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These were architectural in my case, and from my limited understanding of shingles, you can get nicer architectural with a bunch of features that may not do anything, or regular architectural. Weather pending in all cases of course. This things haven’t existed for 60 years so who knows if they’d actually last that long.
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Apr 19, 2019 03:04
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I'm used to southern California terracotta shingles which apparently last forever, I never saw anyone replacing their roofs growing up in Orange county.
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Apr 19, 2019 06:25
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Fallom posted:Colorado gets a lot of hailstorms but people spread "replace your roof every 4 years" as a rule of thumb instead of the far more sensible "get it inspected if the hail was the size of baseballs." My parents have got a tile roof and it's still fine after 40 years and will probably make it longer than the house, sheet metal roofs are generally expected to make it 50-70 years as well. Barring accidents anyway.
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Apr 19, 2019 06:29
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Metal roof good, asphalt shingles loving terrible why does it even still exist
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Apr 19, 2019 07:29
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We put asphalt shingles on these barrel saunas we manufacture at the company I work at. They will last the lifetime of the product (20-30 years). But yeah I can't fahtom putting it on a house, like a real house.
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Apr 19, 2019 07:35
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Do other places apart from America use shingles. Are they the imperial measurement system of roofing?
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Apr 19, 2019 07:43
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Has anyone used those composite decking boards cut into shingle-sized bits? Sounds like it might last a little longer.
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Apr 19, 2019 08:58
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TheMightyHandful posted:Do other places apart from America use shingles. Are they the imperial measurement system of roofing? We use them in the UK. On sheds. Don’t think I’ve ever seen them on a house, just slate or tiles.
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Apr 19, 2019 09:12
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Shingles def. aren't a thing in Denmark, to the extent that I believe we don't even have a word for them.
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Apr 19, 2019 09:39
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Tjärpapp in swedish, or takpapp. It's mainly used on smaller structures, like sheds, gazebos, outdoor saunas like I mentioned. But it has been found on houses in sweden, believe it was more popular in the past. Particularly on flatroofed buildings.
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Apr 19, 2019 10:07
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Yes tagpap is a thing but it's not used as tiles, I only see it sold in rolls.
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Apr 19, 2019 10:38
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Shingles aren’t a thing in Australia, it’s tiles or corrugated iron.
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Apr 19, 2019 10:38
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nielsm posted:Yes tagpap is a thing but it's not used as tiles, I only see it sold in rolls. I don't know about denmark but here it's sold in rolls too, but not only rolls. The stuff we use comes pre-cut and is fitted like shingles but it's really the same stuff. Looks like this:  And here's some american stuff:  [edit: clarification] His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 12:13 on Apr 19, 2019 |
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Apr 19, 2019 11:56
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peanut posted:Metal roof good, asphalt shingles loving terrible why does it even still exist Cheap, easy to install, pretty foolproof, and last longer than most people own their house. A metal roof has its downsides too. I mean, you're looking at probably double the install cost, and most people won't be around (either dead or new house) to care about the 40+ year life. There's been issues with the fastener systems used for metal roofs degrading and allowing leaks, so it's not as easy as just going metal and you're good for 50 years.
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Apr 19, 2019 13:23
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SetPhazers2Funk posted:What kind of gold plated shingles are we talking about here? 60 years sounds insanely old for a shingle roof. 20-30 for standard shingles is my general understanding with a bit longer if you get nicer ones. This is for temperate climates without goofy weather that eats up shingles.
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Apr 19, 2019 13:28
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How well do metal roofs or slate shingles etc hold up to heavy hail? I assumed that's why asphalt shingles are used here in the plains.
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Apr 19, 2019 13:40
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Enos Cabell posted:How well do metal roofs or slate shingles etc hold up to heavy hail? I assumed that's why asphalt shingles are used here in the plains. Metal is fine for the most part, but gets ugly (dents). Slate gets destroyed. It's almost like there are different products for different needs.
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Apr 19, 2019 15:39
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Motronic posted:Metal is fine for the most part, but gets ugly (dents). Slate gets destroyed. I see slate a lot up here in New England on old houses. It is for sure a "set it and forget it" roof, unless something breaks a slate tile. We looked at a couple of houses with slate roofs but it turns out there's one guy in our area who does slate and he's old and he's "colorful" according to the Realtor we spoke to. So we passed on slate.
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Apr 19, 2019 16:03
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My mom just had to remove and replace the slate roof on her / her parents house. The slate was original from when the house was built... In 1914. My grandfather paid a bunch of local Amish to pull off all the slate and put a tin roof on. They gave him back a big chunk of what he paid because they finished it a day ahead of schedule. 
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Apr 19, 2019 19:53
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I feel like we should be close to “forever” roofing materials soon. Something engineered that will never rot, crack, or fade.
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Apr 19, 2019 19:58
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Jealous Cow posted:I feel like we should be close to “forever” roofing materials soon. Something engineered that will never rot, crack, or fade. And they should generate solar electricity.
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Apr 19, 2019 20:28
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eddiewalker posted:And they should generate solar electricity. And impact resistant.
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Apr 19, 2019 21:36
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Jealous Cow posted:I feel like we should be close to “forever” roofing materials soon. Something engineered that will never rot, crack, or fade. You can go out and buy one right now if you want, in fact! ... How much were you looking to pay, again?
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Apr 19, 2019 22:56
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My deck on my house is now 8 years old. The previous owners did a poo poo job of keeping it in good shape, as the stain/paint was peeling when we moved in. The bones are good, but the top needs refinishing which we're going to do this summer. That said, the deck has a very tightly-spaced skirt of wood boards all around it. I've heard that doing this ends up with an insanely hot under-deck situation in the summer and that kind of heat will gently caress up a deck stain/paint no matter what you do. Is that true? If so, I'm thinking of tearing some of those boards off in places, maybe 4 foot sections, and replacing it with lattice so I can get some airflow under there. I don't want to spend a whole weekend refinishing the deck if it's going to go to poo poo after a year or so again. VERTiG0 fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Apr 19, 2019 |
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Apr 19, 2019 23:36
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Hubis posted:My mom just had to remove and replace the slate roof on her / her parents house. The slate was original from when the house was built... In 1914.  feel-good story to remind us that the world still has competent, honest people
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Apr 20, 2019 00:04
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Hubis posted:You can go out and buy one right now if you want, in fact! Well a normal asphalt roof on my house would be about $6k total, so... $20k? Solar roof would be $80k
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Apr 20, 2019 00:15
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Yeah if I’m gonna spend over 10k on something it’s gonna be a full room reno or new windows, not the fuckin roof.
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Apr 20, 2019 01:06
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I want to rip the whole deck off and do an insulated roof.
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Apr 20, 2019 01:32
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peanut posted:Metal roof good, asphalt shingles loving terrible why does it even still exist Because they're the cheapest option when you're looking at the price tag, and most people don't care if the new roof only lasts 20 years because they probably won't be around to see that. I personally wish everyone would agree to stop using asphalt but people are stupid and bad
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Apr 20, 2019 05:17
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Yeah if I’m gonna spend over 10k on something it’s gonna be a full room reno or new windows, not the fuckin roof. What if you need both? 
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Apr 20, 2019 05:21
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VERTiG0 posted:That said, the deck has a very tightly-spaced skirt of wood boards all around it. I've heard that doing this ends up with an insanely hot under-deck situation in the summer and that kind of heat will gently caress up a deck stain/paint no matter what you do. Is that true? If so, I'm thinking of tearing some of those boards off in places, maybe 4 foot sections, and replacing it with lattice so I can get some airflow under there. I don't want to spend a whole weekend refinishing the deck if it's going to go to poo poo after a year or so again. I don't know much about decks but that sounds right to me. Keeping good airflow around wood is a good idea whether you're talking about heat or moisture.
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Apr 20, 2019 10:20
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So this might be more the home security thread but I have a question about resetting the alarm code for our panel. We have some sort of Honeywell panel in the place we are renting and the rental company has no clue what the code is. This wouldn’t be a problem because we don’t care about the security stuff but it’s tied to our fire alarms and currently when I get too vigorous in the kitchen it sets them off. Is there some sort of way to reset the panel code? E: I should also say there’s l active subscription it’s just kinda sitting there for tenants to use if they want, which we don’t. It’s just the only way to turn off the smoke alarm without unplugging them all KKKLIP ART fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Apr 20, 2019 |
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Apr 20, 2019 21:19
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KKKLIP ART posted:So this might be more the home security thread but I have a question about resetting the alarm code for our panel. We have some sort of Honeywell panel in the place we are renting and the rental company has no clue what the code is. This wouldn’t be a problem because we don’t care about the security stuff but it’s tied to our fire alarms and currently when I get too vigorous in the kitchen it sets them off. Is there some sort of way to reset the panel code? Depends on the exact device; at a previous place I wanted to reset the code and eventually dug up a manual online for it which explained how. It's likely unique to the brand and/or model.
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Apr 21, 2019 00:31
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Jaded Burnout posted:Depends on the exact device; at a previous place I wanted to reset the code and eventually dug up a manual online for it which explained how. It's likely unique to the brand and/or model. OK, thats good to know that it can at least be done. I'll have to dig through the panel and find the main control box to see if I can find any model information.
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Apr 21, 2019 00:33
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KKKLIP ART posted:OK, thats good to know that it can at least be done. I'll have to dig through the panel and find the main control box to see if I can find any model information. Be careful when you find the main box. I was pottering around the place just after moving in, about as relaxed as I'd been in a long while, found this grey metal box with "live and neutral disconnected inside" written on it, and popped it open. a) it was the main box for the alarm system b) it had a tamper switch in it that sets off the alarm if that box is opened with the power on c) live and neutral was *not* disconnected inside d) the siren was mounted right in front of me at face height soooo, be careful how much tampering you do while looking for model numbers
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Apr 21, 2019 01:38
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Jaded Burnout posted:Be careful when you find the main box. I was pottering around the place just after moving in, about as relaxed as I'd been in a long while, found this grey metal box with "live and neutral disconnected inside" written on it, and popped it open. Also good information. I’d hate to accidentally trip it and have literally no way to turn it off. Makes sense because they want it to go off of a thief or criminal or whatever tries to cut power.
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Apr 21, 2019 02:40
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Gutter guards..... Worth it? Which ones?
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Apr 23, 2019 04:32
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I opened my garage to find a line of water splashes right down the middle. Immediately I was furious and about to call the contractors who did my roof panelling to come and check for leaks, until I realised that it's been baking hot over the last few days. So, I gather it's condensation rather than a leak - after opening the garage door, windows, etc. it dried up - but some black mould had appeared and I would really rather not have to leave the garage open for 2-3 hours per day to mitigate against this. Ambient humidity over the last few days is around the 75% mark. The garage is a concrete block construction, painted on the inside, with a wooden roof that is roofing felt over insulation board over a skin of plasterboard. There are two windows, one functional, and one wall is a roller shutter with a normal door adjacent. The floor is raised up from the outside area by a few inches and coated in waterproof epoxy (I had this done last autumn). I use the area primarily as a gym and have done over the winter months, and so with the re-poured floor I can imagine there was some latent moisture. It would seem the most obvious option is to fit a humidity-controlled ventilation fan? I have one area of the wall which is a single skin of plywood underneath the apex of the roof at one end, but it is opposite where the moisture was concentrated which would seem the easiest, but would allow a massive draft in the (mostly) cold periods. The opposite side is concrete blocks approx 6" thick but with lots of clearance. Any thoughts or suggestions?
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Apr 23, 2019 08:35
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Southern Heel posted:Ambient humidity over the last few days is around the 75% mark. Inside or outside the garage? Southern Heel posted:It would seem the most obvious option is to fit a humidity-controlled ventilation fan? Depends. I know this sounds stupidly obvious but ventilation would work by moving damp air from inside the garage and replacing it with dry air from outside, but if the air *outside* the garage is 75%RH then you're going to be pulling in damp air and not getting anywhere. This works well in bathrooms because the water is coming from the bath/shower so it makes sense to pump the air outside and pull drier air from the rest of the house. You need to figure out where the water in the air is coming from and make it go away. If the outside is drier then ventilate, if not you'll need a dehumidifier to grab the water from the air and pump it outside rather than moving air around. Also bear in mind that the RH in %RH stands for "relative humidity", because it's relative to how warm the air is, as that moves the dew point. So you can avoid condensation by either having less water in the air or by warming it up. (it'll probably stop in the summer) Southern Heel posted:I have one area of the wall which is a single skin of plywood underneath the apex of the roof at one end, but it is opposite where the moisture was concentrated which would seem the easiest, but would allow a massive draft in the (mostly) cold periods. The opposite side is concrete blocks approx 6" thick but with lots of clearance. You can get fans which seal when not active. Southern Heel posted:The opposite side is concrete blocks approx 6" thick but with lots of clearance. Dense block or lightweight? Dense block can be a real poo poo to core out, it took my gas plumber an hour to core drill through two skins. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 13:34 on Apr 23, 2019 |
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Apr 23, 2019 13:27
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I have a new (to me) home and I don't know what I am doing with my lawn. Last time I owned a place with a lawn was in the southern tip of Louisiana so it was basically just mow constantly and everything grows like bananas and no need to ever water anything. New place is in Rhode Island. The lawn seems like it was well kept up before but I have a couple of concerning spots and I'm not sure what the best way to treat them are. Any tips? I've mowed the lawn just once 2 weeks prior to these photos at the highest setting on the mower, mostly to just shred the remaining leaves. Leaf and grass clippings were just mulched back into the ground and not bagged. I intend to continue doing that unless convinced otherwise. Anyway, 1st photo has the worrisome bare spots, 2nd photo represents the rest of the lawn and nice grass cover otherwise. Any advice on how to get those more bare spots looking like the 2nd photo? They get a bit more sun on the 1st side, both photos encompass much of the septic leach field, so there's not a bias there.  
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Apr 23, 2019 13:33
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