advice on how to beat goblins with level 9+ bros, right? Goblins should be appearing well before most of your bro's are 7-8.

The nighttime is the right time to kill goblins early. It lowers Ranged Accuracy, which keeps their archers from just pegging you to death. Dogs are also your friends, they're fast and mean and lock goblins in place, and armored wardogs are often capable of killing a goblin archer by themselves.

When you first start fighting goblins you should have a numerical advantage, use it. Chase them down, give everyone who isn't an archer a shield, rotate injured people to keep them behind uninjured people. Goblins don't do a ton of damage at early stages, the poison just makes them hard to fight.

if it's wolf-riders they shouldn't have any archers, treat them kind of like smarter dire wolves. Don't deploy the dogs except as decoys, because they'll just give the wolves/gobbos morale. You do have to make sure they can't flank your backline, because they'll try, but otherwise they aren't too bad if you aren't ambushed.

Mid game it will get trickier, you'll see wolf riders/archers together which is a really lovely combination, overseers with the headshot murder xbow, and/or shamans. With wolfrider/archer combo's you should use your archers to take out theres - you should have high enough Ranged attack to hit on quick shot, so use it and pepper the archers with arrows. Try to surround your archers with heavier armor/shielded bros because the wolf riders will flank you. Focus down the wolves in melee before going after the riders (you might crit a rider to death, not much you can do about that) because the wolves are just death to armor and give a lot of speed/mobility. The also have better morale than the goblins - drop a couple wolves and the goblins morale will tank, making it harder for them to hit anything.

Late game do the above.

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!
Don't goblin archers have night vision?

Goatse James Bond
Mar 28, 2010

If you see me posting please remind me that I have Charlie Work in the reports forum to do instead

The Lord Bude posted:


Also key newbie mistakes in my opinion are underestimating the value of resolve and stamina. You want the former to be around 50-60 for front liners and 40-50 for back liners.

Aim for >95 for your sergeant.

Stamina needs to be as high as possible, since it directly correlates to your ability to do damage. The exact minimum floor will depend on whether a bro wears light or heavy armour but I’d suggest that most bros will want at least 80 left over after you account for armour.

Resolve is now more important and much more obviously important, thanks to Beastsnexploration.

The Dregs
Dec 29, 2005

MY TREEEEEEEE!

The Lord Bude posted:

That being said, I do savescum my hiring - I think the system as it presently exists is too punishing; so I save, hire everyone in the town to check their stats, then reload and hire whomever I want.


That's a good way to do it. They dont change each time you reload?

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Nah, the recruits are set per seed, so if you're reusing a seed, you could know that a guy with good stats is in town x on day y

The Lord Bude
May 23, 2007

ASK ME ABOUT MY SHITTY, BOUGIE INTERIOR DECORATING ADVICE

TheAnomaly posted:

you do realize you just gave him advice on how to beat goblins with level 9+ bros, right? Goblins should be appearing well before most of your bro's are 7-8.

The nighttime is the right time to kill goblins early. It lowers Ranged Accuracy, which keeps their archers from just pegging you to death. Dogs are also your friends, they're fast and mean and lock goblins in place, and armored wardogs are often capable of killing a goblin archer by themselves.

When you first start fighting goblins you should have a numerical advantage, use it. Chase them down, give everyone who isn't an archer a shield, rotate injured people to keep them behind uninjured people. Goblins don't do a ton of damage at early stages, the poison just makes them hard to fight.

if it's wolf-riders they shouldn't have any archers, treat them kind of like smarter dire wolves. Don't deploy the dogs except as decoys, because they'll just give the wolves/gobbos morale. You do have to make sure they can't flank your backline, because they'll try, but otherwise they aren't too bad if you aren't ambushed.

Mid game it will get trickier, you'll see wolf riders/archers together which is a really lovely combination, overseers with the headshot murder xbow, and/or shamans. With wolfrider/archer combo's you should use your archers to take out theres - you should have high enough Ranged attack to hit on quick shot, so use it and pepper the archers with arrows. Try to surround your archers with heavier armor/shielded bros because the wolf riders will flank you. Focus down the wolves in melee before going after the riders (you might crit a rider to death, not much you can do about that) because the wolves are just death to armor and give a lot of speed/mobility. The also have better morale than the goblins - drop a couple wolves and the goblins morale will tank, making it harder for them to hit anything.

Late game do the above.

It isn't that hard to avoid goblins until you're properly equipped to deal with them. It's not like bandits where they're everywhere (greenskin crisis notwithstanding). Going after anything other than pretty small groups of them (straight wolfriders is probably easiest) early game is dumb. You should have a party of level 9+ bros by the time the first crisis comes around, not that I would advocate picking greenskins for the first one. I use student though, and I grow my company slowly, which eases the difficulty scaling and lets my guys level faster.

Goblins and orcs each tend to have their own separate 'territory' on the map and I stay well away from goblin country until I'm ready to deal with them. Learning to pick your battles is a key skill of the game. You need to develop an idea of what you can handle at a given level. Orcs are much easier until later on when you start getting big groups of warriors and warleaders. Even an early-midgame company can kill orc young and the occasional berserker; and it's pretty profitable to do so, since the weapons sell for a fair bit. Plus I like to give my guys orc cleavers.

The Lord Bude
May 23, 2007

ASK ME ABOUT MY SHITTY, BOUGIE INTERIOR DECORATING ADVICE

The Dregs posted:

That's a good way to do it. They dont change each time you reload?

They don't change as long as you go into the town and open the recruit screen before you save. If you save before you go into the town, they can be different.

Clark Nova posted:

Nah, the recruits are set per seed, so if you're reusing a seed, you could know that a guy with good stats is in town x on day y

This isn't true. If you start a game, and travel to the first few villages around your starting town, then start a new game with the same seed the guys will be different. I tend to restart my games if the first 2-3 towns don't have enough decent guys to satisfy the hire 3 requirement of the hoggarth quest.

GreyjoyBastard posted:

Resolve is now more important and much more obviously important, thanks to Beastsnexploration.

Resolve has always been important; but other than hexen fights, which you can mostly ignore, I don't think it's become that much more important. My first couple of campaigns since the expansion came out I feel I overdid it, and I've gradually scaled back to the same level of resolve I was using before (although possibly I've always kept it high - like I said I aim for 50 for back line and 50-60 for front line. The expansion also added a bunch of resolve boosting items, so it's easier to patch it up. I stopped taking fortified mind on my tanks (other than the spearman at each end of the line, since they get surrounded more easily and need higher resolve - they sit at 60-70 after fortified mind, the rest of my front line is around the 55 mark)

I don't find myself ever having resolve problems. My sergeant has fantastic resolve - around 135 at level 12 with the sash - but he ended up with only 72 melee attack because he rolled a 1 for most of his level ups; so I pretty much just keep him on the bench and only bring him out when fighting geists, hexen, and ancient dead/schrats since I obviously bench my archers for those fights.

The Lord Bude
May 23, 2007

ASK ME ABOUT MY SHITTY, BOUGIE INTERIOR DECORATING ADVICE
Just fought a group of 11 Unholds (the grey ones). Never seen that many of them in one group before. Giving my tanks Indomitable really paid off - the two them pretty much held the unholds in place, taking very little damage, and allowing my 2handers to aoe away. 4 temporary injuries between 3 of my men. One of my nimble polearmsmen got heavily battered - ended up at only 2hp - but nobody else dropped below 2/3 health.

Voyager I
Jun 29, 2012

This is how your posting feels.
🐥🐥🐥🐥🐥

The Lord Bude posted:

It isn't that hard to avoid goblins until you're properly equipped to deal with them. It's not like bandits where they're everywhere (greenskin crisis notwithstanding). Going after anything other than pretty small groups of them (straight wolfriders is probably easiest) early game is dumb. You should have a party of level 9+ bros by the time the first crisis comes around, not that I would advocate picking greenskins for the first one. I use student though, and I grow my company slowly, which eases the difficulty scaling and lets my guys level faster.

Goblins and orcs each tend to have their own separate 'territory' on the map and I stay well away from goblin country until I'm ready to deal with them. Learning to pick your battles is a key skill of the game. You need to develop an idea of what you can handle at a given level. Orcs are much easier until later on when you start getting big groups of warriors and warleaders. Even an early-midgame company can kill orc young and the occasional berserker; and it's pretty profitable to do so, since the weapons sell for a fair bit. Plus I like to give my guys orc cleavers.

"Don't fight this midgame opponent until after the first crisis" is still pretty lopsided advice, and you skipped probably the most important tip for dealing with archers early on, which TheAnomaly mentioned - fight them at night so their Archers don't do anything.

The Lord Bude
May 23, 2007

ASK ME ABOUT MY SHITTY, BOUGIE INTERIOR DECORATING ADVICE
I tend to emphasise my archers pretty heavily, so most of the time even in mid game I’d rather have my archers at full strength than nerf theirs; but ymmv in that regard. But yes, fighting at night is an option for dealing with archer heavy opponents early.

That being said I still think the best option is to ignore goblins until you hit that day 60-70 mark where most of your company is around the level 9-10 point. It’s important to efficiently build your resources, and I think that’s best done by targeting smaller groups of orcs; but even more so undead locations (zombies et al; less so ancient dead)

Undead lairs tend to have good treasures to build your finances.

Nordick
Sep 3, 2011

Yes.
DLC releases in three weeks :toot:

http://battlebrothersgame.com/release-date-announcement-2/

Price is an exceedingly reasonable 9 bux

The Dipshit
Dec 21, 2005

by FactsAreUseless
The fact that a dog is the best tactic for fighting nightmare monsters makes me love this game. My only regret is not learning this until visiting this thread.

Best friends indeed.

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

Is summoning nightmares the only thing asps do?

I honestly didn't have any trouble dealing with them, it was just really time consuming and I had to keep a very tight formation.

The Lord Bude
May 23, 2007

ASK ME ABOUT MY SHITTY, BOUGIE INTERIOR DECORATING ADVICE
Yes. They just stand there and summon them every turn.

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Chakan
Mar 30, 2011

kidkissinger posted:

Is summoning nightmares the only thing asps do?

I honestly didn't have any trouble dealing with them, it was just really time consuming and I had to keep a very tight formation.

Fighting 4 or less isn’t terrible, but I had to fight 6 once and that took forever and almost killed like 3 of my guys. I don’t know how you kill more than that without pre-planned dogs and such.

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